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The Great Big Lawnmower Thread

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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,520 ✭✭✭deezell


    Fwiw, the parts list itemised individual parts for the head, so if you have the original, it could be repairable (though only if a cheap part broken), casing alone £80 odd.



  • Registered Users Posts: 238 ✭✭kaiserrussel


    Hi there Stiga 5092 owner, hoping someone can help. What are the sensors/safety features that prohibit starting the mower? I must have knocked something out as I Cant start it and by start I mean the engine doesn’t even turn for the last few days. It was going fine and when I stopped I couldn’t restart it

    So my thinking was some sensor or safety feature must be effected any advice?


    thanks I’m advance



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,295 ✭✭✭Dohvolle


    The seat would be the first place to check. Most won't start without a weight on the seat. A little switch underneath perhaps, blocked by something?



  • Registered Users Posts: 238 ✭✭kaiserrussel


    good catch I should have clarified I checked that out already



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,520 ✭✭✭deezell


    page 34. There are two microswitches which will break the power to the starter, seat and brake pedal (or gear neutral on manual transmission). There are two fuses on a fuse holder, item 12, forward of the steering, a 10a and a 25a. Check these. Check the battery connectors also. If the front lights still work with ignition on but no start, then battery connection is ok, so then it can only be connectors, fuses, starter switch or solenoid.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 238 ✭✭kaiserrussel


    Thank you for this - interesting to note I felt that the brake pedal seems off someway and not operating properly when I tried earlier so I guess that’s the issue some how and that aligns with your guidance above

    will take a closer look at it tomorrow


    cheers for the advice



  • Registered Users Posts: 526 ✭✭✭coillsaille


    Thanks Deezell. Those prices are making me think I might just get a cheap Chinese one off Amazon after all!



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,520 ✭✭✭deezell


    I'd recommend smallengineparts.ie, it's an Irish company, it's less likely to be total Chinese shyte, they would sell these to people with serious price strimmers like yourself, and you would have a warranty as a non commercial use customer. Other respected Irish parts sellers like Atkins, Forest & Garde, sell these as specific Stihl replacements, (though it fits other brands), and charge around €90+, so the one I linked is well priced. Amazon doesn't necessarily mean quality, many products are just 'drop mail' suppliers for Ali sources.



  • Registered Users Posts: 526 ✭✭✭coillsaille


    Yeah I think you're right, I'll go with smallengineparts. The one I found on Amazon which will fit works out around €30 and might well end up breaking after a couple of uses. So better of paying €60 to smallengineparts for one that's better made and might last a reasonable length of time.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,281 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    I've read about your issues before with strimmer gearheads. I've done masses of work with all sorts of strimmers and never damaged the bevel gears. I have had issue with the casing on one, but that is a well know fault and mostly fixed with a jubilee clip. I did several weeks really rough work last year with a bramble head https://www.amazon.co.uk/295504-0-Universal-Mulching-Brushcutter-Husqvarna/dp/B00RZH0V4G/ on a cheap 5yo chinese 43cc machine and did it no harm.

    So what exactly are you doing to damage them? I assume you aren't running it with material wrapped around the top of the head (tends to melt the head in bad cases rather than damage the bevel gears but can burn up the grease quickly) and top the gear grease up occasionally?

    Wake me up when it's all over.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 526 ✭✭✭coillsaille


    For the past few years I was using one of those cheap 43cc machines under the brand name Parker. The original gearhead broke when using the very same mulching bar that you linked to above. I then went through several cheap replacement gearheads off Amazon which never lasted long, maybe that's when I posted about the issue, I can't remember to be honest.

    Needless to say, of course I stop as soon as anything gets wrapped around the head of the strimmer. I decided to invest in the Stihl rather than buying another cheap gearhead every couple of months, the problem was with the replacement gearheads not with the Parker strimmer.

    Anyways, the latest twist is that it turns out the Stihl gearhead isn't broken after all. I was using it with this head when it suddenly stopped spinning when put against the growth.

