Wake me up when it's all over.
Graces7 wrote: »
At one house I had an ( enclosed) rainwater tank fed from the gutters, and pipes across to my polytunnel and main garden. It was excellent.
I have recently bought two IBCs which I want to install off our large shed. As The Continental Op suggests I am going to use the existing water butt as a simple sediment filter and then into the IBCs in series. I won't have frost protection so I might drain them during the winter although the water butt has never had a issue with frost (5 years at least).
I will try and raise the whole system by about 1M to give a decent head of pressure for the tunnel hose.
I'm sure it would be great to bury the line going to the tunnel but knowing my timetabling it will be lying on the ground for the first 5 years at least. Once water is flowing other priorities will take over.
I would also like to get a small pump organised to get water back up into the main tank in the attic. Main advantage is we live in a hard water area so the collected water will reduce wear on our washing machine, reduce shampoo, soaps etc and we are also flushing treated water down the toilet every day which doesn't make sense, even if I was not paying for it personally (I am paying for it because we are on a group scheme).
Hi everyone sorry to bump this thread.
I am thinking of buying this tank in order to collect water for my downstairs toilet. Not going to supply anything else so probably doesn't need filtering or UV. Anyone installed one of these before?
Do you think pressure would be an issue? I'd install the tank up the wall a bit so the toilet it feeds would be lower. Do toilets still refill when the water pressure is low?
Was thinking of having a 3-way valve inside the house so I could select between feeding the toilet from the attic or the rain tank. Anyone tried doing that before, is it straightforward?
Anything I should know about putting a pipe through the wall to service the toilet, would that damage the house insulation or anything?
Firstly that may be illegal because of the 3 way valve but no one will care. If there is the slightest possibility of non potable water ending up in the watermain then its not allowed. Anyway the main point I wanted to make was that with traditional ball cocks you can change the valve seat to one with a bigger orifice so it fills more quickly.
Edit> Another thought is that many toilet cisterns have the option of having the water feed from either side. So you could have two ballcock fittings (if there's room) and just turn on the relevant feed. This might fit?
Another point: You can really install that unit too far up a wall as it says the base must be supported! Check the installation instructions.
Yes, pressure will be an problem as the tank empties. It needs to be as high as possible. It also needs good filtering as you don't want to block-up the valves, etc.
Drilling through the wall isn't a major issue, just back-fill the holes on both sides and you'll be fine. Depending on the point where the pipe will enter the house, you may need to drill from the inside-out to keep the hole tidy and it also keeps much of the dust out from between the insulation and inner-wall.
The tank looks really tidy (at a huge price), but my concern with it would be frost damage. It has a huge surfaced area, and that may make it more likely to freeze and expend.
Thanks for response.
The plan would be for the 3-way valve to be in the under-stairs cupboard which is on the ground floor and right behind the toilet. So not remotely near the attic cistern - I don't see how rainwater could ever end up mixing with the mains.
Unfortunately the toilet cistern only has intake on the bottom so no possibility of a second intake, hence the 3-way valve idea.
I'm planning on laying bricks under the tank to support it. I've read the instructions. When full the tank will weigh 250 kg that's a quarter of a tonne! It'd certainly need to be supported and not just hanging off a wall!