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38kWh Ioniq

12324252729

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 7,494 ✭✭✭zg3409


    Ideally scan using a phone app and say soul spy app. Ideally at low % charge such as 20% or 10% when accelerating hard. This may identify specific cells that are struggling. Ideally then try to pull error codes from the car using an app like torque but I found for Hyundai you typically need garage level diagnostic tools to see error codes. You may have a fight on your hands so try get an independent report showing some cell is toast. Then ideally get dealer to duplicate the result by driving the car from say 20% to 0%. There is a chance battery may be ok. If you have not gone down to low % for months then car can get confused as to how low it can go and may show a false battery % and then suddenly drop. I suggest try drive to low % over and over again to see if you can recreate the issue ideally driving up a hill or at full motorway speed. Try take photos and videos as evidence.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,544 ✭✭✭witnessmenow


    I have the car back now. Drove from Galway to ballinasloe without any issues.

    Connolly's waived the fee when I went to collect it. I'm not exactly sure why, I pushed back a little when they said it was 12v but I didn't have a big problem with the fee (or even the price of the 12v) but I certainly wasn't complaining and do appreciate it.

    They charged it to 100% (which by itself would be ~€30 public charging )and even washed it 😅. They also gave me a print out of their battery test print out when I asked to boost my case with halfords.

    The 12v was working enough to open the car etc when I got there, but I had no faith in even the 10km journey to halfords so I took battery out there and brought it in to halfords.

    Halfords wanted to test the battery, but their battery tester leads were "still not back" (wherever they were) so they agreed to replace it.

    A word of warning though, as I've recommended the halfords battery on this thread before:

    He asked what car it was and when I said it was an EV he said he'd replace this one but there would be no more replacements. I did push back a bit on this saying I put the model in when buying the battery and there was no warnings when buying it but he was fairly adamant. I didn't really see the point in continuing a fight about a hypothetical situation down the road when I was getting resolved today, So I left it off.

    Got my wife to throw the battery into the car when we got back so she can replace it in future , it's honestly a 5 minute job even if you don't have a clue. Just need a 12mm socket for the base and a 10mm for the terminals. Loads of room to work too



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 18,873 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    Some good customer service there from Connollys



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,544 ✭✭✭witnessmenow


    For sure, other than getting quotes for a service nearly 2 years ago I have no dealings with Connellys, so they didn't owe me anything.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,781 ✭✭✭✭Oscar_Madison
    #MEGA MAKE EUROPE GREAT AGAIN


    Is there something in all of this around EVs and 12v batteries in general ?



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  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 18,873 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    No, other vehicles allow the HV battery to top up the 12v whenever required e.g. the Kona now does this, can be at any random time when parked



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,544 ✭✭✭witnessmenow


    Hyundai and Kia are known to have weak 12Vs. I didn't suspect for a second it could cause this kind of an issue though



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 282 ✭✭depadz


    did you have a power pack to start the 12v with you? (fellow 38 owner with a yuasa battery!)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,544 ✭✭✭witnessmenow


    i did have it with me alright, but I actually had a multimeter with me and checked the 12v when I broke down and it was 12.5v so I ruled that out as a problem.

    My working theory is maybe the bad 12v caused an incorrect reading on the big battery and I guess I just simply ran out of big battery. But I don't know, maybe it's dodgy big battery related either.

    I suppose I could have used the power pack to try move the car when a fella offered to help to push but I forgot about it as an option, also it might have been in my mams car and not beside me at the the time.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,544 ✭✭✭witnessmenow


    Brought the car to Limerick Hyundai today to be investigated. They are my usual dealer for service etc. When Connolly's said it needed to be rebooked in for next week I said I'd just go to my own dealers instead.

    They had been talking to Connolly's, so might be the reason Connolly's waived the fee between telling me on the phone there was a fee and collecting the car the next day.

    Mechanic rang me and talked through it.

    • They couldn't find any issue with the HV, battery SoH 100%, 0.0v difference between cells. They gave me a print out saying as much.
    • He cant figure a scenario where you'd see that level of limited power without seeing a low battery warning
    • Only faults he could see from what Connolly's logged with Hyundai were 12v related. (they would have been cleared by the time he got it).

    Reading through my posts on the thread, i realized I missed a part, that I needed to jump the car Saturday morning, 12v was completely dead. He said it shouldn't have made a difference because once it's in ready to drive mode everything should have been operated as normal. And the fact I was able to start the car a few times meant the 12v would have charged during the drive up.

    Seperate to the HV issue. He did say that once you've any issues with the 12v he recommended swapping it out. Said the yuasa was a better spec than the one they put in.

    I would have preferred a more definitive answer but I do feel like he had been thorough.

    Maybe it's just a case of if you have to jump the car , don't trust the SoC til you've got it back on the charger.

    But it has to get serviced in few weeks time so I'll run the battery relatively low locally and drive it hard to see if it comes up (not that I was driving hard when it went).

    Thanks for the advice and suggestions over the last few days, was a stressful few...



