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Turning Off Hot Water Tank

  • 07-12-2024 11:45AM
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,375 ✭✭✭


    Hi all,

    I have a very old boiler (kingfisher ii). And a 1940s house.

    As far as I understand it, I have two zones, heating and hot water. We never use the hot water because we have an electric shower.

    Can anyone tell me how to turn off the hot water tank zone. I figure there's no point in heating it up the tank just for it to cool down.

    I can upload photos of the pipes if that would help, I literally have no idea what I'm looking at!

    Thanks!



Comments

  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,707 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    Post a picture of the cylinderthat includes the pipework



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,375 ✭✭✭Pandoras Twist


    Pipework.jpg Pipework 2.jpg

    Here's the pics. Let me know if you need others!



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,707 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    Where is your cylinder with pipework?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,375 ✭✭✭Pandoras Twist


    Whoops - here you go!

    Pipework 3.jpg


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,707 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    I don't see anything to help, but post a clearer image of the bottom third of that image.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,287 ✭✭✭greasepalm


    I would ask where does hot water come from for sink and wash hand basins?

    When our tank is cold so is the water.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,375 ✭✭✭Pandoras Twist


    we don't use hot water for hand washing. Just don't notice it tbh. We boil a kettle if we need to wash anything that can't go cant go in the dishwasher.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,287 ✭✭✭greasepalm


    On my insulated tank about 18" down from top i have pipework with tap that regulates flow of water in from gas boiler. Turned off rads get hotter as water is not heated in that tank but might have to use immersion to top it up for my shower.

    Opening up that tap more heat goes into the hot water heating and rads would be cooler.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,375 ✭✭✭Pandoras Twist




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 129 ✭✭ShadowSA


    Post pictures not so close up please so we have a better idea.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 129 ✭✭ShadowSA


    Do you only have one timer that turns on the heating? If you had two one of them most probably turns off the water heating zone.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,750 ✭✭✭Lewis_Benson


    Honestly not a good idea to stop heating a copper tank, legionella will breed in the tank, and you ever use the water for anything, you will expose yourself to it.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,375 ✭✭✭Pandoras Twist


    we don't heat it from like march until November every year. Is it not turning the tank over that matters for legionnaires rather than heating?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,375 ✭✭✭Pandoras Twist


    one control, just on and off and a timer. But at the moment it turns on both the heating and the water tank.

    the zoomed out photo of the tank is the one I posted at 3.22. That's the whole unit really.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,707 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    That last pic looks like it might be a manual 3 way valve and if so would give you the control that you need. I've never came across them around here, so cannot advise further.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 5,758 ✭✭✭blackbox


    Legionella shouldn't be an issue if the water is completely cold. It thrives in warm conditions.

    Apart from having no hot water in your washbasins, you won't have a hot press (airing cupboard to the non-Irish).



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 71 ✭✭kaizer13


    On your second picture, the pipework has the mechanical valve parts of two separate zone valves fitted. These valves have the actuator heads missing from their steel mounting plates. The actuators would normally be controlled by the system thermostats, time switch or programmer. One of those valves will control the flow of heated water to your radiators and the other valve will control the flow of heated water into your cylinder heating coil. As the actuators may never have been fitted or may have subsequently been removed, you still have the option of manual flow control. The centre of each valve has an operating spindle which can be rotated by 90 degrees in either one or the other direction. The spindle has a flat on the end and you may need to turn the spindle with a tool such as pliers, adjustable spanner or indeed, even a small open end spanner of a size to fit the flats of the spindle. Identify which of the zone valves has a pipe running to the side inlet of the cylinder. This will be the hot water valve. Turn the spindle by 90 degrees and that is your heating of the water in the cylinder turned off. You will still get water from your hot taps, it will just no longer be heated by the boiler.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,375 ✭✭✭Pandoras Twist


    Yeah never use the hot press as a hot press because the heating is on so infrequently. It just stores our sheets. I've also never found them to be a good way of airing/drying clothes. We've a covered washing line and then we stick them in the dryer to finish them off.

    Basically I've zero need for the hot water tank to even be there, let alone heated.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,750 ✭✭✭Lewis_Benson


    Sounds like a good idea to change to a combi boiler



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,375 ✭✭✭Pandoras Twist


    possibly, but I don't plan on changing the boiler until this one dies and it seems to be a bit of a cockroach.



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