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Dyness A48100

  • 09-09-2022 8:10am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7


    Does anyone have any experience to share with 4.8kwh battery please



«1

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 104 ✭✭runner2011


    About to have one installed tomorrow to replace a 20 day old faulty Puredrive ..



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 84 ✭✭AntonP


    considering a 2nd myself… not sure if allowed price posting here ? Just curious



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,752 ✭✭✭yankinlk


    Posting sources and prices is ok for batteries I think.

    The issue is with installers , we didn't want people bashing them in threads.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,608 ✭✭✭✭ELM327


    Dyness batteries are quite hard to source as a private individual. I found. I'm trying to buy another couple to add to my existing setup. The only europe source I found was CCL europe and I had to register as a trade account (luckily I have a company).

    South Africa have a lot.

    If I were starting from scratch I wouldnt use Dyness - not because of quality issues, just because they are hard to source. Pylontech are similar hardware but easier to get.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 84 ✭✭AntonP


    Thanks, yep makes sense.

    Just wondering a rough price to have an idea and run some calcs.

    Checked and yeah, online you can find them but are South Africa. We wish we could source them here at those prices on the web lol.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34 viewofthehill


    Have been looking around for batteries also and found the following. Is this a good price/reputable company to get batteries from?

    They seem to be Spanish (so no Vat/Customs?) and delivery is about 140 for a single battery

    WccSolar | www.wccsolar.net



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 84 ✭✭AntonP


    I've asked them for price of battery and costs of delivery to Ireland, just for the sake of getting a number as the A48100 is not listed their site.

    Cannot confirm 100% on reputability by site looks legit, and I can read all the Spanish remarks.

    Update: they have just replied (very efficient): "they only work the 51100"

    Post edited by AntonP on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 84 ✭✭AntonP


    Got this document from Dyness support, very interesting. Thoughts?





  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,752 ✭✭✭yankinlk


    I have a Dyness PowerDepotH5 - looks a LOT like the PowerBox Pro... mine is 4.8Kw size.

    I have used these settings for a year no issue:

    Overcharge SOC: 12%

    ForceCharge SOC: 10%

    ForceCharge Limit: 50A


    I would be interested from the experts to see if I should adjust - but i am happy with my performance so far and dont want to break it! :)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 84 ✭✭AntonP


    Got my 2nd A48100 installed yesterday but seen some worrying things.

    perhaps anyone of you that have a solis and multiple Dyness can share?

    the master battery , all lights blinking constantly. After a reset, the master battery wakes up the slave and lights look ok, but after 1 minute the blinking starts.

    BMS reported 50A max discharge , rang Solis and they had 100A. Had to restart the batteries and seemed the 100A now ok, will try later electric shower to confirm.

    also, I am getting a constant 140W discharge reported with the 2 batteries overnight. With the 1 battery this was 190W. However there’s nothing plugged that consumes that much!

    those wats consumption disappear as soon as there are around 100W coming from the panels and batteries charging, but come back after battery charged.

    installer doesn’t seem to know

    I’d appreciate any help, please

    pic was taken Sunday 16th, very cloudy. Only fridge in. Nobody home all day, holidays.

    every day is the same pattern, 5kw consumption on a fridge that should do max 0.8, nobody at home




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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,391 ✭✭✭yannakis


    Wouldn't that ~200W be your baseload? Like fridge/freezer, standby devices, modem/router etc.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 84 ✭✭AntonP


    Overnight? No. Have a meter and the fridge oscillates from 1 to 66W when it’s working, mainly 28W

    During the day when all is off I get 20-30W

    Nothing standby.

    Even that, how do you explain the consumption overnight and then when panels start receiving sunlight the usage drops to zero mostly all the time as it should be?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 84 ✭✭AntonP


    Also, when battery is fully charged also does it… only time it doesn’t happen is when the battery is been charged.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,486 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    I'd say the inverter itself uses the rest of the power, it does run on electricity and is always on 😂



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 84 ✭✭AntonP


    Mmm, not sure you get the question here. The Solis inverter consumption is 10W.

    During the day, the *consumption* of the stuff in the house would go from a minimum 40-50W, router, inverter, couple of minor standbys, to 90W when the fridge is on. That's all when all is off.

    When there is no sun hitting the panels and battery is not charging, the number I get is a constant 145-150W consumption.

    This sounds to me the panels are draining energy out as it is not consumed by anything else. You are talking 100W that cannot account for.

    How does that explain then that a house without anyone on it is consuming 5Kw daily just with a 260Kw/annum fridge (~0.8 Kw daily) and a router that adds other 30W per hour ~0.7Kw?

