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Underfloor with condensing oil boiler

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3 SusanY


    ok thank you that’s interesting



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,851 ✭✭✭✭Water John


    Would only change if you're doing other house upgrades with grant. B3 isn't too bad, may just be something like open fireplace or old windows and doors.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3 SusanY


    The advisory does mention maybe external doors could be improved



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 71 ✭✭cillo2000


    We're in the same scenario. Can't get the grant for a heat pump because we're knocking all the walls. Was considering oil, but was told a buffer tank would be required for UFH? Would LPG make more sense over a 10 year period in a well insulated house? LPG is more expensive and has a lower energy density. But I wouldnt need to buy an oil tank or a buffer tank, might even swing a free oiler.... thoughts? I want a system that makes switching to a heat pump very straightforward in a few year.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,851 ✭✭✭✭Water John


    Use one thermostat only to turn on and off the boiler. Then a mixer system down to 40c. This would mean the oil burner wouldn't be coming on and off often. No need for a buffer tank.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 374 ✭✭samdeluxjones


    We have done this on 1950's bungalow, Insulated the sh1t out of it UFH with mixing valve, MHRV, good windows doors. Stat connected to boiler set to 20 so house never drops below. Using approx 1,300-1,500 litres a year heating only.

    Would a buffer tank make the system more efficient and save some oil?

    Plumber fitted a top up valve to stop the mixer making noise. This is not working anymore and pressure is 0 but mixer doesn't seem to be making noise any more so does it matter?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,414 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    please explain this

    Can't get the grant for a heat pump because we're knocking all the walls

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,040 ✭✭✭Lenar3556


    A buffer tank would be unlikely to make a significant difference to the system efficiency. Certainly not sufficient to ever pay for itself.

    Not sure why the mixing valve was making noise, or why this would be resolved by fitting what I am guessing is an automatic filling valve? If the water pressure is low that should be resolved before the thing overheats.

    Often underfloor heating systems will require some form of hydraulic separation in order to work correctly. This could be provided in the form of a low loss header, or system link manifold.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,414 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    Not so much efficiency as wearing out the burner.

    Was actually in a house with this set up and he has a much accelerated maintenance and repair programme on the burner

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,040 ✭✭✭Lenar3556


    The burner run time will be the same with either arrangement. A buffer tank will give rise to longer continuous running cycles vs more starting and stopping without. Much the same as with radiators.

    He shouldn’t need any additional maintenance on his burner, it’s designed for constant stop/start operation based on the supplied duty stat differential.

    If he has it serviced and correctly set up once a year it will be fine.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 374 ✭✭samdeluxjones


    Apparently it was a high pitched whistle (I could never hear it). The water pressure here is very high and the top up was manual ball valve and pressure gauge out beside the boiler, had to be done once a month or so.

    3 zones coming off the boiler, UFH 6 zone manifold with mixer, 4 X rads , 6 X rads.

    UFH set to 20 with room stat so never goes off in the winter. Rads hardly ever used.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,702 ✭✭✭John.G


    What return temperature is the (oil) boiler running at?, Grant and others stipulate a minimum of 40C?? to prevent corrosion so some form of bypass is required if running solely on UFH.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 374 ✭✭samdeluxjones


    The photo cell does have to be clean more often, probably once a month.

    Yes it is and only minor adjustments needed.

    It's Riello condensing burner set to 65degrees. I assume the water not used at the mixer is returned to the boiler?

    UFH only sending back 20-27, photo shows heating temp which is a thermistor taped to the UFH pipe in the concrete

    UFH.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,702 ✭✭✭John.G


    Suggest you look into that, I think that even though the condensing heat exchanger is stainless?, the main heat exchanger is mild steel and if the temperatures of the gases leaving the stainless HEX are too low then you can get corrosion in the main heat exchanger.



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