STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

El.duderino · 01-10-2013 03:50PM

Got a cheap quote to install a non boiler freestanding stove into an open fireplace.
>Should the stove outlet be properly sealed into the chimney breast.
>Is it a requirement to fully pipe from stove to chimney pot? According to this reputable company it is not a requirement?

From what I gather they will install freestanding stove on existing fireplace. Remove rear of fireplace. 90 degree bend out of stove and few feet of flexi-pipe into the chimney!

Is this the done thing? I dont know much about stoves but doesnt sound good at all.

I have smoke back draugths with an open fire when opening/closing doors. It sounds to me the installation will not seal the chimney fully and possible still have back draughts and/or worse coming back down unsealed chimney? Any advice pm or otherwise appreciated.

Thanks

leanbh · 01-10-2013 05:24PM

This post has been deleted.

Robbie.G · 01-10-2013 05:46PM

leanbh wrote: »

Just bumping the query re stove installer. Is there a list anywhere of approved installers (like rgi gas installer list!) I have a quote for 1.5 k including parts but I would like someone recommended? Anyone?

Unfortunately there is no such thing as an installer list as there isn't a regulatory body over solid fuel installations.
If you check out oriel flues they have a list of installers that have been trained to hetas standards

Robbie.G · 01-10-2013 06:02PM

El.duderino wrote: »

Got a cheap quote to install a non boiler freestanding stove into an open fireplace.
>Should the stove outlet be properly sealed into the chimney breast.
>Is it a requirement to fully pipe from stove to chimney pot? According to this reputable company it is not a requirement?

From what I gather they will install freestanding stove on existing fireplace. Remove rear of fireplace. 90 degree bend out of stove and few feet of flexi-pipe into the chimney!

Is this the done thing? I dont know much about stoves but doesnt sound good at all.

I have smoke back draugths with an open fire when opening/closing doors. It sounds to me the installation will not seal the chimney fully and possible still have back draughts and/or worse coming back down unsealed chimney? Any advice pm or otherwise appreciated.

Thanks

The flue has to be fully sealed to chimney there are various ways of doing this.
If you fit a freestanding stove on a hearth you will need a extension to the existing hearth or a new one.
A 90 degree bend is not allowed.
Flexi flue can't be connected directly to a stove there must be a min of 600mm of solid pipe first.
Regarding the downdraft by fitting a stove this will not cure the problem.
If this is cured when a door is opened you need extra air into room by means of a vent.
Hope some off this has been usefull to you

rachaelf750 · 01-10-2013 10:39PM

leanbh wrote: »

This post has been deleted.

I just found Hetas Ireland on Facebook,they have a map locating everyone in Ireland who is trained to work with stoves and flue systems.Hope this helps.

https://www.facebook.com/hetas.ireland?fref=ts

iano80 · 01-10-2013 10:43PM

Help please

Trying to decide on a stove for our 16" open fireplace, some help with a few questions would be realy great, getting some conflicting advise from different stove shops.

Room size is 14f X 17f x 9f ceiling, facing NW, two external walls, one with large arch window 7x6", dormer house built in 2006 so with 50mm cavity insulation,

Kw output needed? and insert or free standing? online calculations average about 4.5kw output needed, but was advised by two stove shops that a insert would not be sufficient to heat the room and a standalone is needed, but the other advised a Boru 400i (6kw) or 500i (8.5kw).

So on stove ratings, does a 6kw rated insert give off as much heat as a 6kw free standing? if so either one should do the job. Also is it the max rating that the manufacturers use? tested with wood or coal?

wilhelm · 01-10-2013 11:13PM

I have just bought a stove for the first time in my life.

I went for the cheapest stove I could find, on the basis that it will likely be moved within a few years to a workshop I intend building onto the back of the garage.

Anyway, some questions if I may.

I have done days of research, and will fit it myself.

Chimney is lined, and I have a stainless steel adaptor/reducer that you insert into the chimney.

