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Have to hang a TV on a plasterboard wall, will this do?

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24

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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,004 ✭✭✭FileNotFound


    If you don't have a stud detector just make a hole in the wall (small) in pretty much the planned bracket location and use a wire hager to locate the stud then.

    Tv and bracket will hide the damage or worst case some filler.

    At least you will have found the stud and the TV is safe.


  • Registered Users Posts: 489 ✭✭grassylawn


    Gripits are good for plasterboard. I've used them for lots of stuff. Heaviest is probably 6kg mirror but that is also into stud. Most punishment would be blind and heavy curtains especially since structure of our windows/walls means they are into plasterboard only.

    Geefix are even stronger I think, but they are less versatile. I usually use the strongest gripits that will fit.

    IIRC both of these are viable for thinner than typical plasterboard walls. Some of our walls are thinner than normal and a lot of fixings are specified as being incompatible.


  • Registered Users Posts: 23,293 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    Toggle bolts are your friend here. Look up the strength tests on YouTube.

    https://youtu.be/lHb-Tcvkn7M

    Interesting tests and glad he did the pull out tests as well as the in line test.
    The problem with the results is that his findings will differ hugely from what could be supported in the long term. If the board failed at 50 kg outward pull for example, a long term loading of maybe a third of that could also cause failure. Add in localised damage within an existing plasterboard wall that might reduce its ability to withstand such force and you could find a safe working load instead of being 50kg might be 10kg pull out force.
    Force on fixings from a tv extended out on a swing stand could be huge depending on design of wall bracket etc.
    Madness to even consider fixing to plasterboard.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,004 ✭✭✭FileNotFound


    mickdw wrote: »
    Interesting tests and glad he did the pull out tests as well as the in line test.
    The problem with the results is that his findings will differ hugely from what could be supported in the long term. If the board failed at 50 kg outward pull for example, a long term loading of maybe a third of that could also cause failure. Add in localised damage within an existing plasterboard wall that might reduce its ability to withstand such force and you could find a safe working load instead of being 50kg might be 10kg pull out force.
    Force on fixings from a tv extended out on a swing stand could be huge depending on design of wall bracket etc.
    Madness to even consider fixing to plasterboard.

    Given the average drag that anyone can give a TV on a hanging bracket or a kid.

    Only way I'd hang is solid into stud or Wall. Imagine it came down on your child never mind the bloody wall.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 294 ✭✭Malcomex


    Given the average drag that anyone can give a TV on a hanging bracket or a kid.

    Only way I'd hang is solid into styf or Wall. Imagine it came down on your child never mind the bloody wall.

    Madness to even consider it

    Anyone that does a lot of drilling and fixing wouldn't even consider it

    Like u said ,it.might stay there until disturbed and then fall down on top of a child's head


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  • Registered Users Posts: 461 ✭✭SoapMcTavish




  • Registered Users Posts: 158 ✭✭Horusire


    If it's dot and dab I have used these to mount my 14kg TV on a swing arm. I stitched the bracket to the wall though. 100kg a fixing seemingly and I used 6. Didn't want TV on ground

    Corefix Heavy Duty Dot & Dab Wall Fixing for Flat Screen TVs, Radiators, Wall Cabinets & Shelving | 24 Box https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B072JYXJL6/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_apa_fabc_KXQGVWPWX7M6FGBQV4GS


  • Registered Users Posts: 23,366 ✭✭✭✭ted1


    Any recommendations? Thanks

    A compass. Knock on the wall till you think you found a stud. Stick in the compass and see if it hits a stud or hollow. Repeat till you find one when you do. You can repeat till so you can find the centre of the stud. Holes are tiny and will be covered by the bracket.
    Drill a pilot hole , And then hang the bracket with coach screws.

    I tend to us brackets that span two studs. Don’t trust single arm ones

    These type : VonHaus 23-55 Inch TV Wall Bracket – Tilt and Swivel Mount for VESA Compatible Screens, 45kg Weight Capacity https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00N50Q66Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_AD0ZW286PSDWE1NWGCTX


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,827 ✭✭✭fred funk }{


    Malcomex wrote: »
    He's hanging a 40" tv on a swingarm

    How is anyone realistically suggesting the slab will hold it?

    The mind boggle sometimes

    Now maybe it will sit there until disturbed but that's not what you'd call safe

    Oops.....missed that it was on a swing arm. Fixing into stud or new timber a must.


