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New Consumer Unit recommendations

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  • 25-09-2020 4:11pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 1,874 ✭✭✭


    So I'm in a 30 year old house and the consumer unit is a bit aged now. It is a 24-mod unit and it's completely full. Have also been having intermittent tripping on the sockets RCD.



    I was getting a new EV charger installed and the electrician remarked that the main fuse connection is loose - he tightened it best he could - and the fusebox is knackered and I should get a new one along with getting the circuits tested for leakage etc.

    I suppose it is reasonable to look to replace the whole fusebox? Bit of a shame that the EV guy put in a separate RCBO unit now because I asked him at the start about replacing the fusebox and he said no and proceeded with putting in the separate unit and then he tells me that the fusebox could do with replacing.

    Any recommendations for which brand fusebox I should go for? Schneider or Garo? Should I buy the unit and the RCBOs myself or let him or whoever does the install supply it?
    He was saying to replace the RCD feeding into multiple MCBs with separate RCBOs - seems a bit excessive to me.

    Photo attached. The Stotz on the bottom right is the one that keeps tripping. The red main MCB on the far left bottom is a bit wonky.

    Any recommendations on what I should get done?


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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 2,567 ✭✭✭Risteard81


    Hager for me.

    You shouldn't buy it - your Electrician should.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,533 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    Avoid Garo like the plague.

    I would go for ABB, Hager or Schnieder.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,874 ✭✭✭garo


    Thanks both. The electrician was recommending Garo. When I said Schneider he seemed unsure. Maybe I need a different electrician?

    You are agreed that that CU could do with replacing?

    Finally is the standard now to have a dedicated RCBO per circuit? No RCD going to multiple RCBOs?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,874 ✭✭✭garo


    2011 wrote: »
    Avoid Garo like the plague.

    That’s a bit hard for me to do. :P Look at my username.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,052 ✭✭✭Tuco88


    Garo are not great at all imo. I was never really a fan of GE also but definitely better than Garo. GE used to have a nice metal DB tho, just pefect to fill with Hager equipment ��

    90% of electrical suppliers will stock Hager gear too.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 5 Dubsparkie


    I also have always avoided Garo, had a lot of bad experiences with them and Robus while we are at it. Hager has always been the leader for me.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,874 ✭✭✭garo


    Just for closure I went with a full Hager install. Couldn’t be happier with the new CU and all new MCBs, 3 new RCDs and main switch. Reused the year old Solar RCBO (Garo!) and the week old EV RCBO (GE).

    One question: I have the cooker, washer and dryer off the same MCB and RCD. THE RCD is fine, it’s 63A but the MCB is 20A Hager MBN120A. Each device would draw ~10A at peak. While I don’t use all three at the same time usually, never say never. Is this a risk? Should I get the spark to move the cooker circuit to another lower load socket circuit which is protected by the same RCD? Looking at the Hager MCB spec sheet it should trip after 400 seconds at 1.5 times the load. I can live with a rare trip but is it a safety issue?


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,533 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    An electric cooker would be best fed from a dedicated MCB.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,052 ✭✭✭Tuco88


    I wouldnt be mixing brands of MCB/RCBOs thats just me.

    A cooker is typically on its own circuit and is usually 32Amp MCB, it definitely should not be shared with sockets (Unless you mean just the oven seprate appliance) I don't think its the norm to have the Cooker on an RCD also.

    I would also have the Dryer on its own circuit. And the washing machine on its own. If not possible id balance the two appliances over other circuits in the room.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,874 ✭✭✭garo


    Sorry I keep making this mistake. I meant Electric Oven and not cooker. Our cooker is gas. The oven draws 2400W and is on a dedicated circuit. The washer and dryer are on their dedicated circuit too. It’s just the MCB and RCD that are shared for all the circuits.

    The Oven wasn’t on an RCD in the previous setup but during the new install I asked the sparks to put it in a RCD.

    @Tuco88: yeah not ideal to be mixing stuff but the two “off-label” RCBOs are for the dedicated Solar PV and EV charger circuits, installed recently and do not share anything with any of the other MCBs apart from the main in.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,052 ✭✭✭Tuco88


    I would definitely agree to have the oven on an RCD, good move there.

    Its more of an OCD thing mixing manufacturers equipment. You just have to be aware of the terminals might not line up correctly for busbar, They might fit but usually distorts the busbar. Not a problem if panel flex is used.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,874 ✭✭✭garo


    Thanks Tuco. Yeah I agree. The GE RCBO is just a teeny bit askew and that annoys me. Fortunately the Hager CU comes with a cover so I don’t have to look at it! The sparks was fine with it safety wise and he is an experienced hand so I skimped on the extra RCBO cost. The state the old CU was in previously - with non-RCD protected circuits and non-ferrule terminations, this is a massive improvement.

