If your fuel filter is just an inline one, these are generic and easily obtained from any mower shop or online, generally onec size fits all, but measure the spigot diameters either side. Usually your mower is supplied with a a extra handbook for the engine, where the air and oil filters are listed by part number. Googling these will show up brand name replacements as well as generics. The engine id plate should have the engine name and series number from which you can trace online data to get the filter part no. What is written on the existing filter itself? They're generally standard screw on format with a common diameter used in a millions if different engines. The only variable is the depth, which you can measure, and if the filter has a buiit pressure relief which is common in small mower engines.
A quick look a the spec says the engine is a Stihl EVC 7000, the manual for this iists the air filter and spark plug part nos , but not the fuel and oil filters. Stihl are a bit like that about part nos, but I think its 0004 020 9602 for the oil filter.
The engine is a kawasaki afaik, a bit of digging will identify these, or just read whatever is printed on and do a search.
@deezell (or anyone else who might have an answer), looking for a bit of help getting service parts - fuel and oil filters, etc for my Stihl rt5112z ride-on. It's the model with the Stihl engine rather than the Briggs&Stratton engine which used to be in these. I've had a look online but no luck and too many results coming up about the mower itself but no mention of parts on any website selling the machine it seems. The company I bought it from (which is based a long distance from me) does have a service kit on their website but it's for the rt5112z with the B&S engine not the Stihl engine. I'm presuming the service parts would be different sized for the different engines?
Edit to add: I've emailed the company couple of days ago but yet to hear back.
Any help greatly appreciated as ever.
Looking for a lawnmower for life. Pretty small garden in an estate, I previously had a briggs and stratton/castlegarden push lawnmower, it was perfect, unfortunately I learned too late how to maintain it. Serviced it, got it running great, but the deck was rusted through by that stage. I dismantled it and was going to patch the hole with fiberglass and resin... but it's just too big of a job for me. So would like to start again.
I am looking for a petrol mower that will last if I service it correctly and (this time) clean out the deck at least between seasons.
I don't need self propelled, garden is small and it is an additional faff that can go wrong.
Do I strictly need a petrol one? the grass can be quite long for the first cut of the season, will electric ones have the power? will they last?
I was recommended a weibang a while back,
This one is as far as my budget would go, (EUR: 360) would it be serviceable?
I almost bought this on an impulse at the weekend (it was on sale for EUR: 199)
is it an utter piece of crap?
Poor spade connections on the wiring have dogged my instart mower since new. I never know when it'll go click click, but wiggling the wiring while holding down the bar and pressing the starter (requires 3 arms and hands, I know), sorts it till the next time. Battery lamps don't flash though. That only hapoend me on a first use last spring, very cold and batteries were in the garage . Both read 4 green lamps, both went into flat and flashing as soon as I pressed start. Kept them indoors for a good while then charged. Started no problem. Generally, I think it's a poor system, as a current surge failsafe the batteries to 'off' too easily, like on a cordless drill.. An old fashioned lead acid battery will just grunt and turn slowly. Rotate the blade a little to maybe give the pinion a better chance of engaging.
Click Click = dead battery/solenoid/starter motor/wiring
Yeah, tried that. I put it back in the charger for 30 mins until it was fully charged. No luck though on the mower. It seems to drain down quickly as well when I try to start it each time
Bring the battery indoors to warm up, then give it a little time on the charger. Those instart batteries don't like the cold.
Today I tried to start my lawn mower (with instart battery ignition). All I hear is a clicking noise and all the green lights on the battery flash repeatedly.
I did take off the blade and sharpen it, so the mower was on its side for a few mins. Could I have flooded a part of it with oil/fuel? The Spark Plug looks OK as well, but maybe needs to be replaced? It worked perfectly before I sharpened the blade.
Any ideas?
Thanks for that - much appreciated.
I take your point. Something that will hopefully last years so happy to spend a bit to get right one.
Would you go for this one which seems to have a connector (as well as the normal battery clamps)
Or something like this
Yes, Optimate brand. Cost 70-100 depending on model and capacity, but can nurse nearly any type and capacity back to life. Mine has saved and prolonged batteries from mowers to motorbikes to stop start AGMs to a very pernickety auxiliary battery in a lexus hybrid which refused a standard charger.
The cheapo China one from amazon will probably do most of the same stuff, or will appear to, until it doesn't someday, and maybe toasts your battery. If you're only ever going to use it on the mower, it'll do the job.
Would this be suitable to charge battery on a castelgarden xdc 150hd?
or is there something else that would be better?
You could also pay a landscaper just once to raze it with a commercial zero turn.
^^ I second that. What's the point spending thousands for another machine while hired pro would do the same for a fraction of the price? Especially that's more than likely once-off job.
You can generally get through overgrown grass with a ride on by using a combination of the highest cut, slow speed and only cutting a portion of the width on each pass, half or third. It might be tedious, but beats faffing around with a walk behind. You could also pay a landscaper just once to raze it with a commercial zero turn. Life's too short.
