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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 47 TaSeThat


    I have a Cannondale Optimo road bike, think it's a 2016 as can't see the model number on the bike. The gear shifter, right-hand side one, comes loose (as in slack as if the cable is snapped) and I've brought it down to repair guys (they've pulled the cable back in but it's happened on two occasions now). They said can't get that part and can't change the shifter as bike is old and won't take new parts (something along those lines which I thought was weird as it's a bike). The shifter is back working at the moment but rather than trying to sell the bike I was wondering could I "convert it".

    Instead of getting a couple of hundred as it is, i've been watching a lot of these bike hiking videos and wondering could I convert this into something similar. Tyres, gears, etc would have to be replaced but could it be done with this kind of bike? Would it be costly, would you need to be a pro or if you have the will and the tools is it achievable for a "rookie"?

    Any and all opinions welcome, thanks in advance



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 26,777 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    What number of gears are on it (number of cogs at back and number of chainrings at front)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 47 TaSeThat


    10 cogs at the back and 2 chainrings at the pedals. Just to clarify when I said tires, I'm presuming wheels and tires would need to be replaced - wider for the possibility of off-road sections when out and about. Breaks aswell. I have this bike nearly 10 years so it may need to be "updated" if parts are an issue and if it can be converted to something more durable for bike hiking.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,786 ✭✭✭cletus


    You can use any bike for bike packing, really, but if you start changing shifters, wheels etc, it can get expensive very quickly, depending on what you want to do. Would you be hoping to use it yourself, or sell it on.

    You're very unlikely to recoup the money you put into the bike if you sell



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 26,777 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    I would need more details but presuming it is a Cannondale, likely shimano 2X10speed. If you only need one shifter you will get one for 50eurio brand new. Id go 100 and get a matching set for comfort, housing is probably fine, so new cables, so another fiver, cable cutters. Presuming brakes etc are all ok. Measure the width available for tyres (no point ordering if they are too wide) but what you have might be fine for now, it is marketed as a road/race bike so unlikely much mor than 700*25.

    Long story short, under 150 to make it functional again if you do it yourself, probably 300 for the bike shop including parts.

    It is an alloy race bike though, so be cautious about how much you put in to it if bike packing is the plan.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 47 TaSeThat


    That's great thanks for all that. I'll probably avail of the bike to work scheme and get a new road bike and keep the Cannondale and implement what you say….if nothing it would be a good project to undertake and get me more confident in doing my own maintenance



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,847 ✭✭✭JMcL


    Could it be that the grease in the shifter has hardened? It's a known problem with Shimano shifters and one that I had a few years ago on mine. It manifested itself as the bike being able to shift down on the rear, but not up. I was able to clear out all the gummed up lube using a degreaser spray and reapply a light spray lube (not WD40!!). Doesn't sound exactly like your problem, but might be nonetheless



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 26,777 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    I had that as well, it took alot of spray to loosen it up but it did work.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 439 ✭✭The Macho Man


    Anyone have a recommendation for a good bike mech in the Portarlington/Newbridge/Naas direction?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,786 ✭✭✭cletus




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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 439 ✭✭The Macho Man


    I did see that on maps but no signage or anything at all. Do you have to ring ahead?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,786 ✭✭✭cletus


    Depends what you want done, I suppose. He'll be quieter this time of the year, though.

    Even when you get there, it can be a little tricky to find.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,183 ✭✭✭nicksnikita


    R8000 FD question:

    FD is taking a lot of force to shift from small to big ring.
    Bike was due a service so I shortened the outer cable and replaced the inner cable this evening.

    That didn’t improve it so I flushed the FD with gt85 while still on the bike as it feels stiff(ish) when actuated by hand.

    Anything basic I'm missing out on? Tempted to switch to a new 6800 fd I have in the box



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,533 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    replace both inner and outer cable. Also replace the plastic sleeve that guides the cable from under the BB up to the FD. Remover the FD and give it a thorough clean and lube it.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,786 ✭✭✭cletus


    On top of that, if the bike has one, check the plastic cable guide under the bottom bracket. This could be clogged up with gunk, or worn.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,183 ✭✭✭nicksnikita


    Thanks lads

    As an update, it’s shifting much easier this evening. I checked the cable guides etc. and they’re all good.
    It’s a rim brake Supersix Evo so cable routing is fairly straightforward, with only a small guide at the bb and naked cable running up to the mech.
    Looks like the FD itself was stiffened and the gt85 has freed it up after shifting it repeatedly yesterday and today

    Post edited by nicksnikita on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 720 ✭✭✭Pablo_Flox


    Okay, I really hope that someone can help me out.

    I have a new (to me) Trek Domane SL6 that I bought 2 days ago. I went to update the firmware on the di2, and when I was close to being done my phone battery dropped below 20% and it went into power saving mode which stopped the firmware update. Unfortunately that has now bricked the whole system, and there is no sign of life out of it. Which is very worrying.

    Looking online it seems to be a fairly common occurrence. But the fix seems unclear... Has anyone else experienced this, and if so how did you fix it?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,544 ✭✭✭witnessmenow


    I will make full use of the title of this thread if you don't mind!

    I picked up a couple of second hand bikes for the kids for cheap and they need a bit of TLC. Their frame and chain seem to be in ok condition, but there are few other bits that need attention. I don't really know anything about bikes/bike maintaince but wouldn't mind trying a few bits out as a project with the kids.