  • Registered Users Posts: 10,620 ✭✭✭✭okidoki987


    Cheers for suggestions.
    Looks like fixing straight onto plasterboard not the way to go so will fix using alternative means.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,004 ✭✭✭FileNotFound


    okidoki987 wrote: »
    Cheers for suggestions.
    Looks like fixing straight onto plasterboard not the way to go so will fix using alternative means.

    Well the stud is behind your plasterboard. Just got to ensure you screw into it.

    Just incase - a stud is a timber behind the plasterboard in non solid (non concrete block) walls. They are all along the wall at 400mm (maybe a chippy can correct this if my understanding is wrong) apart.

    So either way you are connecting through the plasterboard you just have to screw through enough to bite into timber or concrete.

    Apologies if you already knew this


  • Registered Users Posts: 249 ✭✭dp639


    Use a frame fixing and go through the plasterboard to the block - if you do this you'd be able to swing on it yourself!


  • Registered Users Posts: 39,133 ✭✭✭✭Mellor


    OP has said this is a plasterboard wall. No idea why people keep referring to blockwork behind plasterboard. I'd assume OP would have mention block is they were there.

    Blocks with dabbed plasterboard over is a blockwork wall, not a plasterboard wall.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,507 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner


    they also said there is no studs either. there has to be something in there holding it up


  • Registered Users Posts: 39,133 ✭✭✭✭Mellor


    they also said there is no studs either. there has to be something in there holding it up

    He said there was no studs in that location, not there there were no studs in the entire wall.

    Would be very easy for the bracket to fall between two studs when exactly centred on the room.
    Could also be metal studs. which might not be as apparent.
    If an external wall, it could is insulated PB which which conceal the presence of studs.

    Lots of possibilities without assuming there's unaware that it's a block wall. But I suppose that s possible too.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,004 ✭✭✭FileNotFound


    Mellor wrote: »
    He said there was no studs in that location, not there there were no studs in the entire wall.

    Would be very easy for the bracket to fall between two studs when exactly centred on the room.
    Could also be metal studs. which might not be as apparent.
    If an external wall, it could is insulated PB which which conceal the presence of studs.

    Lots of possibilities without assuming there's unaware that it's a block wall. But I suppose that s possible too.

    studs are a foot apart - most arms cover that - that seems like nonsense haha

    solution to OP question. drill a smallhole through the wall where you want the bracket and find out if there is blocks behind or fish for nearest stud.


  • Registered Users Posts: 39,133 ✭✭✭✭Mellor


    studs are a foot apart - most arms cover that - that seems like nonsense haha
    A foot? Not quite. Standard spacing is 400mm. But many modern extendable brackets have a single line of fixings. So there’s not much lateral adjustment
    And even if the bracket is a foot wide. The fixing points may not land on studs. Aligning them means it’s off centre.

    L


  • Registered Users Posts: 14,827 ✭✭✭✭loyatemu


    Mellor wrote: »
    A foot? Not quite. Standard spacing is 400mm. But many modern extendable brackets have a single line of fixings. So there’s not much lateral adjustment
    And even if the bracket is a foot wide. The fixing points may not land on studs. Aligning them means it’s off centre.

    L

    then put a 400mm wide piece of wood screwed to the studs and hang the bracket from that?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,004 ✭✭✭FileNotFound


    Mellor wrote: »
    A foot? Not quite. Standard spacing is 400mm. But many modern extendable brackets have a single line of fixings. So there’s not much lateral adjustment
    And even if the bracket is a foot wide. The fixing points may not land on studs. Aligning them means it’s off centre.

    L

    I was being an ass hahaha - you will see i said 400mm in an earlier post.

    Look Loyatemu thought on it for a second and has presented a solution - 2 mins in B&Q looking at fixings would present 10 more.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,205 ✭✭✭cruizer101


    OP
    okidoki987 wrote: »
    Don't really want to have to put up a support board onto the wall if I can get away with it.
    loyatemu wrote: »
    then put a 400mm wide piece of wood screwed to the studs and hang the bracket from that?

    The point was OP was looking for alternatives to that


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  • Registered Users Posts: 39,133 ✭✭✭✭Mellor


    Look Loyatemu thought on it for a second and has presented a solution - 2 mins in B&Q looking at fixings would present 10 more.

    That solution was literally what the OP didn’t want to do. And I agree with him, it would look messy.

    And as others have pointed out. There’s no magic fixings that will do this. A flush mount, sure not a problem. But a fixed mount is basically a big lever prying the fixing out every time you extend it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,004 ✭✭✭FileNotFound


    Mellor wrote: »
    That solution was literally what the OP didn’t want to do. And I agree with him, it would look messy.

