STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

momec · 05-10-2013 09:45PM

BazCream wrote: »

Hi Guys,

I really need some help & advice on this. I purchased a Stanley Reginald Boiler stove in April and had it installed by my builder. I lit a few starter fires back in April but nothing hectic only a small amount of timber & briquttes. It then remained idle for the summer until Monday night. I bought a trailer load of very dry black turf and had some well seasoned timber about 18mths old. So I lit a decent size fire with some starter brickettes, timber and turf and after about 2 hrs I started hearing this hissing / spitting noise. Basically where the stove meets the flu there was this boiling brown sticky fluid spitting out all over the stove and stone work of the fire place. My only option was to try cover the area with an old towel and let the fire die down. I was left with a really bad brunt smell in the sitting room and this dried sticky fluid all over the enamel of the stove and a new sandstone fireplace.
I phoned my builder and he said you cant 100% airtight a stove and that it possibly might be the turf!. Anyone who has looked at this turf said it is very dry black turf.
Has anyone had a similar experience or can anyone tell me if it sounds like I doing something wrong or the stove might be installed wrong?
Much appreciated!

Is the flue on an outside wall? We had similar problem. What was happening was the smoke was going up the chimney, cooling when it got 3/4 ways up then running back down as water on the inside of the flue. Our flue has a 90 degree bend in it. That bend has to be changed to a "T" joint so that when the water runs back down it sits in the bottom of the "T" and then when the fire is lit it evaporates again and does not run down into your stove. Either that or you would have to build a soot box outside to trap it.

I hope I am making sense - am after drinking several Irish Coffees! If you want to PM me I will try to explain.

momec · 05-10-2013 09:48PM

Also if you have a stove GET A CARBON MONOXIDE ALARM

JohnnieK · 05-10-2013 10:10PM

Also if the flue is on an outside wall it needs a twin wall insulated flue so condensation doesn't form.

tom1ie · 06-10-2013 09:31PM

Hi all
I'm looking at purchasing the Westcott 4.3kW Multifuel Inset Stove. Has anyone any experience of this stove? I've sized up my room, approx. 13x13x8 and I reckon this stove will do the business. Im getting a price of 549 at the moment but reckon I can get this down to 499 as ive seen it for that price online. What do you guys think? Is it a good stove? Decent price? I'm also getting a price of 150 for install. Is this a decent price or am I getting ripped? Thanks for all the help!

ronan45 · 09-10-2013 03:16PM

Has anyone used stovedeals.ie? Was looking for a stove with good output seen this 12KW cast iron one (CHINESE MADE). Seems quite good value at 350, but would rather spend more if its not of the best construction, any thoughts anyone?

http://www.adverts.ie/heating/12kw-multifuel-double-door-stove/1765718#comment_19385272

Audioslaven · 09-10-2013 09:31PM

ronan45 wrote: »

Has anyone used stovedeals.ie? Was looking for a stove with good output seen this 12KW cast iron one (CHINESE MADE). Seems quite good value at 350, but would rather spend more if its not of the best construction, any thoughts anyone?

http://www.adverts.ie/heating/12kw-multifuel-double-door-stove/1765718#comment_19385272

You get what you pay for. IMO I would be running away from a stove for 350 but it is up to youtself and your budget.i would think you would want to be paying a minimum of double that for something reasonable but I am sure there are people who will say these are fine.

Paranoid Mandroid · 09-10-2013 10:00PM

tom1ie wrote: »

Hi all
I'm looking at purchasing the Westcott 4.3kW Multifuel Inset Stove. Has anyone any experience of this stove? I've sized up my room, approx. 13x13x8 and I reckon this stove will do the business. Im getting a price of 549 at the moment but reckon I can get this down to 499 as ive seen it for that price online. What do you guys think? Is it a good stove? Decent price? I'm also getting a price of 150 for install. Is this a decent price or am I getting ripped? Thanks for all the help!