    Sounds like tops is 2Kh a day, this thing is sucking more than double.

    Those 5-6 days only purple are days we weren't on the house. Total 5Kw daily, same pattern as the daily screenshot posted above.

    Is that normal for you too?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,020 ✭✭✭con747


    I know my Solis 5kw inverter uses 120w - 150w continually 24/7. It's beside my kitchen so I pass it numerous times during the day/night so can see exactly what is being used. My normal base load is between 120w-150w and it always shows a draw of about 240w-300w on the inverter.

    Don't expect anything from life, just be grateful to be alive.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 84 ✭✭AntonP


    Thanks. So you could account for that 120 to 150w overnight based on what you are currently using in the house?

    Why would my Solis web image display no house consumption or under 100W during the day and battery charged, and then 145W-150W flat and constant overnight to then disappear once sun starts hitting?

    Am just trying to figure out things here, thanks for the help.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,020 ✭✭✭con747


    To be honest I gave up trying to figure it out! When I got my install I was asking the question about the inverter using that much power 24/7 and the general consensus here was it was what it uses to do it's housekeeping so I left it at that.

    Is it possible you missed something that draws power at night? That's all I can think of.

    Don't expect anything from life, just be grateful to be alive.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 84 ✭✭AntonP


    Nope. All unplugged while we were out.

    how are your daily charts in any day you were on holidays? Same pattern as mine ?

    If you have the same Solis setup that would defo say something.

    if you have an overnight line constant wats usage over 150w like me then I would take it but I am kinda inclined to think is something like this:

    https://solargearguide.com/do-solar-panels-drain-at-night-weve-got-the-answer/



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,020 ✭✭✭con747


    My base load is never the same, I have a deep well pump and water treatment system that kicks in whenever it needs to. I'm afraid my mind works mechanically not to good technically! So you need some of the tech people here to steer you in the right direction to see where the power draw is. I would start flicking off trip switches when it is drawing power to see if you are missing something.

    Don't expect anything from life, just be grateful to be alive.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 84 ✭✭AntonP


    I don't think is anything I have plugged. Or there is a power draw between the solar panels and the inverter that is not reported on the Solis Cloud, or Solis cloud is reporting the consumption on a different way when there is solar power coming in or not.


    Can't be my house sucks 5 Kw daily on a fridge and 150W constant overnight and below 100W during the day when the same stuff is plugged!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 84 ✭✭AntonP


    Did a test here. Mains off everything besides the inverter Kept on.

    before that it was using 150W, after, inverter on “standby” seems to be sucking 70W

    in theory , these inverters shall go 15W in standby. So there are 55 wats not accounted for.

    will check Solis Monday and figure out what’s their take on it.

    Correct me if I am wrong. If there is no solar controller or anything to avoid the issue and the panels are drawing 55 wats on average 12 hours a day (when there is no voltage) over the year is 660 wats a day. Total 20Kw a month. 240 Kw a year. Around 100€ at 40c kw

    I’ll test tomorrow during the day when the batteries are charging (all the other mains off besides the Pv system) and confirm what’s the inverter displaying as consuming on top of the battery charge.

    below. Pitch black outside. All mains off besides PV system. 70 wats usage of inverter.

    if anyone knows better, please share!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,486 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    See below for comparison, as you can see the battery drain is always more than the house load, up to 200w, I doubt that's just battery loses, must be the inverter using a big chunk (70w is too low I think)

    House load

    Battery load




  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,610 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    From experience, the value shown that is being drawn from battery is the value supplied from the bms, not actually measured by the inverter.


    If you dig through the menus you can see what the inverter sees.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,486 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    The other way around actually, that is the inverter one, BMS power value is lower, up to 100w less.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,610 Mod ✭✭✭✭graememk


    The one on the screen is the bms one on the one I have.. I think anyway... I had the shunt wired up backwards to the bms, so it said it was charging when it was actually discharging..



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 84 ✭✭AntonP


    Thanks for the comments ! Right now I can see on the app 135W that makes total sense with that is plugged in the house and 70W for idle Solis, where 15W is what I’d expect for the idle inverter and 55W not sure what’s the gap. I will be testing tomorrow during daylight the same thing, turn all off from mains but not the PV and see if those 55 appear anywhere or what. Some should appear as the Solis won’t be idle but charging battery, however:

    if my suspicion is right, it will confirm the panels do draw 55W when battery not charging. Will also ask the Solis support and share here the results.

