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'A' rated house but gaping vent holes

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Comments

  • Subscribers Posts: 41,830 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    the BER system is absolutely NOT a measurement of the build quality of a structure.

    nor does it measure air infiltration.

    Air infiltration is measured as part of Part F compliance, through an air tightness test.

    If there is an air tightness test result, it can be included in the BER assessment, if theres none, then a default value is applied.


    the BER system is used to compare like with like properties... nothing more, no matter how SEAI sell it.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,599 ✭✭✭✭Flinty997


    Obviously windows and doors and construction techniques and materials are better. So there will be some improvement in a new build, for those reasons. But if its been built badly it will be compromised.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 46,304 ✭✭✭✭muffler


    I see there are plenty of trolls and bar stool experts in the forum these days.



  • Posts: 864 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    I've a 6" vent in every room. Front of the house (red brick) I've triple airbricks in front of each vent. Elsewhere, there's a circular vent cover. They may as well not be there, louvres do feck all.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 966 ✭✭✭oinkely


    We have mid 80s semi d and there were no vents in any of the rooms when we bought it. I have since added one to the small box room to help with condensation etc. I got acoustic vents which have a foam lining and baffles to minimise the ingress of noise and light and they work well. Condensation is reduced and while there is an increase in the noise you can hear from outside it is not too bad, considering the large hole that has been added to the wall. Definitely better than the standard hole with a bit of piping in it and a louvre on each end that is in the kitchen extension. I will get around to adding the same vent to the rest of the bedrooms at some stage and also replacing the current kitchen vent with the acoustic version to reduce the noise. Worth looking at these as an option rather than filling the hole. In the mean time its windows cracked in the non ventilated rooms when sleeping.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,599 ✭✭✭✭Flinty997


    Always wondered why they don't have cowls or simple baffles to stop direct airflow.



  • Administrators, Computer Games Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 32,394 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Mickeroo


    Have you a link to those acoustic vents you used?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 966 ✭✭✭oinkely




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,612 ✭✭✭Yellow_Fern




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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,086 ✭✭✭silver_sky


    Interesting thread. I've a 2021 A2-rated build and it's got these open sliding vents. Some rooms don't hold the heat so well - especially the living room where you can feel the cold air right at the back of your neck due to the positioning of the vent and room layout.

    The builders did go about putting a ventilation system (Vent Axia Multivent) for the bathrooms though. It sits in the attic and pipes up to it.

    I've been looking at single room ventilation with heat recovery to replace the existing open holes but not sure if this is the right way to go about it. Heating is gas but looking to change to heat pump in the next few years.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 393 ✭✭Biker1


    What you have is a centralised mechanical extract ventilation system. The minimum required size equivalent permanent opening in the wall vents is 2500mm2, which is less than a 70mm diameter pipe. If positioned correctly with upward facing diffusers you will not feel ant draught from them.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,086 ✭✭✭silver_sky


    It only covers the bathrooms. All other rooms have the typical hole in the wall - so have ventilation but cold draughts.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 393 ✭✭Biker1


    Yes that is what a mechanical extract system is. The supply air for ventilation has to come from somewhere, hence the wall vents.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,793 ✭✭✭Bogwoppit


    I have a 2018 built bungalow, sliding sash windows all round and regular wall vents.

    I think our air tightness was about 4.5 when we did it.

    The condensation in the windows is terrible in cold weather, particularly in the bedrooms. The windows are timber and we’re starting to see some mould forming on the window frames.

    Have a guy coming next week to look at putting in an mhrv system, he said it would do a full room exchange about every 2 hours, I’m guessing this will go a long way towards solving the condensation issue.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 393 ✭✭Biker1


    If the airtightness test result was 4.5m3/hr/m2 then you first need to address the air leakage. No point putting in a MVHR with them results. Sliding sash windows are never airtight which would be adding to the condensation.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 36,404 ✭✭✭✭BorneTobyWilde


    Block em up.

    A car if left parked up for months will get mouldy and moist inside, as it has no vents! But if you're using your car, getting in and out of it, driving it, and using heater then a car NEVER moulds up while in use, and neither would his house if he blocked the vents, as people come and go, air gets in regardless, heating is on, windows are open.

    I'd block them, not a permanent job, but in cold weather, block em.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 46,304 ✭✭✭✭muffler




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,476 ✭✭✭✭Ush1


    You're going to always have some level of condensation with warm air hitting cold surfaces and vice versa, even with vents and open windows. In my experience it's the Irish winter which is wet and with big differences in outside and inside temps when heating is on. Ventilation is good for CO2 levels and smells etc but from what I've seen it won't stop some level of condensation, unless your house has no cold external surfaces.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,210 ✭✭✭✭Penn




  • Posts: 864 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Wait now. I have the same system, 150mm holes in the walls. Airbricks to the front of the house and round covers to the rear. The diffusers are facing down - but there isn't much of them anyway, as you can see straight through the diffusers in the airbricks into the room. Are they all the wrong way around?

    Post edited by [Deleted User] on


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,270 ✭✭✭RainInSummer


    Can I ask did you just install these on their own or as part of complete system? The blurb mentions that it is normally installed alongside an extraction system.



  • Administrators, Computer Games Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 32,394 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Mickeroo


    We have the extractors too, one in an en suite and the other in the main bathroom. Think the extractors we have are the Lunos Silvento, there's a few different ones they do I think.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,270 ✭✭✭RainInSummer


    Cheers.



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