Enterprise Dinghy

fergal.b · 17-11-2012 12:01PM

For getting at old nails and screws out I use one of these and just place it over the nail and it will cut around it then pull it out with your pillars.

Plug cutter
Plug+Cutter.jpg

Mr.Boots · 22-11-2012 08:36AM

Another quick question......I need a new sander so was wonder which is better for this project......a random orbital sander or a belt sander???
I already have one of those mouse sanders.

fergal.b · 22-11-2012 08:55AM

Mr.Boots wrote: »

Another quick question......I need a new sander so was wonder which is better for this project......a random orbital sander or a belt sander???
I already have one of those mouse sanders.

Random orbital sander will give you a much better finish and is good on curved surfaces , I would only use the belt sander on very rough flat timber.

Mr.Boots · 22-11-2012 01:27PM

Thanks fergal, your an asset to this forum.

Mr.Boots · 08-02-2013 10:53AM

Sobi havnt done much to the boat recently as we had a seriously ill familey member. All back on track now thankfully so I've started into it again.
I'm starting the scarf joints and will need to glue them.
Just wondering where I might get some epoxy resin and filler???
I've been into Viking marine in dun laoghaire a few times but is there a better place to get it (cheaper) online or high street. I'm in north Wexford if that helps.
Also what type of epoxy resin for glueing?

Hmmmm....gonna need paint, primer and yacht varnish also..... Where will I go for these?

fergal.b · 08-02-2013 12:08PM

I use west system 105 resin and 205 hardener with 407 low density filler and get it from http://www.marineparts.ie/paint-and-maintenance/epoxy-repair-kits/epoxy-kits/#ty;pagination_contents;/paint-and-maintenance/epoxy-repair-kits/epoxy-kits/page-3/ it's handy to mix with the pumps as it's one - one and if you spend over €100 I think it's free post. West system is more or less the same price worldwide so there shouldn't be much of a price difference if you buy it in a local marine shop,it's not cheep I know but I find it the best and there web site has lots of info http://www.westsystem.com/ss/ .
For gluing a joint put a bit of mixed resin on each piece and let it soak in then mix some resin with filler till its like smooth peanut butter and spread it on then clamp them together with just enough force to hold them in place without squeezing out all the filler.
You could also try http://www.chmarine.com/ for paint and epoxy.

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Mr.Boots · 08-02-2013 12:50PM

Thanks fergal, roughly how much would I need? Start with a 1kg fast pack for €49.95?
Have to attach roughly 8 ply patches average about 2ftx2ft in size

fergal.b · 08-02-2013 01:15PM

Mr.Boots wrote: »

Thanks fergal, roughly how much would I need? Start with a 1kg fast pack for €49.95?
Have to attach roughly 8 ply patches average about 2ftx2ft in size

You should get away with that but I find the 5kg good value about €120 you will always find ways to use it and it's better to have more than less

Mr.Boots · 08-02-2013 01:54PM

Yea the 5kg would be better value.
What's the difference between fast and slow? Drying times?
Where is a good place to get varnish fergal? Online or from local builders merchant?

fergal.b · 08-02-2013 02:35PM

If you are mixing large amounts in one go like if you wanted to coat the boat go with a slow hardener as it gives you a bit more time to work with, it can also give a smoother finish as it takes longer to set.
I would stick with marine varnish from the likes of marineparts or chmarine some builder merchant do sell what they call "yacht varnish" but I would pay the bit extra for the good stuff, I like schooner Gold by international but everyone has their own taste.

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Mr.Boots · 09-02-2013 11:45AM

So should I coat the new bits of ply with epoxy an hardener or will the paint protect it?

fergal.b · 09-02-2013 12:13PM

I coat all plywood with epoxy making sure the edges get an extra bit it might take two coats to get a good seal but if you add the second coat after about 3 hours you won't have to sand it, if you are going to be gluing another piece to the ply leave that part bare till you are ready to glue it. Epoxy doesn't have much UV protection so it will need to be painted or varnished if it's left in sunlight. When the epoxy sets it can leave a wax like covering "amine blush" that has to be washed off with soapy water and then given a light sanding before varnishing or painting.
Good luck.

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Mr.Boots · 11-02-2013 09:55AM

A few pics of her so far.....

fergal.b · 11-02-2013 10:24AM

You have some interesting angles to match up there a bit like a 3D jigsaw

Looking good.

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Mr.Boots · 11-02-2013 10:58AM

It maybe looks more angular than it is. Most of the panels are flat with straight edges, ive kept them as templets anyway. You right though, it's just a jigsaw.
Thank for your help fergal.

BrensBenz · 11-02-2013 12:07PM

OP, Lots of good advice here from the usual suspects and, from the photos, it appears you certainly have the skills to bring this boat back to life.

