Random Modding Thoughts...

docentore · 26-11-2011 07:18PM

Use thick wires for your RGH hack, at least 26AWG. Don't use kynar wire.

TouchingVirus · 26-11-2011 09:44PM

docentore wrote: »

Use thick wires for your RGH hack, at least 26AWG. Don't use kynar wire.

How come?

TouchingVirus · 27-11-2011 05:27AM

First slim install complete. Thoughts?

1) Damn, that HANA trace is small, and fragile

2) Boot times are way better than the BB jaspers I've done, nice

docentore · 27-11-2011 11:53AM

TouchingVirus wrote: »

How come?

Random modding thought. With Kynar wire I had problems with another jasper, changing wires for some thicker wires resolved the issue

stanleytli · 27-11-2011 02:45PM

TouchingVirus wrote: »

First slim install complete. Thoughts?

1) Damn, that HANA trace is small, and fragile
2) Boot times are way better than the BB jaspers I've done, nice

For me the worst soldering point, needs big attention,
but we can manage that:rolleyes:

Reamer Fanny · 27-11-2011 07:14PM

stanleytli wrote: »

TouchingVirus wrote: »

First slim install complete. Thoughts?

1) Damn, that HANA trace is small, and fragile
2) Boot times are way better than the BB jaspers I've done, nice

For me the worst soldering point, needs big attention,
but we can manage that:rolleyes:

I see you've soldered to the resistor I used the copper pad to the left

Jimbobjoeyman · 27-11-2011 07:17PM

justryan wrote: »

I see you've soldered to the resistor I used the copper pad to the left

Does it make a difference ?
I was under the impression your not supposed to bridge that

Ahh well the alternate points under the board are much easier to solder to and aren't as fragile so I'll be using them from now on.

Reamer Fanny · 27-11-2011 08:09PM

Jimbobjoeyman wrote: »

justryan wrote: »

I see you've soldered to the resistor I used the copper pad to the left

Does it make a difference ?
I was under the impression your not supposed to bridge that
Ahh well the alternate points under the board are much easier to solder to and aren't as fragile so I'll be using them from now on.

I would say the copper pad is harder will try the resistor on my next Slim

stanleytli · 27-11-2011 08:17PM

Jimbobjoeyman wrote: »

Does it make a difference ?
I was under the impression your not supposed to bridge that
Ahh well the alternate points under the board are much easier to solder to and aren't as fragile so I'll be using them from now on.

It doesn't make any difference, but is safer and less possibility to bridge that pad or lift the pad (recently I had to fix two broken pads & CPU_RST). Some people notice better booting timings with alternate points, but it is really hard to say what is better. So far my slims boots quite well, but in my personal opinion coolrunner was issued to early & is causing too many problems (capasitors, the lenght of blue wire).
I will try maximus stinger next time or XE improve their .jed files.

Jimbobjoeyman · 27-11-2011 09:05PM

stanleytli wrote: »

It doesn't make any difference, but is safer and less possibility to bridge that pad or lift the pad (recently I had to fix two broken pads & CPU_RST). Some people notice better booting timings with alternate points, but it is really hard to say what is better. So far my slims boots quite well, but in my personal opinion coolrunner was issued to early & is causing too many problems (capasitors, the lenght of blue wire).
I will try maximus stinger next time or XE improve their .jed files.

I can attest to faster boot times with alternate points.
I'm using the alternate standby_clk under the board with my big block jasper and it boots instantly 95% of the time.
The other times I have failed boots.
I'm going to wire the 3.3v to the alternate 3.3v later on thats supposed to solve that problem.
It only fails when I turn on and off my 360 a couple of times in a row in quick succession.

Reamer Fanny · 30-11-2011 01:05PM

Wow my Nand X is fast!

Reamer Fanny · 01-12-2011 12:43AM

Not so much a modding thought more a repair thought, just reballed my first Xbox 360 today!

TouchingVirus · 01-12-2011 12:48AM

Nice!

Reamer Fanny · 01-12-2011 12:59AM

It's getting the stress-test right now

wotzgoingon · 01-12-2011 02:00AM

justryan wrote: »

Not so much a modding thought more a repair thought, just reballed my first Xbox 360 today!

