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Battery - to take advantage of 2am to 5am cheap rate electricity - v2

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,728 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    Wouldn't bother with bars between the packs, 35mm2/50mm2 cables and then merge them on something like this

    https://rfe.ie/product/equipotential-earth-bar-10mm-bolts/?attribute_pa_way=30&attribute_pa_disconnect-link=0

    But it won't be cheap, think they are around €125 for the 6 way iirc from asking for a price a while back, bit much for a 6x50mm copper bar and two legs but on the plus side they are rated 360a on the most conservative calculator site 🤣

    Post edited by graememk on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 116 ✭✭KaseLieberKase


    About to take the plunge on a Yixiang DIY Case and 16x 280Ah REPT cells for about €1,450 after payment processing fees. Seems like a good deal, but hoping someone wiser can let me know if I'm making any glaring mistake with this order.

    For context I have a SAJ H1-4K-S2 hybrid inverter and 4.4kWp solar array to go with this.

    Case Link (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/YIXIANG-DIY-16S-48V-51-2V_1601258989869.html)

    Screenshot 2024-10-01 101348.png
    Post edited by graememk on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 5,877 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    I thought about using cables, but busbar seems to be the done thing. Must be good reason for this. I'm going a bit larger than I think I need to give myself plenty of head-room for possible future expansion, or power increase.

    Post edited by graememk on

    Stay Free



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,728 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    If I can pull 300a over 3x35mm2 cables without them getting hot then you don't need bus bars 😂

    But yes if you daisy chain multiple batteries between them with short cables it is not great, they will get out of sync, saw it on the old dynesses, all of mine now go to the switch with individual cables of the same length and stay balanced now

    Post edited by graememk on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 240 ✭✭oaklands


    Confirm it includes VAT, shipping & any Import Duty BEFORE ordering. Usually referred to as DDP (Delivered Duty Paid)

    Post edited by graememk on


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 116 ✭✭KaseLieberKase


    Good shout, shipping is DDP and coming from warehouse in Poland so should be all good on that front. Only minor snag is delivery is not expected until November 15th. Reviews of the case seem good on YouTube and assembly seems beginner friendly.

    Post edited by graememk on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 5,877 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    I have been rethinking this. The suggestion to go 35mm2 cables is what I would like to do. However, I'm concerned about getting 35mm2 cable into connectors for the inverter. I've ordered these 200A connectors from Ali. If they fit, I'll order the 35mm2 cable and a couple of bus bars from Amazon to connect everything together. I already have a set of the one in the image below.

    image.png

    I'll have enough 25mm2 cable to connect each battery to the busbar joins and have the main busbar as a 35mm2 cable(s). Each battery will have a 250VDC breaker I can use to isolate them. Should I be adding a 150A in-line fuse between the inverter and battery packs?

    Post edited by graememk on

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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 7,609 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    The cables that came with the inverter will be fine, the inverter won't be able to pull more than the cables will allow.

    Of you ever get a recitifer or additional charging, it will go on the bus bar.

    As for fusing as long as each battery has its own MCB or fuse and the wires to the inverter has a MCB/fuse

    Reason I mention the inverter is that fuses protect the cables.

    Each battery wire is fused to say 150 amps.

    The inverter wires, have the potential of being able to have access to 3* 150.

    There would need to be a 150 on the inverter side too, incase there is a overload (or short) on the inverter cables. - again to stop the cables from melting.

    Post edited by graememk on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 5,877 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    Great. I know what I'm doing now. I was thinking of going to 35mm2 cable for 2 reasons.

    1. It's not much difference in cost for a total of 8M for the busbar portion.
    2. I'll eventually be upgrading to an 8 or 12kW inverter and 35mm2 cable future proofs me a bit.

    That said, it won't be much cost changing out a few meters of cable if I get 25mm2 now. I'll still wait for the plugs to see if they fit the inverter. If they do and if they also take the 35mm2, I'll go with 35mm2 for the setup.

    Post edited by graememk on

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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 892 ✭✭✭SodiumCooled


    Maybe I missed it but I don’t see any thread specifically discussing the best plans to go on that would also take into account FIT? The switcher sites don’t make any attempt to include it from what I see.

    Since I am a new build I have no feel for what our usage will be but we will in theory be fairly heavy users - relatively large house, 11kW A2W heat pump, all cooking will be electric/indiction, heavy enough users of clothes dryer with kids etc etc.

