Supersoil- Snake oil?

I think it is too. But I haven't spread or dealt with them.

I use a lick bucket full of mollasses per bay of the slatted house. Add to a full tank then agitate. Come back about 6-8 weeks later and you'll have grass rocket fuel

Molasses is sugar, feed the bugs.

As John says the Mollasses feeds the Bugs. It's the bugs that break down the slurry. When you spread raw slurry out onto the field it still hs to break down before the grass can use it.

The Mollasses trick is one that most waste water treatment plants use to break down slurry

I got a few small bits this year for a bullock that wouldn't eat ration and the local coop were 60c/l if you were only buying small amounts. They had an IBC in the yard for the purpose. I'd imagine that it would be a good deal less to buy in an IBC. Most around here used to go to the Premier Molasses depot in Foynes with their own barrels etc. Not sure if that option is still there or not.

A lot depends also on the grasses. PRG certainly don't like a reduction in nitrogen as they are bred specifically for it. Annoyingly the MSS mix mandated by the Dept has 55% PRG.

Cut a field of red clover silage today. The main grass at this time of year in my mix is cocksfoot. Other species will take over later, timothy and fescues. It got untreated slurry in Feb, nothing else, I'm organic.

It would be impossible to know if an additive would have an effect, except by proper trials.

I do know one has to be careful as it can effect the fertility in ewes. Haven't heard of your problem. Think I'd be cautious with sheep in general. Mighty stuff for cattle though.

Question for say or anyone else.

Have to spray super soil for a customer tomorrow or the next day. What weather conditions are required, dry with no rain forecast or can it be sprayed on damp grass??

Tried googling the data sheet for super soil, but as mentioned before, they don't advertise the essential information.

Ideal, thanks enda

That would be a very tough trial on any biology or feed for biology.

The best results you'd get is when the field is humming. It keeps it humming. But if it's not. It won't start it off iykwim.

Someone I know was talking to the seller of this at a biofarm conference. Their impression of them. Was charlatan.

They must be getting it from somewhere else and just have gone blitz on the advertising.

I'm only a farmer who's tried out some stuff.

Start with the hard stuff. By hard I don't mean difficult but hard as is the basic elements.

Graduate through them and results will come. Use your detailed soil tests to see what's lacking and build up your micronutrients and use carbon and sugar sources with your N.

I'll insult everyone here. But feck it. There's some ...... who think results are instant. If your ground is not primed by farming to help biology in the ground it'll take years longer of doing the same thing to get results. 3 years is generally what I and others are seeing for it takes conventionally farmed ground to start to look after itself. But you do have to do all of the above to get there. And you'll still need maintenance.

Sugar and carbon - molasses.

Carbon with a humus element - humic and fulvic acid.

Pure carbon - liquid biochar.

Horses are very tough on land. Between compaction and tight grazing. But that's generalisation.

You know the state of play yourself.

No you have to build up what microbes eat and vary as much as possible the nutrients and minerals in those.

Stud farms were the original users of calcified seaweed in this country.