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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 456 ✭✭mjatkey


    Get a couple of 3Kw or 4Kw rectifiers connected also and get as much energy into them that you can if you are on an EV plan.

    🌞 6.96kWp PV System. West Dublin🌞



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 60,760 ✭✭✭✭unkel


    I wish I could draw more, I am utterly and totally maxed out in what I can legally draw from the grid, trust me 😂

    "Make no mistake. The days of the internal combustion engine are definitely numbered" - Quentin Willson, 1997



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 258 ✭✭olympicweights


    I'm pulling in an average of 11kW most nights between charging batteries and one of 2 evs so I presume adding a rectifier isn't going to help as my supply is limited to ~12kW?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 5,868 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    63A fuse? You won't gain much. I'd still do it though. An extra 3-4kWh per night depending on your tariff. The rectifier would pay for itself in a year and you wouldn't even hear it running at 1kW.

    Stay Free



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 798 ✭✭✭bunderoon


    When you get up past 11Kw, I'd personally be a little nervous about the heat at the termination contacts in the main CU.

    The old question - "Is this safe and worth the risk.."



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,728 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    That is why I have temp sensors on my main MCBs in the CU, I don't just trust it but then again my whole board and MCBs are new and all 16sq wires/bus bars so I'd be fairly confident it can handle.

    Temps at 16kw but it's also just the 3 hours anyway.

    image.png

    If temps go above what I like automation kicks in to reduce the draw of EV/batteries



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,658 ✭✭✭championc


    12kW @ 230v is only 52A, so you have another 10A spare



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 300 ✭✭insular1


    What temp sensors do you use for this? Be interested in doing something similar.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 60,760 ✭✭✭✭unkel


    The ESB SLA for a 12kVA MIC is no more than 52A continuous 😁

    "Make no mistake. The days of the internal combustion engine are definitely numbered" - Quentin Willson, 1997



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,658 ✭✭✭championc


    Ah, but how long is "continuous" 🤔



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,728 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    Shelly power monitors and you can get an addon that adds temp sensors



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 60,760 ✭✭✭✭unkel


    Doesn't matter. You are not allowed to go over it!

    But technically it is the maximum average over 10 minutes that is no higher than 52A. From ESB website:

    image.png

    "Make no mistake. The days of the internal combustion engine are definitely numbered" - Quentin Willson, 1997



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 80 ✭✭GarlicBed


    I'm paying for 12kva and by God I'll use it.

    I sit at 12kw for 3 hours every night the last 4 years



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,861 ✭✭✭ECO_Mental


    I pull18kW for three hours every night, but I have a 16kVA connection and an 80Amp main breaker.

    I also have 25sqr cabling to and from my board and inverter. Got a loan of a Flir infrared camera and the hottest thing in my board at full load was the doorbell transformer...

    1000033335.jpg

    6.1kWp south facing, South of Cork City



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,768 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    This might be going off the original thread - but it's an interesting topic, one that I've thought about myself a fair bit. I'm not a spark, but I'd be very cautious of running close to max on a consumer board for an extended period of time. Maybe we need a new thread as it's generated a lot of comments in the past.

    I have a vague recollection that this changed in the last few years (allowing up to 268v?), but traditionally your supply was always 230v +/- 10% , so in theory you could get anything from 208 - 253v and still be within SLA. To take ECO's case above as an example, drawing down 18Kw at 230v might be fine at 78A, but if the voltage was say 215v that day, you'd have to draw 83A (18000/215) to get your 18Kw - which technically could blow your fuse. If it was 210v, you'd be looking at 86A. To be fair, generally voltages in an area are fairly stable, but it's worth remembering.

    Aside: Knowing ECO from a long time here, I'd say he has it well sorted, I'm just using him as an example to highlight that people should be aware of the risks. it's a pain in the hoop to get the main fuse replaced by ESB.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 60,760 ✭✭✭✭unkel


    Did you never check your grid voltage when at maximum draw? I can tell you that no matter where you are, it ain't nothing like 230V 😁

    "Make no mistake. The days of the internal combustion engine are definitely numbered" - Quentin Willson, 1997



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,787 ✭✭✭micks_address


    Definitely an interesting topic. Our smart meter started smoking last year in the middle of the night. Esb networks took responsibility for it and replaced the meter cabinet, smart meter and compensated for smoke damage in adjoining room. We were pulling 12kva most nights with car, house battery and dishwasher, washing machine..afterwards I added a temp sensor to our meter cabinet. I can see even in dept of winter the cabinet temp rises by 5 degrees over our 3 hour consumption window. Actually have an esb networks designer due to call tomorrow as Ive concerns about our supply..it's a looped connection to our neighbors which folks on here reckon won't be 12kva at all even though that's what our networks contract says we have. Apparently to get it upgraded we may need to dig our drive up and neighbors which won't be happening as they just had theirs tared last summer.

    I was never to bothered about the connection but the fire spooked the crap out of us. Woke in the middle of the night with nest smoke detector in the a joining room. Fire brigade said whole house would have gone up in smoke if we didn't notice. The found the meter cabinet smoking when they arrived as we couldn't find anything on fire in the house.

    Id hate to think what would have happened if our meter was inside which it is in lots of older houses.

    Meter was taken away for examination but was too damaged to find a root cause. The fire brigade electrician and first networks engineer on site both reckoned the neutral on the smart meter was not tightened to torque requirements.

    I'm all for maximizing tarrifs but we are certainly more cautious about it now.. we reduced the grid limit on our zappi so we don't pull as high continuous and also dont bother with the dishwasher now and washing machine at night.