    We have a 10kWp solar system installed and 10kWh battery to go in after 2nd fix but I’m reluctant to go for the plans that are very expensive most of the day with the EV night rate incase we go through the battery too fast in winter especially. So u think probably a day and night rate might be best with no super high peak. Yuno for example looks to be the cheapest but they pay the least for FIT.

    Maybe be not place to discuss but happy to be pointed to another thread or forum. Thanks.

    Post edited by graememk on


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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 7,609 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Energypal takes fit into account. But only on previous use.

    Post edited by graememk on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 280 ✭✭curioustony


    Eco power optimiser app allows you to build a load profile based on historical or expected usage patterns. It will use PVGIS for solar data, and simulate a year. It will calculate and compare prices for whatever suppliers plans you have added. All you need is an Android device with Android > 9

    Post edited by graememk on

    🌞7.225 kWp, azimuth 136°, slope 24°, 5kW, 🛢️10.9kWh, Roscommon



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,861 ✭✭✭ECO_Mental


    I would assume you would be the same as me…. new build probably A1…I have an A1 house all electric house EV, HP, MHRV and 6.1 kWp solar. I consume aboout 18,000 kWh/year but import about 15,000 kWh due to the PV. I just uploaded my data into EnergyPal and came back with this. I am moving to the Bord Gais EV Smart as I put in 7000 kWh into the car and I can shift this load easy into the 2-5am slot and this will save me a fortune. The number below do not take this into account as I normally charge the car from 11pm (when my EI night rate kicks in) Even though the Board Gais isnt the cheapest shown here on EnergyPal, its the cheapest EV rate and I have taken this into account.

    I have also included the normal day/night comparisons as well.

    I dont have a battery but am planning hopefully maybe next year but if I am it will have to be 15 kWh at least (if not 30 kWh). Its almost criminal that I dont have a battery considering my usage..

    image.png image.png image.png
    Post edited by graememk on

    6.1kWp south facing, South of Cork City



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 892 ✭✭✭SodiumCooled


    Thanks very much this is great information, I will put aside some time to properly go through and digest the figures.

    Yes we would be similar I think from a house perspective airtight, MVHR, HP, target of A1. We don’t have an EV or PHEV and unlikely to go that route in the near term so wouldn’t be contributing to our usage on that front.

    Post edited by graememk on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,323 ✭✭✭irishchris


    Anyone here had to deal with warranty and nkon? Appear to have low capacity cell in the batch I bought in August. Freefalling in voltage when pack is barely 50% discharged. Fully top balanced pack but this cell getting worse each day and triggering low voltage cutoff. Contacted them today but just wondering how others fared with them.

    Screenshot_2024-10-14-21-48-39-807_io.homeassistant.companion.android.jpg Screenshot_2024-10-14-21-53-52-564_io.homeassistant.companion.android.jpg
    Post edited by graememk on


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 7,609 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    Just so you have some more evidence in your back pocket, a screenshot showing them all at 3.4 even 3.5v, to show that's it's not imbalance.

    I don't remember who, but they get you to send the cell back before refund/replacement,

    You can buy a replacement and they will refund you when they get the cell back.

    Post edited by graememk on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,323 ✭✭✭irishchris


    Cheers, have already ordered a cell last week which should be dispatched on 24th this month.

    Good to know the process with them and hopefully shouldn't be issue. Will grab screenshot with all cell voltages when fully charged tonight and are all usually within 10-20mv when at top end.

    Screenshot_2024-10-14-22-17-45-960_io.homeassistant.companion.android.jpg
    Post edited by graememk on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 5,877 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    That was me. The norm is they arrange collection of faulty cell(s) and when they receive, they will send replacements. In my case, I ordered a cell because I didn't want to wait longer than absolutely necessary. This meant I had to pay delivery. I was refunded the cell cost when NKON received the faulty one.

    Post edited by graememk on

    Stay Free



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 553 ✭✭✭munsterfan2


    Yes, I had one cell, sent them graph. They had me order a new cell and send other one back. Once cell sent back was received they paid me a refund. Completely painless. Shipped back using gls in the packing I received the new cell in.