From this adaptor/reducer connected to the chimney flue, working down toward the stove sitting on my hearth, is a 45 degree elbow, a 500mm long flue pipe, and another 45 degree bend that will go into the back.

it uses 125mm, or 5 inch pipes and elbows.

Problem I have run into is the follwing.
The stainless steel adapter/reducer that fits snugly into the lined chimney. the bottom part is 125mm, which is means I have to use the flared part of the 45 degree elbow side to mate with it.
This then obviously forces me to use the flared part of the 500mm flue pipe to fit into the other side of the elbow.
This in turn then forces me to use the flared part of the second 45 degree elbow to fit into the unused part of the 500mm flue pipe.

All this means that this last end, the non-flared or narrower part of the lower/last 45 degree elbow that I want to fit into the stove is an extremely loose fit into the stove coupling. The flared side is a tight, snug fit, but the normal diameter can be wiggled around in the housing very easily, with lots of play.

Questions I have are:

1. Do you get 45 degree elbows with both sides flared, or is the one side always flared, and the other side normal?

2. Or is there a way I can seal this so as to remove the considerable amount of play/movement? A safe, recommended, and usual way?

3. Another issue is that the 500mm pipe is too long. I need to remove 50 or 60mm, but a friend said that you're not supposed to cut flue pipe as "it could crack".
I would understand if they were cast, but close inspection reveals a seam line, which suggests rolled steel which has been seam welded.

Trying to get this done before the cold kicks in, so good, solid advice will be greatly and profusely appreciated.

I hope my explanation was lucid, and hasn't caused wild confusion...

EDIT: I see Mlenane100 and RobbieG were having a discussion about the loose fitting back stove coupling and the 125mm/5 inch pipe. I have a similar gap where the play seems to be alarmingly excessive, to a layman. Mlenane100, how did it work out? Are you just using the fire rope, or fire cement too?

bennyineire · 02-10-2013 11:22AM

bennyineire wrote: »

Hey peps, I have a second hand cooker/stove installed and ready to go, it has a back boiler and I know that if I light a fire before its connected to the water that it will warp the boiler. Thing is I have it all in place but the gob****es who done the plumbing when I built the house 6 years ago put in an overhead PVC pipe instead of a copper pipe going to my hotpress, thing is no plumber will connect it up for me and I really can't afford to change the pipe as I a mature student and won't be working till about January.
So basically my question is would it cost much to replace the boiler during the summer so I can have it ready for next winter, I'm willing to sacrifice the boiler thats already in it if it's not gonna cost to much the get a new one,
What do ya reckon
Thanks in advance

Can anyone help me out with this guys, I'm just looking for an opinion as I'll need to light the fire very soon

BazCream · 02-10-2013 12:38PM

Hi Guys,

I really need some help & advice on this. I purchased a Stanley Reginald Boiler stove in April and had it installed by my builder. I lit a few starter fires back in April but nothing hectic only a small amount of timber & briquttes. It then remained idle for the summer until Monday night. I bought a trailer load of very dry black turf and had some well seasoned timber about 18mths old. So I lit a decent size fire with some starter brickettes, timber and turf and after about 2 hrs I started hearing this hissing / spitting noise. Basically where the stove meets the flu there was this boiling brown sticky fluid spitting out all over the stove and stone work of the fire place. My only option was to try cover the area with an old towel and let the fire die down. I was left with a really bad brunt smell in the sitting room and this dried sticky fluid all over the enamel of the stove and a new sandstone fireplace.
I phoned my builder and he said you cant 100% airtight a stove and that it possibly might be the turf!. Anyone who has looked at this turf said it is very dry black turf.
Has anyone had a similar experience or can anyone tell me if it sounds like I doing something wrong or the stove might be installed wrong?
Much appreciated!

