Home heating automation

deezell wrote: »

The Allen relay seems to actuated by a 24v volt supply, from the UFH controller? Your sonoff relays gangs can be wired independent of the mains, I think they are volt free. Simply wiring one of these in series with either the relay actuating voltage, or the connection to the boiler would do.

I think I understand.

I was hoping to use the cable already in the home control box marked "brown to gas boiler", (the one I have the phase tester on in the picture) as it already seems to be connected to the Allen but I understand what you are saying.

Basically I could re route the 24 volt line currently feeding the Allen relay and run it via the sonoff, and leave the timer on constantly and instead use the sonoff as my "timer". I understand and it would work.

You are 100% correct about the sonoff, it's basically just a 4 gang switch, the gangs are not powered from mains.

I will have another look in the morning and see if I can figure this out some more. That boiler cable and a few "spare line to home control" cables are bugging me in that box and I would love to get them put to use and tidied up

lausp wrote: »

I think I understand.

I was hoping to use the cable already in the home control box marked "brown to gas boiler", (the one I have the phase tester on in the picture) as it already seems to be connected to the Allen but I understand what you are saying.

Basically I could re route the 24 volt line currently feeding the Allen relay and run it via the sonoff, and leave the timer on constantly and instead use the sonoff as my "timer". I understand and it would work.

You are 100% correct about the sonoff, it's basically just a 4 gang switch, the gangs are not powered from mains.

I will have another look in the morning and see if I can figure this out some more. That boiler cable and a few "spare line to home control" cables are bugging me in that box and I would love to get them put to use and tidied up

Yes, that will do. Just keep mains away from any sonoff relay terminals you use. While live mains is habitually used to signal boilers to fire, your boiler requires a volt free closure on 3 and 4 (though it could be internal mains that is being switched). Hence, the original install used an isolating Allen relay. Its also less usual that the boiler call signalling from the UFH unit is 24v, not volt free or mains, again, you don't want to accidentally get mains across this signal if you choose to interrupt it, as it would fry your UFH controller if that is the source, though I do see another transformer on the rack. Anyway, you have it sussed. It will be satisfying to get this function working, set up a heating schedule, if you want use IFTTT or other to create away mode etc.

Back with more issues...

My 28-30mm adaptors finally arrived, and I fitted them last night.

I put a general climate setting on the 3 rooms in question, they're spare rooms, office/gym rooms etc that don't need much heat, but at the same time I don't want them sub zero. So I set a 24 hour minimum of 15 degrees.

Came in from work today and one was at 17, one at 19 and one at 24!

So they're not behaving as they should. They're set up correctly and assigned to the rooms, but the one in the 24 degree room in particular was pretty hot.

Does this suggest that the TRVs are not getting on well with the adaptors? I don't see any other reason why the heat wouldn't go off.

See attached. And don't laugh, "posh living room" was what I grew up calling a second living room in other people's houses. Now I have one, so it's the posh living room.

DrPhilG wrote: »

Back with more issues...

My 28-30mm adaptors finally arrived, and I fitted them last night.

I put a general climate setting on the 3 rooms in question, they're spare rooms, office/gym rooms etc that don't need much heat, but at the same time I don't want them sub zero. So I set a 24 hour minimum of 15 degrees.

Came in from work today and one was at 17, one at 19 and one at 24!

So they're not behaving as they should. They're set up correctly and assigned to the rooms, but the one in the 24 degree room in particular was pretty hot.

Does this suggest that the TRVs are not getting on well with the adaptors? I don't see any other reason why the heat wouldn't go off.

See attached. And don't laugh, "posh living room" was what I grew up calling a second living room in other people's houses. Now I have one, so it's the posh living room.

Probably a stupid question but I have to ask....you did calibrate them?

DrPhilG wrote: »

That's possibly part of the problem.

I did calibrate them when adding them. But that living room one that's going haywire didn't calibrate.

Today I removed it and added it again, and again when I turned the stat to the minus side, it didn't calibrate.

It also now says that the room is 25 degrees...

The gym is now also increasing to 20.5 degrees even though the rad is cool.

When calibrating did you twist and hold on the plus position until the lights flashed? Then the minus when fitted?

Another question regarding the adapters, when screwing them on did you feel the adapter pushing in the pin on the valve? I had this problem with one of my adapters which meant though the trv wasn't calling for heat if another room was that rad would heat up. Sorry if that's a bit confusing.

Ps just got home after being out for an hour.

Rads in all 3 of those rooms are warm.

The valve definitely isn't closing the pin properly and they're still heating. Since all 3 are doing it to varying levels, I think it's most likely that the adaptors are not fit for purpose.

Just reset everything in the room again. Took the TRV off and screwed on the adaptor. Made sure that there was resistance but I could push the pin in manually.

Then reset the TRV again, and added it. This time it did seem to calibrate, blue light came on and the groaning/grinding noise for about 5-10 seconds.

I'll see how it goes now.

deezell wrote: »

Adapters are a bit of a minefield. Was looking through some info from Drayton, they linked a company for adapters, they had adapters for the same thread, say 28 to 30, but for differing brands of valve, so even valves with a similar thread might have a different pin depth and travel. I'll try find that link. Can you read the brand name off those 28mm valves?

Don't see a brand on them.

They cost £8 or so each. Plumber says he can replace the joint with a standard 30mm for about a tenner.

More work as he'll have to drain the system etc but given that the rad in the living room is staying hot at the top but cool at the bottom, he might need to remove and flush it anyway.

DrPhilG wrote: »

Don't see a brand on them.

They cost £8 or so each. Plumber says he can replace the joint with a standard 30mm for about a tenner.

More work as he'll have to drain the system etc but given that the rad in the living room is staying hot at the top but cool at the bottom, he might need to remove and flush it anyway.

Defo change the valve is the best option, have them all standard 30mm. If its not breaking the bank, go for it.

Have you placed the battery stat in the same location as the TRV, say sitting on top if it. It might read a bit higher so close to the radiant heat of the rad.

deezell wrote: »

Have you placed the battery stat in the same location as the TRV, say sitting on top if it. It might read a bit higher so close to the radiant heat of the rad.

I've disconnected the 3 stats now and put the old ones back.

Left the Wiser stats sitting side by side with the battery ones to check.

CrazyFather1 wrote: »

Just bought the Wiser and hope it arrives tomorrow. Should I be concerned the rad stats won't work? or do I need to buy something now.

Was going Tado but I decided against because of the recurring charge.

The only issue I've had is I needed to get adapters for the rad valves as mine were 28mm diameter with a 1.0 thread. The Wiser only comes with 1 adapter however if your valves are 30 x 1.5 you should be fine.

CrazyFather1 wrote: »

Thanks for all the help, I currently have a climote. Which was supposed to be taken out but the electrician hasn't come with covid. I took it off and had a look at the back plane.

Am I correct the wiring on the climote is the same as a standard? e.g. the 1234 on the climote will be the same as the standard back place?

Yes, the base for the 2 zone wiser hubr is the same as your second image, which is an eziprog. N, L, then HW on 3 and CH on 4. Discard the links to 1 and 2, COM is wired internally. Note that the Climote is the reverse on 3 and 4, CH on 3 and HW on 4, so reverse black and grey wires.

CrazyFather1 wrote: »

Thanks, the eziprog was supposed to be installed a few weeks back The Climote is going into a holiday home. Looks like I might be trying to do myself

So from the image

I will have 1 & 2 not connected
3 will be black wire and 4 will be grey?

Yes, for either the eziprog or the Wiser you're expecting.