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Hyundai Ioniq 28kWh - thread 2.0

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,544 ✭✭✭witnessmenow


    I definitely saw a 2019 38 during the week so some of them exist, but I think most 2019 would be 28s alright.

    slower dc charging (50kw), but 33% bigger battery. Depending on the journey type Im getting up to 300km out of the 38 during the summer.

    Really depends on the journeys if it's beneficial or not. During the week we drove from Ballinasloe to the zoo, then up to ikea and stuck it on the slow charger for the 2 hours we were there and got home with 30km range. The 28 would have needed a few minutes on a rapid charger.

    But if it was a longer journey that requires multiple rapid charge sessions, the 28 might be quicker than the 38



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 8,366 ✭✭✭Soarer


    Got my mechanic to swap out both speed sensors and do the gear reduction oil change. I supplied all the parts, and he charged €230 for the work.

    I also bought a new 12V battery and installed that.

    So the 2no. speed sensors cost €18 delivered, the 2 litres of Liqui Moly MTF cost €61 delivered, the battery was €102 and the labour was €230. Grand total of €411 to get the car running like it's new.

    My sister got the speed sensors in her Tucson changed by the same fella the day before. She got genuine Hyundai ones for €50 odd each. Will be interesting to see how hers and mine last.

    I'm still getting that strange "Check Electric Vehicle System" error when I turn on the heating. Doesn't matter if the a/c is on or not. Tested it today starting at 15 degrees, and the warning appeared at 25.5 degrees. Even though the little warning light appears (and stays) on the dash for a while, there's not error code stored with it. It doesn't affect the drive or the heating. Just annoying. And this never happened previously until I got the a/c regassed last week.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 85 ✭✭Borax2709


    that's great value for the sensor replacement - think I spent more than that on just getting one of them replaced and still looking to do the gearbox oil change myself!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 8,366 ✭✭✭Soarer


    Going back to my rogue error.
    Was quiet in work last night so connected my fault reader to the car while the engine was on and the error was up. Came up as some 3-way valve error. Couldn’t clear with the car running, so turned it off, turned ignition on, and was able to clear it.
    Car is error free now. Delighted.



  • Posts: 2,768 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Anyone replace their 12v battery with a lithium?



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  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators, Regional East Moderators, Paid Member Posts: 6,552 Mod ✭✭✭✭liamog


    We had that error for a while. There's a valve that's connected to the cooling system of the car, it will happen intermittently, generally we found if you drive the car with the AC on it would eventually come up. Error would usually disappear when the car was restarted, took an age for the garage to find the problem as every mechanic who took the car to test would turn off the auto climate control.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,448 ✭✭✭baldshin


    2 small issues with my Ioniq this week. Cabin fan started sounding pretty loud a few weeks ago so investigated today. Changed cabin filter which had no effect. The blower/motor itself was noisy so took it out, but on inspection there are no blockages debris etc. Tried a bit of wd40 to loosen it up but no luck. Looks like I'll have to replace. Part seems to be about €80 on AliExpress but have contacted a few breakers here first.

    Secondly, while down there, I noticed the passenger footwell was a little damp, with droplets up at the back near the centre console. I reckon the Aircon drain pipe is clogged. Anyone know if this is accessible underneath without getting the car on a ramp? Likely just needs a tie wrap/coat hanger to unclog the blockage.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 710 ✭✭✭PaddyCar


    Anyone know best place to source a front bumper for an Ioniq. Wife had a tip yesterday and done damage to the front. Thankfully no damage beyond the front bumper. Cant seem to locate any in breakers. Would a main dealer source this?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 768 ✭✭✭Orebro




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 710 ✭✭✭PaddyCar


    Thanks - Yep ive tried them - seems the front bumper is the part that normally gets damaged so difficult to pick up second hand



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  • Administrators, Computer Games Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 32,900 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Mickeroo


    I had one sourced through a main dealer a couple of years ago no bother, expensive though but the person who hit me was paying.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,190 ✭✭✭joe1303l


    Your local motor factors should be able to get you a new non genuine one. Probably be around €250 and will then need painting. Might be as cheap to get a bodyshop to plastic weld it and repaint unless it’s smashed to pieces.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 7,494 ✭✭✭zg3409


    Agreed l, my old local body shop could do miracles, they were not a fan of buying new parts if they could be repaired. Get a few quotes and physically bring car to back street body specialists.



