Dead battery.

Sounds more like a blown fuse.

Richard tea wrote: »

It's charging at the moment. The charger indicated 25% charged. Currently on 50% now. If the fuse was gone would the dash still light up when I switch the ignition on? I have checked all fused visually and all look fine.

What bike have you got?
There could be a fuse that goes between the power and CDI that would be seperate to the dash lights.

If your rectifier / alternator circuit isn't right then you could be facing an issue there too, where it isn't able to generate enough power to keep the battery charged and make a spark.

Richard tea wrote: »

Honda nc750x 2014. I have experience testing reg/rec issues so I'll have a look when the battery charges (if it does).

Do they use self resetting relays instead of fuses?
Would definitely isolate that from being the problem.

as far as I know, even if the battery is dead some bikes can run off the power from the Reg/rec once you get the bump started.

No idea about the NC750x
I know some of the older bikes will start with a downhill roll in 3rd gear

In my experience with Honda, its the RR or stator.

Low batteries can cause strange things to happen, especially on more electronically advanced machines like bikes of the last 10 or 15 years. You could get away with weaker batteries on carbed bikes because your fueling system isn't dependent on electrics there. Different with fuel injection.

Optimate chargers seem to have a good record with bringing batteries back to life and desulphating them and all of that stuff but, if I were you, for peace of mind I'd buy a new battery. It is possible that your battery, which I assume hasn't had a charge in 5 months, just won't hold charge so the bike may be trying but it's a dud piece in your charging circuit now.

Check your fuses, check your earth/ground points on the bike (usually to the chassis, just make sure they're clean and tight), check any connections in the charging system (those white plastic three-pin connectors joining the three yellow wires from the stator to the charging system can end up melting on some late 90s Hondas). Ultimately, I reckon it's the battery though, Honda charging systems used to be fragile but that hasn't been the case for years now.

Speaking generally on the subject its worthwhile fitting a voltmeter to any bike.
If numbers mean nothing to you then this is pretty foolproof and cheap

http://sparkbright.co.uk/battery-voltage-monitors.php

I use an argus battery bug which shows real-time voltage and % cca loss from start to start graphically. It sounds an audible bleep when the battery has a couple starts left in her. A real bacon saver.

Richard tea wrote: »

looks like a badly corroded connector going to the reg/rec. I damaged the connector trying to remove the spade connector. How to I work out the size connector I need? Its a long shot but would the black plastic connector be something I can pick up at a motor factors/halfords? or is it Honda specific?

You might be able to get the spade connectors themselves to put into the housing.
Halfords would sell something like that.

Those are proprietary Honda connectors, also used on the 1000cc 'blades
You will have trouble with the other one as well looking at the verdigris on the wiring.
That is salt corrosion from the road salt.
If you intend to keep it for a while I would consider getting a replacement RR with sealed plugs.
In the meantime I would definitely open both those connectors and give them a good wash with hot water and some baking soda and scrub them out. Dry them off and refit with some silicone grease or Vaseline at a pinch,slather them liberally so no more salty water gets into them or you will have further problems.
Also check the stator to RR wires there is another plug that connects the three yellow from the stator to the three yellow that go into the RR and that will give trouble as well if water has entered it.
Those poxy Honda engineers specced a unique connector just for those RR units, others have the Shindengen QLW sealed type which are better sealed.

CJhaughey wrote: »

I think it is the width of the spade in the actual RR unit. I have been caught before with the old H4 bulbs thinking they were the standard 1/4" spades that you can buy anywhere but they were extremely tight and hard to fit.
I then discovered the different width terminals :rolleyes:
Sometimes you can force them on, but with cheap terminals they often fracture and that is one connection you really want to have a proper connection.
I would recommend crimping and soldering to make a really good connection, you need all the available current passing through those connectors and any dodgy ones won't give you reliable current.

Don't forget the 4.8mm spades either

Richard tea wrote: »

pic for info

Looking at that pic, it seems like the r/r is mounted in front of the rear wheel where all manner of stuff is probably flung at it. It might be worth making up a little cover or a flap to keep the worst off but still allow air to flow through the fins.

As others have mentioned, waterproof connections would be the best thing here. Dilectric grease liberally applied will help with non-wp connectors.

You can get electrical contact cleaner spray (e.g. Servisol) which is better for cleaning out switches than WD40 although the latter would probably usually do the job. Great for crackly radio / amp knobs

Dunno if it's still a thing but years ago you could get sprays intended to coat car ignition leads to keep damp out.

Put silicone grease on the connector terminals, don't worry about using too much any excess will be pushed out and just wipe it off. The idea is that you will still get the necessary metal-to-metal contact but the grease will keep moisture and oxygen away. Great stuff on aerial / satellite TV connections too.

A clutch switch carries no real current though, a brake light switch has a much harder job!