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Disable bathroom extractor fan?

  • 20-04-2020 3:25pm
    #1
    Neil_Sedaka
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,102 ✭✭✭


    Hi all,

    the extractor fan in the main bathroom is on it's way out. I reckon it's the bearings or motor (horrible screeching noise from it)

    As we don't really use the main bathroom for baths or showers (have a pumped shower in en suite) I'm thinking of disconnecting it until I get it replaced.

    It comes on with the bathroom light and is timed to stay on for a while after the light is switched off.

    Rather than tackling the wiring at the light switch, I'm thinking maybe it would be easier and safer to pull the main fuse in the hall then drop the fan and disconnect or cut the power supply to it, then tape up any exposed wire.

    Thoughts or advice much appreciated.

    Thanks.


Comments

  • #2
    2011
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,627 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    There should be an isolator local to the fan. Switch it off, simples :)


  • #3
    Neil_Sedaka
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,102 ✭✭✭Neil_Sedaka


    2011 wrote: »
    There should be an isolator local to the fan. Switch it off, simples :)

    That would be great. Any idea where it might be located and what it looks like?

    Thanks.


  • #4
    2011
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,627 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    Neil_Sedaka wrote: »
    That would be great. Any idea where it might be located and what it looks like?

    Thanks.

    It looks kind of like a light switch and is generally located close to the fan.


  • #5
    Neil_Sedaka
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,102 ✭✭✭Neil_Sedaka


    Not seeing anything obvious, unless it's tucked up in the ceiling :confused:


  • #6
    Neil_Sedaka
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,102 ✭✭✭Neil_Sedaka


    Hi again,

    I'm unable to locate the isolator (if there's one fitted at all!!)
    It's a Manrose extractor fan, located in the ceiling.

    The rumble is really starting to get on my nerves now and I'm also worried that it could become a fire hazard if it overheats.

    Any advice regarding original question please?

    Thanks all.


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  • #7
    adrian92
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 566 ✭✭✭adrian92


    I advise not to switch it on.

    You said id runs for a while after it is switched off

    This means that there are two separate power supplies to this fan.

    If you go at it I advise you switch off the entire power at your distribution board before carrying out the action you proposed, A job to be done with daylight


  • #8
    Flickerfusion
    Closed Accounts Posts: 242 ✭✭Flickerfusion


    2011 wrote: »
    There should be an isolator local to the fan. Switch it off, simples :)

    In a modern installation. Plenty of fan wiring from the 1990s, 80s, 70s that would still be in use, even if the fan had been replaced many times since.

    Most older installations would only have a light switch controlled live (and often a permanent live that can only be isolated by cutting the power at the MCB/fuse if they've an overrun timer) without any local isolation.

    Don't work on this without isolating the power for the whole installation by flipping the MCB / removing the fuse.

    Also note that in older bathroom wiring (and not very long ago i.e. probably most fans) would not be RCD protected - i.e. you're not protected against dangerous / potentially fatal shocks.


  • #9
    2011
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,627 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    Flickerfusion wrote: »
    In a modern installation. Plenty of fan wiring from the 1990s, 80s, 70s that would still be in use, even if the fan had been replaced many times since.

    True, but there is no suggestion of the age of the installation or the lack of an isolation switch in the OP :)
    Don't work on this without isolating the power for the whole installation by flipping the MCB / removing the fuse.

    +1, better still get an electrician to look at this.
    Also note that in older bathroom wiring (and not very long ago i.e. probably most fans) would not be RCD protected - i.e. you're not protected against dangerous / potentially fatal shocks.

    RCDs are great devices but only provide supplementary protection. They should never be relied on to protect against "dangerous / potentially fatal shocks".


  • #10
    Flickerfusion
    Closed Accounts Posts: 242 ✭✭Flickerfusion


    Yeah but RCDs were added to lighting circuits in regulations largely to mitigate a risk of shock because of people coming into contact with live conductors, mostly while doing DIY work and also because of the exposed contacts in light fittings.

    It always struck me as an unusual incongruity in all wiring regulations that we never really redesigned bulb common holders and allowed bare contacts that are fully finger touchable. While many of them are on the ceiling, they're also in table lamps and so on.

    If you look in Europe for example, huge attention has been payed to making plug/socket systems progressively safer and safer. CEE 7 (Schuko/French system) and BS1363 the rectangular pin UK system that we use here all have finger protection with sheathes on pins or recessed sockets, while things like safety shutters are mandatory in the BS and French designs and some countries mandate them for Schuko too. However, we all still allowed two bare sprung pins or a live screw Edison screw bottle top type device to persist.

    It's not like a new design couldn't have been dreamt up.

    But yeah, while you can't 100% rely on any device, RCDs have most definitely played an extremely important role in fatal shock protection.


  • #11
    Retro.
    Closed Accounts Posts: 89 ✭✭Retro.


    Anything can happen in the home

    Better to have the RCD protection for all final circuits


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  • #12
    2011
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,627 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    Flickerfusion wrote: »
    Yeah but RCDs were added to lighting circuits in regulations largely to mitigate a risk of shock because of people coming into contact with live conductors, mostly while doing DIY work and also because of the exposed contacts in light fittings.

    Yes, you are correct of course. I was just making the point that no device can definitely protect against shock / electrocution. It may seem that I am being pedantic saying this but it is surprising how many will assume this is the case.
    But yeah, while you can't 100% rely on any device, RCDs have most definitely played an extremely important role in fatal shock protection.

    +1


  • #13
    2011
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,627 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    Retro. wrote: »
    Anything can happen in the home

    Better to have the RCD protection for all final circuits

    Not everyone shares that view, otherwise it would be a regulation.
    Personally I believe that it would be far more beneficial to enforce the rules we have than make up new ones.

    For every person that believes that every final circuit should be on an RCD the is someone that believes it should be taken further and every circuit should have AFDD fitted too :)


  • #14
    Neil_Sedaka
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,102 ✭✭✭Neil_Sedaka


    2011 wrote: »
    True, but there is no suggestion of the age of the installation or the lack of an isolation switch in the OP :)

    We bought the house in 2005.
    As far as I know they were built early to mid 90's


  • #15
    Neil_Sedaka
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,102 ✭✭✭Neil_Sedaka


    Regarding not switching it on, this isn't really possible as after dark as we need lighting in the bathroom.


  • #16
    Retro.
    Closed Accounts Posts: 89 ✭✭Retro.


    Neil_Sedaka wrote: »
    Regarding not switching it on, this isn't really possible as after dark as we need lighting in the bathroom.

    There should be an isolator to turn the fan off


  • #17
    Neil_Sedaka
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,102 ✭✭✭Neil_Sedaka


    Retro. wrote: »
    There should be an isolator to turn the fan off

    I'm sure there should be, but I'm not finding anything resembling an isolator switch.

    All I seem to have to work with is the fan itself and the light / fan switch on the wall outside the bathroom :confused:


  • #18
    Neil_Sedaka
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,102 ✭✭✭Neil_Sedaka


    If the leccy in these house builds is anything like the plumbing, I reckon the builders cut as many corners as possible :mad:

    It's an estate with about 80 houses if that matters.


  • #19
    adrian92
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 566 ✭✭✭adrian92


    To OP
    I think your idea is good , as an interim step.

    Just fully isolate power first.

    You will then have the light working.

    Separately , later deal with the fan issues


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