Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Help Keep Boards Alive. Support us by going ad free today. See here: https://subscriptions.boards.ie/.
If we do not hit our goal we will be forced to close the site.

Current status: https://keepboardsalive.com/

Annual subs are best for most impact. If you are still undecided on going Ad Free - you can also donate using the Paypal Donate option. All contribution helps. Thank you.
https://www.boards.ie/group/1878-subscribers-forum

Private Group for paid up members of Boards.ie. Join the club.

How to cool down a converted attic in summer?

  • 23-08-2025 11:14PM
    #1
    Monokne
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,949 ✭✭✭


    Hi all

    Our attic is converted into a bedroom and my daughter has recently moved up there. In the summer it gets very warm up there, especially in the evening as the house is south facing. Opening the window doesn't do much. I've tried an oscillating tower fan but since the air is hot it's not as effective as I would like. Is there some type of expensive fan or air cooling solution I could put up there?

    Thanks



Comments

  • #2
    CrazyEric
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 218 ✭✭CrazyEric


    Depends on how much you want to spend. A very basic air conditioner would probably be in the region of €2000 ish. A simple air in/out fan and duct system wouldn't be too dear either. How handy are you??



  • #3
    Monokne
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,949 ✭✭✭Monokne


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123748764#Comment_123748764

    Not especially but getting better. Can you elaborate on an in/out fan?



  • #4
    CrazyEric
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 218 ✭✭CrazyEric


    Two fans installed opposite sides of the room, one drawing air in, one drawing out thus causing a cross breeze. very helpful if you can vent to outside so there are special tiles/slates to allow air flow in or out. They can be wired to always operate at the same time.



  • #5
    Bass Reeves
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 20,755 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    Is it insulated

    Slava Ukrainii



  • #6
    Lumen
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 30,495 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    Normal experience with a poor executed attic conversion. You'd need good air tightness and insulation to stop heat rising up from the rest of the house and soaking in from the roof.

    I don't think aircon is the answer in Ireland - the outside air is cool enough.

    I second CrazyEric's not crazy suggestion of getting as much external air through the space as possible.



  • Advertisement
  • #7
    Dial Hard
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 15,127 ✭✭✭✭Dial Hard


    Would you not just get a Dyson Cool Tower or similar? They're a few hundred quid. Much cheaper than 2k.



  • #8
    10-10-20
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 9,388 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123749175#Comment_123749175

    It's and air blower which has a "cooling effect" but no method to cool the air, so be careful with that element of the marketing.

    One trick with getting air movement like suggested is to leave any doors on the stair up to the attic open during the day to encourage ventilation via the 'stack effect', and also open windows at the lowest level to encourage air to travel upwards.

    https://sustainabilityworkshop.venturewell.org/node/1029.html

    But the problem is often the residual heat in the ceiling, roof and walls which then permeates back into the space once the doors are closed at night. That's where good insulation detailing at the time of construction helps.



  • #9
    Dial Hard
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 15,127 ✭✭✭✭Dial Hard


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123749296#Comment_123749296

    I did not know that, thanks. Pretty misleading name in that case!



  • #10
    SuperBowserWorld
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,156 ✭✭✭SuperBowserWorld


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123748808#Comment_123748808

    Yep, maybe not insulated correctly.

    Post edited by SuperBowserWorld on


  • #11
    Monokne
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,949 ✭✭✭Monokne


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123749175#Comment_123749175

    Are those things pretty powerful?



  • Advertisement
  • #12
    Monokne
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,949 ✭✭✭Monokne


    How would I know whether it is insulated correctly or not? What would I be looking for?



  • #13
    Lumen
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 30,495 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123750472#Comment_123750472

    It being cold in winter, although that can be masked by heat rising from the rest of the house.



  • #14
    Soc_Alt
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 321 ✭✭Soc_Alt


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123750459#Comment_123750459

    No. Don't waste your money.



  • #15
    Bass Reeves
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 20,755 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123750472#Comment_123750472

    You said it was an attic room. I presume it was converted before you purchased tge house if you do not know if it us insulated.