Fair play to you. I'd say it was hard enough. What equipment did you use and how much did they set you back??

Reamer Fanny · 01-12-2011 02:04AM

wotzgoingon wrote: »

justryan wrote: »

Not so much a modding thought more a repair thought, just reballed my first Xbox 360 today!

Fair play to you. I'd say it was hard enough. What equipment did you use and how much did they set you back??

I used my achi ir pro sc rework station it took lots of practice but it paid off! The machine cost me €950 I got it off a guy on Adverts.

Jimbobjoeyman · 01-12-2011 03:13PM

justryan wrote: »

I used my achi ir pro sc rework station it took lots of practice but it paid off! The machine cost me €950 I got it off a guy on Adverts.

fair play

I saw you running into a bit of a brick wall with the reattatch over on the cvx forums,
glad you got over it
What turned out to be the problem.
I bet it was something small like flux application or the new GPU chips you were attaching were fluffed.
Ive got a couple of boards that I'm planning to replace the gpu's on just havent got around to getting the new gpu chips yet.
The chips are removed and the pads are cleaned all ready to go

Hot air should be a little easier to manage than ir though.
Just crank up the bottom heat

my awnser to all things bga related

Reamer Fanny · 01-12-2011 04:35PM

Jimbobjoeyman wrote: »

justryan wrote: »

I used my achi ir pro sc rework station it took lots of practice but it paid off! The machine cost me €950 I got it off a guy on Adverts.

fair play
I saw you running into a bit of a brick wall with the reattatch over on the cvx forums,
glad you got over it
What turned out to be the problem.
I bet it was something small like flux application or the new GPU chips you were attaching were fluffed.
Ive got a couple of boards that I'm planning to replace the gpu's on just havent got around to getting the new gpu chips yet.
The chips are removed and the pads are cleaned all ready to go

Hot air should be a little easier to manage than ir though.
Just crank up the bottom heat
my awnser to all things bga related

Yeah the supplier sent me lead free GPUs where I needed lead GPUs but I was generously compensated.

Just did my second reball today or rather GPU replacement it was touch and go as I lifted one pad when extracting the chip but I'd say it was just a ground pad as the Xbox boots up fine.

Reamer Fanny · 03-12-2011 02:17AM

Damn you south bridge, e73 on my third Xbox GPU replacement, time to reflow the SB

Jimbobjoeyman · 03-12-2011 02:49AM

justryan wrote: »

Damn you south bridge, e73 on my third Xbox GPU replacement, time to reflow the SB

You sure its not a missing component near the southbridge before you go putting even more time into it ?

Reamer Fanny · 03-12-2011 02:52AM

Jimbobjoeyman wrote: »

justryan wrote: »

Damn you south bridge, e73 on my third Xbox GPU replacement, time to reflow the SB

You sure its not a missing component near the southbridge before you go putting even more time into it ?

Can't be sure of anything but this Xbox was handled delicately so I doubt it's a missing component, it had the bolt mod on it so it could have warped the south bridge area GPU was replaced perfectly.

Jimbobjoeyman · 03-12-2011 03:08PM

justryan wrote: »

Can't be sure of anything but this Xbox was handled delicately so I doubt it's a missing component, it had the bolt mod on it so it could have warped the south bridge area GPU was replaced perfectly.

Thats the thing with xboxs that have been worked on before by someone else.
I know you handle them delicately but the person who put the bolt mod in more than likely didn't know the first thing about them and could have done anything to it.
For me I only reflow ATM and if they dont work after the second gpu reflow depending on the error and condition of the board I might try the ram.
There comes a time where you just have to call it a day when you have too much time put in to it.

Generally I find I can get 99% of untouched boards working with a simple gpu reflow.
Teched boards generally around the 70% mark.
I find that if they dont work after the first attempt they are not going to work again with out having a big job replacing random components starting with the GPU untill it greens ups.
Just too much hassle

Reamer Fanny · 03-12-2011 04:01PM

Jimbobjoeyman wrote: »

justryan wrote: »

Can't be sure of anything but this Xbox was handled delicately so I doubt it's a missing component, it had the bolt mod on it so it could have warped the south bridge area GPU was replaced perfectly.