I have one. €500 sounds good to me and €150 ain't bad for install. Not the best stove though but that might depend on your set up, state of chimney etc.

firebox is small, mine is a bit fumey....if that's a word. I get around this though by building a full fire with couple firelighters, some fire log cut up, couple of kindling sticks, cover and fill the fire with ecobrite, light the base, close the door and that's it for a few hours. Opening the door without the fire/chimney being really warm causes a little smoke to come into the room I find so that's why I do the above. It's grand though once you get used to it and once it's warmed up. Serious heat out of it. Would highly recommend the ecobrite as others have. Lasts ages and the heat!

There are these negatives but I'm happy with it and for the price it's fine. I'm no expert but hope this helps. You get what you pay for but moving from open fire to this, you'll be pleased whatever you get.

largepants · 10-10-2013 10:22AM

Hope Im in the right place because my post involves pricing.

I bought a stove (11kw) for install in a large room with three large windows. We've decided to remove one window to install the stove.

The tradesman has included the following in his price:

Stove and fittings, removal of window and associated works (blocking up window, replastering etc), building fireplace, hearth and false chimney breast. I've been quoted a price of over 6k to complete everything. I nearly collasped. Is that excessive?

Either way we've made changes and we're leavibg out false chimney breast and just placing stove on plint and leave pipe exposed up the ceiling. Can I expect the price to drop by much?

eas · 11-10-2013 09:29PM

Hi all,

We've got delivery of a lovely new stove. The stove takes a 6" pipe, the problem is the flue seems to be an odd sized 7.5 inches in diameter. I know there are reducers, but non seem to be available for the 7.5 inch flue. The people who had the house before us seem to have just stuffed an 8-6 inch reducer in to the flue and said well enough. This is hardly the best solution?

The house is only 10 years old and I believe there was originally a gas fire in place but was removed and converted to solid fuel fireplace.

Robbie.G · 11-10-2013 09:52PM

eas wrote: »

Hi all,

We've got delivery of a lovely new stove. The stove takes a 6" pipe, the problem is the flue seems to be an odd sized 7.5 inches in diameter. I know there are reducers, but non seem to be available for the 7.5 inch flue. The people who had the house before us seem to have just stuffed an 8-6 inch reducer in to the flue and said well enough. This is hardly the best solution?

The house is only 10 years old and I believe there was originally a gas fire in place but was removed and converted to solid fuel fireplace.

If you contact flue makers they will manufacture one for you to whatever size you want

eas · 11-10-2013 10:07PM

Excellent, thanks. Is there a business called Flue Makers or is that a general flue maker?

Robbie.G · 11-10-2013 10:12PM

eas wrote: »

Excellent, thanks. Is there a business called Flue Makers or is that a general flue maker?

It's general there are numerous manufacturers in Ireland.
But as I said in the other forum you posted standard clay liners are 8 inch so I think it's cement that's built up on the flue gather

eas · 11-10-2013 10:16PM

Great. I'll have a closer look tomorrow to be sure. Thanks again

littlevillage · 11-10-2013 11:47PM

ronan45 wrote: »

Has anyone used stovedeals.ie? Was looking for a stove with good output seen this 12KW cast iron one (CHINESE MADE). Seems quite good value at 350, but would rather spend more if its not of the best construction, any thoughts anyone?

http://www.adverts.ie/heating/12kw-multifuel-double-door-stove/1765718#comment_19385272

Looking at the same website myself....prices seem very competitive.

Would be interested to hear from somebody who has bought one ... what is the stove performance like and what was the service from the company like?

Deedsie · 13-10-2013 01:06PM

Hi lads,

Hope someone can give me a bit of advice here. I want to change the rope gasket surrounding the door on a morso squirrel stove. I have removed the old rope and scraped out the inlet and wiped it out with water. I have the new rope gasket cut to measure but it's very difficult to close the door as it is. I was told I should glue to rope into place. Will I use any glue or is there a specific glue/cement that should be used? If so where would I be able to purchase it? I picked up an all purpose glue in woodies but it says highly flammable on the pack so I am reluctant to use that.