Robbie.G · 02-10-2013 02:05PM

bennyineire wrote: »

Can anyone help me out with this guys, I'm just looking for an opinion as I'll need to light the fire very soon

Contact the maker of the stove and ask their advice because I don't think anyone here will advise as it goes against everything

bennyineire · 02-10-2013 05:59PM

Robbie.G wrote: »

Contact the maker of the stove and ask their advice because I don't think anyone here will advise as it goes against everything

So your telling me no one here has any idea of a ballpark figure of how much it costs to get a replacement boiler for a cooker with a back boiler.

TTTT · 02-10-2013 06:18PM

bennyineire wrote: »

So your telling me no one here has any idea of a ballpark figure of how much it costs to get a replacement boiler for a cooker with a back boiler.

What type of cooker and boiler do you have? I just paid €325 for a 47K Stanley Errigal boiler (it's the same one for a Comeragh) but you have to strip down the range to change it. NOT a simple change over. A 10K boiler would be much easier though.

Robbie.G · 02-10-2013 06:19PM

bennyineire wrote: »

So your telling me no one here has any idea of a ballpark figure of how much it costs to get a replacement boiler for a cooker with a back boiler.

What make and model of cooker without that info no one could tell you.

MugMugs · 02-10-2013 08:17PM

BazCream wrote: »

I phoned my builder and he said you cant 100% airtight a stove and that it possibly might be the turf!. Anyone who has looked at this turf said it is very dry black turf.
Has anyone had a similar experience or can anyone tell me if it sounds like I doing something wrong or the stove might be installed wrong?
Much appreciated!

Is it dry though?

I've yet to meet somebody who sells completely dry turf and your delivery was fairly recent.

BazCream · 02-10-2013 08:43PM

Yes its bone dry and nice n black looking!?

MugMugs · 02-10-2013 08:53PM

BazCream wrote: »

Yes its bone dry and nice n black looking!?

Your builder doesn't sound extremely helpful.

Have you tried burning only wood?

BazCream · 02-10-2013 08:55PM

yes I did back in april when its was installed just a few small starter fires. I didnt get the boiling fluid spitting but there was a sooty burning smell in the sitting room

Robbie.G · 02-10-2013 08:59PM

BazCream wrote: »

Hi Guys,

I really need some help & advice on this. I purchased a Stanley Reginald Boiler stove in April and had it installed by my builder. I lit a few starter fires back in April but nothing hectic only a small amount of timber & briquttes. It then remained idle for the summer until Monday night. I bought a trailer load of very dry black turf and had some well seasoned timber about 18mths old. So I lit a decent size fire with some starter brickettes, timber and turf and after about 2 hrs I started hearing this hissing / spitting noise. Basically where the stove meets the flu there was this boiling brown sticky fluid spitting out all over the stove and stone work of the fire place. My only option was to try cover the area with an old towel and let the fire die down. I was left with a really bad brunt smell in the sitting room and this dried sticky fluid all over the enamel of the stove and a new sandstone fireplace.
I phoned my builder and he said you cant 100% airtight a stove and that it possibly might be the turf!. Anyone who has looked at this turf said it is very dry black turf.
Has anyone had a similar experience or can anyone tell me if it sounds like I doing something wrong or the stove might be installed wrong?
Much appreciated!

What way is the flue connected as nothing should run down the outside of the flue.the flue should be sealed.More than likely the problem is the turf it has to be wet when was it cut as turf should be left for at least 1 year
Try a different fuel

MugMugs · 02-10-2013 09:01PM

BazCream wrote: »

yes I did back in april when its was installed just a few small starter fires. I didnt get the boiling fluid spitting but there was a sooty burning smell in the sitting room

That should be sealed off.

Get a second opinion pronto and don't burn the stove until somebody has looked at it for you.

BazCream · 02-10-2013 09:05PM

Hi thanks for the reply, its at the very base of the flu where it meets the stove. I inspected it and the sealant is broken, hard and is chipping away. As I said the stove is brand new with less than 10 fires. This afternoon I phoned the place where I bought the stanley (Ryans Nenagh) and they said that it should have nothing got to do with the turf if it was installed correct. The Stanley Reginald is a multi fuel burner.