    70W for an idle inverter sounds too much.

    anyone with a charge controller? Aren’t those meant to avoid the panel power draw overnight?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 84 ✭✭AntonP


    Does anyone have the Dyness WIFI Module / know where it can be purchased ?

    http://www.dyness.net/uploadfile/file/20220513/afa6eaa7edf22b52226412fd6101c79c.pdf

    Seems is the required to be able to firmware upgrade the batteries, that's what Dyness support tells me.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,486 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    Hmm I asked about wifi on existing batteries and they told me if they are not specced from the factory to have wifi built-in then you can't add it at a later stage.

    They didn't say anything about this thing but I believe that is confirmed in the manual:

    No wifi in the battery then it won't work?

    A bit stupid if that's the case, if it has a wifi module in the battery then why do you need this thing?



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 84 ✭✭AntonP


    Chinese translations are always badly made.

    If you download the Dyness App from the iOS / Google stores you can see that you can connect to A48100 as listed.

    My understanding is perhaps, other batteries do not have this kind of stuff, as the manual link is for the WIFI module.

    I bet you, the WIFI module simply connects with the cable to the battery via RS232 that's all, no need to have anything else but a compatible model.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,486 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    I think you are right just seems like an rs232 wifi adapter that just works with their app/send data to their cloud.

    I actually have windows software they sent me that can do the same but I never got around to making the COM cable and test it.

    Here's what they sent me if you want to play around with it.

    Let me know if you get it to work, could be handy for investigations 😀

    Or hooking this up to an rs232 wifi adapter and then bring the data into Home Assistant.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 84 ✭✭AntonP


    What seems to me is that is a lower level way to build the cable and software to connect from windows for monitoring, but not to update firmware.

    I bet you the Wifi dongle just bridges all that and with the Dyness mobile App you can just do all.

    I've asked them if that dongle can be bought. I have 2 of the 48100s and they don't talk to each other, one of the support reps from Dyness told me that, need to get the firmware upgraded to get them to talk and be able to use 100A, at the moment is 50A.

    (all lights blinking)


    (trying to get the installer to help me doing this but learning myself at the same time)



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 84 ✭✭AntonP


    I got my issue fixed. Seems there is a batch of A48100 (sourced in Ireland) with a firmware that is not letting them talk together proper.

    Sharing details here, as this should help a lot of people with the A48100 if you are affected by this when having more than 1 battery.

    You have to wait 20 seconds to a couple minites of starting my 2 batteries, the video attached a few posts ago shows the master battery with all LEDs blinking at the same time after reboot and that time lapse. Dyness support quoted it as "Internal communication problem"

    After a few days and sourcing the Dyness Wifi module http://www.dyness.net/uploadfile/file/20220513/afa6eaa7edf22b52226412fd6101c79c.pdf

    I couldn't upgrade any firmware... however, after contacting Dyness they uploaded something somewhere and the iOS app connected to the WIFI dongle and the battery was prompting to upgrade to the "1.07 Ireland" version.

    You have to remove all the other communication cables from the batteries. Set the battery to update as master DIP 0010. Do all the batteries. Then, turn all off, setup the DIP on the master as 0010 and all the other batteries as slaves. Start as normal, everything will work as expected.

    Finally working with 100A charge/discharge and no weird lights.

    Forced charge to 100% to balance the batteries and you can see it was already charging at 100A (and also used for the first time the Solis 6Kw inverter fans!) :) See dongle to the right of the pic.



    This is from the iOS app, if you search for "Dyness" you can install it but can't do nothing unless you have the wifi module.

    the module lets you monitor the battery independently of the inverter and also apply firmware updated. perhaps just a one use device but did the trick for me.


    Contact Dyness support if you in doubt. info@dyness-tech.com they were very helpful.

    Might take a while to start to be contacted but after that they will move fast.


    For this question about this A48100 battery, to setup on the Solis Menu:


    The recommendation from Dyness support was:

    "As far as I know, this does not need to be set. Only when the lead acid is used, I need to set it. "

    So, defaults are good.

    Also attached the doc:


    Very happy with Dyness support.

    You might have no issue with your battery but you’d know what to look for if you get one and that support will resolve. So far very happy with them.

    Hope it helps!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,486 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    Can you get any live readings/stats from the batteries using the wifi dongle?

    I'd be interested in that.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 84 ✭✭AntonP


    On the app itself yes.




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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,486 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    Can you PM me the details of where you sourced one of these dongles?

    I assume you can use the dongle alongside the inverter it's not just one or the other right? Does it plug into one of the free ports on the battery?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 84 ✭✭AntonP


    You can use both at the same time.

    The battery has 3 ports. IN/OUT used by inverter or to comm to other batteries.

