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Tiling on window sill beside a shower

  • 15-11-2024 04:16PM
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,821 ✭✭✭


    I've recently had bathroom completely redone due to poorly sealed bath/shower and the sub floor got ruined so was essentially a rip out and replace…

    The bath and shower is now beside the window which was retiled however water seems to be pooling and doesnt drain away. The row of tiles beneath the window sill has developed a crack horizonal along the grout line. Also what is concerning me is that they tiled directly onto the old wooden window sill, some tanking paint was put onto it. I pointed this issue out to the contractor and he said it would get sorted. I've a few concerns here..

    There is always going to be a lot of water hitting this area so.

    Should the wood have been removed and a suitable cement board/backerboard been used? The lack of sufficient fall and pooling of water has already shown an issue only a week or two after completion what is it going to be like in a few years time…

    I dont really want tiles to be ripped off wall etc etc but ive already replaced bathroom due to water going where it shouldnt …

    Any advice would be appreiciated.



Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,255 ✭✭✭Dr_Colossus


    Can you post a picture as I'm struggling to envisage how they tiled over an existing timber window sill (sill is typically external and window board internal but that's more semantics). Did they cut off the overhang prior to tiling to leave it square with the wall?

    A window board where there was no bath/shower previously will have a flat level surface but that could have still pre-sloped with adhesive as it only needs a few degrees to enable water run off. It's not the worst surface to tile on provided it's solid wood and not mdf and well sealed/tanked. However it would have made more sense and easier overall to remove prior given everything else was replaced and use cement board or a tile backer board as you mention.

    It sounds like the main issue is the lack of slope and water pooling so that would need to be redone. How big is the window opening and does one tile cover the window board section or are there multiple grout line along it. Standard grout is not waterproof so with water pooling you're relying on the tanking underneath to hold indefinitely which is a tough ask on a flat level surface with no run off.

    The cracked grout sounds like it's along where the vertical and horizontal tiles meet. You'll always have movement along internal/external joins which is why they should be siliconed rather than grouted.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,821 ✭✭✭Xcellor


    Sorry probably didn't explain well here are some pics. Underneath those tiles is the old wooden window ledge it was previously squared off and tiled on but before the shower wasn't anywhere near so never had much chance of water going on it.

    If it was draining off it might not be an issue but it's not and it can only soak through.. won't be a problem immediately but if it gets into wood it will swell the tiles will pop off...



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,255 ✭✭✭Dr_Colossus


    To confirm I'm not a tiler so only have limited experience when I had to re-tile my bathroom after the previous owners had a "professional" in only a year prior on a fresh install. Everything had to be gutted back to the external walls and studs due to water damage leading from that tile job.

    I have a window within my shower area and opted for a single piece of 20mm quartz stone as the window board and then tiled around that. Didn't fancy grout lines on a horizontal surface even though I have it sloped and used epoxy grout throughout. You have a lot of grout lines in that window are so it's very vulnerable even if it was properly sloped.

    It's a tough call but on a fresh job like that after paying hard earned money I'd have the tilers back to re-do. The cracked grout under the window is even more of a concern given it's a flat section of wall rather than the join as I suspected. That could be related to the window board left in situe if it wasn't solid to begin with.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,909 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Looks like the wood in the sill is expanding and leading to cracks where it meets the wall. That crack will then let more moisture in and the wood will expand and crack further. No way should the tiling be run over two backgrounds like that, the wood should have been replaced with something more suitable or a tiling backing board used over the mixed backgrounds.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,821 ✭✭✭Xcellor


    Not really what I wanted to hear but I sort of knew it myself. Not sure why they didn't rip it out and put cement board in like they did in the niche. Was only when I was looking back at pictures after tanking was done and I realised they just tanked over the old wood which I'm sure wasn't the best surface given tiles had been pulled off..

    When I showed the contractor he didn't seem overly concerned but when I said about the wood underneath he seemed to think they wouldn't have done that...

    He said it probably wouldn't be fixed till new year. I'm assuming it can't really get much worse.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 773 ✭✭✭20/20


    The wooden window board most definitely has to be removed. Make sure the tiles are at an angle falling into the room away from the window, so water will not lodge. I recon that cut tile along the crack is a little over one inch and the window board is probably about one inch also. So basically the tile is only stuck to the wood and not the wall. As the wood moved so did the tile and this caused the grout cracking.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 184 ✭✭Hobby farmer


    Window board aside, that's a poor effort. The tiles aren't aligned well on the wall, in the window they are up and down and grout lines are very noticably different.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,821 ✭✭✭Xcellor


    yeah tiler wouldn't be on my recommended list!! Apparently 20 years doing it... in any case mostly just looking for a permanent job that won't fall off the wall !!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 40,378 ✭✭✭✭Mellor


    that's a really poor job. Struggling to believes its new work and not 10 years old.

    The grout is a bas choice and poorly done. It's letting water through. Tanking on the window board is not enough. The whole thing needs to be tanking. Even if tanked well, the window creates a point of failure.

    I think this will be to be at least partially redone.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,543 ✭✭✭✭Sleepy


    If you're up for a DIY solution, we have a similar windowsill over the bath and shower. I cut a piece of PVC fascia board to the size of the windowsill with a little overhang either side of the corner, used a shim to raise the back which fits against the window to ensure run-off goes into the bath and then used Tec 7 to create a seal between the PVC against the wall tiles/window surround.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,821 ✭✭✭Xcellor


    Yep when I speak to the contractor next i will be saying the wood needs to come out , cement board to be put in , taped and tanked against the concrete underneath the required fall built into the cement board so there is no need for the tiles to "deal with it". This will give a good level surface to avoid irregularities in the tiles. The grout that was used was water restistant silver grey but resistant is not the same was water proof ..



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,821 ✭✭✭Xcellor


    After paying for brand new bathroom to be done properly with emphasis on making sure what was behind the tiles was properly water tight I won't be going down the DIY route.

    I haven't made final payment on the job. To his credit the contractor has held hands up and has fixed other issues and has told me another tiler will do the fix…



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,453 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    I don't believe an experienced tiler did that job. I've done a couple of small DIY jobs and they've been better than that. No way would I use small tiles around the window either with water resistant grout. You need as few points of failure at the window as possible. I personally went with large format tiles 60cm long on my window surround and used epoxy grout.

    Stay Free



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,821 ✭✭✭Xcellor


    He was apparently experienced but an experienced tiler shouldn't put tiles down on a surface that is inadequate, this area is constantly going to be wet so tiling over a wooden surface, not putting an adequate fall is sloppy work. A single ledge/piece of cut stone might have worked better but if the job was done correctly even with small tiles and the correct attention to detail it should be fine.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 773 ✭✭✭20/20


    Your cut stone idea could be very expensive, and trying to match it in with the tiles may not be easy. Also it may always look like a patch up job. But not half bad as PVC fascia which someone else suggested. Fully tiled bathroom is always the best looking job. I have explained what the most likely problem is further up. When you talk about a contractor is he a builder or why didnt he do the work if a tiling contractor ? who has the 20 years experience you mention ?.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,117 ✭✭✭✭fritzelly


    Echoing the comments about the bad job above but shouldn't the trim have been done at 45 degrees, I'm only a diyer but its a far better finish



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