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Sunsynk (DEYE) Hybrid Inverters

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 174 ✭✭Abromavich


    Inverter model: SUN-12k-SG02LP1-EU-AM3

    Yeah I should have realised this, seems obvious now.

    Here are the options I see:

    1. Connect all 15 South panels into a single string on MPPT2? Calculated Vmp = 15 * 30.93V = ~464V. This is outside the MPPT operating range (150-425V), meaning tracking would be inefficient (likely limited at 425V). Calculated Voc = 15 * 36.94V = ~554V. This exceeds the inverter's rated Max PV Input Voltage of 500V. This option seems unsafe and incompatible due to exceeding the Voc limit. Is this correct?
    2. Reconfigure to 2 equal strings of 7 panels (Remove 1 panel).
      • Remove one 400W panel from the roof.
      • Wire the remaining 14 panels as two identical strings of 7 panels each.
      • Connect both strings in parallel to MPPT2.
      • Calculated Vmp = 7 * 30.93V = ~217V (Well within 150-425V MPPT range).
      • Calculated Voc = 7 * 36.94V = ~259V (Well within 500V Max Input Voltage).
      • The combined input current (2 strings x Panel Imp) is within the MPPT2 maximum current limit. This seems like the technically correct and safest way to configure parallel strings for MPPT2. The main drawback is needing an installer visit to modify the roof wiring and remove/discard a panel.
    3. Move the 5-panel South string to the 'Shed' MPPT (MPPT3)? MPPT3 currently has the 6 x 435W E/W string with optimizers. My inverter model has two physical string inputs per MPPT, leaving one free on MPPT3. Could I connect the 5-panel South string (400W panels, Vmp ~155V, Voc ~185V, no optimizers) to the second input of MPPT3, alongside the existing optimized 6-panel E/W string (435W panels, different Vmp/Voc, with optimizers)? This seems problematic. Mixing strings with/without optimizers, different panel types, and different voltages on the same MPPT seems like it could be very inefficient. I like though that this is simple to implement and no panel needs to be removed.

    Anything Im missing?

    image.png

    image.png


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,463 ✭✭✭championc


    If Option 3 costs nothing, then it costs nothing to try it.

    If that is crap, then Option 2 seems like your only option



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,628 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    Could also use micro inverter(s) on the 5 panel string and then pass that through the generator port of the deye



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,888 ✭✭✭tnegun


    Or even pick up a regular smaller string inverter on adverts and hook that to the genport, it might work out cheaper and less cabling than using micros.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 192 ✭✭serox_21


    I'm considering buying this Deye hybrid inverter
    Deye 5kW SUN-5K-SG03LP1-EU
    and 12 430W-440W panels (Longi, Jinko or other brand)
    My concern is that the inverter has a max PV Voltage of 500V and 12 panels will be at the top end of inverters input voltage.(around 475V Voc)
    Will the inverter handle 12 panels on a single mppt or should I split the panels on both mppts, 6 panels on each entry.
    Does anyone run this inverter with 12 panels on a single string?



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 53 ✭✭paddy236


    I have Sunsynk-5k-SG01LP1-EU. Not sure how different it is to the deye.

    I have 22 GCL 440W Bifacial Dual Glass N type Panel. 12 on 1 string and 10 on the other string.

    466V is the highest I've recorded for the 12 panel string.

    You're probably best to have 2 strings for redundancy.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,463 ✭✭✭championc


    Better to then just parallel the two x 6 into PV1 & PV2 connectors. At least you have that perfect flexibility with these inverters

    But panels VOC can vary from one manufacturer to another. Look at the specs on Midsummer for Trina panels - great if you only have space for 3 panels and need a min 150v to light up an MPPT



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 192 ✭✭serox_21


    Thankyou all for the input. I was first looking at panels with around 39V Voc(better offers).

    Having higher voltage on a single string would help on the cloudy days.

    But also in the cold days with bright sun the Voc of panels will increase a bit. I'm afraid it can go over 500V.

    Most of the time Max string voltage with 12 panels will stay around 400V which wont be an issue.

    Going with 2 strings of 6 panels will have a mppt voltage of about 200. In cloudy days it wont even start.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 7,021 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    You can work out how much the voc will rise in cold weather, it's in the datasheet x% per degree below stc, eg a cold, clear winter morning just before it starts generating and pulls the panel voltage down to operating levels

    Cloud cover doesn't actually effect panel voltage that much. Cloud means less current not voltage, there would be no issue with 2*6 string



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 266 ✭✭insular1


    Finally got around to setting up the Deye with Home Assistant and decided to use Solar Assistant as I had a spare raspberry pi gathering dust. I've only had a quick look at the automation's in SA but want to set it up so that the deye discharges the battery back to the grid automatically before the 2am night rate kicks in so that I'm always down to 50% battery before night rate and can charge fully then. Anyone have this automation already set up with SA that they'd like to share and save me a few hours messing around with it over the weekend?



