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First time deck builder questions

  • 10-03-2026 09:10PM
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,315 ✭✭✭


    Replacing a deck that was put down (about 15yrs ago) in a house I moved into.

    Going with a composite deck board on top. Comfortable with taking the job on buts have some questions so I don't make any mistakes.

    Joists are going to be Pressure Treated 9x2s. I have read about corrosion between zinc/galvanising and PT timber. I don't want to put something down that's going to fail on me.

    1)What type of fixings should I use? (Screws/Nails, Galvanised/Steel/Other?)

    2) What type of joist hangers should I use? (Galvanised/S. Steel/Other).....I need joist hangers due to space constraints and can't fix joists in from the back side if you get me

    3) Do I need to treat the cut ends of joists, and if so, with what?

    4) Should I use joist tape on the top of the joists, to prevent moisture ingress when screwing down boards?

    Would love to hear from others in the know and with a bit of experience in this area.

    Thanks in advance



Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 30,525 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    Opinions and approaches will differ because there are cheap-good ways and expensive-good ways to achieve things.

    For instance, I've used double-threaded stainless Spax screws for my hardwood decking. I could have probably used partially threaded screws instead, particularly since I had to pre-drill the decking boards to stop the hardwood from splitting. But the double threads give a bit more security and possibly prevent water ingress through the hole into the joist below. Is it worth it? Don't know. I also could have used cheaper screws - even the Wirox-coated Spax screws are significantly cheaper than stainless. I've previously used thinner, cheaper green deck screws from the builders providers with treated softwood decking and they lasted longer than the decking.

    I wouldn't be generally concerned about fastener corrosion if you're using stuff designed for outdoor use.

    A big factor is keeping structural timber out of wet ground contact. You can use adjustable plastic risers, DPC strips, well-drained angular gravel. Just decide on you approach based on the characteristics of your site and execute it well.

    Joist hangers aren't strictly necessary - you could probably get away with toe nailing. But I've used Simpsons hangers and they're great. Whatever you pick make sure they're the correct dimension - don't base it on nominal timber dimensions - measure the timber you're buying and get the exact fit.

    Treating cut ends is a good idea, most important for exposed vertical ends that will have water pooling on or under them, although you should try to avoid that wherever possible. I've use Protim before.

    Joist tape is a good idea too but don't go overboard. I've seen some mad priced stuff used by sponsored Youtubers before. A roll of DPC will go a long way, you're just looking to shed the water off.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 10,141 ✭✭✭✭10-10-20


    The green deck-screws with philips heads that I used were a nightmare, they kept binding and needed excessive torque to set. I'd go for torx in all situations.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,315 ✭✭✭Sleamhain


    Thanks for the replies, joist hangers are required in some spaces as it's an enclosed area and I haven't got access to toe nail.

    Im all ready to go now for starting this weekend.

    Just had the deck delivered and it's fairly warped at the ends. I'm going to let it settle and see what it looks like in a day or two once unpacked.

    Is this normal for composite (Trex brand) - I'm not familiar with this stuff to know the tolerances....seems like it might be hard to rectify.

    As once I start cutting it there is no going back, so wondering should I send it back if no good and go back to a timber board!?

    IMG_20260323_103838.jpg IMG_20260323_103907.jpg IMG_20260323_103918.jpg


  • Administrators Posts: 56,306 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭awec


    Send that back.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,315 ✭✭✭Sleamhain


    That was my initial thought too, but is this definitely not normal? Once fastened down will it right it self again?



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  • Administrators Posts: 56,306 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭awec


    Composite can warp but I wouldn't accept these warped lengths.

    Screwing it down might fix some of it but unlikely to fix all of it, particularly the second photo where the warping is in the middle of the length.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,315 ✭✭✭Sleamhain


    So the Trex is being returned. Manufacturer told me to send it back when I sent them pictures!

    I've gone for Ecowood timber deck boards from Timber Ireland instead.

    Its coming along nicely though, sub frame almost finished, a few little jobs to finish it off tomorrow and then ready for laying boards.

    Undecided as to whether is would use butyl tape on the top of the joists or not. Is it worth using or not, will it trap moisture?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,315 ✭✭✭Sleamhain


    IMG_20260330_161141.jpg IMG_20260330_161154.jpg IMG_20260330_161206.jpg

    A few progress pics!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 10,141 ✭✭✭✭10-10-20


    Butyl or strips or DPM all the way. If it's an option to use strips of DPM you could make them wider than the joists and then fold them to lie over the top of the joist and flare out each side, providing a drip relief. Also stick some DPM under any wooden parts which are contacting concrete, soil or stone.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,315 ✭✭✭Sleamhain


    It's only in intact with a row of flat concrete blocks laid all around the perimeter. Not sitting on stone or soil anywhere.

    I thought about DPM under it but then I didn't do it as I just figured it was somewhere for rain water to pool onwhen it drips down to that level.

    I could still get it under at this stage if needed



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