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Gravel bikes for commuting?

  • 19-01-2022 3:12pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 2,291 ✭✭✭


    I'm looking for a steer on getting a new bike. I currently have a hybrid bike which I largely use for commuting or doing trips around the city. I'm looking to upgrade and would also like to venture into longer weekend trips when I can. I'd probably still keep the hybrid bike for the city trips as I wouldn't feel comfortable locking up a new bike on a street for fear of it getting robbed.

    I understand that gravel bikes are well suited to more off road terrains (I don't really expect to be on many dirt roads or mountain trails), but I figure there is a benefit on the roads I travel as there are some very rough segments, speed bumps, potholes etc. I also am thinking of getting panniers to take the backpack off my back and I hear they're well suited to that also.

    I considered a road bike but I felt this was a bit of a stretch given that I'd only have occasional casual long trips and the roughness of the roads I normally travel to work.

    Based on the above, would I be right in thinking that gravel bikes the best step up from a hybrid?



Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,184 ✭✭✭Paul Kiernan


    I think a gravel bike would be ideal and would be my choice but you could also consider the more endurance end of road bikes e.g. Domane, Defy, Endurace, Roubaix. I think you've worked it out pretty well though and a gravel bike should tick all your boxes.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,747 ✭✭✭MojoMaker


    A gravel bike with road tyres is a road bike.

    A road bike with gravel tyres, on the road, is just silly.

    The gravel bike by itself does not give you anything intrinsically.



  • Registered Users Posts: 607 ✭✭✭ARX


    Something to consider with panniers is that your heel can hit the pannier ("heel strike"). It's no big deal as there's all kinds of adjustment possible, just something to bear in mind, particularly if you have big feet.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,121 ✭✭✭mr spuckler


    I've just bought a gravel bike with the intention of it replacing my hybrid commuter as well as using it for gravel, light trails etc. Tomorrow will be my first commute on it, tonight I'll be heading off-road on it :D

    I got a rack and mudguards too and it's certainly well set up for those. There are also mounts on the front fork if I wanted to add a rack up front.



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,291 ✭✭✭VonLuck


    Does that not over-simplify things? I understand that there are subtle differences in the frame geometry which can give a bit of an impact on how you ride e.g. reach.

    Also on the tyres, the gravel bike gives you the flexibility to choose whatever tyres suits you best. In theory I could swap out the gravel tyres and go with a narrower wheelbase, but I figure those tyres will give me a more comfortable commute on the bumpy roads.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,599 ✭✭✭Cyclingtourist


    Gravel?

    I try to avoid gravel when cycling, which is easy in Ireland as there's virtually none.



  • Registered Users Posts: 607 ✭✭✭ARX


    And you simply must have a pair of gravel shoes: https://www.cyclingnews.com/features/best-gravel-bike-shoes/

    Of course, anything but gravel socks with gravel shoes would be a literal faux pas: https://luxa.cc/en/socks/214-only-gravel.html

    How on earth did we ever manage without this stuff?



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,291 ✭✭✭VonLuck


    Surely there's something to be said for having most of the benefits of a road bike with the added comfort you get from wider tyres?



  • Registered Users Posts: 193 ✭✭sudocremegg


    There's tons of them if you know where to look.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,050 ✭✭✭cletus


    But sure you could swap out gravel for road, or MTB for that matter.

    I don't get your point. My grandfather cycled many many miles around the country in the 50's on a 3 speed high nelly, while wearing trousers and work shoes. Sure we should all do the same...



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,050 ✭✭✭cletus


    I have that book, and it's fascinating, but I would have loved more reading 😁



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,228 ✭✭✭Breezer


    VonLuck, I was in a similar situation to you. I had a reasonably good hybrid that I used for commuting. I wanted something for longer trips, and to try a bit of off road, and decided a gravel bike would be a good “go anywhere bike.”

