Shortening hose for hydraulic brakes on MTB

check_six · 02-05-2013 12:30PM #1

I finally got a new set of brakes for my old MTB. I had a set of Hayes Nines but the rear brake always rubbed on the disc. Recently the front brakes have been doing the same thing. Cycling the bike was an exercise in pushing past the braking force of the two stuck brakes.

Now some people might be delighted with the extra effort required to cycle in view of some kind of vicious training regime, but I just wanted the wheels to turn more than half a rotation before sticking.

I got some Shimano Deore pre-assembled brakes, which are nice and simple to install, but the hoses are way too long, like 30-50cm too long.

Can anyone give me some tips or guidance on shortening the hoses?
The Shimano Deore brakes have "Mineral Oil" written on side of them, and there were a few little extra doohickeys in the box that I cannot identify.

jiffybag · 02-05-2013 08:38PM

Simple job . Did the new brakes come with spare brass olives?
Just need to cut the cables the desired length, make sure you use a pointed end to reopen the cut end of the cable . Place the brass olive onto the cable and insert back into the lever.tighten the 8mm bolt and away you go .

(Hopefully)

Popoutman · 02-05-2013 08:59PM

For reference to those that might not be overly familiar with hydraulic brakes (not necessarily aimed at the OP);
Don't forget to bleed the brakes completely after the disassembly of hydraulic hoses.

letape · 02-05-2013 11:04PM

jiffybag wrote: »

Simple job . Did the new brakes come with spare brass olives?
Just need to cut the cables the desired length, make sure you use a pointed end to reopen the cut end of the cable . Place the brass olive onto the cable and insert back into the lever.tighten the 8mm bolt and away you go .

(Hopefully)

I have to say I've tried this and for me it wasn't so simple! If you just cut and try to refit you'll have air in the lines?!

jamesd · 03-05-2013 12:00AM

letape wrote: »

I have to say I've tried this and for me it wasn't so simple! If you just cut and try to refit you'll have air in the lines?!

Bleed them afterwards.

check_six · 03-05-2013 08:21AM

I've checked the box and there is a wee brass ring thing (an olive?) and a little pipe with serrations on it (name unknown). I presume these bits are one use only, and are jammed onto the end of the cut hose?
I'm starting to think it might be worth getting a shop to do the work. Bleeding the brakes looks like it needs some special equipment which I don't have.

Anyone any idea how much a shop would charge?
Or, anyone know where to get a bleed kit?

jamesd · 10-05-2013 02:48PM

check_six wrote: »

Or, anyone know where to get a bleed kit?

http://www.epicbleedsolutions.com/products/bleed-kits/

Easy to bleed them yourself.

Sagi · 10-05-2013 03:03PM

Hi the theory is that you cut the hose to the desired length squeeze the litle pipe in at the end and ptu the olive over the hose.
Then mount the whole thing to the caliper and if you did a good job no bleeding will be necessary.

My experience is that the little pipe does not fit into the hose, without using violence, some oil always comes out and some air always goes in.

Remove the brakepads before you start working to avoid getting them oily.

Luckily most shimano models are fairly easy to bleed.

Have fun

wotdef · 10-05-2013 04:21PM

Cut the hoses at the lever. Keep the open part of the reservoir pointed up so that no oil runs out or air gets in. Cut the top of the hose with a stanley knife. Make sure the nut is on the hose before putting the olive on. Then drift the little insert in with a small hammer. If you got two pieces of yellow plastic these are used to clamp the hose to help with getting the insert in. Then tighten it all up, not too tight mind. If you over tighten an olive it will become useless. If this is all done as described there should be no need to bleed the system. Simples. Yes.

Popoutman · 11-05-2013 05:14AM

wotdef wrote: »

If this is all done as described there should be no need to bleed the system.

Any time that you cut the hose, you'll have an air bubble of some size unless you are incredibly lucky. This comes from seeing a lot of hydraulic brake hoses being tweaked in the local mtb club (~20 bikes over the past 6 years).

Given how little effort is required to bleed brakes once you are a bit practised at it and the benefits of having a properly hard brake lever, it'd be silly not to.

Having said that you may be lucky when working close to the reservoir that bubbles that are in the system after opening off the hose may end up working their way to the top of the system and into the reservoir, but it is still considered best-practice to bleed the system.

Shortening hose for hydraulic brakes on MTB

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