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Swapping electric shower for power shower

  • 28-01-2025 08:52PM
    #1
    Posts: 8,532 ✭✭✭


    Hi all.

    My triton t90 sr is terrible. Pressure is shocking. Its in an extension. In our old bathroom we had a triton power shower so no comparison in terms of experience.

    Couple of question.

    Can i use the electrical feed from the triton t90 sr for the power shower? Its got a dedicated cable to the board.

    Can i use the cold supply from the electric shower for the replacement power shower?

    I have identified a hot feed so thats not an issue.

    Ive had a nightmare trying to get a plumber to look at this. One guy quoted 1300 without even taking a look.

    Thanks.



Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,375 ✭✭✭Lenar3556


    Yes, that can be done. A 3A fused spur should be fitted between the pull cord and the shower.

    Where is the hot feed coming from? Can you get straight to the cylinder?



  • Posts: 8,532 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Thanks.

    I'll probably get a shower company in. There is a 45a switch for the electrical shower. Im not overly comfortable with the electrics if its not a straight swap.

    Yea there is a direct feed from hot water tank to the hot tap for sink. Pretty hopeful they can t off that.



  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    You will need an electrician for this. Bathroom is restricted works but apart from that the 40amp RCBO is far to big for a power shower. It's very dangerous to leave this. Life threatening danger. Your REC will put in a smaller one suitable for a power shower. Also they will put in much smaller cable from the spur to the shower itself.

    Triton novel SR silent running thermostatic power shower will give you 14 lpm. Triton T90sr will give you 3 to 5 lpm depending on how cold the water is in the attic tank. You will see a massive difference in pressure between the two showers. Also a massive difference between the the running costs. For a 5 minutes shower you will use 3 or 4 times the amount of water. This will cost 3 or 4 times more to heat compared to the electric shower



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,375 ✭✭✭Lenar3556


    Ideally the hot feed would be taken directly from the cylinder, but if the current pipe is just supplying the basin in the bathroom itself it will probably be fine.

    The electrical is relatively minor modification, most of the existing can be retained.



  • Posts: 8,532 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Thanks. Yes I'm going to get a tradesman in. Our hot water is heated via our central heating in the winter and is usually just wasted anyway. We also have solar.

    I've emailed a few local lads so lets see what they come back with.



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  • Posts: 8,532 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    When I run the hot water tap at the sink in the bathroom it gets scalding hot in a minute or so. Not sure if this makes a difference.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,375 ✭✭✭Lenar3556


    There is no life threatening danger in retaining the 40A existing supply to the 45A switch. From a practical perspective 10mm cable is too large for the terminals on most fused connection units. It is therefore often more practical to use smaller cable from the isolator to the fused connection unit and replace the RCBO. But if you were to use a suitably sized fused connection unit, as used in industry, there is no reason why you couldn’t retain the existing supply as is. The protection provided to the shower is unchanged - It has 3A overcurrent protection provided by the fuse in the spur and also 30mA leakage detection provided by the existing RCBO.

    The power shower may well use 3 times more water, but it’s not necessarily the case that it will cost 3 times as much to run, as the cylinder can be heated using lower cost means such as; off peak electricity, an oil / gas boiler, or heat pump - These are 1/3 to 1/2 the cost of standard rate electricity.



  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    3 amp spur only protects the shower. When the 3amp fuse blows & DIY Dave fits a 13amp fuse what happens then.

    A 40 amp RCBO should never be used for a power shower.

    Look you need a REC anyway. He'll reduce the cable size and fit an appropriate RCBO before he certs it



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,501 ✭✭✭✭drunkmonkey


    Did you consider a pumped shower, that'll be way better feeling than a power shower. The pump will also pressuarise all your water, so more power in the taps etc.



  • Posts: 8,532 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Can this be added to an electric shower? Or is it a brand new unit different than a power shower and electric shower.



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  • Posts: 8,532 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Just to be clear I'm absolutely not going to touch the wiring myself. My electrical skills go as far as changing a socket or plug and maybe adding an extra light fitting. I wouldn't attempt anything like this.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,501 ✭✭✭✭drunkmonkey


    Different unit, you'd need to install a pump maybe under the water cylinder that will preassurise the water in the whole house then you can fit a pumped shower, think some call it a mixer shower, think of a good strong rain shower in a hotel, that's what you'll end up with.

    https://www.grohe.ie/en_ie/bathroom/shower-collection-rainshower-systems.html



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,375 ✭✭✭Lenar3556


    Correct - and the shower is all that needs to be protected. Everything else is rated for 40A.