    The other port called COM is a 6 pin one, that's the one to plug the dongle into.

    Will send you PM , but it was expensive as ****

    Note that, if you have to upgrade your firmware, it won't come up on its own, I had to engage with Dyness support and send screenshots of what the app was telling me as ID in order for them to make the update available for me to apply...



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,391 ✭✭✭yannakis


    @AntonP can you please PM me the details too? Does the WiFi module come with the cable or did you have to crimp a custom one yourself?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 84 ✭✭AntonP


    Cable is included, says it in the manual

    will pm you details



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 104 ✭✭runner2011


    @AntonP Would you mind sending me the details of where you got the module too? I have exactly the same issue as you had. Thanks.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 84 ✭✭AntonP


    Will do share now.

    Contact Dyness support. You will also need their help for them to make the firmware available to you. Seems is not universal and doesn't appear.

    I might be wrong, would be good to know here once you get it sorted.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,486 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    @AntonP Just looking back through this and I noticed that your + and - battery cables are connected to the same battery which is technically not correct, it will work fine probably with just two batteries but I believe the right way is to connect the main negative to the slave and leave the main positive on the master.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 22,608 ✭✭✭✭ELM327


    That's just good practice in a large array. Short (pardon the pun) of using two large busbars, you should always have the positive and the negative main connections at opposite ends of the array



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 84 ✭✭AntonP


    I just have the 2 batteries. I see what you say.

    Guys, would it matter or is just good practise? I wouldn't want to ring the installer for something that wouldn't really matter.

    See 2nd image:

    Seems that is also good, right?

    Also... seems it doesn't really matter, just etiquette? Found other one.


    My main issue here lately is the overnight discharge below SOC when there's no solar coming in. I am testing different % thresholds with the Solis to see if I can figure out the right combo.

    Based on the documents shared here officialy from Dyness, can you see they recommend just 5% of SOC and 5% of force charge?

    However the Solis goes to 20% and 15% as default. Some recommend other values, seems all so different. If I had to go with smtg I'd go with the battery manufacturer. At the moment testing 12%, 11% and backup ON to 11% (not allowing backup charge) to see if I can remove the glitch of 62w constant draw overnight when the battery under SOC.


    I have the Solis S5-EH1P-6K-L and the 2x Dyness A48100



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 84 ✭✭AntonP




    I had my threshold in 18% and force charge 15%

    Overnight it does suck up constant 62w from the batteries if 18% or under, when it shouldn't.

    This has to be some firmware thing, it shouldn't be doing that. Managed this morning to get it to jump to 18 and it did stop, this is bothering me :(

    Every night is the same thing. The point is the base load is 75-120W based on how the fridge is doing.




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,486 ✭✭✭SD_DRACULA


    The manual does say to connect it like that alright:

    It makes a difference when you have multiple batteries as the SOCs won't be consistent even your man Will Prowse demonstrated it but with just two batteries who knows. Installer should have wired it as per manual anyway.

    You should NOT disable grid charging or you risk letting the batteries go down to 0 and damage them.

    Dyness advised to not go below 15% but you can go to 10% SOC



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 84 ✭✭AntonP


    The grid charging seems it has its own setting for Backup mode, so you can set that separately only for backup.

    You say:

    "Dyness advised to not go below 15% but you can go to 10% SOC"

    however, if you see the document from where you get the image, their settings say 5% and 5% with a DOD of 95% allowed for these units.

    Confusing the least.


    Agreeing with you it should be wired as per manual. Installers. :(

    Would it be safe to remove the black cable from the Master battery and plug to the slave battery? How would you suggest to do that? Turning off batteries and/or disabling battery in the inverter itself? Would that be safe?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 84 ✭✭AntonP


    Feck sake, is this what you are talking about?

    Could I fix this myself lads?



    Is this what I would have to do? move the positive that goes to the master and plug it in the slave?




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 84 ✭✭AntonP


    Thanks Dracula for pointing this out!!!

    same guy that left the 2nd battery with the firmware issue did the cabling that way.

    For what I read around, it does matter the connections unless y are using other types of batteries without BMS etc

    Turned all off. Unswitched the safe and changed cables. Let’s monitor tonight the power leakage . Left SOC 15% and force charge 14%. Backup ON at 16% (not allowing charge for Backup). Hopefully this will be the end of it and never go up to the attic !!!


    Post edited by AntonP on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 104 ✭✭runner2011


    @AntonP i had my batteries firmware updated today .. my installer contacted me last Friday saying he received a unit and did a test and it was solid. Took him 10 mins today in and out. All working now correctly… thanks for the Info. Might a get a wifi module anyway for future.



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