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Very high kwh usage for 1 person?

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,279 ✭✭✭bog master


    Just for reference-single male in 2 bed cottage-retired ie home all day.

    oil heat

    freezer in shed-fridge-cooker 9 yrs old, all bulbs led, electric shower, washing machine, pc, 55" telly, high end stereo, cpap machine for sleep aopnea.

    Weekly usage up to 2024 averaged 60 units. Have done weekly readings going back years.

    Replaced stereo amp-huge draw on standby and bought air fryer Dec 2024.

    Weekly average now 40 units per week.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 10,641 ✭✭✭✭893bet


    While it looks like the immersion is the culprit the usage looks normal enough assuming it’s a 3kw.

    Suggest

    1. Leaving water tank full cool overnight
    2. Swith everthing off in the place and leave for 3 hours to give baseline
    3. Return and swith immersion on and leave again.
    4. Return in 1 or 2 hours and swit h off and review data


    The first hour should show an extra 3kw use.

    The 2nd hour might show less if the water has reached temp.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 545 ✭✭✭pjdarcy


    What rates are you currently paying OP? If you download your latest bill from electric Ireland, you should see them shown like this

    image.png


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,557 ✭✭✭phormium


    I have a tank in the hotpress, sitting on a shelf old style, attached to the side of it is my immersion, it's not in the tank as such as I think some are (not a plumber/electrician), it's a thing like a little cannister and it's what heats when I turn on the immersion switch.

    Within 5 minutes I have enough roasting hot water to wash the sink of dishes from yday, you wouldn't hold your hand under hot tap! So I'd imagine that;s more than enough for face wash etc too. I can leave it on longer and more of the tank heats and I regularly do when grandkids are here as they like baths. Now you wouldnt have a very full bath or it can also be used to get enough hot water to have a shower in the one that works off the tank, it's a pumped shower so uses a good bit. I don't use it for that purpose that much as have the electric shower but it does get used.

    My original system is over 35 yrs old and the tank has been replaced once to an insulated one and this immersion thingy has been replaced as well in fairly recent years but it's the same as the previous one, think the original tank had the immersion in it. Anyway any chance you can get something like that installed as I don't even have that sort of usage cost from fairly similar immersion use, it's on every day but seldom for longer than minutes for the sinkful use.

    Someone in those professions might know exactly what it is I have installed!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 41,258 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    Not sure if the OP is renting but if so, the tenant should not be getting anyone in to fix wiring or any fixed electrical item, it's not their wiring. That's the landlord's job.

    Unlikely that moving off a 24h tariff would save the OP money. Need to take standing charge and higher daytime rate into account. No EV charging at night, etc. to take advantage of the lower night rate.

    I'm partial to your abracadabra
    I'm raptured by the joy of it all



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,206 ✭✭✭Escapees


    I don't think there's really any 'culprit' at the end of the day. It looks like the OP is being billed correctly for the electricity they are using. Even if the timer for the immersion is turning it on for longer than it should, the extra heated water should keep fairly warm because of the insulated tank and therefore is not really wasted or lost. That said, it is a good idea as suggested to have the timer unit replaced as this will allow you to use night saver off-peak electricity rates to heat the tank. An interesting 'out there' possibility is that there is a hot water leak somewhere, which is emptying the tank over time and requiring complete reheating. But I think we've spent enough time on this thread with suggestions like these and at the end of the day the reality is that everything is simply what it appears to be. A key thing here is that the apartment heating is electrical rater than oil or gas, so this will also contribute to bills.

    Incidentally, I noticed that the OP's cooking uses a bit of electricity. Am guessing a hob/ring or two is left on for almost an hour. If so, there is generally scope to turn off the heat when cooking pasta or rice once it comes to the boil, and likewise when frying after 15 mins once everything's browned (just cover the pan then so that steaming can cook anything through). But these are just little savings - definitely check the fridge model for efficiency and consider turning up the temperature by setting it to a lower number on the temperature setting dial. It's only in summertime when the room is warm that you generally need to turn up the dial.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 711 ✭✭✭eusap


    Can you post a picture of your fuse board? i would highly recommend buying an "efergy energy monitor" and then you can see in real time the energy usage. But need a picture of the fuse board to see if it will fit



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,697 ✭✭✭batistuta9


    a Willis heater they're called. perfect for the scenario you've described.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,103 ✭✭✭✭ted1


    the sink/bath option is when there are 2 elements, it looks like there is only 1 element.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,206 ✭✭✭Escapees


    Both a bath and sink immersion element use the same power, just the former heats the whole tank versus half the tank. I would say it's likely the OP has a dual element immersion tank from the picture, with just one of the elements shown.

