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The Great Big Lawnmower Thread

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Comments

  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 11,806 Mod ✭✭✭✭Hermy


    I have about 3/4 of an acre of lawn to cut on relatively good ground but due to issues with tinnitus I need to change my Hayter petrol mower for something quieter.

    Can anyone advise on whats good in the world of cordless mowers as I know next to nothing about them?

    Thanks

    Genealogy Forum Mod



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,741 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    Not the answer you are looking for but would a robotic mower make more sense in that situation?

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 11,806 Mod ✭✭✭✭Hermy


    I would consider it but I honestly like cutting the grass so would prefer to consider a quieter push/ self drive mower first.

    But thanks for the comment.

    Genealogy Forum Mod



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 245 ✭✭bfclancy2


    I used to like cutting grass, i got the robot, now i really enjoy watching the robot cut the grass, very therapeutic watching it mow those perfectly straight lines, segway navimow x330e



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 8,453 ✭✭✭deezell


    I like the sound of that, especially with age catching up. I'd need the acre plus of grass landscaped a bit better, all the tree roots removed and a few hundred tons of topsoil to grade it and ease the steepness of banks. then reseed with something finer. Might get a quote, read it when I'm lying down...

    I broke yet another timing belt on the deck when the blade tip caught a root that had risen imperceptiby over the summer. Atkins in Cork tops for prices, the belt was possibly a third the price of the replacement from Stihl/Viking.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,672 ✭✭✭✭joujoujou
    Unregistered Users


    Starter solenoid in my ride-on has died (R.I.P.). Just ordered a replacement. Genuine B&S is quite expensive and not really easily available, so ordered a generic one which looks similar, but not exactly the same, hence question - does it matter which one of 2 big threaded poles is input and which one is output?

    Example photo below:

    Untitled Image


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,741 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    If there are only three terminals then it does matter. One will have the connection to the coil that closes the switch so if its the wrong way around it won't work. Don't think you will do any damage if you get it wrong provided you don't short out the batter.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,672 ✭✭✭✭joujoujou
    Unregistered Users


    Thanks. 3 terminals indeed. How to check which is which? Multimeter? If yes - what to expect and where?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 8,453 ✭✭✭deezell


    It's 4 terminals, the two bigs ones are 12V in from the battery and out to the starter, it doesn't matter which ones are used. The small spade connector is the starting 12v from the ignition switch to the solenoid, and the chassis connecting plate is also ground for the solenoid coil to the battery negative. You can put a multimeter over the spade and chassis, you should get a lowish resistance reading from the coil.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,741 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    As above if chassis connection plate is one of the connections then it doesn't matter.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,672 ✭✭✭✭joujoujou
    Unregistered Users


    Thanks. The most important for me is to make sure which of the big ones is input/output/doesn't matter. I already knew about spade connector (+) and base (-) and that these open/close the circuit - this is obvious, however large terminals not.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 8,453 ✭✭✭deezell


    Large terminals are polarity free. Electrons are not fussy which contact they use!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15 lr335mpg


    Hi all.

    I've a 2001 Countax D1850 with a faulty Warner 5219103 electric PTO clutch. Monster mower.

    I might be able to buy a new replacement clutch for £423.14 + import duty from www.gardentractorspares.co.uk if the 2008 model is a match - waiting on reply.

    https://www.gardentractorspares.co.uk/westwood-countax-tractor-d1850-diesel-electric-clutch-449690500

    Countax has closed down so contacted Warner USA to buy clutch directly for < $200 but it's OEM and still restricted. No go.

    https://www.warnerptodirect.com/shop/pto-clutches

    Does anybody out there have any experience with this clutch or matching OEM part to an item on the Warner list ?

    I can match the physical dimension but no idea on the rated torque or if the mount is CW \ CCW etc. ID is 1.25".

    Any help - I know it's very specific - gratefully accepted.

    Thanks. PW.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15 lr335mpg


    Thanks Deezell.

    But the ID is too small on that one.

    I rechecked the ID and it's 1.125" (28.575mm) shaft + pulley OD 6.375" (161.925mm) + 12VDC 10" lead.

