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Silage 2024

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,000 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    Would a run with a wuffler help that grass dry out?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,128 ✭✭✭limo_100


    in fairness there was very little waste. Few sticks from time to time as the land was reseeded in the last 2years.

    No issues with mould used the film wrap makes a great preserved bale also me was good if I recall.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,128 ✭✭✭limo_100


    I tedded out my silage that would be better than wuffling the silage.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,000 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 20,386 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    I use an inoclant, however there is always a few bales of the second cut that do not get it as I run out. I never see mould on them either. Biggest factor on preventing mould is that the bales are made tight, that you use a decent plastic and stack them on there side three high and four if you could put them up and take them off.

    Any drop in ME is more than made up by cattle spending less time having to eat and having to get rid of excess water. Cattle here doing over 500 grams per day and silage tested between 65 and 71DMD but but high DM.

    Ya but unless you own one I would not be bothered. I let silage down a minimum of two days and have no issue with a third day. Get it cut with a conditioner mower which will do the job and get it raked up 6-8 hours before baling. A contractor will charge 10-16 per acre for tedding that approx 2 euro/bale. A decent tedder or wuffler will set you back 3k+

    Every now and again I may have to Ted if weather is against me but I normally watch for a weather window. For one of the cuts every 3-4 years I get caught.

    Slava Ukrainii



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  • Registered Users Posts: 299 ✭✭WoozieWu


    what inoculant do you use

    why not make hay so if its all about DM or better yet feed straw and nothing else



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 20,386 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    The one that comes in a plastic bag in a white bucket with a green lid. Have not got a clue and I expect that most inoculants are much the same.

    Why did people move from hay to silage. It really show you have the inability to think outside the box.

    The reason I do not entertain hay, the weather window is much longer , you need really good weather for hay and grass needs more stems which reduces feed value. If we had guaranteed weather I would consider it. However you are back to tedding it twice or three times which covers the cost of the plastic.

    However I was in another yard for a good bit over the winter. He had haylage made in July/August was single cut growing since the previous November. The cows were in good condition, Two years ago on similar silage that was made during a smash and grab they were losing condition because it was basically water

    If you do not know the difference between straw and high DM well made forage then you need to take the blinkers off

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users Posts: 299 ✭✭WoozieWu


    inoculant is dear stuff

    i would remember the name of it after forking out

    all i can say is i have no young animal doing 500g adg anyway



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,000 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    @Bass Reeves would leaving it down that long not introduce a lot of losses?

    I've got a wuffler, so would be good to make use of it. Would also square up the sward for baler too.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 20,386 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    IIf You have a wuffler by all means use it. I just woukd not pay a contractor to do it. However all contractors insist on raking swards here so of its cut with a conditioner it will be in good condition 45 or 70 hours later depending on the weather.

    There has being absolutely no research done on DM or on losses in feed value attributed with making higher DM silage. Well they did one n feedingbit but they do not highlight the results.. it's all DMD, DMD DMD

    Slava Ukrainii



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 20,386 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    Inoculant is not expensive about a euro a bale in a forage that costs 30-35/ bale irs insignificant. Plastic is 3-4/ bale, cutting,baling , wrapping and raking is12-15/ bake, tedding another 1-2/ bale if you do it, fertlizer whether artifical or slurry 10-15/ bale. A euro for an inoculant is not significant. I will buy 4 buckets @ about 80-90/ bucket. Its not something I dwell.on. I used to use the agriking on e but it went very expensive

    Ya you cattle may have higher weight gains but are most of your cattle costing less than a euro a day to feed. Yearlings are costing about 60c/ day Inc minerals at present. They were getting 3/4 of a kg of ration but that was stopped over a month ago.. Stores anything from 90c-1.2/ day.

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users Posts: 299 ✭✭WoozieWu


    dm is the first thing a nutrionist would look at in diet

    where do you get the idea no one cares about it

    what do you think all the mower conditioners and tedders are for



  • Registered Users Posts: 299 ✭✭WoozieWu


    no i dont run a minimalist system and make no apologies for it but i would still have cattle costing less than that just not the majority

    im all for cost control but have you seen the price of beef

    it is paying to put weight on them if they can put it on efficiently



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 20,386 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    These are four bullocks that were in a pen with 8 other bullocks. They were put out in this scarface paddock with a bale to settle down

    First picture is probably the best bullock I have a LM off a FR he is over 600kg gained 0.7kgs/ day during housing.

    The two Friesians, are about 500kgs they gained slightly over 0.5kgs/ day. The red bullock is a Lackvaler, he is a suckler I think he is slightly over 500kgs and gained 0.7kgs per day as well.