    Post edited by graememk on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,323 ✭✭✭irishchris


    I wish it was that easy. Several different tests and strong of emails and latest reply from them is:

    "Arranging a shipping back from Ireland to the Netherlands so far has never been successful as the shippers system does not accept Irish pickup addresses."

    I have already ordered a cell from them due into stock in two weeks but would have hoped for a better customer service than what I have got from them so far. Hoping they will come good though after reading others experience with them here

    Post edited by graememk on


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 553 ✭✭✭munsterfan2


    I arranged / paid the shiiping from my end and was able to drop the package to a gls pickup point, https://gls-group.com/IE/en/parcel-shop-map/

    Post edited by graememk on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,241 ✭✭✭digiman


    Have the local installers here dropped their prices much in the last year? I’d like to add another 10KW to my existing 5KW Dyness BX51100 battery. I’m not really inclined to go the DIY route so don’t mind paying a bit more for someone to come out and do it for me.

    Post edited by graememk on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 834 ✭✭✭conor_mc


    I’ll have a 6mo Dyness BX51100 up for sale in Jan after my Gobelpower arrives.

    Post edited by graememk on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,861 ✭✭✭ECO_Mental


    Hi

    Im in the early stages of "dreaming" of getting a battery for my house but with two kids in college and the general flaithiúlach lifestyle of my family 🤔 it might be another year or two before I can gather the funds for one…  

    That said, I am an ideal candidate for a battery in that I consume about 18,000 kWh a year, import about 15,000 kWh, 7000kWh of that is my EV and 4500 into the Heat Pump. I have a 6.1 kWp Solar PV system Im an all electric house. 

    My question is what would you guys recommend I do given the fact also I have a 16 kVA connection so I have the capacity to pound the kW into a battery at night.

    Would I replace my existing Solis 6 kW inverter and get a hybrid inverter or would I leave that alone and get an AC coupled battery with an additional AC inverter/charger .

    Given my usage I would/should get something like two of those 15kWh fogstar Seplos kits so 30 kWh of battery storage (or more possibly with 16 kVA connection..)

    What you you do in my situation. Thanks    

    Post edited by graememk on

    6.1kWp south facing, South of Cork City



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,323 ✭✭✭irishchris


    Thankfully they got back today and due to postal prices and the fact they see now the cell is completely faulty they are going to ship an extra 280ah cell along with the one I ordered too instead of sending the faulty one back for refund. Be handy to have in case of issues at a later stage with any other cell.

    A bit iffy at the beginning but turned out to be really good customer service in the end. Hats off to Nkon.

    Post edited by graememk on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 5,877 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    You actually consume more than me. I’m at 15k units per year.

    I have 2 x 15kWh Seplos batteries and a third on the way from fogstar.

    Using cheap night rate, a single battery will easily be paid for in savings over the course of a year.

    The extra cost is the hybrid inverter, but you’ll get a couple hundred for your existing inverter. Replace with a Solis hybrid, or SunSynk, as you’ll be able to get help here for your setup.

    Post edited by graememk on

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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 892 ✭✭✭SodiumCooled


    Starting to look into this more as need to sign up to a provider asap. When I put my mprn into the boardgais site I am not being offered the smart ev plan, when I look with out the mprn I can see its urban written beside the rates - are these plan available e for rural (though bonkers does show it when I search for rural plans).

    Post edited by graememk on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,861 ✭✭✭ECO_Mental


    Have you got a Smart meter? you might not yet have activated it though the ESBN site you must register it with ESB Networks that you are happy for them to take live readings. This will take about 4 weeks where they will test the signal to make sure the connection is good. Once this is done then your smart meter is "live" and you can sign up for smart meter plans.

    Post edited by graememk on

    6.1kWp south facing, South of Cork City



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 892 ✭✭✭SodiumCooled


    I have no meter yet, electrician is just about to put in the cert and iniatiate getting connected. The info on my esbn new connection account suggested that I need to have signed up with a provider by the time they come to connect though so how does that work with plans?

    When I put in my mprn it is saying I have (or will have I guess) a smart meter but it only shows 2/11 plans that boardgais offer nether being the ev plans.

    Post edited by graememk on


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 5,877 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    You call a provider and sign up, letting them know what plan you actually want. They will put you on whatever plan you are currently eligible for (night rate for example) and then you get the smart plan when your meter is properly registered as a smart meter.

    Post edited by graememk on

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