    So I take it a 20A MCB protecting both the washer/dryer circuit and the cooker circuit is not a big deal?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,052 ✭✭✭Tuco88


    You just have to allow for diversity ( Ideally not running both the same time). I don't know the kW of the Dryer or washing machine. If you had both large appliances say 3kW each running both on the same circuit its 26amps not ideal. If it was a fuse it will blow around ~27/28Amps say with a fusing factor of 1.3/4.

    But if it was previously like this with no issue its unlikely to cause tripping now.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,052 ✭✭✭Tuco88


    What are the kW of the Washing machine and Dryer and oven.

    Work out the potential full load current on the circuit.

    Is it going to be likely you'll have the oven on, Dryer on and Wash going?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,874 ✭✭✭garo


    Just dug through the instruction manuals. The max loads are 2200, 2600 and 2800 for a total of 7600 or theoretical 33A on the 20A MCB. It’s an MCB not a fuse so I assume it just trips?

    They are very unlikely to be on at the same time. In the last year it only happened once - I have a load monitor. And even then the washing machine only uses full power for a small period of time. Since we got solar PV we stagger major power consuming appliances and it has become a habit.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 651 ✭✭✭440Hertz


    Hager seems to be the gold standard in Ireland for those boards. I wouldn't go near using cheap equipment for a device that is absolutely fundamental to home safety from the point of view of fire risk mitigation and electric shock protection.

    Your electrician should buy it, but there's absolutely no reason why you shouldn't have a preferred brand.

    Working on the distribution board is also registered electrical contractor only territory.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,052 ✭✭✭Tuco88


    If memory is right for the tripping curve its, 1.13 to 1.45 for mcbs. It should most definitely be operating at around 29Amps and beyond I would expect.

    So you are right on the threshold. At least you know as the home owner, so you can work around it.

    The Electrican obviously didn't wire the place to his liking and had to make best with cards he was given. We have all crossed that bridge.

    The ideal world would be separate circuits.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 225 ✭✭JimToken


    Tuco88 wrote: »
    I would definitely agree to have the oven on an RCD, good move there.

    Its more of an OCD thing mixing manufacturers equipment. You just have to be aware of the terminals might not line up correctly for busbar, They might fit but usually distorts the busbar. Not a problem if panel flex is used.

    DBs are type tested? and have an amp rating, for that reason I think you're not supposed to mix them


  • Posts: 7,499 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    I installed a recessed Hager board in my own place.
    Only thing about this model is the neutral bars/earth bar are the big blocky type and I prefer the traditional bars.

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0029DEEOO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Chasing the ****er in was a chore but the finish was worth it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,567 ✭✭✭Risteard81


    Tuco88 wrote: »
    If memory is right for the tripping curve its, 1.13 to 1.45 for mcbs. It should most definitely be operating at around 29Amps and beyond I would expect.

    So you are right on the threshold. At least you know as the home owner, so you can work around it.

    The Electrican obviously didn't wire the place to his liking and had to make best with cards he was given. We have all crossed that bridge.

    The ideal world would be separate circuits.
    Essentially what this means is that an MCB must not operate at 1.13 times its nominal rating, but must operate within the conventional time (1 hour) at 1.45 times its nominal rating.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,567 ✭✭✭Risteard81


    JimToken wrote: »
    DBs are type tested? and have an amp rating, for that reason I think you're not supposed to mix them
    This is true in the north and Britain, but it should be remembered that there is a derogation under Annex Zb of BS EN 61439-3 there for a conditional rating of 16kA despite the breaking capacity of the protective devices. Therefore type testing becomes crucial otherwise the installer legally takes on the duties of the manufacturer of the assembly. So it's less of an issue elsewhere.

    I would still advise sticking to the manufacturer's parts even though there is no derogation under I.S. EN 61439-3.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,354 ✭✭✭Lenar3556


    JimToken wrote: »
    DBs are type tested? and have an amp rating, for that reason I think you're not supposed to mix them

    They are, and mixing components should be avoided as it it unlikely Hagar type tested another manufacturers components. There could be warranty, and liability issues in the event of a failure.