Thats the thing with xboxs that have been worked on before by someone else.
I know you handle them delicately but the person who put the bolt mod in more than likely didn't know the first thing about them and could have done anything to it.
For me I only reflow ATM and if they dont work after the second gpu reflow depending on the error and condition of the board I might try the ram.
There comes a time where you just have to call it a day when you have too much time put in to it.

Generally I find I can get 99% of untouched boards working with a simple gpu reflow.
Teched boards generally around the 70% mark.
I find that if they dont work after the first attempt they are not going to work again with out having a big job replacing random components starting with the GPU untill it greens ups.
Just too much hassle

This gives me an excuse to work on the SB, the GPU isn't the only component that can fail due to poor solder.

Jimbobjoeyman · 03-12-2011 04:05PM

justryan wrote: »

This gives me an excuse to work on the SB, the GPU isn't the only component that can fail due to poor solder.

true
but myself, Its always been GPU failures so far for me.
But I'd say your much more high volume than me being in Dublin and all,
so you'd see more strange ones than I would
Your working out of a shop aren't you ?

I'm just tipping away at them at home

TouchingVirus · 03-12-2011 08:51PM

I found myself on Capel St today so I took a quick walk around to Maplins and bought two 68nf ceramic capacitors (last two in stock) and put them on A->GND ...instant booting now

Jimbobjoeyman · 03-12-2011 09:49PM

TouchingVirus wrote: »

I found myself on Capel St today so I took a quick walk around to Maplins and bought two 68nf ceramic capacitors (last two in stock) and put them on A->GND ...instant booting now

...nice

TouchingVirus · 04-12-2011 02:53AM

The alt 3.3v which is taken from the southbridge (J2B1.8 instead of the guide J2B1.7) does improve boot times on both Jaspers I was having difficulty with too. I'll stick with the capacitor, but even without it the boot times are sub-10 seconds and around 50% on the first glitch.

The difference between the two points? When the console is turned off there's no voltage on J2B1.8, which means the coolrunner red LED is off because it has no power. Each power-on is a completely fresh start, and this seems to work better

Reamer Fanny · 04-12-2011 04:38AM

TouchingVirus wrote: »

The alt 3.3v which is taken from the southbridge (J2B1.8 instead of the guide J2B1.7) does improve boot times on both Jaspers I was having difficulty with too. I'll stick with the capacitor, but even without it the boot times are sub-10 seconds and around 50% on the first glitch.

The difference between the two points? When the console is turned off there's no voltage on J2B1.8, which means the coolrunner red LED is off because it has no power. Each power-on is a completely fresh start, and this seems to work better

Some nice findings there, can the same be said for Slim models?

stanleytli · 04-12-2011 11:35AM

TouchingVirus wrote: »

The alt 3.3v which is taken from the southbridge (J2B1.8 instead of the guide J2B1.7) does improve boot times on both Jaspers I was having difficulty with too. I'll stick with the capacitor, but even without it the boot times are sub-10 seconds and around 50% on the first glitch.

The difference between the two points? When the console is turned off there's no voltage on J2B1.8, which means the coolrunner red LED is off because it has no power. Each power-on is a completely fresh start, and this seems to work better

Some SuperMod said, that it's not good idea,
but you right, it does improve boot times.

For starters pin 2 is the wrong choice.. its a serial line from the CPU for Kernel debug, it may have 3v3 on it, but it isnt a power line..
 
Currently, the CR runs off Standby 3v3 at pin 7.. right next to that is a switched 3v3 on pin 8..
 
However.... I would urge caution here. Trios and GliGli were both opposed to using a switches 3v3 supply for this.
The reason being that all the 5 signals are active in standby. The fear is, that if the CPLD has no supply of its own it will leech power from these signals and could potentially damage your 360....
You've been warned ... do as you may

TouchingVirus · 04-12-2011 02:27PM

It's up on the page about Linux/Kernel debugging from J2B1 on Free60.org. They recommend powering a level shifter off standby J2B1.7, or better by using J2B1.8. Seems like the power there is solid enough for kernel debugging...

Random Modding Thoughts...

Comments