    I'll start the engine tomorrow and see if the shaft turns CW or CCW.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 8,453 ✭✭✭deezell


    5218-303 is a heavy duty 1.125/6.375, comes up on Ebay etc, mostly US sites. What number is on yours? It should be stamped. The one you linked , 5217-2, is not the correct one.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 8,453 ✭✭✭deezell


    Just reread original post, you quote the number 5219-103, it's not showing on the Warner catalogue.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15 lr335mpg


    So the Warner 5219-103 was made specifically for Countax and it's not listed on the Warner list of clutches.

    See Warner Production Managers response to by request to buy direct.

    "This will not be available for direct purchase from Warner Electric. This part number will be sales restricted

    To the manufacture of the mower it is used in. You will need to contact the mower manufactures dealer to

    Purchase direct from them. If you have questions please feel free to contact me."

    When I explained Countax was no longer trading and if there was another clutch with the same specification.

    "Contact a Woods mower dealer and purchase their part number 78465"



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 8,453 ✭✭✭deezell


    I've had to deal with that type of dealer secrecy before, not just parts, but even the part numbers or diagrams. When I called a viking mower dealer once and asked for a timing belt price, quoting the part number, they were nearly apoplectic, asking where I got the number, where I got the parts diagram, plus they would only consider fitting it anyway, no selling it over the counter.

    That woods part number produces som high US prices, $444 keeps recurring, looking at maybe €600. Here's a couple of links that might work.

    https://a.co/d/2yrrGCm

    US delivery only, you could use Anpost Address pal. Similarly with this one.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/324142793911



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 8,453 ✭✭✭deezell


    Another option is to try dismantling the old one and get a friction pad replacement once you've measured it. Ive watched youtubes of guys splitting them.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15 lr335mpg




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 8,453 ✭✭✭deezell




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15 lr335mpg


    image.png

    Here is a picture of all the parts to the clutch \ brake unit. It might help someone else understand a similar problem.

    The six clutch \ pulley flexi fingers sheared when the whole clutch dropped off the drive shaft. Lock bolt worked loose.

    Stator - static and attached to the under chassis.

    Brake - offset on the stator body to stop the clutch plate rotating when disengaged. (Top of stator in picture)

    Rotor - spinning with the vertical engine main drive shaft. (Keyed)

    Clutch plate - floats against the rotor and only spins when the magnet attracts it to the rotor

    Pulley - attached to the clutch plate with flexible fingers (studs fixed hard and don't let fingers move or rotate)

    D-drive - still missing. But could be fabricated on a lathe.

    Bolt - Found.

    Enjoy.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 8,453 ✭✭✭deezell


    At least the D cap can be bought, part 4a in this diagram. What a mess over a loose bolt. A month back I'd replaced a deck timing belt after a root caught the blade. I'd only fixed it two weeks when a small m6 nut retaining a side cover on one of the decks knife shaft toothed pulleys worked loose, got between the new belt and a toothed idler pulley and stripped teeth off both, rubber and steel. If swears were a euro each,someone would have been rich that day. Hope you get sorted.

    https://www.partsharp.com/spare-parts/countax/d-series-lawn-tractors/countax-d18-50-tractor/countax-d18-50-lawn.aspx



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,562 ✭✭✭Icyseanfitz


    any good deals on self propelled mowers at the moment lads? the gearbox on woodies prolawn 21 inch has given up, budget of 500-750 i suppose but could go more if need to



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 1,050 ✭✭✭ergo


    So out of nowhere the sun has appeared and I can hear mowing in the distance

    When do ye all start mowing ? And I am aware of the thinking to leave it as late as possible for environmental reasons but to get the grass short so the kids aren't getting feet soaked every time how early is too early?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,672 ✭✭✭✭joujoujou
    Unregistered Users


    I start mowing when grass is high enough to trigger ms. jou's reaction, so no, not yet. ;-)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,741 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    Now (last day of Feb) is fine, I've cut on Christmas day before. Its all down to ground conditions. If you can get the mower over the ground without making a muddy mess go for it but don't cut really short 2 inches is low enough and higher if the grass has got long.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,874 ✭✭✭✭cnocbui


    When the ground is no longer mud with grass on top and can support the weight of me and the mower without either sinking into it.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,286 ✭✭✭shanec1928


    about two weeks ago! Second cut today, will start mulching from now on.



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