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Dairy Chitchat 4, an udder new thread.

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,438 ✭✭✭jaymla627


    A good trick I was told was to bomb-wash the parlour go with 2-4 liters of a chlorine based detergent depending on parlour size and put in 2kgs of caustic powder aswell on a hot wash, rinse out then with peracetic and then do a second hot wash with a good descaler and more peracetic in the final rinse, to wash out any chlorine deposits if your a Tirlain supplier if your unfortunate enough to get a chlorate test when doing the above they will suspend collection and make you dump milk till you get 3 clear tests



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,491 ✭✭✭Tonynewholland


    I've seen plate coolers blocked with maize where the parlour was being washed down as the machine was washing.



  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 3,632 Mod ✭✭✭✭K.G.


    A fella told me before that he drops a few litres of paracetic acid into the wash and runs out of the parlour and let it wash away and it cure s any thermoduric problem. Its deadly stuff and has some bang off it but be very careful with it



  • Posts: 214 ✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Thanks for all the advice. Last year my detergent sales man provided me with enough chlorine for one days wash and problem was solved but his gone now so I don’t know if I’ll still be able to get it. Theirs something fundamentally wrong somewhere. I follow all the instructions I was given about what products to use and amounts. It’s all hot washes bar 3 or 4 evening a week. Vacuum line was cleaned out less than 12 months ago. I’m going to have to get an outsider to come in. I find milk advisors from co-ops not much good so it won’t be them. Those chlorine products were brilliant at cleaning.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,434 ✭✭✭cute geoge


    Talk to your milking parlour service man, he will have the best idea .Check the bulk tank is so clean that you can see yourself



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,570 ✭✭✭Mooooo


    Can pick up circodine p in local agri shop down here. I use it away in machine, haven't failed any chlorine test but i do two rinses after milking and two rinses after the detergent if using it. Electric milk pumps don't empty the system the way the old double diaphragm pumps did so a split or double rinse to reomove residue is important.

    May be no harm to give the bulk tank a second wash after next collection as well or have a look inside it, just be careful if looking inside think a lad for stuck upside down a few years back checking his tank



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,975 ✭✭✭✭mahoney_j


    Avoid the coop reps sending out reps from likes of deosan etc …go to an i dependant supplier like ark farm solutions in Wexford ….they have products that work …don’t break the bank …don’t require everyday hot washes and crucially a very good back up service ….they will come out access where potential issues are and solve them

    I went thru numerous expensive ch free detergents …heap of hot washes before someone reccomended tgem to me and if there’s issues now it’s usually down to me letting a drum run out etc



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,553 ✭✭✭Grueller


    Have you a tap on the vacuum line to allow you to suck an acid descale through the vacuum line? If not get one fitted and get your parlour tech to show you how to use it. I had the same problem and that cured it..



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,668 ✭✭✭cjpm


    Chap I know was working up the yard while his dad was washing the milking machine. Suddenly he saw a load of smoke coming from the dairy so he ran down.

    It wasn’t smoke but some sort of dangerous gas, that was coming out of the machine, as the father had mixed two completely different chemicals.

    So don’t do anything too mad trying to cure the TBC



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,570 ✭✭✭Mooooo


    If you mix an acid and base( caustic or chlorine based) Chlorine gas can be released and can kill so important to rinse between any type of wash if done one after the other

    Nearly caught someone out trying to clear a sink when they put a small amount of caustic down after the bleach didn't work



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,808 ✭✭✭older by the day


    I had a problem with my brand new tank on its second year. If you shone a light after it finished washing there was a scale on it. I have a descaler and detergent I use this https://www.mccabefeeds.com/product/hydrosan-liquid-25kg-asepto-cool?gad=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_5unBhCMARIsACZyzS1MyqiSsAu1UZ7lP_h8ZZvK0aC4En-JWEUo_Qt6KRYmASk8Bhy7q2UaAttQEALw_wcB

    There is a bit of chlorine but the TCM test is only two. I'm chlorine free for the milking machine. Don't get caught because I said so.

    If you have hard water like me. You need to give more chorine free detergent than the directed rate

    Plenty of different detergent on line and in dependant hardware stores. Check the tank after washing that's my 2cent worth.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,699 ✭✭✭GrasstoMilk


    We run a parasitic wash every morning after 2 rinses

    only do a detergent or acid wash in the evenings

    last tbc was 5000 and thermo 160



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 6,214 ✭✭✭straight


    I have noticed a few cows here this year getting swollen back legs and even slightly swollen paps. Some cows with unexplained milk yield drop and subsequent recovery. Never noticed it before. I wonder if it's schmallenberg or something? Anyone noticing similar. Am about 2k litres behind last year but have about 6 extra cows. March was hard but cows are in great condition now. Have loads of good grass and about 300 surplus bales. I guess you would need 40 euro to make it worth your while selling them....



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,570 ✭✭✭Mooooo


    Don't count anything as surplus here till the following March/ April.

