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4 Berth Camper Conversion - Best Van

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,730 ✭✭✭celtic_oz


    I know that table above says 1.8 for both but it isn't clear where that measurement is taken 

    Its the internal loadspace width, from UK van guide : https://www.vanguide.co.uk/guides/ford-transit-dimensions/

    Transit :

    image.png

    Peugeot Boxer

    taken from the same guide https://www.vanguide.co.uk/guides/peugeot-boxer-dimensions-key-measurements-compared/

    image.png

    Internal load width would be the most relevant I think for a width ways bed. Between the arches are similarly wider.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,747 ✭✭✭traco


    We had a Ducato Maxi before the Transit and it was wider but lower roof height. I move items that are 1,315mm wide so need the wheel arch space.

    This is a sheet that I keep in the van as a ready reckoner for what we can get in. I will check the dims behind the wood panels as that's where I would place the bed so that it utilises the skin of the van with some insulation and carpeting to get max size available. As I said other option is fiberglass pods and they are common in the US. They are regularly used on Sprinters to get the width.

    The weight here is with ply lining, tow bar and maybe half a tank of fuel. A Ducato etc might give you an extra 100kg. Looking at vans on Donedeal and some of the very long ones I think they are very borderline on being legally usable loaded with family and gear.

    I reckon a built out van needs at least 500kg capacity when full with fuel and water. Also many of the smaller vans like Transit custom, Traffic, Transporter etc can be plated as low as 2,900kg so anyone building using one of them as a base should make sure they buy the one with the max plated capacity.

    Screenshot_20240825-113630~2.png


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,747 ✭✭✭traco


    Out of curiosity and also as it was annoying me I checked the panel to panel dimensions in the Transit and its 1,940mm. Which is 6'4" by my calcs. So if you put in some sound deadeneing, reflective bubble insulation or whatever it is and carpet lined the recesses you could loose 25mm or an inch.

    It would be tight for me but possibly workable, for anyone sub 6 foot a transverse bed could be fine. More insulation would be beter so there is a compromise there but aren't all builds and layouts a compromise of some sort or another.

    I measured vertically above the center of the rear wheel arch approx 1m above the floor level. Just drilled a tiny hole in the ply lining and used a vernier claiper for the depth. That gave 120mm and its 1700mm between the ply side to side. To be 100% sure I'd like to take the ply off but I think I am close enough.

    Image below for ref of where I am talking about.

    image.png


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,075 ✭✭✭Mefistofelino


    Can't comment on the specifics of your measurements but I think it would be worth searching for any commercially manufactured conversions of that version of the Transit - e.g. Globecar - and see if they were offering it with transverse beds.

    There are a number of suggestions available online as to how to maximise the width including avoiding windows at that height (as the frame protrudes a little into the van) or even using GRP "pods" to bulge the walls out

    image.png

    I would be very slow to skimp on the insulation in that area to maximise the width. Some make very bold claims as to the effectiveness of very thin insulation materials - a miserable winter weekend isn't the time to find out those claims were absolute BS.



  • Posts: 6,597 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Yes I would be very reluctant to sacrifice insulation in that area for a transverse bed. When we got ours there was no insulation in this area and the draughts made the edge of the bed not nice to be in - which is where your head would be.

    I know at least one person who went with a transverse bed and regretted it, they only got a good night's sleep when their partner slept on the couch.

    Post edited by [Deleted User] on


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,747 ✭✭✭traco


    The US seem to covert a lot of Transits and those side pods are quite common. Swift has just lauched teh Trekker in the UK in a 5.6m and 6.0m or somthing - basically the medium and long wheelbase. I'd like to see one in the flesh and I think they are an interesting build for a couple.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,380 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    I've seen some recent conversions with spray on cork onto the metal work to remove condensation potential and then normal stick on / rock wool on top of that. The Cork being natural and doesn't come with the nasties and off gasing of spray foam.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,663 ✭✭✭Macy0161


    The pods are pretty common, particularly in Sprinter conversions. There's a couple that have a whole youtube series (self built stories) converting a transit, and they had a slide out extension (for him) on the bed to get the extra length iirc.

    I'm really on the fence on a traverse bed - I really can't see it working on a small/ 4ft double for us anyway. Albeit I always seem to have the same room no matter what bed we're in!



  • Posts: 6,597 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    If you want to spend any decent amount of time in your camper then scrimping on the bed is a complete waste of time as it will cut the amount of time you spend in it. You need a bed with something like the comfort of your own home mattress which generally means a mattress in the 100mm range with the full length of a standard bed. In such a bed you will sleep as well as you do at home - which sets you up for long stays out and good tempers all round. Compromise in any way and you will want to go home after a few days. Also be careful about your foam choice, we found our first camper was to hard with a medium foam (blue foam) mattress which I suspect is only recommended as it compensates for people underspecing the thickness. Some combination of memory foam and medium hardness foam is ideal, but failing that a full 100mm of soft foam is best.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,730 ✭✭✭celtic_oz


    yes panel to panel not much difference .. the promaster/boxer/relay just edge it I think again

    image.png

    This guys does commercial conversions and might give @memaul some ideas on the pro's and cons of each form factor



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,747 ✭✭✭traco


    Good find.

    I think the Ducato and Renault etc from the french are more square in shape so that's also a benefit. Its all a trade of between width, length and roof height and the layout you want. Then of course there is the base price of the van at similar ages and mileage.

    As for ease of kits and info I would think you will find most parts and info for the French contingent with the German Merc and VW next. The newer Mk8 Transit would have the least amount of off the shelf items and info in Europe based on my casual research.

    Most cost effective option would be the French models (Fiat Ducato, Renault Master, Opel Movano, Peugeot Boxer) as they are all the same body and I think its a galvanised unit so better for corrosion.

    Post edited by traco on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,663 ✭✭✭Macy0161


    Definitely the most off the shelf stuff for Boxer/ Ducato/ Relay from my own research.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,380 ✭✭✭✭listermint




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,663 ✭✭✭Macy0161




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