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Heat Pump Running Costs

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,126 ✭✭✭Mr Q


    They should definitely know in that case.

    But from my own experience running it with UFH it is not inefficient.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 106 ✭✭riccol1966


    I thought I would add my 2nd thoughts on heat pump costs. Originally posted some data in Nov/Dec 2023. After the install the kWh usage was meh, ok, not great. A1 rated house, built 2000, with radiators. Oil boiler was replaced by heat pump in Nov 2023. We've done all the upgrades we could, but we couldn't do the floor lift-up to put in underfloor as that was a bridge too far. So we'll never get the "storage heater" that underfloor heating gives, nor can we use the cheap night rate for it. I guess my longer term plan is to size a battery for the average kWh used by the HP per day during the Nov-Feb period, and store night rate energy and use that for powering the heat pump during the day… In the future I can probably do this with my EV using V2G/V2H technology but that's 5-10years away; for now it would require a separate battery. In the meantime, here's my monthly and yearly kWh and cost. Over 700Kwh in Jan. Not great. At all. Stats are 22 downstairs and 18 upstairs, hot water tank set to 44 for showers etc.

    I've been tweaking here and there but I don't think there's any way to substantially improve the cost. I tried leaving the unit off overnight, one view is that you'll save money as you're not heating when no one needs it, the other says heat to a temp and keep it ticking over as that's when the HP is most efficient. Tried both, nothing really changed in my figures. House is well insulated but no point being cold, just to say I've saved a few bob. I originally thought to myself - if it costs around the same as oil and we've moved away from fossil fuels then good. I think we've managed that, at least. Also the PV panels will offset some of the cost. But let's be realistic also- heat pumps cost a minimum 3 times that of an oil boiler. It's very unlikely we'll get that back over the lifetime of the product. For underfloor they seem perfect. But for rads…Mmmm

    heat-pump-monthly.png heat-pump-yearly.png


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 7,733 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Any idea of what SCOP you are at?

    What HP are you using and what would your flow temperature be (is it set or weather compensated?)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,382 ✭✭✭✭Cyrus




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 106 ✭✭riccol1966


    Daikin Altherma 3R 11Kw, not sure what the SCOP is on the unit. There may be something in the HP menu to show the SCOP?



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 106 ✭✭riccol1966




  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 7,733 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    I think there should be, It would give you a true "heat demand" for the house to properly compare with oil (id count 9kWh of heat from 1 litre of oil assuming a new, condensing boiler)

    As the HP is R32 it will lose efficiency as the flow temperature rises, which radiators usually look for. the new R290 ones dont do as well at low flow temperatures as the r32 but will do better than r32 at higher temperature (but the lower the flow temperature the better)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,925 ✭✭✭ECO_Mental


    I was going to wait another couple of weeks to get a full year's worth of data before analysing the results, but since this thread is getting some interest, I will post my findings from changing my Heat Pump strategy.

    In summary, early last October I switched to a smart tariff and, as a result, changed how I use my heat pump. Previously, I just let it do its thing, heating water and the house whenever required. For example, if a thermostat in just one room called for heat, the heat pump would switch on, and after every shower, it would immediately boost the hot water back up to the set temperature. After doing some research (with sources like Heat Geek and lads on Boards.ie), I decided to switch to a new approach to build up the house's thermal mass. I now force all my heating zones to open at the same time to heat the entire house in one go. This is primarily done during the super-low EV rate at night (6.5 cent/kWh). I also scheduled the domestic hot water (DHW) to reheat only during this time, with an additional one-hour slot at midday to hopefully take advantage of any solar PV generation and the warmest part of the day.

    I've found it to be a great success. I have reduced my actual heat pump consumption by 25% and reduced my heat pump costs by 33%.

    The graph shows the moving 365-day average daily cost for my heating and DHW over the past four years. You can see my daily average starting to drop from early October last year, and I expect it will begin to flatten out now.

    I do think there are more savings to be had. My strategy isn't very "smart" yet. When the heating season comes on, I have to manually set the timer on each room thermostat (I have 12 zones), so making any changes requires going around to each one. I bought little Shelly relays that I was going to replace the stats with, but the missus wasn't keen on me blanking over the walls where the stats are. I reckon I could reduce my heating costs even more by using a system that predicts the next day's weather, so maybe I will look into it again.

    image.png

    Here is my 365 days moving average of my daily HP consumption, I have reduced this by 25% approx

    image.png

    @championc regarding SCOP for my HP here are pictures of the energy consumed and energy produced from the HP, for 2024 I think its saying maybe a SCOP of 4.5…thats very good if thats the case

    image.png image.png

    6.1kWp south facing, South of Cork City



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,455 ✭✭✭newhouse87


    Yep as we discussed before I use the same strategy the past 2 winters after an expensive 1st winter led me to learn about heat pumps.

    Just wondering why do you have to set all the stats, if all loops open you should be able to just use 1 programmable stat to get heat into all rooms at same time, that's what I do anyway.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 106 ✭✭riccol1966


    I assume you've underfloor heating is that right?



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,925 ✭✭✭ECO_Mental


    I suppose last winter I was only experimenting, I suppose you are right I could just take off the actuators in the manifolds to have it all open but I never though of that and seems a bit radical but I might look at that. I was thinking of putting the shelly relays on the acuator but need to do some research on it. TBH once set there isn't too much messing about. One thing if you get a really cold spell I do just let it off and heat on demand to save on headaches!! but that was only a couple of times last winter a day or two here and there.

    Yeah UFH upstairs and downstairs, so I can get good thermal mass, I have an A1 rated house as well. But using the open loop heating strat should work in most houses I think.

