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    #92
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 0 ✭ [Deleted User]


    cat-its-beautiful-757604.jpg


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    #93
    bobdole968
    Closed Accounts Posts: 65 ✭✭bobdole968


    i call it the ylod preventor 3000 :D
    all i did was take apart an old modded pc and use the components on the ps3
    i only had to take of the top cover of the ps3 so there is no damage done to it and the fans were put on with a small bit of super glue.
    i used the psu to power the fans. connect the green and black wire to activate the psu. the fan at the back was a hard-drive cooler fan
    all i did was turn the 3 small fans the other way around so it was blowing the hot air out of the ps3.
    the whole setup didnt cost my anything. just find an old pc and build your own ylod preventor 3000.


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    #94
    witnessmenow
    Registered Users Posts: 7,028 ✭✭✭witnessmenow


    Man you got to get that PSU out of there, its sitting on the PS3 psu so i'd imagine they would get a little toasty :P

    http://www.dealextreme.com/p/usb-sata-ide-cable-set-474
    http://www.dealextreme.com/p/molex-4-pin-1-to-3-splitter-power-cable-20cm-length-51811

    Should do the job


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    #95
    bobdole968
    Closed Accounts Posts: 65 ✭✭bobdole968


    the psu isnt drawing that much wattage so it doesnt heat up and there is a fan in the psu itself. no heat problems so far.
    i just didnt want to spend money on it but if i was i would buy a 12v 4+amp dc adapter instead of the pc psu


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    #96
    witnessmenow
    Registered Users Posts: 7,028 ✭✭✭witnessmenow


    Point well made :o


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    #97
    Jimbobjoeyman
    Registered Users Posts: 807 ✭✭✭Jimbobjoeyman


    bobdole968 wrote: »
    IMAGE_005_1.jpg
    IMAGE_006_1.jpg
    IMAGE_007_1.jpg

    Not being smart but what would have been way more effective and alot tidier looking would to have just 12v modded the internal fans.
    The stock fan can cool the gpu and cpu directly which is way more effective than case fans


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    #98
    bobdole968
    Closed Accounts Posts: 65 ✭✭bobdole968


    look at the failure rate of ps3s the stock internal fans are poor at best
    truth be told the 2 side fans were not necessary but the back fan was.
    like a pc the idea is just to suck the hot air out faster even though the cpu/gpu are already cooled.
    i also think adding ps3 usb fans are a bad idea aswell for the motherboard.
    bottom line is i shouldn't have had to do any of this crap Sony did a poor job on the cooling systems of the ps3. and the xbox aint much better.
    theres no way i can justify spending 100s of euros on a water cooling system or whatever thats sonys job.


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    #99
    Jimbobjoeyman
    Registered Users Posts: 807 ✭✭✭Jimbobjoeyman


    The stock fans are poor because sony dont run them even a third as fast as they can run.
    Its the same principal as the 360 12v fan mod.
    Both systems stock fans can run twice as fast if not three times as fast as they already run.
    The faster the fans run the better cooled the system is.
    The stock fans run on full speed will outperform any case fan you can stick on it
    The only downside is its a bit loud.
    If both company's ran there fans a bit faster they wouldn't have have as high a failure rate as they do have


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    #100
    Reamer Fanny
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,828 ✭✭✭Reamer Fanny


    Finally modded my Xbox controller with a USB port, now I just need Splinter Cell and that Memory Card I ordered :D


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    #101
    TouchingVirus
    Registered Users Posts: 8,584 ✭✭✭TouchingVirus


    Painting fun with an original xbox :D


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    #102
    Reamer Fanny
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,828 ✭✭✭Reamer Fanny


    Nice color is a change from the boring black or crystal I like it!


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    #103
    TouchingVirus
    Registered Users Posts: 8,584 ✭✭✭TouchingVirus


    Not quite done yet, need to pick up some green pearlescent or metallic for the non-X bits too. Having fun with it, but it eats paint. Going to look at better options for painting like a hobbyist HVLP setup :D


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    #104
    bluestripe93
    Registered Users Posts: 1,104 ✭✭✭bluestripe93


    Jimbobjoeyman wrote: »
    The stock fans are poor because sony dont run them even a third as fast as they can run.
    Its the same principal as the 360 12v fan mod.
    Both systems stock fans can run twice as fast if not three times as fast as they already run.
    The faster the fans run the better cooled the system is.
    The stock fans run on full speed will outperform any case fan you can stick on it
    The only downside is its a bit loud.
    If both company's ran there fans a bit faster they wouldn't have have as high a failure rate as they do have

    Is that a hardware or software mod on the PS3?,
    And how can it be done?


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    #105
    Jimbobjoeyman
    Registered Users Posts: 807 ✭✭✭Jimbobjoeyman


    the fan mod is a hardware mod
    I dont know too much about the ps3 but google should turn up some good results.
    From what I can gather you splice the ps3 fan power to a 12v wire on the power supply


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    #106
    TouchingVirus
    Registered Users Posts: 8,584 ✭✭✭TouchingVirus


    It's always going to be a tradeoff between temperatures, noise and aesthetics. You either mod your console with a hackjob like that picture with large fans, ruining the aesthetics but keep temps and noise down because the large fans push through a lot of air at low RPM. Or you can keep your aesthetics and do a 12v mod, lowering temps but significantly increasing noise output because the small fans need to run ridiculously fast to achieve the airflow of the big ones.