    I had no intention of using it for commuting, but my hybrid kept getting punctures a few months back (due to roadworks on my commute, I think), and I ended up having to take the gravel bike. Now I don’t want to switch back. It’s a much more comfortable bike to ride. I’ll keep the hybrid for locking up around town, but I can’t see myself going back to it for the commute.

    Caveat: my hybrid is reasonably decent; my gravel bike is high spec. Not all gravel bikes are created equal. Some are more like road bikes, others are more like old school mountain bikes. Most will give you a degree of versatility though. I don’t have a pannier rack on mine, but I could, and I do have 4 bottle cages, a lock that clips onto the frame, and full mudguards. Some road bikes will allow for some of this, and some gravel bikes less so: “gravel” is a to some extent a marketing term, so research a few individual bikes and see which one best meets your requirements.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,148 ✭✭✭✭Lemming


    From that first link, and I am sorry that I clicked on it to read the sh1te contained within:

    Gravel bikes can't handle the same level of terrain as a mountain bike with 130mm of suspension, so to have the same level of protection in your shoes is just extra weight that your legs have to drive in a circle.

    I am sorry but wtf do they think mountain bikers wear? Lead overshoes or something? That statement smacks of "I am overweight and rather than focus on losing some of it, I shall buy a carbon bottle cage to make my pedalling uphill easier."

    Gobsh1tes.

    Post edited by Lemming on


  • Registered Users Posts: 607 ✭✭✭ARX


    Well, we can file my attempt at humour in the same box as the L-shaped cranks 😉



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,050 ✭✭✭cletus


    😁😁😁


    Apologies, there was me thinking you were just being a snide fecker 😳😳



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,458 ✭✭✭Gerry


    I decided to buy a cx bike as a combination commuter and occasional cx race bike. The mudguard and pannier mounts were appealing, and the tyre clearance also. it came with fairly low end 35mm cx tyres which are useless on road so I fitted schwalbe pro one 28s I plan on replacing the with larger road tyres next time but it has worked out well. Its a comfortable bike, but is it any more comfortable than a modern endurance bike? I don't really think so.

    I'd be interested to know what tyres you intend to run, presumably not gravel tyres as they will slow you down a lot.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,599 ✭✭✭Cyclingtourist


    What's a touring bike? It's a bike you tour on.

    If the OP wants to use his hybrid for longer trips there's nothing stopping him/her.

    I've toured in France, Portugal and Spain on my hybrid bike, probably close to 5,000kms in total.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,161 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    I commute on my CX racer all the time now, never the intention, even use the CX tyres, ain't much difference in average speed albeit the top end speed is way down. It is a class all rounder, I manage my commute and can keep pace on club spins, plenty of mini off road adventures over lockdown. Much like vs my road bike the top end speed is down, the same with vs my MTB, the top end speed is down but I still get around even fairly technical stuff. You get a look from the MTBers and the Roadies, even the commuters but as an all rounder thats it. Also Gravel Bikes are just CX bikes.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,228 ✭✭✭Breezer


    Yeah I commute on 38mm gravel tyres. It’s a short commute with lots of traffic lights. I can’t imagine road tyres would make a lot of difference to the overall time taken. No one’s ever commented, at least not to my face!



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,228 ✭✭✭Breezer


    Of course there isn’t, but drop bars and fatter tyres might make things more comfortable and open up more rugged terrain.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,161 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    The commuters it is more just generally leering, in a sort of, my god, look at this Adonis of cycling. From the other two it is more a look of, what is this muppet at 🤣



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 685 ✭✭✭Whatwicklow


    I used my cx last year to commute the N81, Blessington to citywest.


    All things being equal it was 4 kmph slower than the road bike but was x 3 the comfort while wearing the back pack.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,484 ✭✭✭Macy0161


    Not sure "Gravel bikes are just CX bikes" - there is usually a difference in geometry. And I really wouldn't want to be shouldering my topstone up belgian stairs. Gravel bikes are more like an endurance road bike with better clearance, and if my Defy Disc had the clearance I probably wouldn't have even got a gravel bike. There's so much blurring of the lines between relaxed geometry cx*/ gravel/ all road/ wide clearance endurance road bike.