    So I presumed that once again it was a broken gearhead. When Deezell said you could get individual parts for the gearhead if I could identify which bit was broken I decided to have a closer look today. I couldn't identify any break so I put the whole thing back together, put on a regular line spool and it worked fine. So I've no idea why the other head above stopped working unless the retaining nut loosened, although I didn't notice that it seemed loose when taking it off.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,520 ✭✭✭deezell


    Great conversation. It would seem to reinforce my belief that that gearheads on the cheaper strimmers, or maybe I should say cheap replacement gearheads, are definitely at risk from an impact strike. The energy stored when the blade is spinning at full revs unloaded is considerable, stopping this blade dead against a root or a thick branch transfers all this to the casing and gears, which will spilt a poorly manufactured product. Perhaps your Stihl spun the blade on the shaft a few times from impact, until it loosened the grip of the bolt and thrust plate/washer. Good news anyway.



  • Registered Users Posts: 526 ✭✭✭coillsaille


    I reckon you're right Deezell. It wasn't a solid blade I was using at the time but one of those fixed heads where you insert pre-cut lengths of line. The line is very thick so the same principle applies that you mentioned, when it goes from spinning freely at full revs to suddenly hitting a resistant object there is going to be an impact. Especially if the tip of the line locks around a slender object such as a hogweed stump, which is what I think happened.

    Post edited by coillsaille on


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,581 ✭✭✭karlitob


    Hi all


    Appreciate some advice about a replacement blade adaptor.

    So I’ve a ‘pro lawn’ 51cm petrol lawnmower - a woodies special from 10 years ago. B&S 675EX engine. They no longer sell them and woodies have been less than helpful, no reply from the company

    It’s been through the wars and owes me nothing. But I’ve hit the blade off something and caused the nipples on the blade adaptor to be damaged so I need a new blade adaptor and while I’m at it I was hoping for one that would suit a common blade type (Oregon or something similar).


    I contacted a lawnmower parts shop and the (very helpful) chap I was dealing with said that they blade adaptors are lawnmower specific. I’m not sure why I’m finding this hard to accept. I know there’s different types but I would’ve thought there’d be one I could find that would work.


    It fits into a 21.8mm (⅞ inch) crankshaft and has a 4.7mm flywheel key. Pictures attached.


    Really appreciate any help or guidance. Seems an awful shame not to be able to repair this and I really don’t have the money for another lawnmower. Thanks all.




  • Registered Users Posts: 6,520 ✭✭✭deezell




  • Registered Users Posts: 6,520 ✭✭✭deezell


    That exact holder with the oval retainer lugs is often imaged in searches for Hecht mowers, a clone of Cobra mowers. Frustratingly, parts seem confined to sales in the Czech Republic, and Switzerland, as I had been trying to obtain well priced parts for a Cobra, and they wouldn't deliver here. Delivery from UK sources for Cobra also rare since brexit.

    Can I suggest that the holder is not so badly damaged that you couldn't repair it. A decent application of a cold chisel and hammer will reform the lug protrusions to mate with the blade holes. Fix the holder to the blade off the mower with a suitable nut and bolt and tighten down with the blade holes aligned over the holder nipples. Place on the jaws of a vice and whack the ovals edges with a 10-15 mm cold chisel to reform the metal down into the blade holes. A mm or two protrusion is all you need. The holder plate is mild steel, so will take a good whack without splitting. I'd assumed the plate had came away from the shaft in the first photo, my bad, but it appears to be still all in one piece?

    I see several entries on the Woodies site for that holder, same picture for different mowers sizes, I'm guessing its the same. Delivery only, €10 +€5 postage

    https://www.woodies.ie/catalogsearch/results?query=Blade+adapter



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,281 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • Registered Users Posts: 74 ✭✭Zverklez


    Do people think it is worth staying clear of multi-tools like this? I used this exact one over the weekend and found it to be surprisingly good as a strimmer, albeit a bit heavy.


    https://www.corebuild.ie/proplus-5pce-33cc-multi-function-petrol-garden-tool



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,894 ✭✭✭Lewis_Benson


    I have the Parkside one from Lidl, it's a fine unit, all 3 tools work well.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,566 ✭✭✭ZeitgeistGlee


    https://www.screwfix.ie/p/mountfield-hp185-46cm-139cc-hand-propelled-rotary-petrol-lawn-mower/340rj

    For anyone in the know would that be a decent lawnmower for a small front and back garden? Old Harry lawnmower I was using gave up the ghost a few weeks ago and my heart (and back) is broken from using a strimmer to do the job in lieu. Alternatively if the lawn is small enough (35-40m2 roughly probably) would I be as well off to look at a battery mower to do the job and if so would anyone have any reccs for a budget between 200-300 quid.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,476 ✭✭✭gnolan


    Looking for a similar recommendation. Garden is about 150m2. No need to be self-propelled. Budget is €250-300. I'm thinking I'd prefer a petrol mower over battery-powered.



