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Immermat flash replacement

  • 11-11-2024 07:36PM
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4


    IMG_20241028_104339.jpg

    There have been a few topics on this particular immersion timer, but I am looking for some help with wiring. There are two of these in my mums house, one for the water and one for the heating. One of them has stopped working and I got a replacement. Unfortunately it's a newer model and a straight wire swap is not clear. I hoping someone can tell me which wire from the original goes to which connector in the new one. Live in and neutral in are obvious enough, some one told me that NC and NO are normally closed and normally open, but that doesn't really help.

    IMG_20241028_104253.jpg IMG_20241028_104307.jpg

    New one

    IMG_20241028_103823.jpg IMG_20241028_103810.jpg

    Cheers,

    Niall.



Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,203 ✭✭✭drury..


    Think it's just 1 , 2 and 4 that

    Bundle all the the neutrals into terminal 2 , line ( loop live) into 1 and water or heating into 4

    Post edited by drury.. on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,115 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Three lives in terminal 1 and three neutrals in terminal 2 might be tight. You could move one live wire into terminal 3 and the rest in terminal 1. Then bundle all three neutrals into a suitable screw block (go for 30A and double-over each of the wires) and then run a wire from that into terminal 2.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,203 ✭✭✭drury..


    Ya I missed a brown there

    Wago make a push-fit that takes 4 solids or rip off a connector off old timer there if needed



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,203 ✭✭✭drury..


    Neither timer above does anything different to an APT which is simpler for the average punter

    Apart from the n/o on new timer . I can't ever recall a use for n/o on that type timer with the changeover linked internally to supply



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,115 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Still not fully sold on push-fits for loads over ~10A, are you?

    I keep thinking they are like Schrodinger's cat - neither connected nor disconnected whether you're looking or not. 😀



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,203 ✭✭✭drury..


    I was mostly retiring around the time the wagos came in

    I'd still use quality thorsmann connectors for the few bits I do.

    The science says wago are ok so I'd go along with that in theory

    Any "power" connections though i'd be twisting the strandeds together or doubling back the solids and getting them under 2 thorsmann connector screws like you said old school methods.

    If using wagos buy through the proper channels ie; reputable wholesalers and all should go well



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,203 ✭✭✭drury..


    Think i missed 10-10-20s point there on loading

    Just seen the poster says "immersion" timer

    Immersion is a different ball game to boiler switching

    Probably get a REC tbh if you're not competent on connections



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4 Niall31


    Thanks a million for the replies, I really appreciate you taking some time out to help me solve this.

    So if I get this right, the 3 live wires go into 1 on the new timer, (or 2 of them can go into 1 and the other into 3) . It's not clear from the picture I initially posted, but there is only 2 neutrals going into 2 on the old timer and they would go into connector 2 on the new timer. The live out on the old one goes into 4 on the new timer. The only thing I don't know is where the neutral out in the old timer goes?

    Old timer

    IMG_20241112_230033.jpg

    New timer

    IMG_20241112_230527.jpg

    Old timer.

    IMG_20241028_105059.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,115 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Neutral is unswitched, it's just linked from 2 to 3 on the old, so can be bundled with the rest of the neutrals into a good screw type connector and then a short link passed from that screw connector to 2/N on the new timer. If you get my drift.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4 Niall31


    Thanks again, I think I have enough to go on. I'll be out at my mother's house in two week and I'll let you know how I got on.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4 Niall31


    I would like to say thanks to the posters who chimed in with their knowledge to help me get this done. Got the timer wired in and it's working. This is the Internet at its best, the altruistic sharing of useful information. Making some strangers life easier, because you can. I appreciate it lads.



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