    The bike probably in better condition: the brake cables have definitely seen better days, very frayed at the end and bit a grubby looking too iirc. Maybe the brake pads themselves look a bit thin, but maybe thats just the way they are (need to have a closer look). It's also missing the handle bar grips.

    The other one I haven't had as close a look at yet (because i couldn't fit both in the car, so i only saw it quickly), but I know for sure one of the brakes doesn't work and there was an "issue with the gears", I assume they don't work. Also a broken pedal.

    I was going to tackle the better condition bike first. Looks like I'll need:

    • Replacement for both brake cables (including outers)
    • Handle bar grips.

    I've looked at a few videos online on how to do it and it seems fine.

    First question, is I assume for this type of small stuff I'd be as well just getting it the local bike shop instead of online? I've only ever really got a couple of punctures sorted in the local bike place and they seem reasonable for that, so I assume they would be for parts too. I assume within reason (and the context of this being basically a bike that would be used now and again) that there isn't really an advantage to getting more expensive stuff?

    Second question, for the brake cable, all the videos and guides show people using a specific cable cutting tool, is that necessary or would a regular snips or something do the job? I have good few bits and pieces that would probably do the crimping of the wire end.

    Cheers!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,487 ✭✭✭RebelButtMunch


    Last time I bought a cable, it came with crimp ends in the pack, so maybe look out for that. OR the bike shop if it has a mechanic would throw you a few I'm sure



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,487 ✭✭✭RebelButtMunch


    oh yeah and be extremely careful handling the new cables. If you get a proper kink in them, they'll be useless because they'll be rubbing up the inside of the outside cover and causing friction there.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,544 ✭✭✭witnessmenow


    Sorry yeah I meant I would have tools that could crimp the crimp ends. Most of the kits on amazon have them but I'm not sure what the bike shop will have, but can always ask!

    Good tip, thanks!



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 26,777 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Pictures are helpful but a few quick points:

    A regular wire snips is fine but might not be as clean and more likely to fray, get the crimp on asap. A regular pliers will do the crimping for you.

    No advantage to getting more expensive stuff.

    Your LBS will have almost all you need.

    The issue with the gears could be a loose cable, it could be worn chain or sprockets, so you need more info here, what does they don't work actually mean.

    careful of the broken pedal, is it the pedal or has the attachment point threads at the crank been damaged?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,788 ✭✭✭Wildly Boaring


    Yeah, i'd just replace brake and gear cables (inners and outers) and probably the brake pads.
    Any time i've bought these in my local shop they've been reasonable.

    When you've the gear cables off give the derauillers a good clean/degrease and get them moving by hand.

    Any decent snips do fine for cutting the cable - but if you're like me you can use it as an excuse to go Knippex

    Get a few of these fellas and crimp em gentle with the snips - or if really stuck but of good tape straight after the cut.

    image.png

    BTW you may end up sticking a pair of tyres on it. See how you get on



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,487 ✭✭✭RebelButtMunch


    Are they disc brake pads? if they are, dont press the brake handle while you have the pads removed



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,544 ✭✭✭witnessmenow


    I'm pretty certain it's v brakes, definitely not disc!

    Thanks for all the replies. Much appreciated. I'll plan to get the stuff off the bike shop this week.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,544 ✭✭✭witnessmenow


    i haven't had a chance to wash it yet so please forgive the dirt! But here are some pictures of bike 1

    The brakes:

    IMG_20260210_222933_998.jpg IMG_20260210_222917_413.jpg

    The front pads look pretty thin to me:

    IMG_20260210_222923_219.jpg

    The front tyre looks pretty new, must have been replaced.

    IMG_20260210_222938_951.jpg

    Back tyre looks a bit older alright.

    IMG_20260210_222912_584.jpg

    So a bit of work to be done, but hopefully will be a fun project with the kids.

    IMG_20260210_224608_977.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 397 ✭✭slideshow bob


    Front pads definitely need replacing. If you're doing the cables and cable housing consider doing back pads too.

    Pliers/snips will work for cable and housing. It's way easier if you have a good cable cutting tool if the budget goes that far.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16 CasNiRas


    The bike I ordered from Spar Cycles was delivered to a relative's house in the UK. I’m hoping to go over there in March and take it back by Rail and Sail. Are there any special tools I need to put it together correctly?

    I’m not sure what I will be able to bring, as I’m hoping to fly over. Getting to Dublin Port as a foot passenger can be a bit of a pain in the arse, but it isn't too bad on the way back.

    7440165A-C958-448E-985E-9CDF712C6A1F.jpeg


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 26,777 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Torque wrench with as many Allen Key head options as possible and a pedal spanner although they will hand thread on fine. I am guessing by the way it's packed it is already connected up in regards brakes and gears. Does it definitely have pedals?

    After that make sure to bring lights in case you end up cycling at a dark time, and a lock in case you need to park up for some reason.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,766 ✭✭✭at1withmyself


    What steps have you tried so far, I assume you charged up the phone and attempted the update again through the App?

    Is the Di2 battery fully charged? What version Di2 have you got, if the older version there is an app for windows which could be worth trying to connect to via a laptop as it might work better then the app on a phone?

    Have you tried triggering the rear derailleur into crash recovery mode?



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