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The eBike thread

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,182 ✭✭✭✭Thargor


    It might fit, or you could put it on a carrier on the back, although that might ruin the looks a bit. Go to the carerra website and get the geometry and see.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 129 ✭✭Magzire


    I guess if i mount on the top of the frame the power cables wont reach? Is there cable extensions available?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,182 ✭✭✭✭Thargor


    You'll have no problem getting cables of any length you want, it might still be okay in the bottle cage holder though, I've definitely seen it done with one of those sloped top tubes on Andy Kirbys or someones videos.

    Thats a great looking bike by the way let us know how you get on.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 129 ✭✭Magzire


    Thanks will do. The bike itself was only cheap but upgraded everything. Nearly 400e worth. New brakes to 203mm/180mm. More gripper pedals(was best upgrade imo), Magnetism wheels with Maxxis aggressor 2.40 tyres(crazy grip, like stabilisers). Adjustable steering stem with ergonomic handlebar grips.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,182 ✭✭✭✭Thargor


    Do people find thumb throttles or grip shift throttles feel better in use?


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  • Posts: 21,179 ✭✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Thargor wrote: »
    Do people find thumb throttles or grip shift throttles feel better in use?

    Thumb for me. You can hold on to the handlebars better then if all you have to do is move your thumb. It can be difficult to keep power delivery smooth with hand throttle.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 449 ✭✭SCOL


    Thargor wrote: »
    Do people find thumb throttles or grip shift throttles feel better in use?

    I've used both and the thumb throttle is much better


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,182 ✭✭✭✭Thargor


    Thanks, any thoughts on 29/27.5" wheels vs 26" aswell? Much of a difference?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 449 ✭✭SCOL


    Thargor wrote: »
    Thanks, any thoughts on 29/27.5" wheels vs 26" aswell? Much of a difference?

    I don't think there is much of a difference, you will go a little faster with bigger wheels I assume somebody will come up with the formula.

    I use 29 inch narrow wheels on a hi bred bike at the moment, people don't know your on an e-bike. "Stealth"


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,740 ✭✭✭Mousewar


    Anyone else find that the second half of the battery drains a lot faster than the top half?
    Took the Kuma out at full battery. Went 20k all the way into the city centre. Liberal use of top power when needed. Still had five full bars of battery when I got there. Another 20k back home and it was down to 3 bars. Was happy with that.
    A few days later I decided to do a similar trip starting off with those 3 bars. It dropped down to one bar before I'd even got about 10k out. Switched to lowest power and made it although it was an unpleasant slog. Similar story home and it ran out leaving me 10k to go and no juice. It is a bit of a beast to cycle with no power and even in Level 1 assist it's hard going.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 66,660 ✭✭✭✭unkel


    When only half full, the voltage sag under full throttle might temporarily drop the voltage below the threshold from either controller or BMS, cutting off supply to the motor. What helps when you need to get some distance out of a nearly empty battery is to not use anywhere near full throttle


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 464 ✭✭nokiatom


    Mousewar wrote: »
    Anyone else find that the second half of the battery drains a lot faster than the top half?
    Took the Kuma out at full battery. Went 20k all the way into the city centre. Liberal use of top power when needed. Still had five full bars of battery when I got there. Another 20k back home and it was down to 3 bars. Was happy with that.
    A few days later I decided to do a similar trip starting off with those 3 bars. It dropped down to one bar before I'd even got about 10k out. Switched to lowest power and made it although it was an unpleasant slog. Similar story home and it ran out leaving me 10k to go and no juice. It is a bit of a beast to cycle with no power and even in Level 1 assist it's hard going.
    Top power eats power. I only use that when I have between a half and two thirds of my trip done. It's great to have that amount of battery left when your legs begin to tire. As the saying goes'' save the best for last''!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,740 ✭✭✭Mousewar


    Thanks for that.
    I do love my full power. I tend to use it to start off after every time I stop. The acceleration is just so good. And I use it on hills. As I said before, Level 1 assistance feels like no help at all so I rarely bother with it except downhill.
    I didn't feel like my usage was particularly different so just felt weird that the last three bars dissipated so much quicker than the first two bars.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 449 ✭✭SCOL


    Mousewar wrote: »
    Thanks for that.
    I do love my full power. I tend to use it to start off after every time I stop. The acceleration is just so good. And I use it on hills. As I said before, Level 1 assistance feels like no help at all so I rarely bother with it except downhill.
    I didn't feel like my usage was particularly different so just felt weird that the last three bars dissipated so much quicker than the first two bars.

    I used to ride flat out all the time, but now I drop it down to the 2 or 3 gears
    ( I have a mid Drive ) and let spin more with a bit less speed and the battery lasts a lot longer. My commute is about 25km and I could have 70% after I get into work.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 129 ✭✭Magzire


    Thargor wrote: »
    let us know how you get on.

    It battery unit didn't fit so I had to use 3 rivets nuts. Now I need to figure out to dampen the front spring so it won't compress into the battery.
    Oh and the motor only goes in half way into the bottom bracket and gets stuck. Will need to grind the inside. Another days work.

    F3fNt6O
    F3fNt6O.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 497 ✭✭loughside


    Magzire wrote: »
    It battery unit didn't fit so I had to use 3 rivets nuts. Now I need to figure out to dampen the front spring so it won't compress into the battery.
    Oh and the motor only goes in half way into the bottom bracket and gets stuck. Will need to grind the inside. Another days work.
    F3fNt6O


    Dampening wont be enough, thats an accident waiting to happen at the first big pothole, over the handlebars type! Even locking them out mightn't work.

