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Repair laminate ideas

  • 03-03-2026 07:11PM
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,908 ✭✭✭


    Hi

    If I don't care about the finish look what the best repair to stop this getting worse ?

    Carefully cut off the frayed pieces …

    Then put several coats of yacht varnish (I Have some)

    Or

    Use some epoxy

    Or

    Super glue and bicarbonate of soda

    Or … an idea you have ?

    Thanks

    Screenshot_2026-03-03-16-57-07-984-edit_com.miui.gallery.jpg


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,627 ✭✭✭smuggler.ie


    Is this water damage aftermath? water/moisture will continue to "swell" the board(s) and under traffic there always will be risk to chip further, not to mention potential injuries.
    you'd need to protect it from moisture seeping in.
    There are wax sticks you can buy , they not really for such big damages, but easy to apply and finish to "smooth" surface. See if it suites



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,908 ✭✭✭worded


    Its an attic conversion and there is a bit of a belly on the floor. Don't believe its moisture related

    Its private residents so liability not an issue

    As I don't care about the finish I'm thinking a resin.of some sort

    Also super glue and bicarbonate of soda is super strong

    Just want to make it smooth and not a trip danger

    I wonder do those wax sticks you mentioned will dry to a tough hard solid



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,575 ✭✭✭tabby aspreme


    Wax sticks are more suitable for small repairs and wouldn't be hard enough for a big repair on a floor, neither would shellac sticks which are harder, epoxy resin would probably be the best solution



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,627 ✭✭✭smuggler.ie


    As said, wax not for such big damages, but cheap DIY. Its not "candle" wax, much harder.
    !!Be informed, it might be impossible/difficult to use other materials after wax use as it penetrates MDF deep and wont allow adhesion!!

    If you think you can achieve "good" finish with epox/superglue/other resin, perhaps good/better, but… i gather this is joint between two boards, "flexing" boards.
    Hard materials tend to crack/chip on flex. Don't have experience on repairing repaired epox/superglue/other resin - as for wax, you just re-heat to melt and top-up if needed.
    In any case, wont be perfect and you know it.

    Alternative
    Remove chipped parts and seal to prevent MDF sucking moisture. Introduce mat/carpet as decorative item to room design to cover-up.
    Liability to yourself - quite painful to get laminate splinter to your bear foot/toe.
    On second thought, trip hazard is not due to damaged board, its the bulge and wax nor resins wont eliminate that

    Perhaps someone will have better suggestions.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,466 ✭✭✭Deregos.


    I'd use this Ronseal two pack filler for these types of repairs.

    1000035655.jpg

    It's like Isopon but much easier to sand. Make sure to cut back and super glue down any loose flappy edges, and vacuum the damaged area before doing any filling or sanding. You'll need to fill and sand the void a couple of times to get it perfect. Then, If you're feeling artistic, once its shaped,sanded smooth, grab a small brush and using thin washes of artists acrylic colour, try to imitate the missing patches of woodgrain before sealing the area with something like this.

    1000035656.jpg

    This short video uses a similar method that I'm on about to repair a floor.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,908 ✭✭✭worded


    That looks like the business.

    I was going to make a dog's dinner of it until I saw this



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,908 ✭✭✭worded


    Instead of this Crystal clear would I get away with yacht varnish ? I have lots of it. Doesn't have to look 100 % professional

    17725794060253099473487115435796.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,466 ✭✭✭Deregos.


    You could, but yacht varnish is generally a slower drying, oil based, glossy finish that tends to yellow over time, so I cant say it'll match in that well with the rest of the laminate. Whereas, something like the Crystal Clear stuff is less problematic as it dries instantly, doesn't yellow and is less likely to shred off the floor from walking.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,908 ✭✭✭worded


    Progress - very good

    That Ronseal is great but it's a battle to open the tin! Tiny space to prise it open.

    * Not suitable for flooring board gaps between planks it says. Mine was on one board so N/A to me

    I put masking tape either side of the target area

    Decided to put a lip (doubled.its thickness) on some Gorilla tape and use it as a max height guide - see photo. It worked like a treat

    Sanded with an oscillating sander head

    ** Wondering what paint to use to try blend the filler with the boards. This is only a temp solution before I replace boards or out a carpet over it in a few years.

    IMG_20260308_141001.jpg IMG_20260308_142721.jpg

    Finished result. Very smooth and seems very solid. Was rock hard within 30 min. Great product

    I've to paint or I may just spray it with clear spray as suggested



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,418 ✭✭✭Dr_Colossus


    Rather than the wax sticks these are quite good to colour/stain/repair the floor now that it has a solid base:



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,466 ✭✭✭Deregos.


    ** Wondering what paint to use to try blend the filler with the boards. This is only a temp solution before I replace boards or out a carpet over it in a few years

    Well done on the filling job 👍

    Get small tubes of acrylic white, yellow ochre and also one of raw umber. Use little bits of each to make thin washes of the colours on the laminate using an old saucer or something similar, then have a mess around with a small brush to imitate the grain. If it looks awful, simply sand it off and try again. You'll get it looking okay soon enough, gently dry it with a hairdryer and spray lacquer to protect it.



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