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'A' rated house but gaping vent holes

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 419 ✭✭Biker1


    What you have is a centralised mechanical extract ventilation system. The minimum required size equivalent permanent opening in the wall vents is 2500mm2, which is less than a 70mm diameter pipe. If positioned correctly with upward facing diffusers you will not feel ant draught from them.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,105 ✭✭✭silver_sky


    It only covers the bathrooms. All other rooms have the typical hole in the wall - so have ventilation but cold draughts.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 419 ✭✭Biker1


    Yes that is what a mechanical extract system is. The supply air for ventilation has to come from somewhere, hence the wall vents.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,171 ✭✭✭Bogwoppit


    I have a 2018 built bungalow, sliding sash windows all round and regular wall vents.

    I think our air tightness was about 4.5 when we did it.

    The condensation in the windows is terrible in cold weather, particularly in the bedrooms. The windows are timber and we’re starting to see some mould forming on the window frames.

    Have a guy coming next week to look at putting in an mhrv system, he said it would do a full room exchange about every 2 hours, I’m guessing this will go a long way towards solving the condensation issue.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 419 ✭✭Biker1


    If the airtightness test result was 4.5m3/hr/m2 then you first need to address the air leakage. No point putting in a MVHR with them results. Sliding sash windows are never airtight which would be adding to the condensation.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 37,675 ✭✭✭✭BorneTobyWilde


    Block em up.

    A car if left parked up for months will get mouldy and moist inside, as it has no vents! But if you're using your car, getting in and out of it, driving it, and using heater then a car NEVER moulds up while in use, and neither would his house if he blocked the vents, as people come and go, air gets in regardless, heating is on, windows are open.

    I'd block them, not a permanent job, but in cold weather, block em.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 46,890 ✭✭✭✭muffler




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,490 ✭✭✭✭Ush1


    You're going to always have some level of condensation with warm air hitting cold surfaces and vice versa, even with vents and open windows. In my experience it's the Irish winter which is wet and with big differences in outside and inside temps when heating is on. Ventilation is good for CO2 levels and smells etc but from what I've seen it won't stop some level of condensation, unless your house has no cold external surfaces.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 35,631 ✭✭✭✭Penn




  • Posts: 864 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Wait now. I have the same system, 150mm holes in the walls. Airbricks to the front of the house and round covers to the rear. The diffusers are facing down - but there isn't much of them anyway, as you can see straight through the diffusers in the airbricks into the room. Are they all the wrong way around?

    Post edited by [Deleted User] on


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,276 ✭✭✭RainInSummer


    Can I ask did you just install these on their own or as part of complete system? The blurb mentions that it is normally installed alongside an extraction system.



  • Administrators, Computer Games Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 32,786 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Mickeroo


    We have the extractors too, one in an en suite and the other in the main bathroom. Think the extractors we have are the Lunos Silvento, there's a few different ones they do I think.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,276 ✭✭✭RainInSummer


    Cheers.



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