I may be wrong, and apologies if so, but I got the impression that you are newish to sailing(?) The "soft chine" design of the Enterprise, coupled with its go-fast pedigree makes this boat....emm....lively! I've certainly had some interesting moments in Enterprises! When the restoration is completed, I would humbly advise cautious sailing, in light breezes and with good safety ethic until you can put manners on the Enterprise. Better still, have some formal training first, in something a little more sedate.

Finally, be warned! This boat restoration lark is addictive. Maybe we can't give birth but we can build boats which could outlive us all. My National 18 was wrecked and needed 2000+ hours to bring her back to life. I'm quite fond of my kids but I LOVE that boat!

Mr.Boots · 11-02-2013 01:40PM

Thanks for the comments, I'm not new to sailing, just new to dinghies. So yea I reckon I'll get a short sharp shock when I take her out for the first time. I'm more used to 35ft+ boats. But extremely excited about sailing it. Safety wise, it has bounancy bags, ill have a hand held radio in a waterproof vessel and of course, life jackets.
And I'm already looking for more projects

Mr.Boots · 12-02-2013 11:22AM

Getting the boat ready for scarfing in new ply. I've made the scarfs 2" long. Handy enough to do with orbital sander and a sharp chisel.
These need finishing by hand with paper to get the lines of ply straight.
This is the centre on the boat, port side. There was a self bailer installed here also but I'm not sure I will re-install it as I've heard mixed report about them.

fergal.b · 12-02-2013 11:57AM

If you are using an orbital sander with a dust bag and the dust is fine like "wood flour" you can save that up and use it to thicken up your epoxy instead of using microballoons

I'm not a big fan of the self bailers much prefer half a milk carton:D

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Mr.Boots · 12-02-2013 12:00PM

Yea I have been collecting the dust, much to my wife's amusement.
Funny enough the boat came with a half milk carton also....maybe they also thought the self bailer was a bag of....

pburrows · 30-05-2013 08:24PM

Hi all, I've just found this thread and am trying to take the rub rail off my enterprise dinghy. I'm finding it hard to get the wooden plugs out and also don't know if its screwed or revived on. Does anyone know? Thanks

fergal.b · 30-05-2013 08:39PM

Hi pburrows it's hard to say what was used on her over the years but if you can see plugs then I'd say it's screwed on, you could try using one of these that is a bit bigger than the plugs you have and cut around them then give them a tap and they should brake off if the screw heads are all glued then cut right through the rub rail with the plug cutter and that should release it.

Plug+Cutter.jpg

pburrows · 30-05-2013 11:34PM

Hi Fergal. Thanks for the link. If I have to drill the whole plug out and through the rubrail how would I fix it back on again? Can't work it out. Thanks

fergal.b · 30-05-2013 11:45PM

If you are replacing any of the rub rail use the scrap and cut out some plugs "with the plug cutter in the photo" to fill the holes or else use a similar pice of wood line up the grain of the plug with the grain of the rail and glue it in it will be almost invisible.

pburrows wrote: »

Hi Fergal. Thanks for the link. If I have to drill the whole plug out and through the rubrail how would I fix it back on again? Can't work it out. Thanks

pburrows · 30-05-2013 11:53PM

Yeah but if I cut through the whole rubrail then there's nothing left to re screw is there?

fergal.b · 31-05-2013 12:05AM

You will have to counter sink a new hole screw it on and plug it or if you want you can counter sink the first plugs when the glue is set I use epoxy mixed with sanding dust from the wood I'm working with.

pburrows wrote: »

Yeah but if I cut through the whole rubrail then there's nothing left to re screw is there?

pburrows · 31-05-2013 12:15AM

Ahh I get it. You mean cut the old screws out and then re fix with new screws in new holes filling both old and new?

fergal.b · 31-05-2013 12:24AM

Yep

you could use the old holes that have been plugged but the screw won't have the same hold going into an old hole as they would with a new hole unless you go for bigger screws plus you will end up with a plug within a plug

pburrows wrote: »

Ahh I get it. You mean cut the old screws out and then re fix with new screws in new holes filling both old and new?

pburrows · 31-05-2013 10:32PM

Well I'm having a bit of a nightmare with this. The rub rail seems to be pinned on with barbed pins. I've bought a dremel today and some plug cutters but only 8 and 10 mm so the cut whole is way too big to use to expose the fixings. I've been using various dremel tools as well as a hacksaw blade behind the rub rail cutting the pins. The rails is coming off but it's making a real mess and is only half way there. Any other ideas to get these pins out? There solid and won't drill I've broken 3 bits on them already

fergal.b · 31-05-2013 10:51PM

At this stage would it be better just to pull the rub rail off and make a new one.

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Enterprise Dinghy

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