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 266 ✭✭insular1


    Actually think I have it figured out. Seems straight forward enough. Anyone see any issues with the following set up with the aim to have the battery discharged to 60% by 2am. I suppose I'll know one way or another in the morning!

    image.png


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 53 ✭✭paddy236


    Looks good. Check your max sell power and max discharge current to ensure the battery discharges by 02:00.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,463 ✭✭✭championc


    Why stop at 60% ? Why not go to 20% or lower ? What is your export rate Vs import ?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 266 ✭✭insular1


    That seemed to work as planned. I only discharged to 60% as I have a fairly large batter (45kWhr) so 40% approx is all the Deye can get into it in the 3 hour window, although I see from last night it was very close so I might discharge to 55% in future to ensure I'm maxing out my night rate charge.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,463 ✭✭✭championc


    Add a 3kW rectifier on top. Gets another 9kW added potential 😉



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 53 ✭✭paddy236


    What size is your solar pv?

    With my 5kw sunsynk(same as deye)I have priority order of load, battery, grid. I turn off the charging from the battery bms(batmon in home assistant) in the mornings so that I have priority order load, grid and then when solar PV is outputting ~5.3kW I turn back on battery charging. The sunsynk can then output 5kW to the grid and an additional 1.5kW to the battery, as the inverter can handle 6.5kW Max. DC Input Power from solar pv.

    This allows me to maximize FIT while reducing the cycling of the battery.

    I'll change it up in October to prioritize battery charge and avoid using peak tarrif.

    Screenshot_2025-04-14-17-23-32-43_c3a231c25ed346e59462e84656a70e50.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 266 ✭✭insular1


    I actually have a rectifier that has more than paid for itself when I was using the Solis inverter. However after a year of use I noticed some slight warping of the plastic on the smart switch I was using to control it and on the socket it was plugged into so stopped using it. Do you know any beefier smart switch? The one I was using was rated for 16A. If I could find a better smart switch and upgrade the socket I'd definitely start using it again.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 266 ✭✭insular1


    I'd love to set up something like that. I have JKBMS already linked to HA so could definitely turn off the battery charging. Would you mind sharing your automation for this? How are you turning back on the battery charging but maintaining 5kw discharge to grid? Will it not start sending all of it to the battery?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,463 ✭✭✭championc


    I'm using a TAPO P110. Maybe it will do the same over time.

    You can use HA to change the max charging current



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 53 ✭✭paddy236


    You can control the charge current from solar assistant. 20A is 1500w for me:

    Screenshot_2025-04-17-10-22-43-45_40deb401b9ffe8e1df2f1cc5ba480b12.jpg

    And the turn on charging in the BMS:

    alias: "Charge Batteries from Solar PV "
    description: ""
    triggers:
      - trigger: numeric_state
        entity_id:
          - sensor.xxxxxxx_pv_power
        above: 5200
    conditions:
      - condition: time
        before: "15:00:00"
    actions:
      - type: turn_on
        device_id: battery1
        entity_id: xxxxxxxx
        domain: switch
      - type: turn_on
        device_id: battery2
        entity_id: xxxxxxx
        domain: switch
    mode: single
    

    I'm not controlling the inverter from HA yet as I haven't hardened it to ensure no unintended settings are changed. But you could create a smart automation which would ramp up/down the charge current based on the current solar PV power value. And also to account for forecasted load during peak tarrif window.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 778 ✭✭✭JohnySwan


    They're not designed for that sort of load over that amount of time. You should be using a switch to control a contactor for loads like that.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 266 ✭✭insular1


    Brilliant. Will try get that set up later, should really pay off over the summer.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 7,021 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    I've used a 25 amp rated sonoff pow3 I think, to control an immersion.

    Not a smart plug. I've seen them burn out.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 266 ✭✭insular1


    Got this set up and running and decided I'd try set up that smart automation to ramp up and down the charging current. Ran into a problem in that HA uses MQTT to talk to both the JKBMS and SA but I can only have one MQTT broker. Anyone know a way to connect both JKBMS and SA to Home Assistant or am I missing something obvious?



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 7,021 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    A mqtt broker can receive data from multiple devices.

    I think I have 5 or 6 coming into my mqtt broker. But I'm moving a lot of stuff to the home assistant API.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 266 ✭✭insular1


    Sorry, still fairly novice at home assistant. When I follow the Solar Assistant guide to setting up with Home Assistant (https://solar-assistant.io/help/home-assistant/setup?srsltid=AfmBOoreG-2zSBUDbzDEuT7EZqcK8aD9-2pC7fQa-8DTsntQiHkaOyel) it says to enter my Solar Assistant IP as the MQTT broker in HA but if I do this then I lose contact with the JKBMS. Not sure how I can get them both talking to Home Assistant together?



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 7,021 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    What are you using to talk to the jk bms?

    You could point the JK BMS to the solar assistant mqtt broker too. (But if its the esphome, you could just just the HA API instead of mqtt)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 53 ✭✭paddy236


    Did you try this method:

    https://solar-assistant.io/help/home-assistant/broker-setup



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 266 ✭✭insular1


    Somehow managed to miss that! I'll give it a shot, thanks a million!



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 266 ✭✭insular1


    Ive got connected using those instructions but it doesn't seem to be actively reading the settings. I can see and edit the full list of the Deye controls in Home Assistant but the changes aren't sent back to the Deye and if i change settings on the Deye they don't change on HA immediately, can take anywhere from 3 to 7 minutes for changes to register in HA. Any ideas?



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