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Tesla Model 3 - V3.0

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,460 ✭✭✭creedp


    The more oil Norway exports to its European neighbours, the more it can indulge in subsidising one of its pet projects, the transition to non oil based private transport, at home. Pity we aren't resource rich here.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,526 ✭✭✭positron


    Model 3 is cheaper than 31k suggests as salaries are higher in Norway (and cost of living too I suppose). Def a great place if you love EVs.

    The Norwegian EV incentives:

    • No purchase/import tax on EVs (1990-2022). From 2023 some purchase tax based on the cars’ weight on all new EVs.
    • Exemption from 25% VAT on purchase (2001-2022). From 2023, Norway will implement a 25% VAT on the purchase price from 500 000 Norwegian Kroner and over
    • No annual road tax (1996-2021). Reduced tax from 2021. Full tax from 2022.
    • No charges on toll roads (1997- 2017).
    • No charges on ferries (2009- 2017).
    • Maximum 50% of the total amount on ferry fares for electric vehicles (2018)
    • Maximum 50% of the total amount on toll roads (2018-2022). From 2023 70%
    • Free municipal parking (1999- 2017)
    • Access to bus lanes (2005-). New rules allow local authorities to limit the access to only include EVs that carry one or more passengers (2016-)
    • 25% reduced company car tax (2000-2008). 50% reduced company car tax (2009-2017). Company car tax reduction reduced to 40% (2018-2021) and 20 percent from 2022.
    • Exemption from 25% VAT on leasing (2015-)
    • The Norwegian Parliament decided on a national goal that all new cars sold by 2025 should be zero-emission (electric or hydrogen) (2017).
    • «Charging right» for people living in apartment buildings was established (2017-)
    • Public procurement:​ From 2022 cars needs to be ZEV​. From 2025 the same applies to city buses​


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,460 ✭✭✭creedp


    Just checking did you install these on your car and have they lasted well? I just installed the front 2 and found them very fiddly, especially the metal clips. I'd be amazed if they stay in place especially driving through standing water.

    When I checked the white rear ones appear identical to the ones I bought so I've left them on. As there was slight marks on the paintwork aligning with the new mudguards, together with the original Tesla clips missing, Im thinking the previous owner had already installed front mud flaps but these had fallen off at some stage.

    I think the white look a lot better on a white car and as I now have mismatched colours which isn't great I might buy white Tesla aerosol paint can and spray them so that at least they will match.

    I was also surprised by the installation video which seemed to suggest that you detach the pin from the plastic clip and install the housing part into the pre drilled hole before placing the mud guard over it and then inserting the pin through the guard and into the housing. I followed the instruction but, not surprisingly, found the pin could get no traction so did it the traditional way of pushing the clip through the guard and into the hole. At least it seemed to get a better traction that way but I'm still not confident they will stay in place. Time will tell



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 18,687 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    pointless comparing prices like that

    My stuff on Adverts, mostly Tesla Pre Highland Model 3

    Public Profile active ads for slave1



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,671 ✭✭✭Redfox25


    Rear ones I installed in about 10 mins. Front ones, not yet as couldn't find a 10mm socket to remove the bolt holding the Tesla ones on. Plan to fit them tomorrow, should be handy enough.

    Also have them on my wife's car for a year with no issues noted.



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  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 18,687 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    IMG20240830110501.jpg IMG20240830111035.jpg

    So I fitted these there now, pretty straightforward, just to note that the Basenor front flaps do not use the 10mm bolt so there is a flap on the Tesla that can now be closed up to seal off the 100mm bold (hangs down otherwise)

    My stuff on Adverts, mostly Tesla Pre Highland Model 3

    Public Profile active ads for slave1



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,460 ✭✭✭creedp


    The basenor sure look better than the previous yokes. How did you find the metal clips? Would prefer a volt, far more secure.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 18,687 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    They appear to be rock steady, time will tell I suppose

    My stuff on Adverts, mostly Tesla Pre Highland Model 3

    Public Profile active ads for slave1



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,671 ✭✭✭Redfox25


    Its more to remove the old Tesla ones which are bolted on. The new flaps arent bolted on. Looks very neat.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,050 ✭✭✭JOL1


    Agreed (a Big Macis USD (equiv) 8.07 in Switzerland, USD (equiv 2.76 in Taiwan). All irrelevant unless you live in the particular country. As to Teslas each country has different pricing structure, taxed, tarrifs so country to country comparisons are meaningless.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,025 ✭✭✭wassie


    I wouldnt expect Ace to be cheaper (I hope Im wrong). Ive found them more expensive as they are approved by Tesla for repair work.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,320 ✭✭✭✭AndyBoBandy


    I’d never consider ACE

    Once they took an owners Model 3 from Sandyford to Finglas to repaint the bumper and the owner clocked them accelerating to over 160km/h on the M50….

    Another owner left her car with them (in Dublin) and tracked it down to Tipperary over a weekend, where it was being used as a personal car by someone from ACE…..



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,206 ✭✭✭✭User1998


    Thats a €300 repair



  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 41,858 Mod ✭✭✭✭Gumbo


    Shane in Carcraft in Fairview.
    That’s a simple fix and I suspect most will come off with a good clean and compound.