    If someone replaces a 3A with a 13A, the shower will have incorrect overcurrent protection. What will happen? It depends on what goes wrong within the shower and what the loop impedance of the circuit is. In an extreme case, wiring within the shower could melt / catch fire, and by extension the plastic housing. No different than any other applicance which has an incorrect fuse fitted in its plug top.

    An electrical contractor will assess what is installed currently and see what is the most efficient solution - this may well involve changing the RCBO - but there are alternative solutions which meet current wiring regulations.



  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    In 35 years of owning a shower repair company we have never left a power shower on a 40amp RCBO. To say it's not best practice is an understatement.



  • Posts: 8,532 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Would you get much requests for swapping an Electric Shower to a Power shower? Some lads I have spoken to say it's not something they have done and that usually it's the other way around for instant showers etc. Is it something your company would do?



  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    I'm restricted in the type of work I take on due to minor health issues. I'd usually have a REC for the electric end and I'd do the plumbing. Getting the hot supply to the shower isn't something I can do anymore as it most likely involves crawling through the attic. I'll pm you a number of a guy based in Malahide but covers all of Dublin.

    Your main opinions are mira vigour thermostatic, Mira Event xs or Triton novel SR silent running thermostatic power. The novel is the best of the three & has a (almost) silent motor.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 859 ✭✭✭stephenmarr


    How about a T80 mains feed if you can swap the cold feed T90 to mains.



  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Major step backwards & no increase in pressure



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,375 ✭✭✭Lenar3556


    The constraint with the any electric shower is the rate at which the water can be heated within the unit. In practical terms the flow needs to be restricted to allow it reach the required temperature.

    The pump in the current shower can develop 1.5bar, so you won’t really notice any improvement in pressure over the tank fed.

    With a power shower, the water is heated elsewhere, so it’s only a question as to how quickly it can be pumped to the shower head.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4 doranalex1


    Hi all,

    I live in a house with low pressure and the main bathroom currently has an Aqualisa power shower unit in it to get the pressure up to something acceptable. This unit is fed from the immersion cylinder and the cold water tank in the attic. It pumps the water through but doesn't heat it.

    We often find ourselves running out of hot water, so my question is: can I replace the existing power shower unit with a pumped electric shower unit? (i.e. a unit that pumps the water and heats it, like the Triton 9kW T90SR DuEle).

    • Can this new unit still be fed from the immersion cylinder like the current plumbed arrangement?
    • Do I need to run additional wiring for the heating element part of the shower? Or could it all be made to work through the existing wiring?

    Thanks in advance for any advice.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,375 ✭✭✭Lenar3556


    1. No - accepts a cold feed only.
    2. Yes - New 40A electrical circuit required.

      The performance would also be very poor vs the aqualisa - approx 30% of the flow!

      Is the cylinder being heated all the time?
      Would you have space for a larger cylinder?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4 doranalex1


    Thanks Lenar for the response. I think we will probably just stick with a power shower and keep the immersion tank heating for longer!
    We are doing the bathroom up and the Aqualisa Aquastream seems quite old and noisy, so we will likely switch it out for a bnew power shower unit.

    Would something like the "Mira Vigour Thermostatic Dual Power Shower" be appropriate? (it won't let me post a link but easy to find online)

    Would this be a relatively simple switchover for a plumber? (i.e. reusing same plumbing and electrical connections that are currently in place).

    Thanks in advance for any advice



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,375 ✭✭✭Lenar3556


    There will be some variation in pipe entry requirements, also the Aquastream is 24V, all the others are 230V - so there may need to be a new cable run from from wherever the transformer is currently located to the shower.

    If it were me, it’d stick with the Aquastream. They are actually a very good shower. How old is it? It may just need a new motor/pump assembly which is a simple swop. It would be worth replacing the dual speed loom at the same time.

    Does it look like this?

    If the whole thing is past its best, I would just replace it on a like for like basis.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 610 ✭✭✭TheSunIsShining




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4 doranalex1


    Thanks Lenar, it's an older Aquastream - I think maybe the MK2. It works okay it's just quite loud when running - would that be the pump?


    any rough idea what i should expect to pay someone to swap out the pump and the dual speed loom?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,375 ✭✭✭Lenar3556


    The dual speed loom was a weak point in the MK3 - so ignore that.

    To replace pump and motor - maybe €300.

    The MK2 is 20+ years old, so you could also consider replacing it outright for the current MK3. It’s pretty much a straight swop.



  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Needs total rewire from fuse box to the shower.

    The Aquastream puts out 18 litres per minute. A Pumped Electric Shower puts out 3 to 5 litres of warm water per minute. You will notice a massive drop of in pressure.

    MK2 is obsolete. We stopped offering repairs on it about 5 years ago. I don't believe parts are still available.



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