the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

magicbastarder · 14-01-2020 01:55PM

ah, that's much more black than orange. and the orange parts won't get as much contact with your gloves anyway.
mine are just solid orange:

CramCycle · 14-01-2020 02:04PM

here is the Fizik one 13020675de91424d66b70.63723274.jpg

I just prefer one colour tape, that is just me.

cletus · 14-01-2020 03:04PM

This is the bike its going on

Maybe all orange...

secman · 14-01-2020 08:51PM

Got a blowout on Sunday's spin, a fair oul cut smack middle of the back tyre, managed rest of the spin with a boot in it, checking it tonight and there's a big enough kink in the tyre. Replacing it with Gp5000, but front wheel has Go4000 with plenty of life in it, will the mix be okay ?

CramCycle · 14-01-2020 08:53PM

secman wrote: »

Got a blowout on Sunday's spin, a fair oul cut smack middle of the back tyre, managed rest of the spin with a boot in it, checking it tonight and there's a big enough kink in the tyre. Replacing it with Gp5000, but front wheel has Go4000 with plenty of life in it, will the mix be okay ?

Absolutely, the GP4000 will probably outlast the 5000 in my experience

magicbastarder · 16-01-2020 01:48PM

i noticed a tiny bit of play in my front wheel the other day (aksium disc); anyone know any decent videos on how to tighten it up, or would have tips?
it's been many years since i did this, and that would have been on cheapo cup and cone arrangements.

rayman1 · 16-01-2020 05:38PM

Anyone here use the self adhesive tube patches.
I got a puncture yesterday and used one rather than changing the tube.
It got me home no bother and is still holding the pressure.
Just wondering is it a permanent fix? Any advice appreciated.

TychoCaine · 16-01-2020 06:10PM

rayman1 wrote: »

Anyone here use the self adhesive tube patches.
I got a puncture yesterday and used one rather than changing the tube.
It got me home no bother and is still holding the pressure.
Just wondering is it a permanent fix? Any advice appreciated.

I've used them in the past and they held long term. I've had good experience with Skabs, Stans and Park Tool ones.

crosstownk · 18-01-2020 05:13PM

I’ve noticed some paint flaking and bubbling at the top of the forks on my Giant Defy 4 (2014). What should I do here? Paint over it? Ignore it as it’s aluminium and shouldn’t really corrode? Get a second hand fork?

The original specs say that the forks are carbon and as I can see aluminium, I assume that it’s just the blades that are carbon.

There’s over 27,000km on this bike so I don’t want to spend a lot of money on it. It already could do with a new set of wheels and probably a new headset too.

Cee-Jay-Cee · 18-01-2020 05:21PM

rayman1 wrote: »

Anyone here use the self adhesive tube patches.
I got a puncture yesterday and used one rather than changing the tube.
It got me home no bother and is still holding the pressure.
Just wondering is it a permanent fix? Any advice appreciated.

I have one on a latex tube for over two years now and it’s still holding tight. I consider them permanent.

I use the park tools patches from CRC.

CramCycle · 18-01-2020 05:40PM

crosstownk wrote: »

I’ve noticed some paint flaking and bubbling at the top of the forks on my Giant Defy 4 (2014). What should I do here? Paint over it? Ignore it as it’s aluminium and shouldn’t really corrode? Get a second hand fork?

Personally I'd sand it and cover in paint over it with aluminium primer where it has bubbled but this probably isn't necessary, if alu "rusts" it tends to form a slightly larger but tougher layer on top if my memory serves me right. I personally wouldn't be concerned from a safety side of things unless there are other issues

crosstownk · 18-01-2020 06:09PM

CramCycle wrote: »

Personally I'd sand it and cover in paint over it with aluminium primer where it has bubbled but this probably isn't necessary, if alu "rusts" it tends to form a slightly larger but tougher layer on top if my memory serves me right. I personally wouldn't be concerned from a safety side of things unless there are other issues

Thanks for the reply.

I’ll leave it for now so. It’s my winter bike and I’ll replace the headset in the summer and that’d be the ideal time to repaint the fork.

CormacH94 · 25-01-2020 02:43PM

Fitted new brake pads to the commuter this morning, can't get enough tension on the brake levers - Could this be due to the fact the brake cable was fitted to slightly worn brake pads back in October and there isn't enough cable or am I doing something really stupid?

cletus · 25-01-2020 02:55PM

CormacH94 wrote: »

Fitted new brake pads to the commuter this morning, can't get enough tension on the brake levers - Could this be due to the fact the brake cable was fitted to slightly worn brake pads back in October and there isn't enough cable or am I doing something really stupid?

When you say you can't get enough tension, do you mean that the brakes aren't applying even when the levered are fully applied?