    Hager would be a decent product for domestic. Somebody mentioned Schneider - This, ABB Eaton and Siemens would likely be higher end products particularly when you get into the larger stuff.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,354 ✭✭✭Lenar3556


    Risteard81 wrote: »
    This is true in the north and Britain, but it should be remembered that there is a derogation under Annex Zb of BS EN 61439-3 there for a conditional rating of 16kA despite the breaking capacity of the protective devices. Therefore type testing becomes crucial otherwise the installer legally takes on the duties of the manufacturer of the assembly. So it's less of an issue elsewhere.

    I would still advise sticking to the manufacturer's parts even though there is no derogation under I.S. EN 61439-3.

    I am not familiar with the standard you refer, but type testing is as big an issue in Ireland as it is elsewhere.

    There was a case of a fire in the south of the country a number of years ago which started in a newly installed lighting board. The cause of ignition was identified to have been caused by heat generated by a significant quantity of contactors which were installed in the board. There were some other contributory factors.

    The contactors were of a major manufacturer, but they denied responsibility purely on the basis that they were installed in an assembly which had not been tested for performance in terms of heat dissipation, ventilation etc. and had it been in one of their own assemblies there would have been no fire.

    There was no dispute that the contactor coils were running hot, and the buildings insurer initiated a claim for damages against the manufacturers distributor in the circuit court - but they later withdrew it without settlement and the installers insurer entered into an arrangement with the buildings insurer to cover 80% of the claim.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,052 ✭✭✭Tuco88


    Risteard81 wrote: »
    Essentially what this means is that an MCB must not operate at 1.13 times its nominal rating, but must operate within the conventional time (1 hour) at 1.45 times its nominal rating.

    Correct thats why I multiplied by the 1.45 and 1hr for less than 63Amps.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 225 ✭✭JimToken


    I would pick Hager too as the best brand over a long period of time


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,052 ✭✭✭Tuco88


    JimToken wrote: »
    DBs are type tested? and have an amp rating, for that reason I think you're not supposed to mix them

    Thats not fully true on components, I used to panel build for a few years. Various manufacturers many not make a particular component. Take ABB use weidmuller terminals in panels for motors (Con Adapters) you may see a different brand main switch or solid state relays from phenoix contact with ABB epuipmemt. Or when companies merge Merlin Gerin/Schnider.

    But I agree, I wouldnt be for mixing equipment keep like for like as much as possible.

    Id say poor workmanship is more the factor and lack of testing than mixing branded equipment. Ie the busbar issue.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,354 ✭✭✭Lenar3556


    Tuco88 wrote: »
    Thats not fully true on components, I used to panel build for a few years. Various manufacturers many not make a particular component. Take ABB use weidmuller terminals in panels for motors (Con Adapters) you may see a different brand main switch or solid state relays from phenoix contact with ABB epuipmemt. Or when companies merge Merlin Gerin/Schnider.

    But I agree, I wouldnt be for mixing equipment keep like for like as much as possible.

    Id say poor workmanship is more the factor and lack of testing than mixing branded equipment. Ie the busbar issue.

    You might find that much of that has been type tested and certified by the panel manufacturer. For example Cubic and Elsteel have tested and certified their products with much of the ABB components.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 225 ✭✭JimToken


    Tuco88 wrote: »
    Thats not fully true on components, I used to panel build for a few years. Various manufacturers many not make a particular component. Take ABB use weidmuller terminals in panels for motors (Con Adapters) you may see a different brand main switch or solid state relays from phenoix contact with ABB epuipmemt. Or when companies merge Merlin Gerin/Schnider.

    But I agree, I wouldnt be for mixing equipment keep like for like as much as possible.

    Id say poor workmanship is more the factor and lack of testing than mixing branded equipment. Ie the busbar issue.

    Each new arrangement would have to be tested and certified , would it not

    Each component in a board has its own set of ratings and capacities


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,052 ✭✭✭Tuco88


    JimToken wrote: »
    Each new arrangement would have to be tested and certified , would it not

    Each component in a board has its own set of ratings and capacities

    Yes it does. Each panel or boad would be fully tested before a FAT. It was usually large multinational companies would actully spec spefic brands to use for such purpose for there own site standards.

    I'm just saying there is nothing wrong with mixing equipment within a panel. Once tested etc...


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 225 ✭✭JimToken


    Tuco88 wrote: »
    Yes it does. Each panel or boad would be fully tested before a FAT. It was usually large multinational companies would actully spec spefic brands to use for such purpose for there own site standards.

    I'm just saying there is nothing wrong with mixing equipment within a panel. Once tested etc...

    That's where our wires are crossed

    I'm saying that the installer is not allowed to mix them


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