    Where are you based?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 500 ✭✭✭rodneytrotter15


    They must be on the good stuff over at Ashmore Ryder, mad quote altogether



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,346 ✭✭✭John arse


    That's what I was thinking,I thought I was missing something - and I used to run a body shop!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,526 ✭✭✭positron


    DIY it with a lot of youtube videos.

    Outside Dublin but this Drohgeda base shop has good reviews : https://g.co/kgs/8S4Dusj



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 5,627 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    Try GVD Autos. I've used them plenty of times. Tell George FTO sent you. It wouldn't be more than €300 to sort that.

    Stay Free



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 2,487 ✭✭✭Marty Bird


    Friend of mine had a similar run on a white model Y. Only cost €120 to repair.

    🌞6.02kWp⚡️3.01kWp South/East⚡️3.01kWp West



  • Posts: 2,768 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    20240328_131645.jpg

    I was quoted €1400 for the ding above.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 749 ✭✭✭Summer2020


    try car cosmetix in Sandyford businsss park . Very reasonable and good work



  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 41,858 Mod ✭✭✭✭Gumbo


    Bodyshop obviously. They quite repair and repaint.

    Get onto the dent master, Eddie Knight or another PDR specialist.



  • Posts: 2,768 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Ya it was, this was last March. Sorted already with pdr for a couple of hundred.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,526 ✭✭✭positron


    I can't remember the last time I went out for a drive, just for fun.

    May be I've had sh1te cars all along, I just don't recall going for a drive just to enjoy driving in a very long time. Probably because I also have a motorbike. I often go out to ride it - purely just to spend some time riding it, that's even when I used to commute on it - I would still go out and ride it on weekend. Because it was fun. Lean into the corners, feel the power pulling away as the road opens up, that surge of acceleration, the power to take off like rocket from traffic lights, it's just such a joy. I have never experienced that in a very long time. Until yesterday, with the Model 3. I went out to test the auto-adjusting high beam - it's a joy to watch that selectively illuminating parts of the road, I drove nearly an hour thru various dark unlit roads and not once was flashed by anyone else, so it's doing it job really well. Car has plenty of power to pull away rapidly when you need to, and butter smooth at any speeds. Negotiating the dozen or so ramps along Laytown-Bettystown-Drogheda is so easy with the one-pedal drive. Once back home car shows 118 wh/km. Fairly efficient I think.

    Well, it's not as good as motorbike, but it's pretty good for a car.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 177 ✭✭Ir3


    someone will be along any moment now to tell you your interior is bland and blah blah!!!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,526 ✭✭✭positron


    tenor.gif

    May be I like it bland…



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,320 ✭✭✭✭AndyBoBandy


    11.8kWh/100km…. Yeah that’s fantastic efficiency……

    Depends on what you pay per kWh but that would cost me €1.88 to drive 100km!!

    For some with better rates it’s less than a euro!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,346 ✭✭✭John arse




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,460 ✭✭✭creedp


    Just shows how inefficient a 2021 M3P is in comparison. Did a 466km round trip today averaging 172wh/km. Lovely warm calm day driven easy, only 110kph on AP on outward leg and 115kph on return.

    Actually while I like driving the car, there are a good few issues that increasingly bug me. Today on AP every time I indicated to overtake was treated to an warning on screen and a bong advising auto lane change not available. Became really annoying after a while. This was accompanied by a series of warnings constantly cycled throughout journey, ie various and multiple cameras not working, ultrasonic sensors not working, park assist not available and the random blaring warning about corrective steering adjustment applied for safety - so fecking annoying. On return leg I decided to give eap another go and to be honest I gave up on it, probably for good this time! When I indicated to overtake it warned auto lane change not available and disengaged eap one I changed lane. On one occasion it blared at me to take over control even though the bloody thing had already disengaged. After 3rd time I gave up.

    Finally the auto lights! I don't like them at all. On the with regular traffic they are constantly juddering left and right and sometimes reduce visibility far too much on hard shoulder. After a while I reverted to manual setting and found it far better. Funny thing is I have same set up in a 2017 smax with halogen bulbs which works absolutely fine, no juddering and always keeps the hard shoulder well lit.

    Apologies for the rant but all these software issues and poor application of basic functions is knocking the shine off an otherwise great car to drive for me. Or maybe I was in a particularly irratiable mood today😄



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,526 ✭✭✭positron


    Surprised to hear about the auto headlights - although my experience is limited to just two night drives on quiet county roads, the left side of the road was lit up all the way all the time, unless there was a car trying to pull out from the left, and most of the auto-dimming magic was happening in the middle (when the oncoming car is far away) and then to the right (as the car gets closer and closer).

    About traffic aware cruise control thing - I have to read the manual - but isn't it supposed to slow down with the speed signs? It's not for me. Say if I set cruise control while doing 98 in a 100 kmph zone, it sets it with "Max 100" and tries to maintain that speed and deals with slow traffic ahead etc perfectly well. But then if I come up to a 80/60/50 zones, isn't it supposed to slow down to those speeds? It's definitely not doing that for me. May be I just need to RTFM.



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