    Whatever about the socks, I am ambivalent about gravel shoes. Whatever about an Irish context, in the US there probably is a need for something more nuanced between road and mtb for the races there.

    *I very nearly when for the TCX when I got the Topstone - that years model was more relaxed than a pure CX racer, had the tyres clearance and mounts. Ultimately Quick Release put me off a bit. Not sure if that still stands now Giant have the Revolt.



  • Registered Users Posts: 933 ✭✭✭alentejo


    I got a genesis CDA 20 two years ago for the commute. I dont use clip-on shoes if cycling in the city - Great bike for getting around Dublin. I would bring it up some gravel paths such as Hellfire as well.

    I find my gravel bike much better cycling in an urban environment that my road bike - Just easier to use. I have mud guards, a pannier and have no issues. Also swapped the WTB RIDDLER tires with Marathon Smartguard 35 tires for the commute (and change the to riddler tires if doing a gravel cycle)

    I also have an old hybrid bike if locking it in a dodgy area.

    Would defo recommend a Gravel bike if commuting! Great for track-standing at lights!



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,291 ✭✭✭VonLuck


    What do you mean by your last point? I happen to haven been looking at the Giant Revolt as a potential purchase so would be curious if you have some opinions.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,287 ✭✭✭DaveyDave


    Now that road bikes have disc brakes you'd easily fit a 32-35c tyre for more comfort and you'll have no issue going for longer spins. I don't think a gravel bike is necessarily any better here especially if you look at endurance road frames.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,747 ✭✭✭MojoMaker


    Don't let the marketers hear you say that - sacrilege!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,484 ✭✭✭Macy0161


    It was more a comment on the TCX. I've been happy with my giants (not withstanding my irritation on the tyre clearance of my 2016 Defy Disc), but it would've been a wait (with no time frame given) for the Revolt. TCX and Topstone were in stock at the time, and the quick release of the TCX put me off. Both were previous models - I don't know if they're even doing a alu TCX anymore, but the "pro" is thru axle now, but they're not pushing the "do all" nature of it either.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,458 ✭✭✭Gerry


    would you notice the quick release though? particularly if its rear wheel only..

    I bought a caadx which has rear qr. hasnt been an issue. the crappy crankset has though, into the bin.

    Topstone does look like a nice bike.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,261 ✭✭✭saccades


    Planet X London Rd.

    Relaxed road geo, disc brakes, mounts for panniers and racks plus ability to stick a 42c in there (or 32c and mudguards).



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,484 ✭✭✭Macy0161


    I probably wouldn't notice - somewhat future proofing, and it was going to be predominantly gravel so preferred the more secure option.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,660 ✭✭✭wersal gummage


    Wondering if anyone with knowledge on this could help me out....


    I've decided to buy a gravel bike, also decided to go for a 2x group on basis of my sense that I'll have a greater range of gearing and, with a second set of wheels, this will be my winter bike in future as well....


    Looking at what is available, which isn't much, I'm wondering how the Sram 1x groups compare to the Shimano Grx 810.


    So. GRX 810, 48x31 with an 11-34 cassette I can understand,


    But then Sram 40 front, 10-50 cassette in 12 speed,


    And Sram 40 front, 10-44 cassette in 12 speed...


    I imagine I can find an online calculator and get % differences or whatever... But in real use, would there be any significant disadvantage in either of the Sram groups for someone doing a bit of gravel /trails /and a bit of winter cycling?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,184 ✭✭✭Paul Kiernan


    I'm planning on switching all my bikes (over time!) to x1. For me, there is absolutely no point in having the hassle of front ring shifting when I can get something like 44 front with 11-42 cassette. I'd be mainly using on-road though with only some gentle off-road e.g. no massive off-road climbing where you might need 40-50 type gearing. I've always used Shimano but my wife has the old Boards CX team with Sram Rival x1 and she loves it!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,270 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    I don't have any experience of SRAM 1x - but in Shimano, I find it challenging to make a 1x work for both road and gravel. I run 40t front, 11-42 on the back. 40-11 is not enough for a road group ride, whereas I like having the 40-42 for climbing on gravel. The gaps between gears can also be an issue. 40-10 would help a bit on fast road rides, but not really with gaps between gears on the road, particularly if you are going for 10-50.