Any advice greatly appreciated. Thanks

RubyGirl · 13-10-2013 01:19PM

Deedsie wrote: »

Hi lads,

Hope someone can give me a bit of advice here. I want to change the rope gasket surrounding the door on a morso squirrel stove. I have removed the old rope and scraped out the inlet and wiped it out with water. I have the new rope gasket cut to measure but it's very difficult to close the door as it is. I was told I should glue to rope into place. Will I use any glue or is there a specific glue/cement that should be used? If so where would I be able to purchase it? I picked up an all purpose glue in woodies but it says highly flammable on the pack so I am reluctant to use that.

Any advice greatly appreciated. Thanks

You get a special glue for it, it's called Thermotite, I got mine in woodies.

cocobear · 13-10-2013 01:26PM

Hi guys I posted elsewhere but was kindly directed here
I have a solid fuel non boiler stove with a fixed stainless steel flue coming out the back which joins straight into the flue liners in the chimney breast.
Problem I have is that I get get water coming down the chimney, which then runs down the hot stainless steel flue and smells like hell, this only happens when the stove is lit.
The chimney is swept did it myself two weeks ago and the chimney is drafting well.
I think one of the flues in the chimney breast is falling back the wrong way and is holding rain water, you would notice this when sweeping the chimney that the brush is getting wet when you hit the bends?
Any advice most welcome most annoying thing is the smell as the water is sooty coming down and stinks the place out!

Robbie.G · 13-10-2013 02:03PM

cocobear wrote: »

Hi guys I posted elsewhere but was kindly directed here
I have a solid fuel non boiler stove with a fixed stainless steel flue coming out the back which joins straight into the flue liners in the chimney breast.
Problem I have is that I get get water coming down the chimney, which then runs down the hot stainless steel flue and smells like hell, this only happens when the stove is lit.
The chimney is swept did it myself two weeks ago and the chimney is drafting well.
I think one of the flues in the chimney breast is falling back the wrong way and is holding rain water, you would notice this when sweeping the chimney that the brush is getting wet when you hit the bends?
Any advice most welcome most annoying thing is the smell as the water is sooty coming down and stinks the place out!

Sounds like condensation in the flue.This is caused by to low temp of flue gases.
If thus is left alone it can cause serious damage to your stove.
What fuel are you burning
When you say it's connected from back of stoveto existing liners how is this done are you using 90 degree bends.
Is your chimney an internal or external one

cocobear · 13-10-2013 02:44PM

Robbie.G wrote: »

Sounds like condensation in the flue.This is caused by to low temp of flue gases.
If thus is left alone it can cause serious damage to your stove.
What fuel are you burning
When you say it's connected from back of stoveto existing liners how is this done are you using 90 degree bends.
Is your chimney an internal or external one

Burning a mix of coal and seasoned hard wood
Connected yes with 90 degree bend
Internal comes through the middle of my roof ( roughly half way between gutter and apex of roof) and is the full width of the room away from the gable end

Robbie.G · 13-10-2013 04:41PM

cocobear wrote: »

Burning a mix of coal and seasoned hard wood
Connected yes with 90 degree bend
Internal comes through the middle of my roof ( roughly half way between gutter and apex of roof) and is the full width of the room away from the gable end

There are a few reasons for condensation in a flue one is to wet of fuel another is flue gas cooling to quickly and other is oversized flue.
The flue coming off the back if stove with a 90degree bend won't help with draw on flue the 90degree bend us against building regs.If this is something that us new and only started happening look at what's new have you changed fuel if its not that it's a flue problem.
Possible cures are fit a flexi liner ad this reduces the flue size to the correct size.
Fuel problem.

eas · 13-10-2013 07:44PM

Robbie.G wrote: »

It's general there are numerous manufacturers in Ireland.
But as I said in the other forum you posted standard clay liners are 8 inch so I think it's cement that's built up on the flue gather

I had a closer look today and there does seem to be some extra lumps of cement on the flue gather. On top of that, the hole from the flue gather and the clay liner don't match up very well. Is it ok to chip away at the flue gather to get the stove pipe properly into the liner?

