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Water gets far too hot in my new place, and there's far too much of it. What to do?

  • 17-02-2026 08:48PM
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 603 ✭✭✭


    PXL_20260217_090859960.jpg PXL_20260217_090911873.jpg

    This is the setup.

    If I leave it on overnight, the water gets super hot and there's so much I never use even as much as 50% of it.

    Is there any way to reduce the temperature of time for which the water heats up, without actually changing out that timing box?

    A thermostat that was auto kill the heating when the water gets to a set temp?



Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,031 ✭✭✭✭Jim_Hodge


    Why do you leave it on overnight?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 5,758 ✭✭✭blackbox


    If those are standard immersions they will have adjustable thermostats under the covers. Isolate the electrical supply before removing the cover.

    Sometimes these are adjusted in the opposite direction to you what you might expect so be prepared to experiment.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 1,622 ✭✭✭denismc


    As the other poster said, there should be adjustable thermostats on your immersion. Ideally they should be set between 55-65 degrees.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 603 ✭✭✭GalaxyRyder


    Thanks. Just for a noob, you're referring to the day/night timer box, remove that cover?

    A-I mention a thermostat may be on the boiler.

    And yes, safety first I'll hit the breaker before I touch it.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 5,758 ✭✭✭blackbox


    No, not the timer/controller - the actual heaters on the tank.

    If you're not experienced with electrical work you might be best to leave it to someone who is.



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  • Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators Posts: 4,875 Mod ✭✭✭✭Tree


    Can you just use a shorter timer time? Have it come on for an hour before you get up?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,210 ✭✭✭Escapees


    Two options...

    1. Reduce the temperature setting of the thermostat on the lower tank heating element
    2. Switch off the timer controller and just manually switch it on in the morning for the desired duration using the boost dial

    Those timer controllers are archaic in nature and come on for a preprogrammed, non-changeable period during the early hours of the morning to take advantage of off peak rates. They also heat the whole tank whereas the boost control dial just heats the top half. If you are up anyway before 8am, then the boost control will be using off peak electricity till that time.

    If you own the place, would strongly recommend changing out the timer controller for something more modern and intuitive.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,664 ✭✭✭lucalux


    I have one of these and it comes on for 5 hours, no setting it for less time

    I have to manually switch it on, but using the boost it doesnt get hot enough for me

    have to wake up and wait around for an hour for water to get heated. Temp is set to 65⁰C on the element

    pain in the arse those things, in this day and age!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 160 ✭✭Diddly Squat




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 603 ✭✭✭GalaxyRyder


    In the picture of the tank, I can't see the thermostat?

    I will leave it to a tradesman, but just out of curiosity?



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,664 ✭✭✭lucalux


    The 2 plastic round caps on the tank cover the thermostat controls. theres a screw to remove them

    Then theres a dial with the temp settings in Celsius. turn with a flat instrument.

    often theres a seal youre not supposed to break over the dial

    Obviously isolate power before going near it



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,664 ✭✭✭lucalux


    17713692877558223696029016096825.jpg

    under the cover usually looks like this. usually set to 65C



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 38,138 ✭✭✭✭odyssey06


    Due to risk of legionella it is advised water should be heated to at least 60 degrees. Maybe yours has been set very high though.

    https://www.hse.gov.uk/healthservices/legionella.htm

    Also worth double checking your electricity plan, is meter setup for day night - are you actually being charged less for this 'off peak' timer use. There's a bargain alerts thread where you can get advice on that.

    "To follow knowledge like a sinking star..." (Tennyson's Ulysses)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,108 ✭✭✭✭ted1


    replace the controller with a modern time clock and ensure there a sink/ bath option


    sink will turn on just the top one. Are you sure that that is not a second switch ?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,343 ✭✭✭MrCostington


    Hi, I have the exact same setup.

    As mentioned you have two controls you can adjust, but if you are not comfortable with electric maybe get a pro as both involve opening things up.

    1. in your tank you have two elements, the bottom is for night rate electric and the top is the boost during daytime (99% sure of this but small chance it's the other way round). If you remove the metal covers you will see the thermostat control. This will set the max temp the water will reach, assuming the timer supplies power long enough. So you would adjust the bottom one to set the night heating. As mentioned be sure to isolate the power, and pull the fuse too (if one or the trip switch) to be sure as there is a high risk of touching the metal cover to a live connector as you remove it
    2. The E7 timer sets when power is supplied to the element (via the main night rate timer and the boost control). The min is 4 hours. What I did was to have it come on the last four hours of the night so 4am to 8am in winter. Here is the details from the manual, you can get this from a search, but PM me if you want a copy. Again, this involves opening the timer up and exposing the live cables!
    e7timer.png


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,210 ✭✭✭Escapees


    R point

    Re: point 2 above, I wouldn't bother even going there. It's unlikely to be set to anything longer than the 4 hours and, even if it is, the tank will have completely heated by then anyway and therefore there won't be much extra electricity required to keep it hot.

    The first point is the key one to focus on. And rather than working with a terribly designed timer controller (like the devi-reg devices produced in this country!), just get a basic or modern one put in instead.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 603 ✭✭✭GalaxyRyder


    I turned off the main breaker on the fuse box, then the "immersion" breaker.

    Put on rubber gloves just to be extra safe (unsure if they actually do anything), removed the lower most cover on the tank.

    emersion switch.jpg

    I rotated this from the position it was in to something lesser, about 60% of what it was.

    Sealed it back up and re-engaged the breaker switch.

    I'll gauge the temp of the water tomorrow to see if it's about right?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,210 ✭✭✭Escapees


    Good job, especially in terms of the safety precautions you took. Fingers crossed.

    The assumption here of course is that an anticlockwise rotation reduces the set temperature, but this is generally the case. Incidentally, these thermostats can fail and this often results in them not cutting out at all when a set temperature is reached, resulting in dangerously hot water (plus a lot of loud hissing noise when the immersion is on!). I'm presuming this isn't the real issue in your case!!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 603 ✭✭✭GalaxyRyder


    Going to have to try this next as well, though A-I mentions they internal time "cam adjustment" isn't intended from non-electricians to change?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,343 ✭✭✭MrCostington


    Sorry just seeing this.

    It's probably the same level of difficultly as setting the thermostat, but you do have to open the timer, and it is a bit fiddly. I did it myself, but I have a background in electronics, so I would say if you're not confident, get an electrician in. Maybe take the opportunity to change it to a more modern timer that you can adjust from the front panel.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 603 ✭✭✭GalaxyRyder


    Think the main difference is the thermostat on the boiler was labelled on my breaker box so was easy to kill without turning off everything.

    I'll just have to hit the main switch to kill the timer as I can't seem to isolate which breaker controls it.

    It sounds straight forward, just prioritizing safety in that any live supply should be killed before opening.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,343 ✭✭✭MrCostington


    Yes definitely do that, and double check it's off even after doing that (try to boost it). I did mine many years ago, but pretty sure you will be working very near the cables.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 41,277 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    It's funny that nobody mentioned that the top immersion element is leaking.

    I'm partial to your abracadabra
    I'm raptured by the joy of it all



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 603 ✭✭✭GalaxyRyder


    If I was getting an air to air heat pump, but wanted to upgrade the water heating system, would that simply involve a replacement boiler or how would it work?

    Curious what the SEAI grants are for water heating specifically.



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