Dyness A48100

I think you are right just seems like an rs232 wifi adapter that just works with their app/send data to their cloud.

I actually have windows software they sent me that can do the same but I never got around to making the COM cable and test it.

Here's what they sent me if you want to play around with it.

Let me know if you get it to work, could be handy for investigations 😀

Or hooking this up to an rs232 wifi adapter and then bring the data into Home Assistant.

I got my issue fixed. Seems there is a batch of A48100 (sourced in Ireland) with a firmware that is not letting them talk together proper.

Sharing details here, as this should help a lot of people with the A48100 if you are affected by this when having more than 1 battery.

You have to wait 20 seconds to a couple minites of starting my 2 batteries, the video attached a few posts ago shows the master battery with all LEDs blinking at the same time after reboot and that time lapse. Dyness support quoted it as "Internal communication problem"

After a few days and sourcing the Dyness Wifi module http://www.dyness.net/uploadfile/file/20220513/afa6eaa7edf22b52226412fd6101c79c.pdf

I couldn't upgrade any firmware... however, after contacting Dyness they uploaded something somewhere and the iOS app connected to the WIFI dongle and the battery was prompting to upgrade to the "1.07 Ireland" version.

You have to remove all the other communication cables from the batteries. Set the battery to update as master DIP 0010. Do all the batteries. Then, turn all off, setup the DIP on the master as 0010 and all the other batteries as slaves. Start as normal, everything will work as expected.

Finally working with 100A charge/discharge and no weird lights.

Forced charge to 100% to balance the batteries and you can see it was already charging at 100A (and also used for the first time the Solis 6Kw inverter fans!) :) See dongle to the right of the pic.

This is from the iOS app, if you search for "Dyness" you can install it but can't do nothing unless you have the wifi module.

the module lets you monitor the battery independently of the inverter and also apply firmware updated. perhaps just a one use device but did the trick for me.

Contact Dyness support if you in doubt. info@dyness-tech.com they were very helpful.

Might take a while to start to be contacted but after that they will move fast.

For this question about this A48100 battery, to setup on the Solis Menu:

The recommendation from Dyness support was:

"As far as I know, this does not need to be set. Only when the lead acid is used, I need to set it. "

So, defaults are good.

Also attached the doc:

Very happy with Dyness support.

You might have no issue with your battery but you’d know what to look for if you get one and that support will resolve. So far very happy with them.

Hope it helps!

On the app itself yes.

You can use both at the same time.

The battery has 3 ports. IN/OUT used by inverter or to comm to other batteries.

The other port called COM is a 6 pin one, that's the one to plug the dongle into.

Will send you PM , but it was expensive as ****

Note that, if you have to upgrade your firmware, it won't come up on its own, I had to engage with Dyness support and send screenshots of what the app was telling me as ID in order for them to make the update available for me to apply...

Cable is included, says it in the manual

will pm you details

Will do share now.

Contact Dyness support. You will also need their help for them to make the firmware available to you. Seems is not universal and doesn't appear.

I might be wrong, would be good to know here once you get it sorted.

That's just good practice in a large array. Short (pardon the pun) of using two large busbars, you should always have the positive and the negative main connections at opposite ends of the array

I had my threshold in 18% and force charge 15%

Overnight it does suck up constant 62w from the batteries if 18% or under, when it shouldn't.

This has to be some firmware thing, it shouldn't be doing that. Managed this morning to get it to jump to 18 and it did stop, this is bothering me :(

Every night is the same thing. The point is the base load is 75-120W based on how the fridge is doing.

The grid charging seems it has its own setting for Backup mode, so you can set that separately only for backup.

You say:

"Dyness advised to not go below 15% but you can go to 10% SOC"

however, if you see the document from where you get the image, their settings say 5% and 5% with a DOD of 95% allowed for these units.

Confusing the least.

Agreeing with you it should be wired as per manual. Installers. :(

Would it be safe to remove the black cable from the Master battery and plug to the slave battery? How would you suggest to do that? Turning off batteries and/or disabling battery in the inverter itself? Would that be safe?

Thanks Dracula for pointing this out!!!

same guy that left the 2nd battery with the firmware issue did the cabling that way.

For what I read around, it does matter the connections unless y are using other types of batteries without BMS etc

Turned all off. Unswitched the safe and changed cables. Let’s monitor tonight the power leakage . Left SOC 15% and force charge 14%. Backup ON at 16% (not allowing charge for Backup). Hopefully this will be the end of it and never go up to the attic !!!

Great! Happy it helped!

trying to get the night power leak sorted and I can then rest it all out :)

AntonP If i can ask where did you buy it the WIFI dongle please.

It's just installers names can't be posted, if it's a shop or wholesaler I think it's ok.

@eyeou I have a one of these WIFI dongles only got it a few days ago, paid €80 for it but my batteries are not compatible so I have no use for it.

You can have it for the same.

Hi SD_Dracula, if your dongle (WIF-M01 Dyness) is still available / for sale I am interested. I have just PM-ed you. thank you