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Heat Pumps - post here.

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,987 ✭✭✭micks_address


    I was taking the flow temp from the flow temp so that wasn't helping.. updated and will see how it looks



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,741 ✭✭✭championc


    1000088258.png 1000088257.png

    I only log one item to feed for each input

    My system - https://emoncms.org/app/view?name=championc&readkey=5e5a2bd11d69740be46a55e1793e551d



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,987 ✭✭✭micks_address


    Got it working I think

    1000036411.png


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,741 ✭✭✭championc


    So the sensor was in the sun for just over an hour, so not the worst I suppose



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,987 ✭✭✭micks_address


    Yes I think I'm going to get one of these fitted over it

    https://amzn.eu/d/04O5JdDP

    Probably overkill.. it won't get much sun in the autumn/winter months anyway

    I was tracking the sun this morning and nearly all of the wall gets sun at some point during the 1.5 hours.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 449 ✭✭Dozz


    Hi all.

    What are peoples thoughts on Mitsubishi Heatpumps (Ecodan R290). I got a quote for supply and install of an 8kw unit and 5 replacement radiators for around €15k

    Thanks



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 411 ✭✭Eleusis


    I have an ecodan and I'm happy with it. However if I had rads, I don't think I would go with it. When I researched this a few years ago, Ecodan's are good at low temps but not so efficient at the high temps needed for rads. Maybe this has changed in newer models though. Not



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,009 ✭✭✭Dr Robert




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,987 ✭✭✭micks_address


    It would depend on what the flow temp design is.. the newer pumps use r290 gas which can run much higher temps but higher temps equals more electricity so ideally you want the lowest temps you can get away with based on your heat loss. We just had a grant Aerona r290 fitted and so far so good but real test will be a winter season



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,741 ✭✭✭championc


    While I get that the UFH surface is likely far larger than that of the the rads, I don't think the system water temperature needs to be massively higher than that needed for UFH

    I have all rads, and my flow temp a month ago was mid 30's

    My SCOP is 4.38



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 70 ✭✭dessertspoon


    I have rads and my average flow temp is 26-28 C.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 359 ✭✭SimpleDimple


    I have a question for a samsung heat pump, i saw advice to get better efficiency you can lower the heat curve to -2degC, and check if that still gets the room up to temp. Can anyone tell me what that setting is called on the samsung/ kodiak system?



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 7,732 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    I agree with @micks_address it really depends on the flow temperature.

    The tipping point for efficiency is the low 30'sc I think, below that r32 has a better cop, but above that r290 does better, COP wise.

    So it's not a case of what's best for radiators, it's what is best for your flow temperature.

    Generally radiators need to run hotter so that's where r290 is used more for radiators.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,741 ✭✭✭championc


    Not sure what you mean, but it's all about having the temperature as low as possible to replace the heat being lost.

    The norm is to take and set the temperatures for the curve at +15 and -5 outdoor temperatures

    Use this graph to select temperatures. If your house is well insulated, then I would start with the temps along the 0.6 line, and lower once per day. If you feel chilly, then bump back up a notch

    1000081599.png


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 449 ✭✭Dozz


    Would a 16kwh solar battery be sufficient to cover the majority of a 8kw heat pump throughout the year barring the colder months?

    Funny question I know as it will depend on usage but am just looking for feed back from users with a similar setup.

    Fill the battery at night on cheap rate and use that to power the HP for as long as possible throughout the day.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,741 ✭✭✭championc


    It really depends on how accurately sized the heatpump was for your house. If oversized, then on an average day, the heatpump could use that alone.

    You need to look at power consumption stats on the heatpump.

    My 5kW was possibly using around 10kWh in Autumn and Spring. My SCOP is 4.38



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 762 ✭✭✭gral6


    I wonder if someone have experience with Panasonic PAW-DHW270W heat pump?

    It works for 5 minutes, then it gives error W.25….

    what could be the reason? Most common, capacitor was replaced already



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 449 ✭✭Dozz


    Thanks @championc

    I am looking at installing an 8kw heat pump so was just wondering if anyone had a similar experience really.

    Contractor has said that the calculated heatloss for my house is 7.7kw



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,987 ✭✭✭micks_address


    If your heat loss is 7.7 then 8kw may be to small. Most heatpumps dont output their stated size power at -2 degrees etc. they can be as much as 25% less. I'm not saying it's not big enough but just be sure. Our heat loss is 5.5 and we went with the grant 9kw unit. It modulates down very well so I don't think we are penalised for being a bit oversize.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,382 ✭✭✭✭Cyrus


    In the dead of the winter a heatpump could use 30-35 units in a day. On average 16kwh should cover you most days but I'd say Dec to Feb you wouldn't



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,741 ✭✭✭championc


    Well I have a 5kW myself which is in the same house size as my neighbour. I have now wrapped mine so I know the 5kW is now oversized and cycling.

    Our houses are around 120m². I have no BER so I cannot give you my HLI.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,741 ✭✭✭championc


    Yes. Think my highest day was about 22kWh this year. Most were in the mid teens in Jan and Feb.

    Hgely dependent on getting a heat curve dialed in



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,455 ✭✭✭newhouse87


    Heavily dependent on size of house and type, bungalow will need more heat then 2 story.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,009 ✭✭✭Dr Robert


    I'm in the early stages of heat pump knowledge gathering with a view to getting a A2W to replace our current oil boiler.

    I also want to replace windows and back sliding door.

    My question is, should I do the windows first before the heat pump? This seems an obvious yes but is it a deal breaker to not do it ?

    Windows are double glazed, 20 odd years old.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,987 ✭✭✭micks_address


    It won't be a deal breaker. We had similar. Decided to do the windows/doors first to triple glazing. It brought our heat loss and hli on Ber to 1.92 which brought it below the 2.2 threshold required for seai technical assessment. Do you have a current ber? Heatpump will work regardless just you might end up having it run more to maintain the heat level you want until you replace the windows.. theres a 3k grant now available for windows and doors which wasn't there when we did ours. Price increases would have probably ate that up anyway



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,009 ✭✭✭Dr Robert


    BER is A3, it was B3 until solar was installed.

    Ok, good to know it's not a deal breaker.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,987 ✭✭✭micks_address


    Do you have the hli from the Ber advisory report?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,741 ✭✭✭championc


    I'm sure that it is an easier choice from oil to A2W than gas to A2W, and the initial consideration must be the cost per kWh.

    If gas is only 10c and electricity is 30c, then even with a COP of 3.5, the savings are negligible.

    Replacing windows will reduce the heat required, so you should be aggressive with sizing a heatpump on the basis that things will only get better. You don't want to size it for the double glazing and then make a change leaving the heatpump oversized.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,009 ✭✭✭Dr Robert


    Year, the sizing of the heatpump is where I'm currently clueless. I'm early on in this journey!



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,009 ✭✭✭Dr Robert




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