  • Posts: 2,768 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    I was thinking about the fact I need to go to the front of the car to open the charging flap. Not that big a problem but would rather have a better solution.

    I was thinking about wiring in a 12v shelly relay and adding a shelly button to her keys. I'm assuming the switch on the dash to open it is just a normally open switch. Has anybody looked at this or at doing something similar?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,544 ✭✭✭witnessmenow


    I'm sure it would work, but I'd be concerned about the constant power draw of the Shelly relay on the 12v battery. A WiFi device with a relay wouldn't be the most energy efficient way of doing it for sure.

    Maybe a switchbot type thing would worth a try, it would probably require a bit of iot tinkering to get a button on your keys though.

    I hate that keys have a boot hold button or whatever instead of a charger port button!



  • Posts: 2,768 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Good thinking about the draw on the battery, best not add any more draw to a poor system.

    That switchbot looks like it would work, thanks.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 7,494 ✭✭✭zg3409


    You don't want WiFi, you want radio, but it's another thing on the keyring. Hundreds of times I forgot to open it first before grabbing the charging cable but it's not a big deal. Ensure auto cable lock unlock is enabled, that can be unlocked by pressing unlock twice on the remote control.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,815 ✭✭✭✭Muahahaha


    Thinking of buying the early 2018 version of the Ioniq as my next car. Could someone driving one kindly post up real world summer & winter ranges, how many kw per 100km. And what is the battery health like at 6 years old? Tia



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,489 ✭✭✭Old diesel


    Range will be impacted by things like how you use the car - short or long journeys, motorway driving or rural driving.

    And are you a hard driver or a gentle driver etc.

    A reasonable general estimate is between 140/150 kms winter and 220 kms on a nice summers day.

    You might get a bit less or a bit more then those figures.

    I find in winter you get better range if doing say 1 or 2 longer trips on a charge.

    Vs doing 6 smaller trips.

    That's because on several shorter trips the impact of heating and cold battery is more than on a longer trip.

    Range on these typically holds up very well over the years.

    Mine still gets the expected distance on the battery.

    I had a benchmark established early on (2 years old at the time) of doing 161 kms on 73 percent in reasonable summer weather.

    If anything I was bettering that this summer.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 7,494 ✭✭✭zg3409


    Worst case 120km very high speed motorway in winter, typically 160km, more in summer at low speed. Typically these cars have much better battery health compared to leaf, faster charging and CCS compared to leaf means you can use ionity charging sites etc.

    You can read the battery health yourself using a mobile phone app and an odb dongle. Typically it's 100% up to 160,000km. 20kWh per 100km would be worst case efficiency, but 13kWh/100km is possible. Main thing is not to overpay, they are probably a 10k car these days, of you buy well depreciation will be low. You can read back on my service recommendations such as changing gearbox oil as soon as you buy it.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,815 ✭✭✭✭Muahahaha


    Thanks for this info. My driving is 2 x 35km commutes a day 5 days a week, which is on national roads so never exceeding 100kph and usually doing about 85-90kph for most of it. I was wondering with that kind of driving if it could do 150km in winter on a single charge or is that cutting it tight. Im just trying to get a handle on if I could charge it to full once every two days of commuting or if it would have to be a top up charge every single day.

    yeah initially I was going to get a 2019ish 40kw Leaf but there seems to be some doubts over their battery when gone over 150,000kms so Im now looking at Ioniq instead. They seem to hold their value better than the Leaf which means paying a couple of grand more but it should be possible to get a 2018 model for under €10k.

