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360 drive change.

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  • 20-11-2013 8:25pm
    #1
    0rt
    Registered Users Posts: 489 ✭✭


    howdy all, having problems with a drive sticking in my 360.. ive a couple of old ones lying up here with rrod, but none have the same drive.

    I was thinking of desoldering the board and putting it into a new drive, but im guessing i would need the exact same drive type?

    Anyways, thanks in advance.


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    #2
    0rt
    Registered Users Posts: 489 ✭✭0rt


    ok ive figured out you do need to have the same drive..
    http://hardandsoftgaming.wordpress.com/2011/03/12/replacing-a-faulty-xbox-360-dvd-drive-firmware-flash-or-circuit-board-transplant/

    but what ive learned is when i take my drive out of its metal housing.. the drive housing, not the xbox housing..
    it works again?!

    put it back into the metal case, it wont work..

    anyone else ever seen this?

    Its the philips lite drive, ive also got the benq and the hitachi..
    the benq is the same housing, so im going to swap it out and see if its any better.

    Edit..
    Ive come to the conclusion that its the magnet in the casing thats too strong! if i have a disk inside it will open, but spins wildly inside as if its not biting..

    So far if i want to play a game, i have the whole xbox opened up, the dvd drive is opened, i just pop a game in and put the magnet on top of the disk and it fires away without problems.... ill have to get a new drive and solder over the firmware board.


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    #3
    0rt
    Registered Users Posts: 489 ✭✭0rt


    So.. i took the casing off the dvd drive.. took the magnet from an old dvd drive, i decided the easiest way to do this is the magnet sits on the game while i hit the eject button drawing the game and magnet inside...

    1470071_10153494928585057_1761771816_n.jpg

    there was a problem with this, altho it fit, the magnet was too strong and stuck to the faraday tray on the topside of the console shell.
    so i removed it for now.

    1441482_10153494928860057_644239975_n.jpg

    the tray now closes with the magnet in place.. put it all back together and we are laughing..

    1470332_10153494928935057_2135179296_n.jpg

    have to leave a game inside it or the magnet will get stuck and ive to take it all apart again.

    What ive figured is the drawer motor is wearing out, but the magnet hasnt.. and with that the magnet is winning the ould tug of war.

    Time for a new drive me thinks.

    If anyone has a philips lite-on drive that they want to get rid of.. let me know :)

    Hope this helps others in future!


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    #4
    TouchingVirus
    Registered Users Posts: 8,584 ✭✭✭TouchingVirus


    New drive would do the job much better than all that messing. I may have one, I'll take a look and put it in the for sale thread if I do


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    #5
    0rt
    Registered Users Posts: 489 ✭✭0rt


    its doing the job for now, but i would much rather a new drive :D


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    #6
    0rt
    Registered Users Posts: 489 ✭✭0rt


    so, just to be sure, i just need to get a replacement philips lite on drive, and then i can do the firmware any way i want e.g. flash, solder etc.. there isnt any models of drive that i need to pay attention to is there?


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    #7
    TouchingVirus
    Registered Users Posts: 8,584 ✭✭✭TouchingVirus


    Since it's the drive mechanics that's messed up you desolder your board from your current drive, get a replacement Philips/LiteOn drive and solder your board into it. No firmware flashing is required, just a 5 wire desolder and re-solder.


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    #8
    0rt
    Registered Users Posts: 489 ✭✭0rt


    thanks for the reply, im aware of the solder and resolder, but im just wondering is there different models under the philips lite on.. or is it any of them once they are philips lite on?

    Also, i cant find the for sale section here you were saying you might put the drive up on if you find one.


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    #9
    TouchingVirus
    Registered Users Posts: 8,584 ✭✭✭TouchingVirus


    Yeah, it's a trading/swapping thread only, my mistake. I'll post the drive for sale on Adverts if I find it since it's permitted to sell drives that haven't been flashed.

    The only difference between all the LiteOn drives is the firmware, so since you're keeping your own PCB you don't need to worry about it.


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    #10
    0rt
    Registered Users Posts: 489 ✭✭0rt


    ahh ok adverts..
    Great, will you say here when its up? then its open to anyone to make offers.

    Thanks again.


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    #11
    TouchingVirus
    Registered Users Posts: 8,584 ✭✭✭TouchingVirus


    Ah I might just PM you either. I'll take a look for it over the weekend, pretty sure I have one :) If I do then it's yours


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    #12
    0rt
    Registered Users Posts: 489 ✭✭0rt


    your a gent!


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    #13
    smliv
    Registered Users Posts: 63 ✭✭smliv


    just a suggestion have you tried swapping the little black rubber ring in the drive as these do wear a bit and strech so it loses the grip it needs to turn the cogs and open the draw have had to replace this in a few drives and all was well again if you open the draw while the drive is out of its housing you will see the little rubber band im talking about do a goggle of xbox drive rubber band it will explain better


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    #14
    0rt
    Registered Users Posts: 489 ✭✭0rt


    ill look into it thanks :)


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