    Edit: The left-hand side of the timer/controller in the OP's case is presumably to activate the bath element during off-peak times while the right-hand side is essentially an immediate boost function that activates the sink element.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,592 ✭✭✭Kalimah


    I had a quick look at a couple of figures on Bonkers.ie. Your electricity usage is about 25% lower than the national average it seems. Bonkers has a great table of how much each appliance costs to run. It says basically if it makes things hot in a short time it costs a lot. Think kettles, immersion, tumble dryer etc.

    It’s very useful. Have a look!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,085 ✭✭✭Rocket_GD


    Yes but the national average household isn't one person in a 1 bed apartment that the OP says is cold and not heated during the winter.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,535 ✭✭✭✭rob316


    Semi D - 2 adults and kids, house is lit up like a christmas tree constantly, oil heating going, immersion, dryer, washing machine going all day, my last bill for 2 months was €289. Something definitely wrong with yours, hope you get sorted, no way to live.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,592 ✭✭✭Kalimah


    Yes absolutely! I had a look at my own usage based on the national average and its slightly above. I have a 4 bed detached house so no surprise. I think even using 25% less than the average,particularly in a small apartment, should give you a reasonably comfortable existence.
    That’s not the case here.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,627 ✭✭✭smuggler.ie


    I would not like that fridge. Course its model/size dependent, but still

    Per your estimation 60-70W per hour would account for 1.44-1.68kWh per day - might correspond to 10d absence in September2025 period usage

    I have 356 liter net-capacity Fridge(234l)/Freezer(122l). Its not the "best", more than 6 year old model.
    During last 22 h it was used as normal, no fresh food loaded(!this is also important factor!)

    mind - my kitchen is >20°C 24/7 due to solid fuel range/cooker with backboiler. This, as you realize, will have affect to power consumption to restore "cold" due to "loss" once fridge opened when needed.

    Since last night i have it on "meter plug" - metered run duration ~22:00h now
    consumption shown is 0.73kWh - this translate to 0.033kW (33W) use an hour
    Wmax=156W(highest draw during this 22h period) - correspond to 160w rating on the fridge
    Stand by(compressor not running) = 0.5W

    Compare to 60-70w estimated on OP's fridge, in 15°C ambient temp apartment, when no one is opening fridge door for 10 days. It "leaks" badly. This without knowing OP's FF model/size/specs

    I do realize that in rented apartment OP wont be replacing FF , nor could demand from landlord .
    It is what it is, "normal" kWh consumption in the full-electric apartment.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,804 ✭✭✭JVince


    Looks like you have a smart meter. Easy switch to day/off peak. Easy to time immersion and washing machine to before 8am.

    If a single element immersion at 3kw, it will need to be on for an hour (45c a day off peak rate), but it will give sufficient warm water in the evening if washing up and will only need a boost if wanting a shower.

    Get the timer fixed and switch plans (and supplier) and you are back to normal usage

    €129 for timer + installation from these guys https://www.gasworks.ie/services/immersion-heaters/ most should be similar



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,627 ✭✭✭smuggler.ie


    Every property different, user habits as well.
    yours is not to compare - i am pretty sure your oil heating run through HW tank and even if you use immersion, is just to "top-up" (and i strongly advice not to, where possible,as electricity is way more expensive €/kWh than other fuel sources)

    your €289 power bill does not account for oil cost that was used directly or indirectly in heat/HW produce.

    IF you want to compare , to some degree, all energy sources consumed, including oil/solid/other, should be converted into kWh and price for every kWh recalculated and summed.
    This still leaves significant "fault" margin due to unknown/different insulation of building/furnace/pipework/appliances/etc



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,697 ✭✭✭batistuta9


    the usage will stay the same, cost may go down but you'll be left micro managing everything else, washing machine etc. & oven usage your not going to change.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,804 ✭✭✭JVince


    I think its been agreed that the usage is not crazy high. 200kwh per month in winter months. Its the high bills.

    Putting the immersion on for an hour in the morning will reduce the need for an evening boost assuming the tank is well insulated. So low unit rate and less need for a boost

    OP seems to be on a non discounted tariff, so likely paying close to 40c a unit when a couple of minutes switching supplier and choosing peak/off peak rate would see substantial savings.