    Will be getting an OBD dongle when Im ready to buy. Where does it plug in on the Ioniq and whats the app it connects with?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,252 ✭✭✭loopymum


    Do you have home charging? Even just where you could granny charge?

    If I'm reading your post correctly. You have a 70km round trip so you could possibly charge every 2 days especially if you use cabin preheating when plugged in. But why wouldn't you plug in every day?

    I have 172 Dec registered so almost 18 reg.

    I have a 60km roundtrip with hills. I don't recall it ever getting near 50 percent battery on even the worst day but. It will easily do the trip twice but I like to have plenty to spare or in case of last minute trips.

    The ioniq is a great car. Mine has 145k kms. Still going great. I'll pull out the obd reader when I get a chance but it was still showing at 100 percent battery last year.

    I use it for my rare trips of 700kms plus before I will take the diesel. The trips are getting a bit more frequent now so I will will consider changing to a bigger battery car next year but I am loathe to change to something with less features than my se premium



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,190 ✭✭✭joe1303l


    €10K could well be too much now for one of these ? Nissan now selling brand new 40kWh Leafs for €20K. This will surely knock back used values further on any Leaf competitors.



  • Administrators, Computer Games Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 32,900 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Mickeroo


    Have a 2019 one. My commute is a round trip of about 55km. If I was in the office everyday it would be two charges a week in summer and three in winter not including any driving at the weekends.

    Basically I do two commutes on one charge in winter and three in summer. I probably could squeeze the third commute out of it too in winter weather depending but I don't like leaving the house with under 50% battery, have no interest in driving with the heating off or extra slow and I have never seen turtle mode in the car and don't plan on ever seeing it. Generally after two commutes I would have between 55% and 60% still in the car in summer whereas in winter it's more like 35%-45% after two.

    One other thing to keep in mind, the battery % reading isn't linear, I have often gotten 130km from 100-50% but I have never gotten anywhere near that from 50% downwards.It drops quicker once you go below the 50 egardless of time of year. It's like they deliberately set it so it gives a false sense of security above 50% to be honest 😂

    Don't sleep on the car though, I could very well still have mine for another 5 years unless my range needs change. I have not noticed any drop in range or efficiency in the 5 and a half years I've had it and it's never given me a single issue. It even still has the original 12v battery in it.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,815 ✭✭✭✭Muahahaha


    thanks for the great info Mickeroo, they sound like a solid car and it would fit my needs nicely.

    I was just doing the maths last night for my circa 550km weekly use. Currently paying €3,400 annually in petrol for that distance, electric would bring the fuel cost down to €525 if always charged on 7c EV rates. So the car can save me €2,875 a year or €8,625 over 3 years of ownership. It practically pays for itself so it seems a no brainer to go EV right now.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,252 ✭✭✭loopymum


    I have 77% battery left after my 60km roundtrip today but it was an extremely warm day here, over 17 degrees and I was behind very slow traffic both ways



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31 outlyer


    I calculated a max range of 171km doing motorway 120km/h on a trip during the “summer” in my 171 model. National road commuting in the summer is well over 200kms easy. Saying that I don’t trust the bottom 10%. If you need a charge on a trip there is no point in waiting until a low state of charge just stop when a charge will get you there. Remember the car charges fast for its generation and as a car it is rock solid. It’s now the smaller ev in the house and I’ll be keeping it.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 85 ✭✭Borax2709


    Dropping to 100 kmph makes a huge difference if trying to be smart with the battery.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31 outlyer


    IONIQ speed efficancy.jpg

    This might be useful, at 100km/h range is about 210km and at 120km/h range is about 170 presumably for a new car before degradation.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 8,366 ✭✭✭Soarer


    I'm assuming these yokes have a heat pump?

    When I turn the heating on full, it only knocks 10-15km off the range on the GOM. When I do similar on our ID.3, it could knock the guts of 80km off it.



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