    And as others have pointed out. There’s no magic fixings that will do this. A flush mount, sure not a problem. But a fixed mount is basically a big lever prying the fixing out every time you extend it.

    There are loads of options if your anyway practical minded.

    Most he has to make up is 20cm


  • Registered Users Posts: 39,133 ✭✭✭✭Mellor


    There are loads of options if your anyway practical minded.

    Most he has to make up is 20cm
    There are options that involved doing it properly with proper support. It's not that big a deal.

    But I can't think how picking up a fixing is B&Q is an option. But by all means, if you can share away.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,307 ✭✭✭✭salmocab


    There are loads of options if your anyway practical minded.

    Most he has to make up is 20cm

    You don’t know that, your making an assumption about the build. Maybe it’s a wall some DIYer closed up.


  • Registered Users Posts: 14,827 ✭✭✭✭loyatemu


    Mellor wrote: »
    That solution was literally what the OP didn’t want to do. And I agree with him, it would look messy.

    it's going to be under the mount, and behind the TV. Paint it the same colour as the wall and it will barely be noticeable.

    These are the options from what we've been told

    1. screw into a stud - X no studs available at that location
    2. screw into solid wall behind - X there's no solid wall behind
    3. use heavy duty hollow wall fixings - X they won't support a cantilevered mount
    4. screw some wood between the studs - X too messy
    5. cut a hole in the wall and reinforce it from behind, then re-plaster. This also sounds pretty messy but it's the only one left.


  • Registered Users Posts: 39,133 ✭✭✭✭Mellor


    loyatemu wrote: »
    it's going to be under the mount, and behind the TV. Paint it the same colour as the wall and it will barely be noticeable.
    For a fixed bracket, it’d be cover. But an swing arm will leave it visible. If your going to do it, do it right imo.
    5. cut a hole in the wall and reinforce it from behind, then re-plaster. This also sounds pretty messy but it's the only one left.
    That’s the option I referred to above. It’s a bit of extra work, cutting/patching. But shouldn’t leave any mess or be visible.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,302 ✭✭✭The Mulk


    loyatemu wrote: »
    it's going to be under the mount, and behind the TV. Paint it the same colour as the wall and it will barely be noticeable.

    These are the options from what we've been told

    1. screw into a stud - X no studs available at that location
    2. screw into solid wall behind - X there's no solid wall behind
    3. use heavy duty hollow wall fixings - X they won't support a cantilevered mount
    4. screw some wood between the studs - X too messy
    5. cut a hole in the wall and reinforce it from behind, then re-plaster. This also sounds pretty messy but it's the only one left.

    If it's a stud wall Option 5 is the only long-term safe option for this.
    Find the studs, use a stanley knife and a pad saw, remove a portion of the plasterboard. Mount a proper grounds, replace plaster board, tape and joint.
    I've done this numerous times at home now for TV's, extra kitchen presses and vertical rads.
    It can be messy, but once it is filled and painted it isn't noticeable and hanging the bracket is easy


  • Registered Users Posts: 23,366 ✭✭✭✭ted1


    Mellor wrote: »
    A foot? Not quite. Standard spacing is 400mm. But many modern extendable brackets have a single line of fixings. So there’s not much lateral adjustment
    And even if the bracket is a foot wide. The fixing points may not land on studs. Aligning them means it’s off centre.

    L
    The fixing points should land on a stud as that’s what you mount them to. The TV can then slide along the rail. I.e the bracket doesn’t have to sit Center behind the TV. So no it won’t be off center

    Here’s a bracket. Lots of holes to allign with studs. And room to slide TV to Center on wall
    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=541881&stc=1&d=1612355858


  • Registered Users Posts: 27,121 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    OP, assuming its a stud/partition wall, whats on the other side?

    You dont need to cut open the wall on the side you are fixing to, you can do it from the other side just as easily (and often that other side will be in/behind a wardrobe etc and so your plasterboard patching skills dont need to be top notch.

    If its just plasterboard over concrete/block wall then just frame fixings and dont even worry about the plasterboard.

    I guess basically we need more info before we can offer an more suggestions :)


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  • Registered Users Posts: 11,307 ✭✭✭✭salmocab


    ted1 wrote: »
    The fixing points should land on a stud as that’s what you mount them to. The TV can then slide along the rail. I.e the bracket doesn’t have to sit Center behind the TV. So no it won’t be off center

    Here’s a bracket. Lots of holes to allign with studs. And room to slide TV to Center on wall
    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=541881&stc=1&d=1612355858

    It’s an extendable arm that’s been spoken about here for the mount.


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