Robbie.G · 13-10-2013 07:46PM

eas wrote: »

I had a closer look today and there does seem to be some extra lumps of cement on the flue gather. On top of that, the hole from the flue gather and the clay liner don't match up very well. Is it ok to chip away at the flue gather to get the stove pipe properly into the liner?

There's no problem chipping away but a pic does say a thousand words

eas · 13-10-2013 07:52PM

thanks Robbie, I'll take a few pics tomorrow and post them up.

your willingness to advise is much appreciated.

DenisCork · 13-10-2013 09:36PM

Robbie.G wrote: »

There are a few reasons for condensation in a flue one is to wet of fuel another is flue gas cooling to quickly and other is oversized flue.
The flue coming off the back if stove with a 90degree bend won't help with draw on flue the 90degree bend us against building regs.If this is something that us new and only started happening look at what's new have you changed fuel if its not that it's a flue problem.
Possible cures are fit a flexi liner ad this reduces the flue size to the correct size.
Fuel problem.

Hi Robbie,
Where does building regs say no 90degree bends?

Robbie.G · 13-10-2013 09:52PM

DenisCork wrote: »

Hi Robbie,
Where does building regs say no 90degree bends?

2.5 Direction - Flues should be vertical wherever possible and where a bend is necessary, it should not make an angle of more than 37.5° with the vertical. Horizontal flue runs should be avoided except in the case of a back outlet appliance, when the length of the horizontal section should not exceed 150 mm.

More info here
http://www.environ.ie/en/Publications/DevelopmentandHousing/BuildingStandards/FileDownLoad,1650,en.pdf

Deedsie · 13-10-2013 10:18PM

RubyGirl wrote: »

You get a special glue for it, it's called Thermotite, I got mine in woodies.

I went in to woodiesdiy today looking for it. None of the staff had heard of it in the store I went to. Do you mind me asking where you got yours? Which store I mean?

RubyGirl · 13-10-2013 10:41PM

Deedsie wrote: »

I went in to woodiesdiy today looking for it. None of the staff had heard of it in the store I went to. Do you mind me asking where you got yours? Which store I mean?

I'm in Galway, Wellpark store. They have a heating section there, they sell fire screen's, baskets, and all thing's fire related. It was sold as a pack with the rope seal.

That's def the name of it.

RubyGirl · 13-10-2013 10:44PM

http://www.woodiesdiy.com/Product/Replacement-Door-Seal-Kit/13183/6.0.0.15#.UlsT3dKsiSo

I'd go in tomorrow and give them what's for, and then the manager aswell.

DenisCork · 13-10-2013 10:50PM

Robbie.G wrote: »

2.5 Direction - Flues should be vertical wherever possible and where a bend is necessary, it should not make an angle of more than 37.5° with the vertical. Horizontal flue runs should be avoided except in the case of a back outlet appliance, when the length of the horizontal section should not exceed 150 mm.

More info here
http://www.environ.ie/en/Publications/DevelopmentandHousing/BuildingStandards/FileDownLoad,1650,en.pdf

Most stoves have a back outlet so after a max of 150mm on the horizontal you need a 90 or two 45's to connect to the vertical. I think the 37.5 degree is more for getting past gutters etc, althought I think you'd find it difficult to put your hand on a 37.5 degree bend.

Robbie.G · 13-10-2013 10:55PM

DenisCork wrote: »

Most stoves have a back outlet so after a max of 150mm on the horizontal you need a 90 or two 45's to connect to the vertical. I think the 37.5 degree is more for getting past gutters etc, althought I think you'd find it difficult to put your hand on a 37.5 degree bend.

90degree bends have the potential to kill you.How do you sweep past a 90degree bend you can't.I agree with the 37.5 degree bit but contact any stove manufacturer and ask if you can use a 90 bend and see what reply you get.

STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

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