Overflow pipe for condensate drain.

I want to run it down the wall (behind the insulation backed plasterboard) but dont want to run it too low, when it is in use I want to make sure any condensate flows away positively, had hoped there was something I could do it without joints.

I want to minimise the number of joints, ie one at the boiler end and one at the connection to the drain, I'd prefer no other joints in between either fully or partially behind plaster board.

Is that the same flexible piping that is used to drain washing machines?

sullzz wrote: »

Why can't you run it outside , what are you going to with the safety valve pipe

Why cant i run the condensate drain outside? well to where? I would then have to connect it to a drain somewhere which is going to look a bit crap, most of the information I have found suggests connecting it to an existing drain and this is the tidiest looking. If you want extra sockets in, do you want someone to tack it over the wall/skirting boards or will you prefer they chased it in the wall, beside you must be aware the condensate is corrosive, even if only slightly, so at the least it will stain the patio.
as for a safety valve pipe, what of it? I dont know why you are referring to something else, I'm just looking to put a condensate drain in while I'm doing other work, if you are suggesting I connect into that?? or are you saying its draining outside?? yes, its a stub of pipe sticking out of the wall, buts likely its pH doesnt make it corrosive, i.e. greater or lower than 7.

[QUOTE=anthonyos;78040139]i love diy plumbers they nearly always get it wrong takes them 4 times as long and by the time they realize they messed it up they are paying a professional to rectify their tempt god loves a trier [/QUOTE]

I'm looking for some advice, I dont really appreciate the smart reply, if you read my post, Im doing other work where I want to put a drain in at the same time, do you suggest I get a plumber in to put in one drain pipe?? what, thats about 2 metres long?
If you aren't willing to contribute constructive advice, why bother??

As its the law, when I am getting a new boiler I will require an RGI, but that will be after the fact/my kitchen units are in, so what then, do you suggest I do? get a plumber in specifically to rip it all out when this could be a year down the road??

DIY plumbers ok can you give me a rough estimate on how much it would cost to replace, 4 wash hand basin taps, and a set of bath taps?

Thanks to those that provided constructive advice, much appreciated.

No worries, I did my trade as an aircraft mech, I feel that I am reasonably qualified (competent) to do a bit of plumbing connections like taps and other minor repairs, I dont have the specific experience all the time, thats why I ask for specific advice, but i have a lot of time under my belt doing up connections and the like.
I accept that RGI's are required by law and that I wont have their experience to assess and fit the correct size boiler,but I did enough hydraulic connections to feel competent of doing a few taps and stick in a bit of piping anyway, i need to save whatever I can at the moment.
I planned to connect under the sink, however I want to instal the pipe and blank both ends until I am changing the boiler, plus from what I have read, the height I (get RGI to connect)connect and whether I get the drain connected upstream or downstream, basically depends on the boiler requirements as far as I can see, but that wont be my concern, that'll be the RGI's.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sullzz
Why can't you run it outside , what are you going to with the safety valve pipe

Why cant i run the condensate drain outside? well to where? I would then have to connect it to a drain somewhere which is going to look a bit crap, most of the information I have found suggests connecting it to an existing drain and this is the tidiest looking. If you want extra sockets in, do you want someone to tack it over the wall/skirting boards or will you prefer they chased it in the wall, beside you must be aware the condensate is corrosive, even if only slightly, so at the least it will stain the patio.
as for a safety valve pipe, what of it? I dont know why you are referring to something else, I'm just looking to put a condensate drain in while I'm doing other work, if you are suggesting I connect into that?? or are you saying its draining outside?? yes, its a stub of pipe sticking out of the wall, buts likely its pH doesnt make it corrosive, i.e. greater or lower than 7.

sullzz wrote: »

You say you dont like smart replies , well im not a fan of them either , i only asked a question to offer some help , no need to get all defensive , the safety valve pipe will not be just a stub of copper it would terminate just above ground level , no more advice will be offered from me with an attitude like that .also if your not confident enough to glue a fitting or fit a joint you shouldn't do the job at all , perhaps get someone who knows how to do it and is willing to use the appropriate fitting instead of looking for a flexible pipe to use as a shortcut .i wouldnt want to fit a boiler after the homeowner fitted a pipe hidden within the wall , as you said yourself the condense is acidic.