    Your not "micro managing" - a replacement timer on the immersion allows it to be set once and forgotten about. Far easier than the current need to click it on every morning and wait for it to heat up.

    Most washing machines have a 2, 4, 8 hour delay option. Again, its pressing one button (and choosing a 45 min wash which is good enough for almost anything) and timing it to go on as you wake. Exceptionally easy to do and get into the habit.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 29 HatCat


    OP here.

    So the response from my letting agency was that they won't be sending out an electrician to check things on the grounds of my usage, and that I am welcomed to arrange one at my own cost.

    In regards to immersion heater - I did a bit of an experiment yesterday. I wrangled the timer into some cooperation, and set it to heat for an hour (by activating the little 15min interval pieces on the clock). An hour later I had warm, but not hot water. The shower I had was rather miserable. Meanwhile the boost alone gives me hot water in about 30min (I've been ONLY using boost all this time). Is this normal, is the boost option just that much more powerful, or is something amiss here?

    Also, if I heat up water in the morning it doesn't remain hot until the afternoon. I generally have plenty of hot water left in the morning after washing my face/brushing my teeth, but then I am left with less-than-hot water by the time I wash my dishes at lunch. Would that mean the tank is not insulated enough, or is losing heat some other way?

    Since I'll have to arrange a professional at my own expenses if I want to have this double checked - would you recommend an electrician or a plumber?



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 38,137 ✭✭✭✭odyssey06


    @HatCat

    The timer on the immersion is clearly dodgy - that should be what you report to the Letting Agency and let them sort it out. I would see that as a fixture \ fitting and not a tenant's responsibility to resolve. You shouldn't have to be 'wrangling' anything.

    "To follow knowledge like a sinking star..." (Tennyson's Ulysses)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,206 ✭✭✭Escapees


    As mentioned already, the control to the right is for boosting/heating the hot water during peak times by heating the top half of the tank (sink). The left timer control is used generally to take advantage of off-peak electricity rates during the night and it looks like this heats the whole tank (bath), but obviously at a much slower rate.

    For your current needs where you turn on the immersion on demand, you should be using the right-hand control. It will get you warm-to-hot water quickly. Ideally though you'd use the timer on the left-hand side to heat the whole tank during the night at a night-saver rate and not need to boost at all during the day at peak rates.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,206 ✭✭✭Escapees


    Just to re-emphasize, as already mentioned in a previous post, your immersion tank looks to have 2 heating elements. The lower one is for heating the whole tank where you need a lot of water for say a bath, while the upper one is for heating a half tank where you don't need as much water.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 38,137 ✭✭✭✭odyssey06


    To heat a full tank should take what, 2-3 hours on immersion timer (aka bath) setting?

    Need to sort the dodgy timer though before being able to rely on day \ night rates.

    When I first moved 2 years ago in it was set to heat up the water at certain times and for a certain amount of minutes, but it ended up stuck on "on" for way longer than it was set to, and at the wrong times. So I ended up relying on the boost button. 

    "To follow knowledge like a sinking star..." (Tennyson's Ulysses)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 4,250 ✭✭✭MacDanger


    OP, if I were you, I'd get back on to the letting agency and tell them that the timer is faulty and needs to be replaced.

    Assuming it's not losing a massive amount of time though, switch to a new electricity plan where you get half-price rate from 11am-8am and then set your timer to come on from say 5-7am which should give you enough hot water for most of the day and eliminate you having to put it on again in the evening.

    Depending on what slippage is on the timer until it gets replaced, you'll need to reset it every so often so that the 5-7am window on the timer doesn't move past 8am actual time but that should be reasonably doable



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,557 ✭✭✭phormium


    I'd say it would be cheaper boil a kettle for the morning face wash and dishes than use the immersion. Fine if you need it for the shower, presume there is no electric shower? Would you be allowed have one fitted, might be more economic at this stage.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,627 ✭✭✭smuggler.ie


    Re HW temperature drop over time.
    From your image, tank seem to be standard, foam insulated - most of time sufficient
    However, unclear if HW(and CW) pipework is insulated, not only in the hotpress, but in the walls/ceilings as well(unlikely).

    Distance from tank to sink is also factor, as un-insulated pipes will radiate heat out - effectively working as rads behind walls/ceilings, longer the pipe run - bigger the radiation surface / bigger loss



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,103 ✭✭✭✭ted1


    ………….



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