    6.1kWp south facing, South of Cork City



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 106 ✭✭riccol1966


    yeah with underfloor i would expect some significant savings if e.g. someone was heating at night rate and then just needing a small top up in the evening as the thermal mass becomes exhausted. But with rads I don't think there's any magic bullet or strategy to get, e.g. a 15% improvement. Unless I'm missing something. I'm willing to experiment.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,455 ✭✭✭newhouse87


    Yeah I took actuators off couple years back and I run the house of 1 stat that I can time to go on and then go off when temp i want is hit. V handy to manage.

    Post edited by newhouse87 on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,455 ✭✭✭newhouse87


    Yep it's why smart meters can be useful. I turn on heating during night rate and in real.cold weather I will leave run til noon maybe so most of the hard work done by the heat pump will be night rate.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,382 ✭✭✭✭Cyrus


    Yes me too on your advice I think as you say makes it handy to manage !



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 863 ✭✭✭staples7


    same as discussed running HP at night for bones of 8 years. other than v cold periods the HP would run very little to nothing on day rate. (I do let the hot water do its own thing as it uses very little electricity anyway, just force it to top up before day rate comes on) Didn't move to a smart rate of cheaper windows as I didn't think the windows were long enough and had a higher 'peak times' I did the maths last year and my total heating and hot water costs were sub 500 euro for the year. that's before you even look at the offsetting my solar is doing.

    I use the ecodan app for any changes in setup so very very handy. or even running reports. hopefully we'll be a bit into October before I change it to winter settings. Since April any heating has been off.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,746 ✭✭✭THE ALM


    A year in since switch to ASHP and have looked back and tried to work out the running costs for the year.

    165m2 2006 built bungalow, all rads and now A1 rated. Walls pumped with walltite several years ago, triple glazed windows and new doors fitted about 3 years ago and a 8.28kW solar setup with a 10kW battery (since upgraded but only after heating was turned off for the summer). With the new 33kW battery I would hope to cover a lot more of the heating from charging at the EV rate.

    All the hot water is heated during the EV Cheap rate or solar during the summer.

    Heating I have broken down in several ways. We run a 2 hour 'boost' at a higher temp during the EV window. I have assumed 10% from stored energy in the battery (charged in the EV window) and the rest I have allowed at the full cost 20 hour period with Energia.

    With that in mind the running cost has been approx. €415 for the year (about 7.5 months really).

    Screenshot_2025-09-22-15-49-27-375_com.viessmann.vicare.jpg Screenshot_2025-09-22-15-50-22-038_com.viessmann.vicare.jpg

    Screenshot_2025-09-22-15-50-10-818_com.viessmann.vicare.jpg

    Screenshot_2025-09-22-15-50-10-818_com.viessmann.vicare.jpg

    We had been using a 1000l of oil/year, the last fill being about €1200.

    Total SCOP 5.25, Heating 5.95, HW 3.4.

    More that happy with that as there is likely to be a bit of variation in that cost but not that substantial. Even allowing for a €500/year we have halved the cost of the heating.

    The cost is mostly covered with excess solar being exported so we are probably close to net zero.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 106 ✭✭riccol1966


    Sorry if I'm being a little slow,, but how come your 2025 analysis chart has data points in December when we haven't reached that point yet?

    Also I assume you are 0 kWh for the spring and summer because the battery is covering the daily usage is that right?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,746 ✭✭✭THE ALM


    Just an anomaly with the way the app reports it, carrying Dec through.

    Would turn off the heating and just have the HW running which would be covered by the battery/solar alright.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 482 ✭✭andyd12


    How are people's HP's running?

    How many kWh's this month for example?



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 1,658 ✭✭✭JohnySwan


    36.8 kwh for mine this month. 1400sq ft Air to Air.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,925 ✭✭✭ECO_Mental


    @andyd12 So far this month 62 kWh..

    only put on the heating yesterday for an hour at 4-5am. Didnt really need to put in on but at 6cent a kWh it was only 2.5kWh in total so cost me only 15cent so why not put it on!!. This is to start building up the thermal mass in the slabs and take the small bit of chill in the moring

    6.1kWp south facing, South of Cork City



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,382 ✭✭✭✭Cyrus


    35kwh so far this month 2100 sq feet A3 a2w. Id say 90 percent of that is dhw at night rates. Hasn't been cold yet in fairness so no call for heating.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,746 ✭✭✭THE ALM


    31.5kWh so far this month, 2006 165m2 bungalow.

    22.1kWh heating, 9.4kWh hot water



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 482 ✭✭andyd12


    Thanks folks.

    113kwh this month. 94kwh heating & 19kwh hot water. 2300sqft bungalow, new build, A1 rated.

    Pretty high figures by comparison to above. At 21 degrees in the kitchen through a master stat and on constantly. 4 bedrooms at 20 degrees on actuators. Needs a bit of tuning



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 106 ✭✭riccol1966


    I'm 105kwh for October so far, much the same as you... Keep the house between 20 and 21 downstairs and 18-19 upstairs. Rads, no underfloor.

    As I've no thermal mass there's not much else to be done, already A1.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,382 ✭✭✭✭Cyrus


    Id check your stats, I found the calibration of mine was off by a lot and they were under reporting the temp (stat said 21 room was actually 24 )



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 482 ✭✭andyd12




  • Posts: 0 ✭✭ [Deleted User]


    How do you get the stats/analysis for your heatpump? I've a Samsung/Joule system.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,382 ✭✭✭✭Cyrus


    just get some home assistant compatible stats and compare their readings to the ones in the wall (also have a gun type thermometer for sense check)



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