Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

Best Way to Maintain Wooden Furniture on Shotgun

Options
  • 18-05-2023 8:48pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 39


    I have an old Remington 1100 and was wondering if anyone has any tips on how to maintain the wooden furniture as best as possible.

    If anyone could recommend good quality products or methods I'd appreciate it



Best Answer

Answers

  • Registered Users Posts: 559 ✭✭✭JP22


    Remington made fine shotguns in days of old, don’t hunt anymore but my last one was an 1187 Premier, heavy bugger for field work but super great for a long day on clays.

    How do you skin a cat as they say?, many ways but for firearms stocks its basically two options - depending on stock condition.

    Option 1.

    If rough, beaten up/dings from years of use, a total strip/sanding, steam up the lightest dings, seal the wood grain with a few coats of True Oil and superfine sanding, it produces a wet slurry which should seal the wood pores.

    Leave slurry to dry thoroughly (a day), lightly wipe off trying not to remove the slurry which has filled pores/any leftover dings, Once totally dry, then re-finish with True oil (my personal choice). Do at least 8/10 coats (two a day) and once oil finish is totally cured/hardened (about two weeks), finish off with several coats of stock wax e.g. (Birchwood – Casey - Gun Stock Wax).

    True Oil Notes. Use a lint free cloth (old sheet/pillow case) to apply the first heavy coat of True Oil, leave it to soak in for a day (like paint primer, gives you a base for further coats). Then lightly knock back with the finest steel-wool/well-worn nylon scrubber you can get and repeat a second time.

    All further coats of True Oil should be applied with your fingers and as sparingly as possible (a few drops at a time), do small sections at a time (2”x2”, 3”x3”), you’ll know when to stop rubbing as the oil gets tacky from the heat generated from your fingers/stock. Lightly knock back with the finest steel-wool between each coat, some people use a well-worn nylon scrubber instead of wire-wool, it’s your choice.

    Option 2.

    If stock is in good condition with all or most of original finish remaining, give it a light clean to remove any crud, oil, wax, etc. use an old toothbrush on the stippling if any. Several coats of a good stock wax (Birchwood – Casey - Gun Stock Wax).

    Note - On the wax, first coat should be on heavy side, allow it to thoroughly soak in/dry (about an hour) before buffing off, three/four coats should do a good job; the wax reduces the high sheen of the True Oil to a matt finish.



  • Registered Users Posts: 39,204 ✭✭✭✭Mellor


    These are both good approaches. But I would consider the first to be more of a proper refinish maintenance. If you want to start as you mean to go on, then maybe a refinish is best.

    One point to note is that the correct way to maintain, and/or spot finish any wooden finish (gunstock, wooden floors). Is completely dependent on the existing finish. Easy to reapply new il over old oil. But if they previous owner have put a hard lacquer on, it will need to be stripped.



Advertisement