Can anyone recommend a decent mower to cut long (possibly wet when time comes) grass in a large area? I have a Solo Alko ride on (2 yrs old) - but going into the new year, the grass is quite long and wet already (wasn't able to cut the grass full season due to medical issues - finished in early October) so when the season begins I will have a real job on my hands and the ride on will not manage it, just wondering what would be best to invest in to get the first few cuts out of the way with minimal problems, a brushcutter / strimmer on wheels? or is there a decent self propelled mower that would do this? Was looking at the likes of this online: https://mower.ie/product/orec-gr537pro-self-drive-lawnmower?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAs6-sBhBmEiwA1Nl8syFA--Z9jZtngekuz8g3e97Ee8_I0ZohzGkRACUxqxpl1dMkfWsCAhoCx_EQAvD_BwE - but it's pricey, even though it says it will manage long wet grass, any opinions or advice would be most welcome, thanks in advance,
Also don't over tighten the bolts on the OHV cover. They are thin metal and if you over tighten them the metal deforms and you get leaks. You can still remove the cover fully and hammer the mating surface out flat. I know from experience :-(
Ok great, thanks a million for that advice. I'm 99% sure it had a gasket on it. I just popped the cover straight back on when I spotted the oil, so didn't get a good look. I'll keep an eye though on next run, thanks again.
OHV - Over Head Valve
Those sometimes don't have a gasket and instead use silicon sealant. Check after next use that its not leaking a bit of oil if it is replace gasket or clean it all up and use fresh silicon sealant.
Don't worry about the spilt oil the valve cover will always have a drop of oil in it as it gets lubrication along with the rest of the engine.
Thanks, have those few bits done now.
Anyone know what this OHV box is on the front of the engine? ...it's a Stiga ST400 engine. Naively opened it to see what was inside and about 10 or 20 Mls of oil dripped out the bottom.
RE: Aspen Fuel - Aspen 4
Long shelf life - unlike pump fuel which deteriorates in quality after 30 days, Aspen fuel will last for up to 5 years and can happily be left in the machine through winter storage without any risk of damage to the machine or difficulties starting when it is time to use it again.
https://tennysonlawnmowers.ie/index.php?route=product/category&path=103
It is however expensive at nearly €10 a liter (about €40 for a 5l can).
Ideally change the oil and oil filter now so old oil isn't sitting in the engine. But you'll need to start it again to warm the oil up to change it. Most people don't bother changing the oil now but its best practice.
You could use a liter of Aspen fuel to run the engine and leave that in overwinter as it doesn't degrade like normal petrol.
Again you don't have to but air filter and spark plug are worth replacing each year.
Hi all,
Have a few questions about lawnmower maintenance over the winter. This is the first season I have had a ride-on so just want to get it right
Thanks in advance
Lifting wet grass and blasting it through the bagging chute is all about the velocity of the blade tips and the amount of turbine built into the blade shape, how much like a propeller it is. Some mowers may have extra fans atop the blades. My 50 inch cut Viking (now branded as Stihl) only sticks if the grass is very wet and I go too hard, or if its covered with damp leaves at this time of year. A Honda like this 25hp 48" versamow might be a good buy for under your budget, they have some serious models with mulch on a lever that let's you select it on the fly. https://monaghanhire.com/products/honda-hf2625-hme-ride-on-lawnmower-25hp
I suppose you could inspect the grass chutes to see which one is the biggest. Others here might have good advice on sticky or otherwise baggers. For €8k you're looking at the premium end of most brands,
Thanks for the reply. Bit of rethink for me.
What would be the best petrol be? Brother has a husqvarna 342T which I use currently but struggles with wet/damp grass which can be frustrating. Hence my thinking around stronger diesel models
Clarke of Cavan have a year old (but probably two seasons) one for €9000. For an acre. Its a bit like buying a sledgehammer to crack a nut, but you're getting a commercial machine. If your acre is inclined to be soft, and it is a lawn, not a paddock, be aware of the extra weight and compaction of this machine. Something lighter might be better, and the running cost of a petrol machine will be trivially greater than the saving using agricultural diesel.
What diesel tractor lawnmower would people recommend? I've an acre of a lawn and easy access to diesel (have a farm) so thinking this be easier route. I'm thinking of a Kubota GR1600-II (2nd hand). Budget be around 8k.
Otherwise the ego equipment is really good. Ego battery powered lawn mower.
Looking for a similar recommendation. Garden is about 150m2. No need to be self-propelled. Budget is €250-300. I'm thinking I'd prefer a petrol mower over battery-powered.
https://www.screwfix.ie/p/mountfield-hp185-46cm-139cc-hand-propelled-rotary-petrol-lawn-mower/340rj
For anyone in the know would that be a decent lawnmower for a small front and back garden? Old Harry lawnmower I was using gave up the ghost a few weeks ago and my heart (and back) is broken from using a strimmer to do the job in lieu. Alternatively if the lawn is small enough (35-40m2 roughly probably) would I be as well off to look at a battery mower to do the job and if so would anyone have any reccs for a budget between 200-300 quid.
I have the Parkside one from Lidl, it's a fine unit, all 3 tools work well.
Do people think it is worth staying clear of multi-tools like this? I used this exact one over the weekend and found it to be surprisingly good as a strimmer, albeit a bit heavy.
https://www.corebuild.ie/proplus-5pce-33cc-multi-function-petrol-garden-tool