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 683 ✭✭✭Fine Day


    How often do you weigh them. I don't have a weight cell but I think it's something we all should have. I plan to invest in one at some stage.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 777 ✭✭✭Conversations 3


    You can hire a scales from Tirlan for €50.

    Well worth it.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 20,386 ✭✭✭✭Bass Reeves


    A nutrients might but Teagasc do not and it was to them I was referring to. The whole theory about silage us preserve DMD even at the expenses of DM. When DM goes above 23-23% Teagasc and other entities think it unimportant related to DM. In a grass based system with early grazing and a silage only diet during the winter DM is every bit as important as DMD but no research has taken place on it comparing DM's of 20,23,30, 40, 50% etc. Actually DM above the mid 30's is seen as a disadvantage.

    Yes I have seen the price of beef, but you have to allow for the genetic potential of animals many cattle are incapable of growing at more than 0.8kgs per day and some at less than that.

    Even with cattle with potential above that you lose compensatory growth when they go above 600 grams per day over the winter. Cattle hitting grass in the right condition will achieve gains on 1kg and above. Grazing will reduce costs to sub 50c/ day with these days. Research has shoe that the gains achieved over the winter on cattle fed only 2kgs ration on 70 DMD silage that was nearly 40%DM ( if I remember it exactly)will hardly cover the costs. Cattle on 4kgs will be lighter at the end of the grazing season season than cattle that got no ration. Of course after publishing this once( on a online seminar during COVID).

    Yes I will feed cattle at a higher rate this year. I will start 2-3 weeks earlier than normal and contine for 1-2 weeks longer depending on where the price is.

    However it's immaterial to me where the price of beef is. I am a trader I buy finish and sell/slaughter. I take my margin. If the beef price us higher I pay more for stores.

    Slava Ukrainii



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,251 ✭✭✭dmakc


    The 2 bale-high rule is annoying this year. What's the minimum acceptable effluent store size to allow 3 high? If I placed it in the fall direction of the yard



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,613 ✭✭✭Dunedin


    I thought they could be 3 high if stored on concrete???? Stand corrected on that.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,251 ✭✭✭dmakc


    Yes, should have said I'm on gravel.

    Although I'd imagine the concrete slabs might need a route to effluent tank like silage pits do?



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,133 ✭✭✭mr.stonewall


    3 high on concrete with effluent collection. Ie channels to a tank.

    The big one to watch for everyone is bales can't be stored within 20 meters of a watercourse and this includes a dry drain



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 683 ✭✭✭Fine Day


    What are yields like this year. Walked my bit this morning and it's only midland. Patchy in places. Will be leaving it another few days as nitrogen not out 6 weeks just yet. Normally don't cut till end of May but tempted with the fine weather. Will watch the farming forecast today.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,824 ✭✭✭893bet


    long term looks safe out to middle of week after next



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,128 ✭✭✭limo_100


    I am similar some meadows are heavy and are lighter but I think I will cut this week and see how it gathers up I was planning on doing a second cut anyway. This weather is dry I don’t want it to break and be caught also can’t see them coming on much more without rain. Even tonight’s rain is reduced to 1mm

    IMG_1505.jpeg IMG_1501.jpeg

    this is a good meadow. Was reseeded last year with Dlf 4n seems to be good stuff



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 683 ✭✭✭Fine Day


    That new grass would wand a good wilt before gathering up. Have some new grass myself that I will cut and wilt for 2 or 3 days. Might shake it out also.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,128 ✭✭✭limo_100


    I plan on shaking it all out and leaving it down for two days hopefully mow it Thursday and bale it Saturday. Any more than that would be nearly too much in this heat. I shook out new seeds last year from the year before and it came in at 37% dm drier than I had though but it feed out very well



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,757 ✭✭✭50HX


    There is some variation in the length of time lads wilt silage for.

    I've never wilted for 48hrs even when we made pit years ago.

    Cut, ted & bale, 36 hours tops



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,128 ✭✭✭limo_100


    A few years ago I mowed it on a Friday was working all weekend it rained on the Sunday wasn't baled until the Tuesday and it was great stuff 74% dmd was great feeding. So after that I don't get too Hung up on all these things. I have to try and work around a shift job as well



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 683 ✭✭✭Fine Day


    I try go at least 2 days and even 3 days when heavy. Always find cattle do better on dry silage and stay clearer specially when finishing cattle on meal. But everyone has there own preference. Seen silage cut lately was baled up within 24hrs and was as green as a leak, I wouldn't like to be feeding out them bales next winter.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,148 ✭✭✭bogman_bass


    you keep making this point that there has been no research into DM but that isn’t true. There is 80 odd year of research into the matter in this country and every other major agricultural country. I don’t know why you think there isn’t



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