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    #107
    Reamer Fanny
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,828 ✭✭✭Reamer Fanny


    5800804174_76a2878e31.jpg

    Had a spare PC PSU lying around so took the 80mm fan from it and mounted in my Jasper jtag, it runs at 12v and with the DVD drive removed Freestyle Dash now shows idle temps of about 40c on GPU and 50c on the CPU. I will add some LEDs and sort the gaping hole in the front soon :D


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    #108
    Reamer Fanny
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,828 ✭✭✭Reamer Fanny


    5818527848_66d90c23c6.jpg


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    #109
    Jimbobjoeyman
    Registered Users Posts: 807 ✭✭✭Jimbobjoeyman


    justryan wrote: »
    5818527848_66d90c23c6.jpg
    Very nice ..what make... model... how much it set you back ?
    I thought you had a achi is this for melting solderballs ?
    I got a new toy too
    My t-8280 arrived yesterday aswell :D
    Have a profile put together but the stock clamping system is a POS so Im off to b&q tommorow to put some type of clamping system together


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    #110
    Reamer Fanny
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,828 ✭✭✭Reamer Fanny


    It's called BK6000 got it off circuitspecialistseurope on eBay it's a great all in one machine, with suction tube close to the soldering iron to absorb harmful fumes heats up quick and comes with hot air and desoldering gun too. Cost me €260 shipped with DPD. I've got a decent profile on the achi I never let it finish to 230c in the final step, I just prod the chip very slightly to see if it's floating in step 4 then I can either leave it to cool for reflow, or lift the chip for reballing. What flux you use and thermocouple placement play an important roll, make sure your thermocouples touch both the bottom and top of the board for accurate readings.

    I use the achi to extract the chip/reflow then use the soldering iron on the bk6000 to run a glob of lead solder where the bga sits then I mop up the excess with desoldering braid, I do the same with the bga the tricky part is getting solder balls to sit properly on the bga.


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    #111
    Jimbobjoeyman
    Registered Users Posts: 807 ✭✭✭Jimbobjoeyman


    Ever since I got my t-8280 im finding the chip lifts at 225 whereas my setup with the griddle would only lift at 235.
    I've found if I go above 228 with the t-8280 I get solder bridging and end up with 0020 errors.
    225 is perfect for reflowing though.
    The achi uses the same preheater with just one extra plate so I'd like to know what your peak temp is


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    #112
    Reamer Fanny
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,828 ✭✭✭Reamer Fanny


    Peak temperature on top or bottom? What flux are you using if any? You should always use flux


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    #113
    Jimbobjoeyman
    Registered Users Posts: 807 ✭✭✭Jimbobjoeyman


    justryan wrote: »
    Peak temperature on top or bottom? What flux are you using if any? You should always use flux
    Top temp just curious since the prehaters are the same just yours has an extra plate.
    ATM I'm using kester 979 its really good the solder joints are really shiny afterwards.
    If your not using flux your only going to have dry brittle joints that don't last


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    #114
    Reamer Fanny
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,828 ✭✭✭Reamer Fanny


    I bring it to 240c get amtech tacky flux you will be amazed at the results and how easy it is to lift a chip or reflow just prod the chip like I said near the end of the profile if it gives a little bit shut off your machine and allow to cool if reflowing.


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    #115
    Jimbobjoeyman
    Registered Users Posts: 807 ✭✭✭Jimbobjoeyman


    justryan wrote: »
    I bring it to 240c get amtech tacky flux you will be amazed at the results and how easy it is to lift a chip or reflow just prod the chip like I said near the end of the profile if it gives a little bit shut off your machine and allow to cool if reflowing.
    Where do you get your amtech ?
    I was going to get some but since there are so many fakes I didn't think it was worth buying


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    #116
    Reamer Fanny
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,828 ✭✭✭Reamer Fanny


    Give this a try http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Amtech-NC-559-AS-TF-BGA-Reflow-Reball-Tacky-Flux-10cc-/230624150542?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item35b245440e


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    #117
    TouchingVirus
    Registered Users Posts: 8,584 ✭✭✭TouchingVirus


    CTqsx.jpg


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    #118
    Reamer Fanny
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,828 ✭✭✭Reamer Fanny


    TouchingVirus wrote: »
    CTqsx.jpg

    May take one of those off you if your willing to accept cash in exchange?


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    #119
    TouchingVirus
    Registered Users Posts: 8,584 ✭✭✭TouchingVirus


    But of course, they're not flashed at the minute - I've to hook something up for that over the weekend.

    Drop me a PM :)


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    #120
    docentore
    Registered Users Posts: 1,582 ✭✭✭docentore


    TouchingVirus wrote: »
    CTqsx.jpg

    nice, I started to glitch my jasper, but never had chance to finish it, have most of the wires soldered in, just need to flash olimex board and the CoolrunnerII board.

    Do you might me asking were those expensive?


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    #121
    TouchingVirus
    Registered Users Posts: 8,584 ✭✭✭TouchingVirus


    I paid the going rate for them, £14.95 each. When the QSBs come out I might get them too because they're apparently cleaning the signals so that the glitch gets a better success rate. All in all I can see the JTAG prices going up by about €25-€30 considering the rise in difficulty and the significant rise in cost of hardware.


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