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,544 ✭✭✭witnessmenow


    Had the car down at 6% this week and everything worked as expected. Low battery message at 14% or whatever it is and a usable turtle mode. Never checked the cell levels though



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,529 ✭✭✭obi604


    Hello, can anyone recommend a 12v battery?

    Its died 3 times in last 6 months. From casual observation, I can see the blue "topping up 12v" light flashing on the dash maybe 10 times a day………which I presume happens as 12v battery is not in a good place and constantly needs to be topped up. Current 12v is only 2 years old though



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,423 ✭✭✭DublinDilbert


    I went into the motor factors and got one, I believe it is just their own brand (napa), has been fine ever since.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,885 ✭✭✭eagerv


    My wife is on her third 12V battery in her Ioniq 5, though reckon at least one was caused by ICCU problems.

    She just went to our local (Co Wexford) tyre place where they changed the last one for €80 in a few minutes.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,190 ✭✭✭joe1303l


    Varta, Bosch or Yuasa would all be decent quality. Some have 5 year warranties which might be worth seeking out if you’re keeping the car long term. Both Hyundai and Kia EV’s seem to be hard on 12v batteries.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,544 ✭✭✭witnessmenow


    The Hyundai mechanic I was talking to recently thought the halfords battery was a good one. But just don't be buying it expecting them to honor the 5 year guarantee.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 119 ✭✭crazyhorse


    Travelling North tomorrow to test-drive and maybe drive home a 2022 38kwh Ioniq with 92k km. Is there anything I need to look out for on test-drive? New brakes and coolant change just carried out under service. Battery SOH is 91%. Is charging straightforward if I am driving it back to Galway- do I need to download any apps, subscribe to services etc?

    Thanks.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,529 ✭✭✭obi604


    which exact battery was it? A Halfords brand or something else



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 1,068 ✭✭✭BigAl81


    Ionity city north would be a good spot for a charge. Tap to pay, cheaper if you set up apps etc, but will do for tomorrow.

    Download PlugShare app, this shows all chargers. Filter by locations with at least 4 chargers. Do not stop at locations with one charger (Castlebellingham / Lusk etc).

    The car charges slowly so allow about 20 to 30 mins to charge each time.

    Galway plaza is another good spot.

    Be pessimistic and assume 100% charge is 220kms of range and plan your charging stops accordingly.

    Get set up on ESB ECars app.

    They're a lovely car

    Good luck!

    Save boards.ie by subscribing: https://subscriptions.boards.ie/



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,544 ✭✭✭witnessmenow




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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,529 ✭✭✭obi604


    Thank you. Not sure if the Halfords staff installed if for you or not?

    Are Halfords staff generally ok to do the install or is it more tricky with car having to be coded etc with new battery?

    Post edited by obi604 on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,190 ✭✭✭joe1303l


    At one point, Halfords wouldn’t work on EV’s so you might not have the option. I’m sure every branch is different but they’re generally not the most competent anyway.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,529 ✭✭✭obi604


    thanks. So might be better to buy better in Halfords and get mechanic to install.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,544 ✭✭✭witnessmenow


    Its honestly a 5 minute job, just need a 10mm socket for the holder and 8mm socket for the terminals. Doesn't need to be coded or anything.

    Look up any video about changing a battery , but basically take the negative (black with a - ) lead first and then the positive (red with a +) swap the battery and then connect positive followed by the negative



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,529 ✭✭✭obi604


    Noted. I might give it a go so. Always just worry about coding car after or issues but seems like re coding etc not needed.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,544 ✭✭✭witnessmenow


    I talked my wife through putting the new one in the last day and she'd be happy enough to do it next time. She'd be relatively handy but not too unlike myself, doesn't really know anything about cars. One bit of advice is when you connect the negative terminal onto the new battery it will spark a small bit when it first touches, its normal.

    I changed out my mams battery over christmas on her Ford kuga and it was a serious pain in comparison to the ioniq, you have to remove and airbox and fold down other trim to slide the battery out. the Ioniq the battery is there unobstructed with loads of room to work with.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,544 ✭✭✭witnessmenow


    Did you buy yesterday? How did you get on getting home?

    I drove from Dublin to Ballinasloe yesterday and it wasnt great on power, but I drove from ballinasloe to Galway today and it was absolutely awful with a strong wind and rain against me most of the way. It really highlighted how untrustworthy the GOM is on the Motorway.

    I travelled 62KM using 31% battery, at that rate of usage I would have only had ~140km of range left, GOM happily reporting 175km



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,885 ✭✭✭eagerv


    Probably the most important purchase for any Ioniq is a battery booster pack. Missus has a Nocco boost, always in car and used twice.

    Must remind her to charge it..🙂



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,529 ✭✭✭obi604


    ok, good to hear. I will give it a go, it seems relatively straight forward.

    fair play to your wife changing a battery over the phone!!!

    Post edited by obi604 on


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,529 ✭✭✭obi604


    My 12v battery has died 3 times in 6 months. I have a booster………………but I guess its probably just time for a new battery at this stage (current battery only about 2 years old though)

    Post edited by obi604 on


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