    Interesting to see what networks say on site tomorrow but probably will be rescheduled with the flooding today

    Cheers

    Mick

    1000032079.png


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,768 ✭✭✭bullit_dodger


    I don't hit my limit - not so much as I'd like to and have "backed it off", but rather I simply don't have the loading to get there. My GivEnergy battery is only 2.4kw, and my new recent addition, from someone you know :-) ! on a ME3000Sp only is 3kw, so my battery charging in total is 5.4Kw. Add the house ~500w or so and I've a constant loading of 6kw from 2am to 6am. That extra hour night rate on Energia of 4 hrs helps a lot.

    Sure when I'm running the dishwasher and washing machine in the night window, I might see a spike perhaps over 10kw, but it's short so for me it's not a problem, maybe 10-20 mins. Out of curiosity, I had a look at last nights run.

    image.png

    You can see the grid voltage drop a good 4-5volts when the charging starts, but to be fair…..it also was lower when I had no load on at 7am. I'm in about the 229-238v for that day above.

    The takeaway here is for people to keep an eye on things. Running very close to your max , while you might "get away" with it…..you'd want to be careful. I'd probably leave a buffer of 10% (20% to be really cautious)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 60,760 ✭✭✭✭unkel


    This is my typical voltage drop at crazy o'clock

    image.png

    "Make no mistake. The days of the internal combustion engine are definitely numbered" - Quentin Willson, 1997



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,861 ✭✭✭ECO_Mental


    My voltage goes down to 220V at full load 18 kW circa 80Amps. For the first couple of weeks I was very conscious of over loading system and pushing the limits. I have an advantage in that I'm in a new build house (4 years) where I got the 16kVA from the start so all my tails are 25sqr and my consumer board is rated for those loads. I certainly wouldn't recommend someone living in an older house all of a sudden blasting your import limits..... As I said earlier I got a commercial Flir Infrared camera to survey all my connections and nothing was hot so I sleep easy at night. I'll check again during the summer when it's a bit warmer

    1000033340.jpg

    6.1kWp south facing, South of Cork City



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,728 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    Been there, well almost, due to loose neutral.

    image.png

    Luckily you can just about see the temp sensor in there that alerted me of something being wrong.

    Whole board was replaced after, with a metal one 😂



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 60,760 ✭✭✭✭unkel


    Loose connection + high current = recipe for disaster

    And you'd be surprised at how hot a just slightly loose connection can get. Seen it first hand in my own setup (at the DC end)

    "Make no mistake. The days of the internal combustion engine are definitely numbered" - Quentin Willson, 1997



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,510 ✭✭✭randombar


    Re voltage drop vs current, most devices are current limited anyway so whatever the voltage was it wouldn't / shouldn't exceed the pre defined current limit. Interesting point re temp probe, any recommendations on where to put it?



  • Moderators, Education Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 8,332 Mod ✭✭✭✭Jonathan


    Split these comments out into their own thread.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,021 ✭✭✭bfa1509


    Woulddn't this be dependant on the infrastructure coming into the house? I would imagine a house sitting underneath a 20KV line with a small spur to the transformer would differ to a house 100m away from the mainline sharing a transformer with another house.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 7,609 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Yes.

    Countryside, 6 houses on the transformer.. I think

    37153.png

    My 45 year old ESBN head/fuse holder did fail on me this year though, excess heat did lead to premature failure of the main fuse



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 798 ✭✭✭bunderoon


    Does that mean that some of those 5 other houses are also on the EV rate? : ) To cause such a drop or that you are just one of the furthest away from the transformer - or both? (No such thing as a stupid question, they tell me..)



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 7,609 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Im one of the longest distance, I'm pulling 16kW (on 16kVA) and there is my parents next door also on an EV rate.

    Also transformer is at the end of the line of a long run too. (I think it's about 2 mile to the main branch, and another 2 to the 3 phase connection)

    Talk about being at the end of the line..

    "Insert old story of setting the old transformer on fire when we and our neighbour just happend to start our barley crushers at the same time one day because the ESB didn't believe that we were getting brownouts... "- well before my time



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,861 ✭✭✭ECO_Mental


    Following up on this, I certainly would not recommend people off their own bat blasting their theoretical max import limit without doing a survey of your infrastructure to see is it safe. Is your consumer boards rated for these loads? Is your wiring/tails have the capacity to take these loads? Everything tight etc etc

    Here are some Flir Infrared photos I took at some of my gear under full load. I suppose what I am saying if you put in the correct sized equipment you can go close to the limit. I have a number of limits set, the Zappi that keeps it below 80Amps for the main incomer and my inverter is limited to drawing 60Amps. My Zappi is set before my Inverter so is grid side.

    This is my Anti Islanding unit and this was the hottest I could find of all my wiring, what’s hot here are wires going into the contactors not the breakers which are rated for 63Amps. I have the current limited going through this to 60 Amps, so this is its limit and can’t go any higher. Is this too hot?

    image.png

    This is my meter cabinet and this is under 18kW load for about an hour at this stage….no issues here Max temp about 25degs

    image.png

    This is my consumer board what’s highlighted here is the trip for my Zappi, the other hot spot is the doorbell transformer!, max temps in my board are only about 35degs maybe

    image.png

    This is my 15kVA Quattro under max load…have yet to see that thing struggle or put out any heat. It has three big fans and in a cool garage so it operating in ideal conditions.

    image.png

    Finally these are the battery cables, charging at 200Amps (53V) but divided by 3 so each battery here is taking about 3.33kW so well below their capacity. Hardly any heat off them

    image.png

    6.1kWp south facing, South of Cork City



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,021 ✭✭✭bfa1509


    Really interesting pictures, was that camera expensive? Wouldn't mind one of those myself.

    I personally wouldn't be concerned with those temperatures. I'm sure in Spain, Australia, US or other ridiculously hot places would get to those temperatures under no load at all!



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