BazCream · 02-10-2013 09:06PM

MugMugs wrote: »

That should be sealed off.

Get a second opinion pronto and don't burn the stove until somebody has looked at it for you.

Thanks yes im worried also about toxic gases

sausagehead · 02-10-2013 11:14PM

Hi, ......so anyway i got an insert stove fitted last week and i've lit about 5 small fires lasting 4 to 5 hours, burning kiln dryed ash wood, the paint curing process smell seems to have finished but the living room smells like burning soot during burning and in the morning! is this normal?
i can't see any smoke coming from the stove, apart from the time i started a fire and closed the door to soon, the stove filled with smoke and come through the top of the stove, i opened the door and it cleared out into the room!
my living room smells like a bonfire! help!!

dugger · 03-10-2013 01:44PM

BazCream wrote: »

Hi thanks for the reply, its at the very base of the flu where it meets the stove. I inspected it and the sealant is broken, hard and is chipping away. As I said the stove is brand new with less than 10 fires. This afternoon I phoned the place where I bought the stanley (Ryans Nenagh) and they said that it should have nothing got to do with the turf if it was installed correct. The Stanley Reginald is a multi fuel burner.

Maybe there is a leak on the weld running along the top of your boiler, Stanley now buy in the boilers from abroad so they cant be 100% sure there is not a leak from any of the welds, This would mean that when the boiler heats up the water inside the boiler maybe escaping from the leak and the water would be a dirty brown colour

MugMugs · 03-10-2013 02:21PM

sausagehead wrote: »

Hi, ......so anyway i got an insert stove fitted last week and i've lit about 5 small fires lasting 4 to 5 hours, burning kiln dryed ash wood, the paint curing process smell seems to have finished but the living room smells like burning soot during burning and in the morning! is this normal?
i can't see any smoke coming from the stove, apart from the time i started a fire and closed the door to soon, the stove filled with smoke and come through the top of the stove, i opened the door and it cleared out into the room!
my living room smells like a bonfire! help!!

I presume you're not leaving the door open and allowing smoke out?

Have you called back the installer?

sausagehead · 03-10-2013 05:29PM

MugMugs wrote: »

I presume you're not leaving the door open and allowing smoke out?

Have you called back the installer?

no. i'm not leaving the door open!

will call the installer

thanks

MugMugs · 03-10-2013 05:50PM

sausagehead wrote: »

no. i'm not leaving the door open!

will call the installer

thanks

You'd be very surprised what people do.

There's a draw issue.

How is the flue attatched to the stove or is it just ditching fumes into the breach of the fireplace and reliant on the draw to remove them?

byte · 03-10-2013 09:31PM

Does anyone have one of those automatic air valves in their stove?

There's one in my new Boru Carraig, though it doesn't seem to do much, regardless what number I put the wheel on. Even if I have it on maybe 2 with a raging fire over hours, it has no affect in self-closing the small baffle at the back. Only if I turn it to 0, do I hear a slight noise from behind the stove from what I assume is the baffle that opens/closes when desired temp has been reached. Though I can still see air coming in the vent holes.

Are these things meant to be of any use at all or just a gimmick?

JohnnieK · 04-10-2013 09:40PM

Has anyone any experiance with a fuel called STOVOIDS? supposed to be highly recommended for stove's.

Robbie.G · 04-10-2013 10:58PM

JohnnieK wrote: »

Has anyone any experiance with a fuel called STOVOIDS? supposed to be highly recommended for stove's.

They are another name for ecobrite.
All very good for stoves as they are a manufactured smokeless coal good heat and long burn.

JohnnieK · 04-10-2013 11:06PM

Robbie.G wrote: »

They are another name for ecobrite.
All very good for stoves as they are a manufactured smokeless coal good heat and long burn.

Thanks Robbie.

STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

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