    Shimano is definitely hindered by having a smallest small cog of 11. For now the only groupset I'd consider for road riding to go 1x would be Campag Ekar 1x13 with with a 42t front, 9-42 cassette.

    I think it ultimately depends on what type of road riding (e.g. faster group rides?) and what type of gravel riding (steep climbs needing a very low gear?). I'm a big fan of 1x but it just doesn't quite work for me on a road bike. On gravel it is great, and I don't understand why every single urban type bike doesn't have it. Who uses a front derailleur in a city?



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,660 ✭✭✭wersal gummage


    Thanks.

    Can't get no sleep, to be honest I'm unsure what I'll do with the bike. Based near city centre but will head for Dublin mountains and exore whatever paths or trails I can find that are suitable, as for road use, won't be group rides but occasional maybe 70 to 100km trip at relatively slow speed, probably 25km average with the usual hills around wicklow included.


    Shoikd say that, for the options I'm looking at, the sram is considerably more expensive than the grx but seems to be more available, or available sooner at least.


    Finally, I'm aware of Ekar but haven't seen it as an option on any of the bikes or websites I'm looking at, I don't want to spend 4 or 5 grand especially when I don't have a clear idea of what I'm planning to do with the bike



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,270 ✭✭✭CantGetNoSleep


    For that usage I'd definitely chance 1x. I hadn't noticed that you said 12-speed, I'd say the extra gear and 10 tooth sprocket would be an improvement on my set up as it would be a step in the right direction in terms of both gaps and highest gear.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,118 ✭✭✭Peterx


    I picked up an Aluminium Broadman CX8.9 secondhand. 44T single ring front and 11-42 on the 11 cassette with Sram Apex.

    I have panniers and proper mudguards fitted and am currently using 28mm slicks but the extra clearance is great as I can easily fit CX or gravel tyres up to 38mm wide for days with snow.

    It's a great commuter, the single biggest upgrade for me was the hydraulic disc brakes. They always work, unlike my previous commuter's rim brakes. It wasn't expensive secondhand and works great, every day. I was concerned I might need easier gearing to pull a bike trailer up hills but the easiest gear is just about easy enough. As I'm only commuting and not racing or riding in a group the upper end gearing is nearly irrelevant, I don't spin out, that's enough.

    tl:dr - a secondhand aluminium Gravel or CX bike that has loads of eyelets and hydraulic disc brakes is perfect for commuting



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,287 ✭✭✭DaveyDave


    If you're planning on going up the mountains or doing general road riding I'd say go for 2x for better gear selection. 1x doesn't make sense on the road in my opinion. I have 1x11 GRX on my road ebike, 42t cassette and 48t chainring. The cassette is awful, shifting into the 32-37-42 gears is clunky and the jump between some gears seems too high when upshifting because the cassette needs to be capable of going uphill and on the flat so it loses that closer gear ratio that a 2x would have. Since I'm only commuting on the flat, I'll be putting on a 32t cassette.

    I understand 1x for mountain biking or gravel but general road riding? Nope!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,484 ✭✭✭Macy0161


    tbh I'm not really convinced for Gravel either. There's enough steep climbs, and tarmac between gravel, that I think i'd find 1x gappy.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,660 ✭✭✭wersal gummage


    The Sram options (electronic v non electronic grx of course) are around 500 and 1k more expensive, so I'd nearly need a good reason to go for those, from reading all those comments there's no justification for me in spending more for the 1x, I'll hang on the few months longer for the 2x grx. Thanks



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