Domestic Solar PV Quotes 2022 - No PM requests - See Mod note post #1

It's going out to the grid most likely. Does you app report feed to grid separately? It should know as it increases inverter voltage by a greater amount to push current down the grid, but it can only tell if its going either to local load or out through your meter by measuring the direction of of the current at the meter, which I think is done with a current sensor clamped on the live tail. Other wise it will record all power pushed out as local use, but your smart meter should record it as feed in, which is really feed out. If you have a smart meter, you can press the button and get a cumulative reading of reverse feed. If its the old type meter, the spinning watt meter will slow or reverse as panel output reaches and exceeds local use. You can afaik get FIT with non smart meters, or you could, based on a calculation of your system output, and your recorded usage, they'd come up with a flat rate for excess. I don't know if still is the case, but its in the ESBN literature.

Yes re 'would it be better value just heat the water as needed and export excess'. Though some with water diverters here like the convienience of hot water on damage. But it won't pay for itself. Heat tank on cheap night rate if you have a smart meter.

I know your still getting quotes but I think you'll get that under 9k with (no grant or Battery)

Hi folks.

I was active-ish on this thread a few years ago when I got quotes on two different occasions to get solar panels installed on the roof of my semi-d home in Dublin. I regret not pressing go back when i first obtained quotes as prices shot up for the next few years after that, and I decided to park the idea until costs came down. I intend to get a series of quotes early in the new year, and hopefully get them installed in March/April when the brighter weather returns.

Back when I got my first set of quotes (approx. 2.5/3 years ago), the rough rule of thumb I was told on this thread was your price was reasonable if you paid roughly €1000 per kW (excluding batteries, and taking account of grants). What is the equivalent rule of thumb these days, and have prices reduced in recent times?

Thanks a lot folks!

Davidhunt.ie/solar, this should be your starting point

As the sparks is brand new to it, simplify the design and just get panels. 

So no battery and no battery-ready inverter (called hybrid inverter). You can always get a battery at a later stage. If you’ve a smart meter you get paid for unused units (called FIT). A 5kWh battery is way too small to contribute towards your A2W, MVHR and run the house. Batteries take a lot of understanding to get working properly, and he’s new to it. That’s why I’d suggest ignore the battery for now.

Don’t get a water heater either (like an Eddi). FIT makes them redundant cost wise.

Track back here to see the costs for installs. Then you'll want your sparks to be a lot cheaper. He’s learning on the job! And get a few quotes which will help the cost conversation with your sparks. To compare, look at quotes for larger systems like 8kWp with 5.5kW inverters (which is the max you can get without paying the ESB €1000+ to upgrade your connection). Smaller installs tend to cost more per kWp due to labour costs being high for all installs.

Unless you know and trust him, think twice about you being customer number 1. I know we’ve all to learn somehow. So it’s all a balancing act. That said, with just panels (compared to adding a battery too) there is way less to go wrong. 

Hybrid inverters are string inverters, they are capable of input for seperate sets of panels (strings). Better to call the non hybrid, er, non hybrid or non battery to avoid confusion. A hybrid optioned inverter could cost 5-600 more for the same power capacity. The 20 panels mentioned would not be able to output in full on a grid tied inverter,, so be aware that the potential 10KW they produce will not be available on grid, as this is limited to 5kw by regulations. Oversizing will extend your low season output though. An inverter with a partial off grid load can split the output between on and off grid, your electrician could wire a section of your house to be off grid, but fed by the mains (or a battery) during dark or power cuts. Sungrow make such models, with about 2+kw to the off grid circuit, (lights, ring main, fridge etc but not kitchen or heavy current outlets). A new build is an ideal opportunity for learning! Get the tilers to put in the hooks.

Of you don't get a battery, then you will lose out on the 0% vat element of the battery when you go to install one or upgrade later.

If you have no medium term plans in an ev, then I would certainly go for a bettery, and prob 10kwh worth.

The point about batteries now as much as anything else, is the ability to offset your usage, especially with the advent of smart metres and smart tarrifs.

For example, some inverters are very smart, they can link in to your ESB tarrifs, and decide when to charge or discharge based on that (ie, reserve battery power for your peak hours between 5 and 7).

Another features is predictive generation, so your inverter will decide in whether to charge.yoir battery from the off peak grid based on how much solar is predicted to be generated next day.

Not all inverters offer those kind of features though.

I have those, but only a 5kwh battery and am seriously.considering upgrading with another 10kwh.

If you don't go for a battery, and you really really should imho, IF you are based nearby and IF your electrician is up for it, I would happily pay you for your 0% vat battery (if it is same brand as well). Way too many ifs I know, and I partly say it in jest :-)

Aside from bathrooms - the utility where the batteries would likely sit is the only room in the house not to have at least 2xCAT6 cables 🙈. Should be possible to still run one or two though will say it to the electrician. Ideally I would put the batteries in the garage but don't think it's a runner as he said they will need to sit near the consumer unit where the cable from the panels will also be routed to which is all in the utility.

A bit of an aside but I know the batteries and panels don't work in a power cut. I will be getting a change over switch installed and I was wondering do the panels/batteries sit on the consumer side of the switch i.e. will the genie fool them into operating during a power cut?

Both batteries and panels can work in a power cut, I have a change over switch to power the whole house and had the fireman switches removed so the panels work in a power cut. Since you are not going through the SEAI there is no reason for the fireman switches as it's only required if getting the grant. They don't use them in the north or the UK.

No specifics discussed really as yet apart from saying glass glass (I think) panels are more expensive but the best and we would be going for these. Other than that just measuring etc and discussing the hooks.

Just been thinking about it (as have bought a shelly em and am looking at our usage) re whether getting a battery makes sense.

In the winter, before any car charging, we are using around 45KWh per day split 30 day and 15 night, when the car is charging that is more like 105 split 30 day 75 night .

Summer general usage will be a lot lower as the heatpump wont be in use so much.

But in reality is a 5 KWH battery worth my while? itll only run the house in winter for a few hours if i charge up on the night rate, that would be longer in summer but youd generate plenty of solar anyway and could sell the rest to the grid....

Thanks!

yes i only charge once or twice a week (big battery 86.5KWH)

heatpump is currently set to heat water at night, unfortunately my dishwasher doesnt have a time delay but will move as much as i can to night rate.

the charger is set to only charge during the night rate window so if it needs a top up the next evening it gets it.

The ESB do 👊

So the limit is 5 kw export. This implies the maximum input of the inverter in terms of voltage and current. Too many panels and you are in danger of breaching the maximum input no load voltage. Choice of panels will optimise this. Hybrid inverters generally can output greater than 5kw, 5 to grid and maybe 2 to battery. If you want to output max to grid and additional to home consumption, you can spilt your home circuits into on and off grid. (a trivial job at the consumer unit). You can then buy an inverter with and off grid branches, such as the Sungrow, or install an extra low cost non hybrid. One on grid and one off, panels spilt between them. Off grid would give power backup during a failure from panels, from the battery if it was hybrid. I'd imagine you'd be fleeced by installers for this second option though, even if it only involves maybe a €500 extra unit.