CormacH94 · 25-01-2020 03:06PM

cletus wrote: »

When you say you can't get enough tension, do you mean that the brakes aren't applying even when the levered are fully applied?

The brakes are making contact when the lever is fully applied (i.e, they are nearly touching the handlebars) as opposed to fully contacting when the lever is barely squeezed

cletus · 25-01-2020 03:16PM

CormacH94 wrote: »

The brakes are making contact when the lever is fully applied (i.e, they are nearly touching the handlebars) as opposed to fully contacting when the lever is barely squeezed

Have you slackened off the retaining screw for the cable at the caliper, pulled the cable through and then tightened up the retaining screw?

CormacH94 · 25-01-2020 03:20PM

cletus wrote: »

Have you slackened off the retaining screw for the cable at the caliper, pulled the cable through and then tightened up the retaining screw?

Yes

cletus · 25-01-2020 03:23PM

Maybe a couple of pictures might help assess the situation

CormacH94 · 25-01-2020 04:04PM

Sorted; Trying to do a rush job and being stupid about it

Just had to adjust the toe so I could get more clearance between pad and rim, allowed me to tighten the cable further

Type 17 · 25-01-2020 07:17PM

CormacH94 wrote: »

The brakes are making contact when the lever is fully applied (i.e, they are nearly touching the handlebars) as opposed to fully contacting when the lever is barely squeezed

Tighten the cable tension - loosen the cable clamp, squeeze the pads onto the rim with one hand, check the cable is fairly tight and re-tighten the cable clamp with the other hand. If the lever feels right, you're done, if not, go again pulling the cable in some more or releasing it a bit (2-4mm of cable travel is the range you're looking at here)

CormacH94 · 28-01-2020 05:21PM

Another one; Neglected cleaning/wiping the commuter chain after wet days in December, had a go at removing the rust with the usual - tinfoil, coca cola and white vinegar but no joy.

It still runs fine but feels quite stiff and dry even after degreasing and relubing.

Would I be better off just buying a new chain?

Cee-Jay-Cee · 28-01-2020 07:31PM

CormacH94 wrote: »

Another one; Neglected cleaning/wiping the commuter chain after wet days in December, had a go at removing the rust with the usual - tinfoil, coca cola and white vinegar but no joy.

It still runs fine but feels quite stiff and dry even after degreasing and relubing.

Would I be better off just buying a new chain?

For the price of a chain, yeah change it.

secman · 29-01-2020 12:21AM

Are sram chains compatible with shimano drivechains ?

magicbastarder · 29-01-2020 12:27AM

yes. check out the compatibility chart.

https://cyclingtips.com/2017/12/mixing-road-groupsets-what-works-together-and-what-doesnt-2/

LollipopJimmy · 29-01-2020 12:48AM

secman wrote: »

Are sram chains compatible with shimano drivechains ?

And slightly better imo.

Although KMC have proved their worth with me plus a mate of mine who can throw down some serious power swears by them

dahat · 29-01-2020 08:40AM

secman wrote: »

Are sram chains compatible with shimano drivechains ?

Yes, I've switched from Shimano last 12 months and have found the sram chains far better. They are taking heavy workload really well in comparison.

CramCycle · 29-01-2020 02:36PM

I've always found the SRAM better than Shimano in regards durability, not sure if that still holds up but it certainly was the case many moons ago.

Type 17 · 29-01-2020 02:43PM

CramCycle wrote: »

I've always found the SRAM better than Shimano in regards durability, not sure if that still holds up but it certainly was the case many moons ago.

Yes, I still find SRAM to be more durable and Shimano. Perhaps other brands are even more durable, but SRAM is certainly a lot better than Shimano.

secman · 29-01-2020 05:14PM

SRAM PC1130 11 Speed Chain, anyone have any experience with these, whats the Shimano equivalent ?
Or any suggestions as to which sram chain is best for

1. Summer bikes with ultegra 11 speed
2. Winter bikes both ultegra, a 10 speed and an 11 speed.

Thanks

Deano12345 · 29-01-2020 08:13PM

secman wrote: »

SRAM PC1130 11 Speed Chain, anyone have any experience with these, whats the Shimano equivalent ?
Or any suggestions as to which sram chain is best for

1. Summer bikes with ultegra 11 speed
2. Winter bikes both ultegra, a 10 speed and an 11 speed.

Thanks

I've ran one for probably the last 6 months or so. I find it durable like others have said. I was running a Dura Ace chain (HG-901?) before and found that wore more quickly. I think the SRAM chain is heavier but its not something I can say I've noticed.

Ran it on an R8000 chainset during the summer but its on Spider-Rings at the moment, working perfectly well! . Can't speak for their 10 speed chains

the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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