    12/ 13 thought me that



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 6,214 ✭✭✭straight


    Ya, could be an early winter. Hoping for a great October. Sick of drawing bales. Contractors didn't want to draw them home from outfarm.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 865 ✭✭✭Pinsnbushings


    Welcome to the joys of fragmented farms...have the same problem with contractors drawing bales 10 miles every year.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 657 ✭✭✭Jack98


    We have an excellent contractor who draws 4/500 bales for us 18 miles from my fathers home farm every year. Draws a few loads when bales are baled and rest during winter tri-axle trailer with all the bells and whistles it’s a job we wouldn’t dream of doing ourselves. My father has a great relationship with him all his life so not likely many contractors would do the same we’re very lucky to have him.

    We are farming across 6 blocks also.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 6,214 ✭✭✭straight


    I did think about leaving them there until winter. The contractors are just too busy in the summer. Hard to get lads to do tedding too.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,438 ✭✭✭jaymla627


    Had similar last year, to the above and had schmallenberg calves born this year, plus a heap of lost embryos hit us hard here last June, lost a lot of milk for two weeks and badly hit cows never recovered milk-wise, a tell-tale sign is cows get a really bad black scour….

    You can’t even get a vaccine for it anymore our test, had a two headed calf this spring was the tell-tale sign plus a few aborted calves at 7 months that where all joints where fused together



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 657 ✭✭✭Jack98


    No problem leaving them until the winter and taking as you need them but they’d want to be on hardcore or in a yard off the road to avoid smearing with both wet land and traffic on roads.

    regarding tedding was the same here this year we have two contractors who do the baling for us one was providing a tedding service the other sold his last year and had to get a friend of mine to tedd for us twice this summer. A Tedder would be a good purchase but not one for this year anyway.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 6,214 ✭✭✭straight


    There is about 30 acres there. It's nearly too big for my 20 - 25 heifers. Might reopen the silage pit next year. Or maybe hay or maize (unlikely). Maybe red/white clover mix in 6 acres. Would be smaller amounts to draw at a time. I believe about 7 bales per acre 3 times a year.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 865 ✭✭✭Pinsnbushings


    I've tried the hay, easier draw but makes scraping a bit more tricky in the winter. My ground not suitable for maize or wholecrop really.

    Will you be drawing back the slurry or using compounds to keep it right?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 865 ✭✭✭Pinsnbushings


    Your lucky to have a good reliable man like that, worth an extra few pound every year.

    I considered stacking mine and drawing in the winter but it can get wet enough in the winter and I think I'd plough the place. Would really need a bit of hardcore or something there



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 657 ✭✭✭Jack98


    Exactly he’s invaluable to us, if you’re not making a huge amount of bales you’re as well off to draw them away as you make them but time on the road is the killer.

    We planted maize there for 3 years got on relatively well with it but it’s draining on ground and it’s gone really expensive of late fellas were lucky with great yields the last year or two.

    With regards you’re comment to nutrient replacement to straight above, fertilizer will only go so far when we were taking 3 cuts of silage off that far away ground it became ran out after a few years we have been drawing slurry by artic to the yard there the past 3 years and the difference is definitely noticeable when ground is receiving slurry along with fertilizer, it is very dry ground also so can be a great relief on slurry storage early on in the year.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,808 ✭✭✭older by the day


    Ya, I soil tested a outside block that I use for two cuts and grazing. The k result was thru the floor. The bottom of index 1. I put 2.5 bags of 10.10.20 and a bag of area for the second cut for the second cut. Definitely gave it a kick. What should I put out next there's a few bullocks on it. I won't be putting slurry as it is awkward to get in to



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 865 ✭✭✭Pinsnbushings


    Ye mine needs slurry or dung now.A yard there is a great job, the bit of ground I have is about 25 acres so it wouldn't justify a shed really. I wonder would those slurry bags be an idea on some of these outfarms. What can they hold or would you need planning I wonder.

    Hoping not to cut anything down there next year and spend a few pound to get it better set up for grazing, the issue with that is water.



  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 3,632 Mod ✭✭✭✭K.G.


    I put either cut sward or silage gold all year round on silage ground even for grazing on the shoulders and that's with slurry every cut.would nt dream of using urea on silage ground. I put less than 50units of n + 2000gls slurry per cut and I reckon I ve nicer silage .



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 6,214 ✭✭✭straight


    No slurry this year anyway. Might draw dung there in silage trailers. Compounds and grazing mostly I'd say. Not overstocked on the home block anyway. Limed the whole place this year and I'm planning on using sobac on it next year. Sobac advice is to use no more P&K and cut back nitrogen use by 15%.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 657 ✭✭✭Jack98


    I’d Have said 2k slurry and half a bag of urea but a bag of 10-10-20 to replace the slurry there if not spreading perhaps. You spread a good shot for the second cut there but that will all be inside in the yard now.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 657 ✭✭✭Jack98


    That would be ideal just grazing the far away blocks we lost leased ground for pit close to home yard 6 years ago so forced our hand going all bales. More expensive to say the least but being able to take out different cuts when they’re optimal has improved quality a lot of people would say we’re mad what we’re at dealing with 1100+ bales every year.

    Would only take on rented ground for pit again if it was reasonably priced and it’s hard come by these days. Don’t know would you be any better off than our current setup given we own the outfarm 18 miles away.



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