    Only place seems to be on top of the crossbar back at the seatpost - not ideal either.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 129 ✭✭Magzire


    loughside wrote: »
    Dampening wont be enough, thats an accident waiting to happen at the first big pothole, over the handlebars type! Even locking them out mightn't work.

    Only place seems to be on top of the crossbar back at the seatpost - not ideal either.

    I'll give the seatpost a go, was going to add an extra drink holder there anyways


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 449 ✭✭SCOL


    Magzire wrote: »
    It battery unit didn't fit so I had to use 3 rivets nuts. Now I need to figure out to dampen the front spring so it won't compress into the battery.
    Oh and the motor only goes in half way into the bottom bracket and gets stuck. Will need to grind the inside. Another days work.

    F3fNt6O
    F3fNt6O.jpg

    You've spent probably around €1,000 it would be a shame to damage it. Would it be possible to change the frame ? I when onto DoneDeal and bought a 2 hand for €100, brought the battery with me just to make sure it would fit. you could put the components from one bike to another.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 66,660 ✭✭✭✭unkel


    That battery looks massive. Do you need all that range? If not, you could get a smaller one. If you do need all that range, you could maybe get two smaller packs? My own battery is modular so I could go out with one of them or I could parallel the other one to it for long range. My battery is 52V nominal and either 6 or 12Ah. Total battery cost was just over €100 brand new :p


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,023 ✭✭✭✭the_amazing_raisin


    Just wondering if anyone here has tried the Rockrider E-ST100 or 500? Decalthon are selling them and they seem to be some of the cheapest e-bikes out there while still being high quality

    I'm toying with the idea of getting an e-bike next year, partly for commuting so the electric motor would be handy for the long uphill ride home. I used to have a trail bike and I really like being able to take it offroad a bit which is something I feel commuter and road bikes really aren't capable of

    I wouldn't be covering huge distances (20-30km max), so I feel for me the extra weight and bulk of an eMTB are worth it for what I'm looking for.

    "The internet never fails to misremember" - Sebastian Ruiz, aka Frost



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,210 ✭✭✭nelly17


    SCOL wrote: »
    You've spent probably around €1,000 it would be a shame to damage it. Would it be possible to change the frame ? I when onto DoneDeal and bought a 2 hand for €100, brought the battery with me just to make sure it would fit. you could put the components from one bike to another.

    Will that wheel not hit the battery when the susension compresses? Looks like 100mm travel


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 129 ✭✭Magzire


    nelly17 wrote: »
    Will that wheel not hit the battery when the susension compresses? Looks like 100mm travel

    It will on a heavy bump, but was thinking inserting something like hard rubber inside the springs to stop compression.
    I'll try mount on top of frame


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 92 ✭✭jc bamford


    loughside wrote: »
    Dampening wont be enough, thats an accident waiting to happen at the first big pothole, over the handlebars type! Even locking them out mightn't work.

    Only place seems to be on top of the crossbar back at the seatpost - not ideal either.

    There is a bike on Done Deal with that setup

    https://www.donedeal.ie/bicycles-for-sale/an-electric-bike-in-good-condition/27596691

    It looks a bit top heavy but might be OK


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 129 ✭✭Magzire


    5hy6rvR.jpg

    Seems to be 5mm short. I cant fully screw in the motor bracket or the last nut. But seems rock solid at the moment.

    P8hO6Xu.jpg

    No sure what do. When i measure the distance its 73mm

    They advertise : Bracket bottom length:68mm
    This mid drive motor designed to fit bike with a 68mm (2.68inch) or 73mm (2.87inch) wide bottom bracket. The inner
    diameter of the bracket should be not less than 33.5mm. We will send extra washers and bolts for 73mm bottom bracket.

    Not sure what the last part means as it to short anyways.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,182 ✭✭✭✭Thargor


    Give the top tube a try for the battery, I haven't built an ebike yet but I have a massive top tube bag on my commuter that I thought was obscene when it came in the post but I tried it and its perfectly usable in practice and now I love it, my legs never touch it even when its full of gloves and masks and a litre of milk and other shopping.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 129 ✭✭Magzire


    And......... it didnt come with this cable
    7rOBTG6.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 449 ✭✭SCOL


    Magzire wrote: »
    5hy6rvR.jpg

    Seems to be 5mm short. I cant fully screw in the motor bracket or the last nut. But seems rock solid at the moment.

    P8hO6Xu.jpg

    No sure what do. When i measure the distance its 73mm

    They advertise : Bracket bottom length:68mm
    This mid drive motor designed to fit bike with a 68mm (2.68inch) or 73mm (2.87inch) wide bottom bracket. The inner
    diameter of the bracket should be not less than 33.5mm. We will send extra washers and bolts for 73mm bottom bracket.

    Not sure what the last part means as it to short anyways.

    Use washers to shim it out or use a different screw.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 129 ✭✭Magzire


    SCOL wrote: »
    Use washers to shim it out or use a different screw.

    Yep understand now


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 449 ✭✭SCOL


    Looking at the photos again, I'd leave it alone mine is the same the piece you have in your hand is loose on mine but as long as the motor is screwed tight to the frame it OK.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 129 ✭✭Magzire


    I added the those 5mm washers just to be safe.
    I got the new chain on and gave it a spin without the battery pack, amazed how normal it felt and really didn't notice the extra weight of the motor. So glad i can still use it for normal exercise without feeling like crap to cycle.


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