    Is there access to the attic at the side of the room. If there is enter these area and check-in sides are insulated. You may also be able to see above the ceilings from in there. If there is no side attics you will need to check behind the plaster board. A miniature inspection camera will do this or you coukd drill a few small holes in the ceiling and check. Tgey are easy enough to fill with painters caulk and fillers

    Slava Ukrainii



  • #16
    OnDeBanks
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 41 ✭OnDeBanks


    You can try "swamp cooling". Putting a wet towel in front of the fan is the most basic method. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Evaporative_cooler



  • #17
    10-10-20
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 9,388 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123752894#Comment_123752894

    This works best in a very dry environment, such as a desert or in a hot and dry hotel room. I have used it myself and it does bring some light relief due to the enthalpy of vaporisation (energy required to evaporate water).

    If you drape a wet towel over the back of two chairs in the flow of a fan, and let's say that towel contains around 2l of water, then the energy adsorbed from the room will be around 1.2kW (over the duration that it dries).



  • #18
    ec_pc
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 462 ✭✭ec_pc


    I think the best solution is air movement in and out as an earlier poster said. A potentially easy and highly effective option is to create a cross draft through the house throughout the day if possible - so have the windows or velux in the attic open and a window downstairs at the opposite side of the house. it makes a huge difference, keeping the house cool before the hotter parts of the day.

    Also, is possible keep the curtains or blinds in that attic room closed during the day to keep sun out and avoid solar gain.

    As for the Dyson fans, bought one but it's no better than a 30 euro fan to be honest.



  • #19
    Yellow_Fern
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,719 ✭✭✭Yellow_Fern


    Does the attic have gables? Are the gables drylined? Why not remove and install plaster the blocks of the gables. The added mass may provide a few hours cooling. A few barrels of water will also do this very well.



  • #20
    JVince
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,303 ✭✭✭JVince


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123748782#Comment_123748782

    That's the best, easiest and cheapest way to do it.

    Also tiled flooring (rugs in winter). - wood and carpet hold heat.

    Block any sun during the day.

    And on the fans - the extraction fan as high up as possible and the fan drawing in as low as possible and on the most shaded side.



  • #21
    Suckler
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,459 ✭✭✭Suckler


    Unless it's insulated with potential for proper air flow then you'll be pricking around with fans and water for half the year, the other half you'll have electric heaters on the go full belt creating a stuffy and uncomfortable room.



  • Advertisement
  • #22
    Calahonda52
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,939 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    The problem and solution is encapsulated in this slide

    Existing insulation has the wrong properties

    research decrement delay

    any ideas around air movement just won't cut the mustard as the specific heat capacity/density are crap in the context of absorbing excess heat

    image.png

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • #23
    Bass Reeves
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 20,755 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123757628#Comment_123757628

    If structural changes are needed, the option what you suggest uis not a solution. The walls will not provide a cooling source in summer time and barrels of water aside from the impracticality will not help either. If he has no insulation in the ceilings, during summertime the tiles or slates are acting as a heat bank and transferring the heat through the uninsulated space directly into the room a window open will not provide adequate cooling.

    In the long term if there is no insulation taking down the slabbing insulating between the rafters and along the sides and using an insulated board along with that instead of ordinary slab board should make a significant difference.

    The slates or tiles whichever are on the roof are are probably 50c+ during hot days. As the lad in the famous Harp.add said, as he dreamed of Sally O Brien and the way she would look at you, " you could fry and egg on the stones( replace with tiles/slate) here". That is like having a radiator on in the room.in mid summer.

    Slava Ukrainii



  • #24
    Yellow_Fern
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,719 ✭✭✭Yellow_Fern


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123757727#Comment_123757727

    What is the aim of insualtion here? To prevent heat in the roof entering the roof room, or to stop heat coming from above?



  • #25
    JMcL
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,653 ✭✭✭JMcL


    https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123749175#Comment_123749175

    Don't. I was in a hotel in Germany a couple of months ago during a warm spell and this was their solution for cooling. It was rubbish and control without the remote control (battery was dead) was minimal. Usual Dyson style over substance.



  • #26
    Calahonda52
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,939 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    https://unitylime.co.uk/decrement-delay-insulation-guide/

    rinse and repeat

    https://unitylime.co.uk/decrement-delay-insulation-guide/

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



Advertisement