  • Registered Users Posts: 51 ✭✭ShadowSA


    Otherwise the ego equipment is really good. Ego battery powered lawn mower.



  • Registered Users Posts: 659 ✭✭✭ABitofsense


    What diesel tractor lawnmower would people recommend? I've an acre of a lawn and easy access to diesel (have a farm) so thinking this be easier route. I'm thinking of a Kubota GR1600-II (2nd hand). Budget be around 8k.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,520 ✭✭✭deezell


    Clarke of Cavan have a year old (but probably two seasons) one for €9000. For an acre. Its a bit like buying a sledgehammer to crack a nut, but you're getting a commercial machine. If your acre is inclined to be soft, and it is a lawn, not a paddock, be aware of the extra weight and compaction of this machine. Something lighter might be better, and the running cost of a petrol machine will be trivially greater than the saving using agricultural diesel.



  • Registered Users Posts: 659 ✭✭✭ABitofsense


    Thanks for the reply. Bit of rethink for me.

    What would be the best petrol be? Brother has a husqvarna 342T which I use currently but struggles with wet/damp grass which can be frustrating. Hence my thinking around stronger diesel models



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,520 ✭✭✭deezell


    Lifting wet grass and blasting it through the bagging chute is all about the velocity of the blade tips and the amount of turbine built into the blade shape, how much like a propeller it is. Some mowers may have extra fans atop the blades. My 50 inch cut Viking (now branded as Stihl) only sticks if the grass is very wet and I go too hard, or if its covered with damp leaves at this time of year. A Honda like this 25hp 48" versamow might be a good buy for under your budget, they have some serious models with mulch on a lever that let's you select it on the fly. https://monaghanhire.com/products/honda-hf2625-hme-ride-on-lawnmower-25hp

    I suppose you could inspect the grass chutes to see which one is the biggest. Others here might have good advice on sticky or otherwise baggers. For €8k you're looking at the premium end of most brands,



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,111 ✭✭✭rob w


    Hi all,

    Have a few questions about lawnmower maintenance over the winter. This is the first season I have had a ride-on so just want to get it right

    • I have already cleaned the lawnmower thoroughly and taken all the gunk off the underside
    • I have taken off the blades and sharpened and oiled them.
    • I have the battery removed and on a trickle charge


    • I have ran the lawnmower until fuel ran out (maybe not the best idea in hindsight) - Should I drain this also, or do I need to do that now?
    • What do i need to do with the engine oil - do i need to change it now or just before the next season?
    • Oil filter, Air filters?
    • Spark plug?
    • Anythign else I am missing?

    Thanks in advance



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,281 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    Ideally change the oil and oil filter now so old oil isn't sitting in the engine. But you'll need to start it again to warm the oil up to change it. Most people don't bother changing the oil now but its best practice.

    You could use a liter of Aspen fuel to run the engine and leave that in overwinter as it doesn't degrade like normal petrol.

    Again you don't have to but air filter and spark plug are worth replacing each year.

    Wake me up when it's all over.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,295 ✭✭✭Dohvolle


    If you live somewhere that will see lots of snow and ice over winter (more than the rest of the country) Its worth running it dry of petrol, but petrol only gels in carbs in extreme cold, and Ireland rarely sees that big freeze, and if the mower is stored in a shed, would probably never get that cold. The bigger risk here is the condensation that forms in a fuel tank normally, when it cools becomes water, and drops to the bottom of the tank. In that regard, if you aren't going to empty the tank, instead fill it to the top, so condensation has nowhere to settle during storage. In normal use this condensation gets "burped" out of the system (any time your working lawnmower coughs in normal use). You don't want to try to start a mower after a winter of condensation though.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,281 ✭✭✭The Continental Op


    RE: Aspen Fuel - Aspen 4

    Long shelf life - unlike pump fuel which deteriorates in quality after 30 days, Aspen fuel will last for up to 5 years and can happily be left in the machine through winter storage without any risk of damage to the machine or difficulties starting when it is time to use it again.

    https://tennysonlawnmowers.ie/index.php?route=product/category&path=103

    It is however expensive at nearly €10 a liter (about €40 for a 5l can).

    Wake me up when it's all over.



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