Only half that reply was to you, the first half ??
My safety valve pipe terminates just beside the flue, I haven't noticed any being terminated just above the ground, assuming we are talking about the same thing?
I never said i wasn't confident to glue a fitting? I'm not looking for a shortcut, I was looking to use the appropriate piping for the job, someone else (a few people) suggested there is a flexible type that is suitable. It makes common sense to use the minimum of joints possible.
I know its corrosive (I've read acidic or alkaline, but corrosive to say the least) thats why I'm looking for the right item.

So how do you suggest you would approach a job that has either no drain fitted, where would you take it? I am curious as to how you would run the drain if the owner wanted it hidden and not just drilled through the wall and then what tacked along the wall and piped into an external drain? what about freezing conditions?
or
A drain fitted but the home owner did it? lets just say they told you they sourced the correct pipe type/material and you could see they were careful enough to blank both ends, are you saying that this is different to a pipe you may fit? and that you would refuse to use it?

Thanks to the people that have offered helpful and constructive advice, the reality is I cannot justify paying someone to fit a pipe that I intend wont be used until my existing boiler is replaced, it just doesn't make sense, I am equally as qualified and competent enough to do it, I'd be foolish not to.

I've come across that document in a slightly different format. I really had planned to do intensive research into getting a boiler that suits my requirements and is going to be as cost effective as possible over the longterm, but at a later date.
Which means I do that now or make a space behind the insulation backed plasterboard or make a space and install suitable flexible pipe that may suit but which can be extracted if it doesn't.

shane0007 wrote: »

You can install a purpose made soakaway. McAlpine make them. I used them whenever there is not a drain close by. Just core drill a 125mm hole in the ground to a depth of 300mm, insert the soakaway and fill with limestone to neutralise the acidic discahrge from the condensate. Job done. They are designed for that exact purpose.

Heatmerchants stock them (Code U47831 : Price €26.07 plus VAT)

Note that all internal condensate pipework should be minimum of 22mm diameter and all external should be minimum 32mm but kept to a maximum length of 3m externally. Ensure all joints are sealed joints internally, as if there is a failure of the trap or water drying out, POC's can be discharged through it. Piped into an open washing maching or dishwater is not acceptable. It must be a sealed joint.

Appreciate the advice, I would prefer an internal drain than an external or a soakway, but its an option I suppose and a lot cheaper than i had thought, If using an internal drain it would definitely be a sealed joint, I didnt realise POC's might be discharged through the condensate line, I assumed there was some kind of separation device/chamber/trap in the boiler that prevented this.
edit, I've actually come across recommendations to use 3/4" which is less than 22mm, the length of the line would be no greater than 2 metres anyway.

shane0007 wrote: »

You will as previously commented, require the 3 bar safety valve piped to within 100mm of ground level externally. This can be brough down internally and then exit at low level to eliminate an eye sore pipe running down the wall. The reason for why your existing pipe is not acceptable is because it that was to discharge when you were walking past it at the point of it discharging, it will be released at minimum 3 bar pressure and more than likely at scalding temperatures. At the existing location, your face will probably take the worst of it. At 100mm from the ground and pointing at the ground, a likelyhood of no injury will occur.

I wasn't sure what the poster was suggesting when they brought up the safety valve, I thought they were trying to suggest that a condensate pipe should be tee'd into it (which to me seemed ridiculous) or merely implying that it drains outside, so why would there be a problem draining a condensate pipe externally.
While it's in a place that isn't convenient to walk past the safety valve discharge pipe, it would be possible to be standing beside it, as this was how the house was constructed as a new build many years ago as part of a large estate and as far as I can see all others are the same (Im not saying that is correct, just that they are that way, not only mine), I've also seen many others that way elsewhere, from that perspective I think I will include a copper pipe down the inside leading to outside but blanked off so nothing crawls in and blocks it and ready to be connected when a new boiler goes in.

These are the reasons i come here for advice as it allows me to plan for what would otherwise be too late/add unnecessary cost to implement easily afterwards.