the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

grogi wrote: »

BBright is not a threaded bottom braket, it is pressed in. Wheelsmfg make them with additional threading of two halfes inside of the tubes, to elliminate squiqs and any additional sound effects.

Anyway, it shouldn't be like that. I guess what happened is the fantastic tolerances of Cervello frames prevented the workshop to rotate the halves further and bring them closer (that's why Hambini makes them in one piece).

If there is no play, I wouldn't worry about it too much tough. You might just have a bit wider stance or slightly off chainline if it is on drive side.

As it turns out, when I took the crank off again for new photos, I tried just tightening it up by hand. To my astonishment, I was able to turn the DS cup easily, and to screw it right flush to the frame. Why I didn't think of this before asking here, I don't know! The workshop responsible for fitting the BB should perhaps have added a little loctite to stop it coming loose, or else could have tightened it more. I don't have BB wrenches, but when next I'm in a bike shop, I'll get them to do this...and I'll keep a close eye in the interim.

crosstownk wrote: »

While cleaning one of the bikes today, I noticed that there is a small bit of play in the freehub i.e. if I hold the cassette, I can rock it up and down by a small amount - less than 1mm.

Out on a spin on this bike today and the shift on the larger sprockets of the cassette weren't as crisp as I'd expect. At one point I looked down and the cassette was visibly 'wobbling'. I changed up and pedalled backward and that stopped the wobble.

I'll have to remove the cassette and check further. Pain in the ass.

Any pointers...?

cletus wrote: »

Have you checked of the lockring is loose?

It's tight. The cassette feels like it's solid as unit - no play or movement between sprockets that I'd expect from a loose lock ring. I'm thinking that it's the free hub that needs adjusting/tightening.

Maybe I should remove the cassette and grab the free hub body and check for play to be sure.

A job for tomorrow as I'm on Guinness number three now. Not a good idea to be messing with the bike right now!

Tony04 wrote: »

Is there lateral wheel play? Is your derailleur hanger bent?

No and no.

EDIT: My other bike has similar movement at the cassette. Maybe it’s normal.

crosstownk wrote: »

No and no.

EDIT: My other bike has similar movement at the cassette. Maybe it’s normal.

Acctually quick google and its seems to be normal on other bike forums.

cletus wrote: »

So it looks like an indexing issue possibly? Could it be caused by wear on the cable?

I think you’re right. The cable had slipped at the cinch bolt at the RD and I adjusted and reindexed yesterday.

I’d say I need to fine tune it.

Thanks for the assistance and the Googling that I should have done myself!!

I've a small garden shed and will probably have the bike raised on a bracket for the winter when not in use. I'll have to remove the wheels as it won't fit otherwise.
I was wondering if I should get a dummy hub to fit when the wheels are off it?
If I should, is it worth spending the €20+ on the park tools one or will a €5 eBay one do?
Thanks.

hi



in the process of replacing headset bearings ,Endurace 2013/14 model
its at Acros ai70 type


got bearings from https://www.airevelobearings.com/product-category/canyon-headset-bearings-spares/


its the original headset; have disconnected brake cable , removed all upper parts; push-in top cap (not a real top cap:o) stem /handle bars, spacers, the small T6 torx screw, the two plastic bits that fit together, compression ring


but the fork wont drop!! i can imagine theres 6 yrs of gunk holding it there


tried tapping the steerer tube gently with rubber mallet ... no luck


do i need to remove the top bearing for the fork to drop ??


or might the btm bearing be so fcuked its jammed ??


cheers

cletus wrote: »

You might need to be less gentle...

yes maybe... but its a carbon steerer :eek: so i want to be as gentle as possible



maybe i should squirt some degreaser down the head tube and up from the btm part as well... ??

Try something like wd40 gt 85 or weldtite tf2 spray over degreaser.
Have you taken all the headset bits out like spacers etc.

A photo might help

Any bike specific grease is designed for use with carbon of course you should grease it if you want to make it easier to take off the next time you replace it. Grease all the metal parts

devonp wrote: »

took a bit of work to get the bottom bearing out...


anyway i presume the chamfered inner race of the btm bearing should face down towards the wheel ? it slides onto the fork fine and rotates nicely



also i have 2 types of grease...
1. weldtite lithium grease whitish
2. RSP bearing buster grease more browny cremey colour


any preferences ?

Yes, chamfered side down on the bottom race, and chamfered side up on the top race.

Cartridge bearings like these are lubed inside already, so grease is only required to prevent corrosion (in the frame's bearing seat/on the outside of the cartridge bearing) from water ingress. In cases like this, it doesn't really matter which type of grease you use.

Is the frame's seat clean? Even a bit of grit will jam everything up.

Likewise a small burr or ding will stop the bearing going in smoothly (but can be filed away carefully, if required)

Is the old bearing exactly the same diameter? Some headset bearings differ in size by only 0.1mm (Why, frame manufacturers, why?!) and even this small a difference is effectively the wrong size. Hold the outside of the old and new bearings between your fingers and see if they feel identical or a tiny bit different.

Pic of the lower seat of the frame required...